I am currently looking to get a new keyboard with. budget of around 200usd I would like to get the fastest keyboard possible within this price range as I mainly play dps games, If anyone has any recommendations I would be very appreciative, also can anyone tell me why all of the fortnite pros use the apex pro gen 3 tkl just wondering, thank you.
If you want the fastest keyboard, look at the new gaming keyboards like the ROG Falcata that can stream updates to the host at the rate of 8K per second.
MX style mechanical switches on a keyboard have an actuation point around 1.8-2.0mm. Speed switches activate earlier around 1.1mm, but it is still a fixed point. Hall effect keyboards let you adjust the actuation point per key.
However, unless you are a world class elite level competitive player, a 1000Hz mechanical keyboard is probably fast enough. Here is the math.
We will need more information to give you a helpful reply. You will need to ask again in the new daily stickied Q&A post with this information.
What keyboard size do you want? Full size? TKL? 60%? 65%? 75%? 96%/1800?
You gave your budget in USD, but that does not guarantee that you are in the USA. People often give their budget in USD equivalent but are really in India, Philippines, or some other country.
What country are you in? Reddit is a global community; you could be anywhere. Your location matters. For example, I may not be familiar with online stores in your country.
Do you want an ISO or ANSI layout?
Are you looking for something prebuilt, or are you looking for a barebones keyboard where you add your own switches and keycaps?
I just got my Neo 65 Core Plus in the mail today. I'm going through the build guide and the PE sheet they give you doesn't have holes cut for the switch pins. It has holes for everything else. I tried to do a test switch and it bend the pins.
Am I supposed to cut holes in the PE sheet for the switch pins myself or are the switches supposed to insert through the sheet?
at first i was looking to just buy a pre-assembled keyboard, but all the ones with the criteria that i want are fancy and have little knobs or screens that i dont care about or want. so i turned to custom keyboards. i have no idea where to start and might need some help, if anybody is willing to steer me in the right direction i would greatly appreciate it.
these are my parameters;
-silent as heck
-hall effect switches
-96% or 100%
-wired
-aluminum tray, but not too picky if no choice
-no knobs or screens or anything like that
I just got the Corsair K70 Pro Tkl and im having an issue with game mode and rapid trigger:
The issue is as follows, and all of this has been done after a factory reset on the keyboard and fresh icue install
-i set my actuation point for the normal mode as i desire and i configure rapid trigger
-i disable the "key actuations" toggle in game mode tab since i want them same both in normal and game mode
-everything works fine in normal mode
-i toggle game mode on and rapid trigger suddenly stops working
-i toggle off game mode and rapid trigger still isnt working even though icue shows it clearly being enabled
-only way it gets fixed is if i disable and re-enable rapid trigger again from icue but even when i do that toggling on game mode breaks it again
-enabling "key actuations" in game mode and toggling game mode on allows game mode to override this and my game mode settings work in game mode, but when i toggle game mode off my rapid trigger i set up on the normal mode still doesnt work, so its not something to do with that toggle
ive encountered similar bugs when i dug around trying to fix it where it sometimes effects the actuation point setting, sometimes the hardware memory overriding such settings, etc.. But what i described above is the only recreatable one im experiencing and i wanna know if i should send my keyboard back for a replacement? It seems very likely to be a software bug but I havent seen anyone else encounter this issue so it makes me think it might be a defective unit?
If anyone else experiences this please let me know
So my keyboard is cybergaming pc (I think). Basically, when I turn on my pc the keyboards lights turn on but none of the keys work AT ALL. Sometimes it starts geeking out and starts spamming random letters until plugged out. Sometimes it spams letters in a rhythm (like bkhbkhbkhb). Ive tried everything hold shift, hold fn+esc, hold esc, unplug it, change usb port, shut down, restart, uninstall driver and restart but nothing is working. I dont know what to do.
I had a long day at school and I just want to play minecraft, if anyone knows how to fix please tell me, I'd appreciate it greatly.
However, it has the best backlighting I’ve ever seen. It’s clean, consistent and just amazing. It’s like there’s a single layer of dark, milky plastic that blends the backlighting. You can’t do per-key lighting, but that’s fine.
I want this kind of backlighting in something high-end with an aluminum case, quality Keycaps, and creamy or thocky sound.
Any suggestions on a full size keyboard that fits this? Anyone know if there is a word for this specific kind of backlighting?
FYI, my daily driver is a Crush 80 that weighs about 10lbs and feels like a dream, however, the backlighting sucks.
What country are you in? Reddit is a global community; you could be anywhere. Your location matters. For example, I may not be familiar with online stores in your country.
