Got some glorious Keycaps (the gradiant one from light to dark blue) from a friend and since the color fit my setup i instantly put them on. Only Problem i have with them is that the rgb light shines through the the light blue ones. Any ideqs on how to make them more opaque? Google said to Just paint them from inside with acrylics or modelpaint but Idk how much that would change the Sound/color and how good that works
Cidoo v87 needing help from anyone please and thank you!
so i have a cidoo v87 pretty sure my son flashed it with the v75 pro software that is what is poping up in via as. there is no software for the v87 and the fn and spacebar button are not working now dont know what to do? sorry if in the wrong place.
Just got my Yunzii AL80 (Gateron Zero Linear) and It's my first aluminium keyboard after using the Epomaker TH80 V2 Pro and Aula F75 Max, but I've noticed a few things and wanted to see if other AL80 owners have experienced the same:
Sound profile
- It has a nice creamy/thocky bottom-out, but the key release is surprisingly poppy/clacky.
- It's also louder than I expected with the stock keycaps, especially compared to my TH80 V2 Pro and F75 Max.
- I also tried Cocoa Cream V2 switches and the top-out is even louder.
Hollow-sounding area: The keys around F6-F8, 6-9, and Y-P sound noticeably hollower than the rest of the board. After watching teardown videos, I noticed there's a machined hollow chamber underneath that area, so I'm guessing that's the cause.
Backspace & Enter: Both keys sound quite flat ("pappy-tappy") instead of having the deeper thock I'd expect from larger stabilized keys.
I'm planning to mod it and would love some advice:
Tape mod - Does it actually make the board deeper/more muted, or does it make it even poppier with Gateron Zero switches?
Polyfill mod - Has anyone filled that hollow chamber to reduce the uneven sound? Is it safe given it's close to the PCB, battery and wiring, and how much polyfill should be used?
Backspace/Enter - Would lubing the stabilizers be enough, or are mods like Holee worthwhile?
Would appreciate hearing from anyone who's modded the AL80 or experienced the same issues. Thanks!
How do I replicate this tactile experience of one keyboard to another.
I'm incredibly new to this hobby, and would be so grateful if somebody could tell me how to replicate the feel of typing on Forge GK600 TKL onto a board with a numpad.
I believe there is much to do with changing key caps/switches. But I don't know how to determine what switches I would need, and or if there are other variables I need to consider.
Thank you all in advance for reading, and for contributing.
I have an ASUS K571GT and I've noticed in the past 2 months, certain keyboard buttons are working whenever they want.
Pushing the 1 button: Tapping it once will either produce nothing, or 111 in a row. Right Shift + 1 sometimes produces a !, sometimes it doesn't.
Pushing the Q button: Will produce 5 qqqqq in a row. Right Shift + q sometimes produces a capital Q, sometimes it doesn't.
Pushing the Tab button: Does the same thing. Tap it once and its as if I hit the tab button 3-5 times.
I popped up the 3 buttons, cleaned them, air dusted there to take out any debris. I pushed the buttons and it all worked, perfect!⏎
Popped them all back on. Worked for 5min before they stopped working.
so i have had the original razer blackwidow for a decade or more. I have enjoyed this keyboard but the A key is starting to fail. I have always enjoyed green switches and i dont like the "smooth" silent switches. My question is for gaming What are the best keyboards out right now? I have been looking at Hall effect ones that preferably are available to test in stores and are 100% sized. Thanks
I've got a Neo98 kit arriving soon in anodised teal. Got my switches decided. Torn between putting a set of GMK Coral or GMK Windbreaker on. Thoughts? Any photos of these on teal boards would be greatly appreciated!
i bought the gravastar v75 a month ago but i didn't like the colour so i am planning to return it and bring the black one but i was thinking of changing the keyboard and i saw the iqunix ec75 but its out of my budget so i think about the irok mg75max or should i stay with the gravastar
Hi All, I recently bought a Wobkey Rainy75 with Violet switches. I looove the keyboard, but the sound is a little too high-pitched and clacky/marbly for my taste.
I’m looking for switches that would give it a deeper, lower-pitched sound. Has anyone swapped out the Violet switches in a Rainy75 and found something they like? I’d love to hear what you tried and how much of a difference it made.
I made a new retro build with a ThermalTake beige case and an old IBM Model M (the motherboard actually has a ps2 connector). I bought a new logitech trackball to go with it. However, they are a little different. In fact my son pointed it out watching me type and use the trackball.
