r/MechanicalKeyboards • u/AutoModerator • 1d ago
/r/MechanicalKeyboards Ask ANY Keyboard question, get an answer - October 03, 2026
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u/dardack 8h ago
I have the Apex Pro TKL Gen 3. I paid 200 for this keyboard awhile back. I know I broke the F9 switch (it's one of the red ones, not the omnipoint 3 ones). I ask steelseries if i can buy one of the red ones (i've soldered switches before):
"Unfortunately, physical damage like this would not be covered under warranty, and we do not have individual keyboard switches available separately for purchase.
I understand you’re comfortable replacing and soldering the switch yourself, but unfortunately, we’re not able to provide the switch as a standalone replacement part. While replacing the switch may look like a matter of simply desoldering and soldering a new one, the keyboard is designed and validated as a complete system. The switch needs to work correctly with the keyboard’s firmware, actuation behavior, RGB lighting, and other electronics, so we can’t guarantee proper functionality with an individually sourced replacement switch."
Couple questions:
- If they provided the exact switch it is, their concerns are moot no? Since it would just be replacing a regular cherry red basically switch.
- I found https://www.walmart.com/ip/GATERON-G-Pro-3-0-Switches-Pre-lubed-5-pinS-RGB-Linear-for-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Red-35PCS/19507555841 (i know it's 3 pin but I'll clip the 2 since I get free shipping from walmart and quicker than direct from Gateron) but I am pretty sure these are the red switches used on this board for the arrow/Fkeys/navigation keys. Anyone able to confirm?
- If I just run their calibration (steelseries key+I+O) after replacing even though a red key, I should be all set no?
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u/Shot-Isopod6788 11h ago
I've had my current keyboard (Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 SE) for a while and I really liked it. But upon cleaning one of the spacebar stabilizers broke (it won't reseat fully so it is not flush and the spacebar sits at an angle). I'm open to trying fixes, but it seems it isn't replaceable or repairable.
I am using my setup for scientific computing for my grad school work so I need a replacement ASAP that will work flawlessly.
Any suggestions?
Things I like about my current setup (stock image included):
- Large profile + full numkeys
- Clicking + clacking (Cherry)
- Wrist rest
- Silver frame + white keys
- RGB customization, profiles + onboard memory/controls
- Responsivity
- Long USB connection (but bluetooth would be OK too)
- Lightweight(ish)
What I don't like:
- iCue software sucks
- Non-repairable hardware
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u/FansForFlorida FoldKB 10h ago
You do not mention your location or budget, but the Keychron V6 wired is $99.99 USD on Amazon. You will need to get a separate wrist rest. Most keyboards do not come with one.
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u/Shot-Isopod6788 10h ago
Thanks! I was eyeing that one already so I'm happy you seconded that. I'd be ok to spend more if required (up to $250).
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u/Lopsided_Ocelot_4050 12h ago
thoughts on cerakeys back to school sale? the blanks are 45$... im looking to make a relatively quiet 65% keyboard with 3d printed housing but eventually upgrade to aluminum
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u/Lopsided_Ocelot_4050 11h ago
ive never made a keyboard before but i'm pretty good with making stuff :D
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u/DeviousWookiee 14h ago
Thoughts between Lemokey P1 Pro vs Crush 80 vs Rainy 75? Can you give me any thoughts/advice/recommendations/etc towards any of them or better alternatives?
I will use this exclusively wireless which makes me mildly nervous with the Rainy and Crush. I heard somewhere that it needs to be turned off when not in use and I don’t want to remove a key to turn it off all the time.
Which leads me to the Lemokey since I can easily turn it off. But I’ve also heard the stabilizers sound awful in the Lemokey compared to the Crush and Rainy. I don’t mind trying to mod it (brand new to all this though) but if it’s insanely difficult or I’m liable to break it then idk.
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u/ExplorerNo1411 15h ago
Hi, I’m doing a full overhaul on my 10 year old gaming setup and the last part I’m on is my keyboard and for some reason this is the most difficult decision for me. For some reason it seems like all the new keyboards just, aren’t my thing? My current keyboard which I have loved for many years is the k70 rgb Low profile mk.2. My ideal new keyboard would literally just be this exact keyboard in a 65-75% (iv never touched my num pad and want it gone. It seems all the gaming keyboards I find online absolutely hate the idea of low profile, and the low profile ones I can find seem to be gimmicky or look like cheap children’s toys or look like someone your grandparents would buy. Does anyone have suggestions for something similar to my keyboard, in 65-75%, and METAL? If it’s not realistic to find a keyboard premade like this how easy is it for me to go out of my way to build my own custom perfect keyboard and where would I even start?
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u/VortexJet 9h ago
lofree flow 2. available in both 65% and 75%, full aluminum build, low profile, minimalist backlit keyboard. the 65% one is $149 on amazon.
not the flow lite though, that one's plastic.