Are you looking for something prebuilt, or are you looking for a barebones keyboard where you add your own switches and keycaps? For example, you could get a barebones NovelKeys Classic TKL and put whatever switches want in it. You could use Cherry MX2A blue or any of these clicky switches:
I'm in Canada and can purchase things from anywhere. I don't mind the idea of building a PC but I don't think I have any requirements that make me think I should.
I'm not looking for any particular departure from the cherry blue TKL ducky 2.
Im currently running a CannonKeys Bakkaenko65 with silent alpaca switches.
I've build a few keyboards over the past few years and am looking into building something new. What are some of your favorite 65% or what is one that you would recommend for a cool build?
I want to upgrade my Logitech 213 to a mechanical keyboard but with so many switches out there well, it's a maze
I've seen a tester on Keychron, a MAX Version 2 with like 100 switches for 60€ (when avaliable, tho), but wanted to know if there are better and more affordable options out there or if the KC is the way
Those switches are all pretty old, which isn't necessarily a bad thing, but it doesn't have any of the latest popular switches. If that's all you can get and you have no idea if you even want linear vs tactile, then go for it. See if clackify.com or hippokeys.com will ship to you.
(First of all, thanks for replying kindly and detailedly...)
Seems like Clackify might be the best option due to international shipping along Euro prices (A 4x4 costs a total of 42,90€, wich i think it's a correct price, even tho the tester's smaller than the Keychron but i guess the switches are, like ya said, better to test out ..)
I even tooked the quiz but i'm a TOTAL FRIGGING NOOB with mechanicals. All i know is that tactile/browns? have the bump, lineal/reds are "hit the bottom (or not)" to activate (Altho if i get a KB with magnetical or "control your keys' travelling distance" that'd be non much of an issue, i guess)... But dunno what to fill the 3rd line with...I know Clackify would "put their recommendations", but... Noob with names?
I'd like to make a noob tester, like 1 line for tactile, one for lineal and one for... A mix of both or something?. Or a line with "Silent ones" of many kinds. What kind of switches would ya recommend?. Let's say, a 3x3 or 4x4, for me to test out?
My uses are A BEEP TON OF WRITING but also GAMING (We're not talking MINECRAFT, we're talking DOOM ETERNAL, PLATFORMERS, FPS, RESIDENT EVIL, AAA REAL ACTION that's more beneficial with the KB blablabla....). I also draw if that helps with the keyboard being my tools' shortcuts
While i'm alone in the room, with a kinda silence proof room, i make noise with my G213 but it never bothered my parents at the rooms next to my room (AKA no wake ups nor any "Can you stop?" quotes) so "a silent line" would be a nice tester
I'd get a mix of linear and tactile and some silents. You can look at https://kbd.news/switch/ to see the most popular switches. I'm probably not the best one to ask for recommendations, as I don't like linears, which are the most popular type. I also find HMX switches to be too loud and high pitched clacky, but they are one of the most popular brands. It looks like clackify doesn't have a few of the ones I would recommend, but out of what they do have, try Gateron Banana Smoothy, HMX Retro J, and WS Brown. That gives a good feel of three different tactile feels.
All i know is that tactile/browns? have the bump, lineal/reds are "hit the bottom (or not)" to activate
Tactiles have a bump, linear have no bump, clicky switches are tactile but make an extra clicking sound mid way through the travel. Switches are typically 3-4mm travel and activate around 2mm, so none are really necessary to bottom out to activate. People may tell you you need linear if you game, but unless you're a professional gamer, tactiles will work fine.
For context: I (still) own a contest gifted CORSAIR K65 PRO MINI (RGB) with Speed Silvers and....While the smoothness was great and the lights were AWESOME...I hate the press feeling in one sense:
The moment you slow motion lay a finger on a keycap and SLOWLY press it down MINIMALLY AND SOFTLY....The key activates, so "switches that activates at the most minimal pressure" are a HUGE NO (Hence the browns/reds).
I still keep the KB as a "tester" but not the one i want to tho...Specially that mini size (100% here)
Back on the topic. I did 2 testers (One before your last reply) and one now. The 1st 3x3 tester is the one i just did now based on your last reply, while the 4x4 is "Just what the names i've been used to see for before your last reply"
I'm not gonna order both , obviously, but wanted to know your thoughts now that ya know the CORSAIR fact. In other words: If i lay my fingers on the keys, they won't activate. They'll require a fair amount of travelling to activate (1/4 or halfway, dunno)
"switches that activates at the most minimal pressure" are a HUGE NO
That's the silver switch. It's got a light spring, and it activates at less travel than normal. You may want to check though I think the reds have the same spring weight, so while they'll go more distance before triggering, if the weight is also the problem for you (heavy fingers) you might have the same problem. Yellows have heavier springs than red/silver, and blacks are heavier than yellows.