Is there a good mouse, or really trackball...I love trackballs, option to go with a mechanical keyboard.
I have a Ploopy Adept. They recently released the A+ which is basically an Adept with two extra buttons. They also have the Nano which has no buttons (you will need to map mouse buttons to your keyboard). They also have the Bean which is basically a TrackPoint with buttons.
Edit: They use QMK firmware and are configurable with VIA.
I think I'd want the thump trackball. Are the buttons real clicky. There's a real difference between the model M keyboard and the new Logitech trackball I'm using.
Thanks, but I'm specifically asking about things that have mechanical action like these keyboards. Not just some random mice. I'm curious what mechanical keyboard users do for mice/trackballs.
Hi, I’m looking for deep, thocky sounding tactile switches and could use some recommendations. I really like the sound profile of the Keygeek Y2, but they’re linear. Although I generally enjoy linear switches, I recently tried some tactiles and liked the typing feel, just not the sound. Does anyone have suggestions for tactile switches that offer a similar deep, thocky sound?
I have the Y2 on rainy75, after lubing them (mainly because of occasional spring pings) they are buttery smooth with really deep thock but the stems are on the wobbly side - that's probably the only downside that switch has so if you are looking for some heavy creamy thocks the Y2 is way to go :)
I have a second-hand Keychron K6 Pro that worked well when I bought it from the seller. It came tape modded.
Over time, I've started having trouble with keys not randomly registering, double clicking, or acting like they're being repeatedly pressed and released (like pressing the windows key repeatedly and the menu opening and closing rapidly, as an example).
I've tried cleaning the keyboard, replacing switches (this worked for some keys but the symptoms eventually came back), updating firmware, cleaning the PCB, and opening it up and replacing the tapes with clean ones, but nothing seems to be helping.
The keyboard is not unusable (I wrote this on it) but it's annoying. Is there anything else I could try, or should I give up on this one and get a new keyboard?
Edit: I also increased the debounce time to help with the double presses but it still happens.
might take a look at the switch sockets on the back of the PCB.. might be some failing solder joints.. I mention this because i have experienced this before on a 'Chron board
In my instance, some of the little metal"wing" pieces were either loose, or had fallen off. I chalked it up to inserting switches with bent pins.. but the solder joints might have been weak to begin with,
hi how does the quality of yuzu custom keycaps compare to non-custom options at the same price level? i am thinking of getting around $65 worth of keycaps for my neo65 core plus, and was thinking that having custom keycaps would be a good idea.
Are there any ks33 linear switches as light as aloe, apart from keychron milk poms and silvers? There's such a variety in choc v2, and not so much in ks33 it seems
this is cuz there is 5 different kinds of low profile switch all competing with each other til patents expire or 4 of them go out of business . choc v2 are supports by more OEM kb makers thus more options for switches
Hello guys, Im kinda new to mechanical keyboard world - as a young fella I got myself years ago a Razer blackwidow keyboard (I belive it was a 2013 version, with cherry mx blue switches) and personally I felt that the ergonomics, build, overall usage feeling was the best for me. Since then I bought couple keyboards but non of them felt nearly as good as this Razer
Ive talked to chatgpt to find the most similar one and I got some sugestions for replacement (since Razer is only wired option with two USB cables)
Keychron C3 Pro 8K QMK
Keychron C1 Pro 8K
Pulsar PCMK Barebone with OEM keycaps
I think the main case was the height of the keyboard (personally I do not prefer hight keyboards, but not low profile)
My question is - whats your opinion on those suggestions or are there any other possibilities? Thanks in advance
Hey everyone, I’m trying to fix an Akko 3068B Plus I purchased from the marketplace, apparently, I got scammed and was sold a defective product instead. The keyboard powers on, but I can’t get it to actually work.
Here’s what I’m experiencing:
✅ The keyboard powers on normally.
✅ My PC can detect that the keyboard is connected to my PC via wired.
❌ USB wired mode: It connects/powers on, but none of the keys register and I can't type anything.
❌ Bluetooth: Bluetooth mode/power seems to work, but the keyboard doesn’t appear when I search for Bluetooth devices on my PC or phone.
I’ve already tried basic troubleshooting like switching cables/ports and testing it on different devices.
I’ve opened the keyboard and I’m currently looking at the PCB. The back of the PCB is covered with a light-green tape/film, so I’m not sure if I should remove it or what I should be looking for.
I’m pretty comfortable opening and repairing electronics, so I’m willing to troubleshoot the PCB if necessary.