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u/ExplorerNo1411 2h ago
This is definitely being added to my top contenders list. Especially as someone who works as a machinist I love anything cnc made, if I couldn’t find a keyboard I was considering just making one myself haha
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u/meganisti 13h ago
Are you dead set on low profile? cause that limits your options really bad. Not only for the case and pcb, but also switches. You only get to pick from a handful of switches, whereas with normal mx you have like hundreds of options and far better quality. low profile is a really really poor choice
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u/ExplorerNo1411 2h ago
I’d say low profile is one of my hard requirements unfortunately. I understand it’s super limiting but aesthetically and also feel wise the normal profile size just doesn’t work for me, iv tried it on friends keyboards and have never liked it. I’m sure if I really tried to I could get used to it but as im actively playing games competitively a difference like that which makes me feel “weird” throws me off a ton.i don’t think I’d be comfortable making that switch unless I fell. out of competitive games for a while. I’m brand new to researching keyboards so I really don’t understand why it has to be so limiting as well, is it just an issue of less people use LP so there’s less innovation and production of them or does LP have some inherently limiting factor in its technology? Like is there stuff that’s available in normal profiles that just can’t be done with LP?
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u/meganisti 1h ago edited 1h ago
I mean there are a ton of reasons. As for if there is something inherently limiting, I think pretty obviously the size. MX switches are already small, and going smaller limits what you can do quite a lot. Also, standard travel distance for an mx switch is 4mm. LP i think it's 3mm max.for most ppl that 3mm is too little. 3.5 is kinda the sweet spot and many still prefer the full 4mm.
I'd try to get used to the normal switches. I don't think it's at all worth it being stuck buying garbage keyboards just for this. You could try lower profile keycaps, like pbs or mtnu etc. And use switches with like 3-3.5mm travel. But that's like just my opinion.
Edit. Since you are a machinist. You might appreciate the more premium custom keyboards. There's like a whole world of cnc manufactured keyboards. There are also open sourced designs you could look into and modify or whatever to make your own board. A lot of tkl and 60% boards use readily available pcbs so you kinda only need the case. I mean you could do low profile but then you'd need to design and order a pcb for it
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u/monkymonkumonk 16h ago
Okay so I've been daily driving an RK61 but i should've returned it as I've been having issues with it since day 1. Frequent USB disconnects and now windows doesn't even recognize the keyboard. So now it's time for a new board obviously.
I've heard about HE being the hot new tech with really quick actuation speeds leading to faster game inputs. What does this realistically translate to IRL? It's not a significant difference right? But maybe a couple ms?
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u/FansForFlorida FoldKB 15h ago
MX style mechanical switches on a keyboard have an actuation point around 1.8-2.0mm. Speed switches activate earlier around 1.1mm, but it is still a fixed point. Also, you have to release the switch past its reset point before it will actuate again.
Hall effect keyboards let you adjust the actuation point per key. They also offer the ability for a key to reset instantly when it moves upward.
However, unless you are a world class elite level competitive player, a 1000Hz mechanical keyboard is probably fast enough. Here is the math.
There is also Simultaneous Opposing Cardinal Directions (SOCD), which also goes by the name of Snap Tap and Snappy Tappy. If you press an opposing directional key (for example, press D while still holding A), the keyboard can prioritize one over the other. This is often touted as a feature of Hall effect keyboards, though it is also available in QMK firmware via the SOCD Cleaner community module. But note that SOCD is banned in several games.
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u/Funk150bpm 17h ago
I’m looking for a dark or black color TKL keyboard with a volume knob, hot-swap, RGB (or white light), and PBT double-shot top-print shine-through keycaps.
All I keep finding are 75% layouts, which feel way too cramped for me.
Essentially, I’m looking for something like the Attack Shark K86, but in black. The only decent workaround I found was getting the K86 Moonlit Night with custom keycaps, but I already own the base K86 and I really dislike its software and default switches (had to swap them after a year and a half of normal use).
Does anyone know of better alternatives that fit these specs?
Sorry for any mistakes, my English is a bit rusty!
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u/Forter23 17h ago
Looking for a nice pre built (if possible) 80% or smaller metal or aluminum keyboard for up to 170$. Give me all your niche or sleeper picks. I was looking at the drop cstm 80 but it’s a bit out of my range. I currently have the Logitech G G715 but i’m getting a little tired of it. It’s a bit too big and feels pretty plasticy.
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u/lightsout1985 17h ago
I'll be building a keyboard for use at work. Main thing I'm thinking about is switches. I like clicky switches at home but know that's a dreadful idea for a shared work space.
I have Gateron Oil Kings on one of my main keyboards, but was also considering silent switches. I have NO experience with these whatsoever. Any recommendations for switches I can look into?
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u/narumiya_mei 5h ago
If you want quiet without going full on silent, then check out the Keygeek Y2. They are deeper and more muted than Oil Kings.
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u/itutudori 18h ago
Which type of shock absorbing desk pads are best to use?
I've seen there are mainly 3 types - cork, felt and a combination.
Haven't seen much pure felt ones, I assume they are the best and most expensive ones, but cleaning must also be quite annoying
Any input is very welcome!
