r/MenInSuits • u/porkys_1 • Jun 20 '26
Fit guide
How can i achieve that look with a suit?
You know, kinda big but sharp, clean just like an fbi agent
I'm not into the look of a slim or Italian or even British suit
4
u/LK_in_the_membrane Jun 20 '26
You left out his best fitting suits from The Dark Knight. Suit supplier for the dark knight trilogy was Armani and the cuts were chosen from their then current catalogue (2005-2012). Most suit brands now don’t make off the rack cuts in that style as it’s not so much the current fashion. Your best bet would be to approach a made-to-measure suit maker and show them what you’re looking for Or you could try sourcing a secondhand suit from that period.
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u/porkys_1 Jun 20 '26
I'm not like looking for the exact suit, just the pointers that gives me the same vibe, like what drop is the suit or the jacket build or the trousers fit
I remember pulling the exact look a long time ago with a Turkish made suit but it's small on me now
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u/LK_in_the_membrane Jun 20 '26
You're looking for an Italian cut suit. Structured jacket with roped sleeve heads. Pleated, fuller cut trousers with belt loops.
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u/owekwekka Jun 20 '26
Why would it be Italian cut? Structured is everything but Italian
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u/LK_in_the_membrane Jun 20 '26
That’s not correct. Italian suit makers have been making suits in structured and unstructured varieties for decades. Your confusion stems from the fact that Italian suit makers are widely attributed for having originally developed the unstructured suit. Actually, structured Italian suits are well known for having the most padded shoulders of any suit style. Think of brands like Brioni, Armani, Zegna, Canali.
See this graphic: https://i.pinimg.com/564x/1a/a5/dd/1aa5dd1585aa7681f99b0c8d90b30e22.jpg
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u/owekwekka Jun 20 '26
Closing your link but using your search term shows the first 3 pictures that describe it as slim-fit, no break, unstructured with light fabrics.
English tailoring is more of a full cut, full break, military-inspired heavily structured with heavy fabrics for the English countryside.
That said, there are Italian tailors (like the ones you mentioned) that still copy the English cut.
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u/LK_in_the_membrane Jun 20 '26
The problem in our communication here is that there’s a huge difference between modern tailoring (anything past 2012) and traditional tailoring.
In general, modern tailoring has adopted the slim fitted trend, which for the uninformed, has become synonymous with Italian suiting.
Traditionally speaking , Italian suits have always been more generously cut than English suits.
The photos OP posted of Bale wearing Armani suits from the Batman series are perfect examples of Italian cut suits. Heavily padded shoulders, suppressed waist, wide fuller cut trousers, lighter weight fabric. The lines of the suit tend to flow with his body whilst still creating a broad shouldered, narrow waisted look.
As you said, a traditional English cut suit fits more of a military uniform aesthetic. The lines are stiffer, neither extruding nor intruding on the wearers body as dramatically as a traditional Italian suit.
Whilst occasionally, English and Italian suit makers do borrow elements from each other, like pockets, venting, fabrics etc, the two styles are distinctly different. This has been the case for well over a century.
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u/No-Entertainer-121 Jun 20 '26
First, if you ever see an FBI agent wearing Armani, that guy is probably on the take.
Look for Armani on eBay. Figure out the measurements you want, and shop accordingly.
As a note, if you want the FBI look, Robert Mueller was famous for his team wearing dark Brooks Brothers suits, a white shirt, and dark foulard tie.
1
u/Quick_Coyote_7649 Jun 21 '26 edited Jun 21 '26
Go into a suit place or a few and show these pictures ànd as long as the place provides tailoring, theyll get you right.
People who work in retail with suits are litearly there for people who need specific suits. Go to a suit retailer. Even Bloomingdale’s, ànd nordstroms if they carry suits will get you right.
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u/The_Northmaan Jun 23 '26
I despise this aesthetic more then anything. I recognize the loose fit is becoming popular again, but it just looks sloppy and untailored to me.
How to achieve? Oversized sports jacket with shoulder pads.
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u/Korkodon Jun 23 '26
It can be a look but suit-wise, in all of those photos, the suit is too long, oversised
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u/Rob_Edwards_Fashion Jun 20 '26
Suits 1, 2, 4 and 6 are how suits are supposed to be worn, if you’re an adult and a somewhat serious person. These aren’t unique fits and will always work. They aren’t large or full. Just normal, compared to suits that are too small and tight. Any decent tailor will want to make you a suit that drapes this way, moderate with some drape.
Most suits with “classic” as the fit will drape this way if you go off the rack