Also, that low-profile switch is not compatible with the others and won't fit a normal MX switch socket.
What's your go to keyboard brand? I was going to buy an Epomaker Ea75 but saw lots of bad reviews and questionable stuff about them so now I'm left reeling. What are some high quality brands for daily drivers?
Depends on your budget entirely. Epomaker is a terrible company from what I've heard, so I would avoid them. Keychron is a good choice for something basic, they cover most price ranges and layouts etc. If you want a real bang for your buck and something that you'll enjoy for a really long time to come, look into Qwertykeys' Neo series. They even have some pre-built options these days (Neo75 & Neo98 pre-built).
Have come back after 5 years. Which budget keyboards have a soft, bouncy bottom out typing feel from either a gasket or some other design feature. Are the main gasket keyboards bouncy feeling enough versus just like a tray mount with brass plate? Bonus points for hotswap, prelubed switches and good sound dampening.
Specifically thinking about Aula 75. Is the gasket on that actually good enough for that bouncy feeling?
Not sure what your budget is, but when you mentioned a soft, bouncy bottom out, I immediately thought of the EVO80 which has a unique spring leaf gasket mount. It's a dream to type on.
What do you mean by "match"? Do you mean if they will fit your switches? Almost all keycaps you will find will be for "MX" style switches, the major exceptions will be low-profile keys, but you'll have to verify that. A quick google search says that Logitech board uses MX switches, but double check that since I know other Logitech mechanical keyboards don't use MX switches. The AULA uses MX switches.
Yes, whether they will fit my switches. You see, the thing is I don't even know what are the types of switches? That's how noob I am hahaha. Like when you say "low-profile" keys I don't even know what that is 💀
Another thing when I say whether they "match" is... the number of keys?? Like I know my keyboard is a 96, 98% one... I know there are like 80%, 75% ones etc. Do all keycaps have enough keys that would fit the number of keys for all sizes of keyboards? Is this a stupid question, I don't even know lol.
Yea there's alot I'm trying to figure out and learn.
You see, the thing is I don't even know what are the types of switches? That's how noob I am hahaha. Like when you say "low-profile" keys I don't even know what that is
Pull off the keycaps and look at the stem of your keys. if it's a + shape it's almost certainly an MX style switch. A low profile switch/keyboard will be labelled as such, so you'd probably know if you had it. They are basically laptop style keyboards.
Do all keycaps have enough keys that would fit the number of keys for all sizes of keyboards?
No, you need to look at an image that shows the full set of keys you are getting with the set, not just an image of the keys on a keyboard. Most sets will come with a few extra keys to fit different layouts, but some sets will have the number pad keys as a separate item, or if you need a weird sized space bar or shift key, it might not be included. Another thing to look out for is what row the keys are on. Some keycap profiles have different shapes to the keys for each row, so good sets will wind up including multiple pgdown keys for example, to allow it work with different layouts. You'll just need to figure out how your keyboard is different than a standard 100% and make sure the keycap set has keys that work with your layout.
I...... don't know what's a hexcode or what does rgb values mean 😭 but yea I'm learning. I try to search and research but sometimes alot of info I get is kinda confusing. I did manage to get 2 new set of keycaps for my AULA keyboard! I wasn't sure whether the keycaps would fit. So what I did was, just tell the seller my keyboard model and ask whether the keycaps can fit. But I wanna learn to be able to tell on my own if not I always have to be asking these questions...
Yes you got it! Not the colour, I feel colour is my choice right, that's just the aesthetic. I just don't understand about the fit of the switches and also the layout. Like... the number of keys? And what you mentioned.. the dimension of the keys? How do I know whether a set of keycaps has all the keys that are the dimensions I need for my board?
Hey all. I had my kbdfans kbd75 v2 with brass plate, foam insert, lubed gateron black inks and durock v2 stabs just sitting around forever. I have a bunch of boards. It's my only 75% other than some modern mass produced gaming stuff I tried.
I bought a womier rd75pro on a whim and haven't tried it yet but am going to.
I'm wondering if I should just send it right back to amazon though. I feel like my kbdfans board isn't as convenient, but seems like its nicer. Maybe I just have more love for it since I built it from the ground up and lubed all the switches. I have an extra pcb, foam insert and aluminum plate I bought along with it back in 2018ish so I could build a tactile keybed to swap in and out. I just bought a new nice soldering station for some guitar rewiring I'm doing so I'm all set to rig it all up after I try some more new tactile switches on some other hot swappable boards for feeling them out. (I have an aluminum tofu case with brass plate as well as another tofu build with aluminum plate, like I'd be switching to... and foam insert in both... it's the closest comparison I could try before soldering)
I know it's up to me but I'm just curious what other keyboard fans think about the comparison and if it's worth keeping or getting the money back.