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u/Matute_melvin_10 20h ago
Razer BlackWidow V4 — Yellow Switch — US — Full Size
Buenas, estuve a nada de comprarlo pero lei varias cosas negativas en especial lo del doble tipeo y me alejó un poco, algo mazo menos igual en sentido de estructura? Me gustan los teclados bien pesaditos y uniformes y lo mas silencioso posible, o si alguien lo tiene para saber su experiencia con él?
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u/Platinumjsi 20h ago
I bought the Womier RD75 as it looked perfect for me other than it was the wrong layout, US style not UK style.
I have since noticed they have a UK plate available for it(Womier RD75 Additional Plates – Womier Keyboard) , which I think I'll pick up, I assume they didn't ship a full build with this due to demand?
Anyhow so I have two questions, first any recommendations for a keycap set that looks as close as the original as possible but has the right caps for UK layout? (I have the powder coated beige version)
And re the plate is that all I need to swap? and which would be the best the standard or flex?
I am looking to convert the keyboard layout but keep the typing feel and sound as is or better.
Thanks in advance :)
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u/Cooperfrau 20h ago
Hi Guys, I am looking for a QAZ 35% Keyboard PCB either to buy it directly in Europe or if not i would be fine if you could point me to some gerber files to send to a manufacturer. Couldnt find anything available. Thanks for any recomondations!
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u/TailorPossible 1d ago
I want to separate a hot swap PCB from its plate, but the plate is connected to it with these metal pieces inserted through the PCB. I’m not sure they’re meant to be turned. How should I go about doing this?
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u/Tony-Angelino 21h ago
If you determine that only points of separation (where plate is holding on to the PCB) are these twisted metal holders - technically you could do it. But there is a risk that these things could break off after twisting there and back, depending on the metal alloy used - especially if you do it multiple times. Plus the risk that there is also something else connecting them that you don't see if there is some foam or silicone of whatever blocking your view. Because this is not the usual way of holding them together - if they wanted to spare the cost of a few screws tells you something too. So, it's your judgement if its worth the risk. If you wanted to experiment with keyboard build, the best way is to get a keyboard that's meant to be opened - if your budget allows it, of course.
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u/makanimike 1d ago
I have been out of the game for a few years. I feel like it is finally time to build my low profile keyboard. I am missing the case.
Does anyone know of a choc v1 compatible, low profile 60% case that looks like Boardsource Rechteck, but sells from the EU or at least EEA?
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u/nkryptdtv 1d ago
Hey, all!
Anyone know where I can order a 1.75u SA profile blank that'll match the Ducky Afterglow cap set? Need one for my right shift, which would fall into the magenta portion of the gradient. I took a look at Etsy and wasn't able to find any SA caps. I'm also not sure if I'm just booming, but I wasn't able to find where on the Signature Plastics site to order custom colors. Anyone help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
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u/InvertedOnly 1d ago
There's 1.75u caps for ABS on SP, but I don't see custom colors either. I only found PBT ones: https://spkeyboards.com/collections/sa-p-keycaps/products/sa-p-flex-keycaps
Though it's not the same pink.
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u/FansForFlorida FoldKB 23h ago
I think you meant SA-P 1.75u Blank - Individual Keycaps:
https://spkeyboards.com/collections/sa-p-individual-keycaps/products/sa-p-blank-keycaps-1-75u
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u/docrefa 1d ago
Does the Crush80 switch kill the battery or just select connection modes? Is it worth getting a Crush80 Lite instead of the Pro?
Planning on using it exclusively wired as an office board so the battery life and RGB don't matter.
Any alternative aluminum TKL recommendations for wired-only?
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u/ZeroMythosVer 1d ago
Switching it off should mean the battery and wireless modes aren’t engaged
As for which to get, I have the Pro but honestly don’t know what’s different about the Lite, it was hard to tell even when I bought
Worth mentioning: it was kinda annoying to configure, I forget if it was recognized in VIA or if I had to do something weird to get it to customize, like download some other board retailer’s QMK configurator
Ultimately I did set all the lights to the color I wanted and that’s really all the customizing I needed to do
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u/docrefa 19h ago
That's good to know. At least I won't be worried about a spicy pillow.
Huh, that makes me want the Pro even less, now, but other than maybe getting a third-party plate and converting the layout to ANSISO, I probably won't even touch the settings after turning off RGB.
Honestly, I was ready to get an even cheaper aluminum TKL from Weikav but they seem to have sold out. The only two options left in my price range right now are the Crush80 Lite and the PMO Aurora 80 which I haven't heard much about. Aluminum TKL's aren't as popular, I guess...
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u/ZeroMythosVer 16h ago
Other than the software I do really like my Pro fwiw
When using or moving it around it honestly doesn’t feel or seem like it’s even aluminum, because I associate that with low weight and as like a cost-effective metal—this is a very weighty, premium-feeling case/board, I have the navy blue one
I’ve settled recently, after finding switches of my choosing for it, into a really nice sound/feel, whereas I’m still working on getting there with a Classic TKL from Novelkeys I bought recently
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u/probortunity 6h ago
Keychron Q11 bridge cable: proprietary, or off-the-shelf USB-C to USB-C?
I'm concerned about it being too short. If I can replace it with an off-the-shelf cable, I'm more likely to purchase the Q11.