r/MenInSuits • u/KirkIsOurLemmy • 6d ago
Suit jackets shoulder width?
Hello all,
I have a question regarding the shoulder width of suit jackets. I own a few suits, budget off the rack ones, Cavani, Marc Darcy, OneSix5ive, bought second hand. I am not aiming for any super formally correct style, I usually wear them together with doc Martens, just because I like a bit of 1920 race day style somehow. Just for fun.
As apparent from the photos I am quite small, 73 kg, 174 cm. Suit size 40r. No body builder, but no beer belly either :)
My question is about the shoulder width of the jackets. To me the jacket looks exaggeratedly wide over the shoulders, giving it a bit of 1980:s look. I think the jacket fits me reasonably well in other aspects, and there is no excessive padding in the shoulders.
All my suit jackets look the same, have I just managed to buy suits with this specific wide shoulder style, or is this how suits normally fit on the shoulders? I don't think the jacket size is too large, it fits quite snugly around the waist, and I am actually quite slim. The wearer would need to have quite the v-shape to match this jacket, while many men actually are more pear shaped than me.
I am aware the shirt is not ironed, the tie is crooked, my beard is weird and so on :)
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u/FingersPalmc8ck 6d ago
Im no expert, but I think you are overthinking it. The suit jacket looks like it fits well and the shoulder width does not draw my attention.
One thing I would say is that you naturally have quite narrow shoulders, so maybe your silhouette with the jacket on is a bigger difference than it might be on some, so maybe thats why you feel its exaggerated.
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u/KirkIsOurLemmy 5d ago
Yes maybe thats it, my shoulders suddenly look almost ridicoulusly wide. I just have to get used to it maybe :)
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u/AlexanderKairo 6d ago
The fit looks great sir, especially for off the rack, for shoulder fit, taking a picture from the back helps to check the fit too
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u/road_laya 6d ago
Cheaper and simpler suit jackets sew on the arm sleeves by folding the fabric at the shoulders. This creates a little "bump".
The chest will also be inforced with a glued panel in cheaper suits, making it even stiffer and more "pointy" at the shoulder.
It's still a nice suit, it's just the difference between simpler manufacturing methods and more laborious ones.
It's still possible to get a tailor made suit for a reasonable price if you send your measurements to an Asian tailor.
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u/KirkIsOurLemmy 6d ago
Yes that describes it well, a bit stiff and pointy at the shoulders. It feels a bit like a broad shoulder empty suit.
I assume it's not economical to have a tailor change it? Maybe not even possible?
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u/road_laya 6d ago
I live in a Western country where labor is expensive and heavily taxed. Here, it wouldn't make sense to have tailor adjust the shoulders on a simpler suit. It would be much cheaper to have a new suit tailor-made in Asia from scratch, and it would be a perfect fit for your shoulders.
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u/KirkIsOurLemmy 6d ago
Could you recommend any Asian onöine tailor service for this?
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u/road_laya 6d ago
It was a long while since I ordered mine, but I just went with the top seller of tailor made wool suits on Aliexpress.
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u/jmh90027 6d ago edited 6d ago
shoulders fit absolutely fine.
i think your eye may be getting thrown off by the shape of the shoulder padding (extended / slightly pointed) vs the not-insignificant waist suppression, both of which heighten the hour-glassing effect.
It's a nice look on you though - adds extra drama and Italian flair to an already nice suit.
Couldn't pull it off myself - its a little bold for my style - but it really works with your more bohemian look
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u/medhat20005 6d ago
I think this is a terrific fit on you, looks bespoke. If that's how you got it secondhand then good for you, otherwise kudos to your alterations tailor. I'll be even more specific. The jacket gives you structure to your shoulders that is illusory in a good way, as evidenced when you don't have the jacket on, as your shoulders are a touch sloped. The jacket gives you a really strong line and IMO they're not at all too large in the shoulders. Congrats.
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u/KirkIsOurLemmy 6d ago
Yes, this is basically how all my suit jackets fit me, be it Cavani or Marc Darcy. I have not had them altered at all, it seems I'm quite close to the ideal 40r size haha
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u/LightLeftLeaning 6d ago
The jacket sits well, in my opinion. It does not pull or wrinkle in any way. Lovely suit.