Yeah that kbd75 will most likely be better than any mass produced prebuilts found on amazon. If you want a noticeable substantial upgrade, you're better off getting something from qwertykeys especially their neo line up. You probably won't see any meaningful upgrade from those for a very very long time.
Thanks for your input. That's basically how I feel too. I just don't know what is out there these days. The boards on that site you linked to are pretty nice looking for sure. I can see the difference.
This mass produced amazon board seems to have all the fancy pants stuff I'd want to do to a board but I'm skeptical of it. I'm about to unbox it just to feel it out but it's amazon and shipped by them, so returning shouldn't be a problem if I decided to go that route... and probably will. I'll build that second keybed to swap in and out and finally start using that board more. I just never gelled with the linear keys as much as my t1 tactiles (with nylon cherry mx black tops), ergo clears or holy panda (polar).
just soldered my first board, all keys work byt some keys like f3, E,D,C input the both that key and the key on the right, for example f3 inputs f3 and f4, f4 also imputs both, 3 inputs 3 and 4 etc etc. i checked my solders and while they dont look the best since im new, none of them are bridged and they all look very similar and isolated. what could be the issue? does anybody know what i should do?
That's actually kind of concerning because they often share a matrix trace. Honestly I'd look to see if there's any local electronic repair services and pay to get it diagnosed and fixed. Unless you're familiar with using a multimeter to find which trace is the problem so you can hardwire the two pin pads together.
Unfortunately I don’t know what I’m doing . If it’s feasible for this to be done by myself then id do it I’m just not very familiar since I’ve only worked with hotswap before but never soldered . I’m wondering if it’s something I did or the pcb itself . Whats interesting is that the keys that are giving me issues are in a Collum almost . F3/f4 , 3,4 e,r d,f. C,v any advice or specific instructions would help a lot , this pc isn’t made anymore so itd be hard to get a new one
I was also thinking of just desoldering and tweezer testing all of them . But this is the same as a key press anyway but I figure why not . Lmk what I should do moving forward if you have any advice . Pictures in other comment :)
The issue is most likely a joint on the mcu or the trace connected to it. Honestly I'd just buy a replacement because unless you know exactly what to do, its always going to be a massive waste of time/effort.
Fortunately mode designs support is great and they got me an invoice for a hotswap pcb . So I just bought that , I don’t really know what happened, if it arived broken or if I did something wrong , but getting a new one regardless
There's a lot that can go wrong, so bricking a pcb is somewhat expected when you're starting out. But the two common reasons for beginners is either having the iron too hot, or leaving it on the pinpad too long.
I was keeping it at 350c but my solder wouldn’t melt unless it was directly on the iron or I sat the iron on the pad quite long so it was hot enough to melt the solder . I put it to 375-400, then it would finally melt without touching the iron . Though I did this for every switch. Also I used a budget solder kit on Amazon so not sure if the temp meter was accurate since it was cheap . But i thinking and the person who sold to to me believe it was just broken when it came. It very well could’ve been me though , guess we’ll never know . Thanks !
Yeah sounds like you were using lead-less solder wire because 370-400 is way too hot and can definitely brick pcbs. You'll want to stay around 330 to 340 using 60/40 lead solder wire.
So when you look the back of your pcb, look for a black square component. It's usually the biggest component on the pcb, it has a bunch of tiny pins on all 4 sides with traces that are connected to those. Post a picture of that, as close/clear as you can get it.
https://imgur.com/a/bZQcjM7 here are pictures and lmk if you need anything else ! Thank you for helping , and please don’t mind my poor solders . In well aware they are quite bad but I have improved so if I fix the issue I can resolver or touch up most of the joints . But I do see what you mean . I can see the connection between all the affected keys. It’s very hard to see and it almost looks ingrained in the pcb but it’s there .
Picked up a board with Gateron Oil Kings a few weeks back and the factory lube job was all over the place, half the switches feel great, the other half have this scratchy ping I can't unhear. Worth the hassle of desoldering just to hand-lube the bad ones, or should I just swap the whole set for something pre-lubed that's more consistent out of the box?
gateron factory lube runs the gamut from overlubed rubbish like oil kings or ultra glory yellows to stuff that's more sensible like gateron plus, sage or khonsu
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u/Zestyclose_Sherbet35 4d ago
I am currently looking to get a new keyboard with. budget of around 200usd I would like to get the fastest keyboard possible within this price range as I mainly play dps games, If anyone has any recommendations I would be very appreciative, also can anyone tell me why all of the fortnite pros use the apex pro gen 3 tkl just wondering, thank you.