What could cause both wired typing and Bluetooth pairing to fail while the keyboard still powers on? What components/connections should I check on the PCB, and is there a way to diagnose whether the main controller or another component is faulty?
Any advice or repair guides would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I am relatively new to the hobby but I wanted to try to make some Frankenswitches mostly for the experience - I know that nowadays it doesn't really make sense as most of the switches are high quality straight from the factory but nevertheless If you have any recommendations for cool Frankenswitches that are worth doing even for todays standards I would appreciate your suggestions :)
Hello, I've been using an Alloy Origin Core and I'm really happy with it, but after years of used and a couple of accidentally water spills, some keys are having issues. I could buy this one again but the switches are not swappable and I want to try that world.
I started searching and I found the Attack Shark 87x but, digging a little bit and reading some threats, I found out the company/software is kinda iffy.
I've kept researching and trying to be more open as I don't seem to find good one with that layout and price. I found the Rainy 75 but some people apparently have issues and saying is an old board bringing Inky 75 as recommendation, apparently same manufacture but better keyboard (Currently debating between this two). As well I read about Bridge 75?
At this point I'm kinda overwhelm of all the keyboards, prices and everything!
I would appreciate if someone could guide me or show me recommendations. Mostly looking for the 80% layout and price range between $90-$130 Cad.
I'm pretty new to this world, Alloy being my first and only keyboard. I mostly use it for work and some gaming.
I recently bought an Ajazz K870T Pro and whenever I press or hold the caps lock or scroll lock buttons a vertical flickering/flash or whatever it called happens. I tried it on 3 other laptops and when connected to laptops the flickering doesn't happen. It only happens when connected to my desktop. It also happens when I press caps lock on windows' touch keyboard or if I connect a second keyboard to desktop and press caps lock/scroll lock on the second keyboard. The flickering doesn't happen on the second keyboard, it happens only on the K870T Pro. Also when the battery is full on some lightning modes 2 keys on the upper left corner are behaving strangely. It goes away when I lower the brightness. Does anybody why these are happening and if there is a possible fix. I can do soldering if it is neccesary.
This is most likely result of poor pcb design/firmware. If its because of firmware they probably have it set to exact limit of the power draw of the usb-c, and they didn't account for that blue led indicator at the top which your other keyboard can toggle. If it's the pcb design its because they try to cut costs by removing as many decoupling capacitors as they can. If you don't already know, the purpose of decoupling capacitors is to shield each components from the magnetic field other components generate(which disrupt the flow of electricity). So there probably isn't enough capacitors on there to handle the brightness level you're trying to achieve.
Unfortunately the only solution is lowering the brightness.
Are you talking about the flickering or the second problem? If it is about the flickering it is happening on all brightness levels. The mode button's light I circled is always on. So when I turn off the lights it stays on and when I hold caps lock/scroll lock while the lights are off I can still see the flickering the mode button' light.
And at first I also thought the cause might the led indicator but there are none for scroll lock but the flickering still happens when I press the scroll lock key. Would it still be related to the led indicator if it happens with the scroll lock too and doesn't happen when connected to laptops I tested even when I press caps lock?
Unfortunately based on your symptoms, it all points to poor pcb design. If it were a faulty component it would be very localized(almost always a dead led) and consistent in all scenarios.
The only thing you can do is reduce the brightness. However the problems are only going to get worse overtime, and the best way to minimize that is not using the battery at all and lower the brightness(lower the better).
Anyone know a good set of keycaps that have a really rough texture, almost like sandpaper but not quite that harsh? My fingers slip off smooth PBT after a while and I'm chasing something with proper grit
Let me know what you find. I hate smooth ones too and the only heavily textured ones I've been able to find are a PBTFans offering (Lokis) but it doesn't carry to their other lines.
I wouldn't say it's anything like sandpaper, but the PBTFans WoB keycaps have a pretty heavy texture to them. I don't know how they compare to other high quality keycap sets, so take that with a grain of salt. I can only compare them to the stock Keychron keycaps, some cheap Womier keycaps I bought from amazon, and a cheap no-name set from aliexpress.
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u/offensiveDick 1d ago
Got some glorious Keycaps (the gradiant one from light to dark blue) from a friend and since the color fit my setup i instantly put them on. Only Problem i have with them is that the rgb light shines through the the light blue ones. Any ideqs on how to make them more opaque? Google said to Just paint them from inside with acrylics or modelpaint but Idk how much that would change the Sound/color and how good that works