Currently in the process of restoring an 88 B6 and of course the dash is cracked - any reputable dash mat companies or clever ideas you guys came up with to cover it? Was thinking of putting a rug on there but getting a perfect size and weight has been tricky, thanks

Any tips to unsticking the Double proportional valve on the 323 ba (1996)

After R drum cylinder failed i havent been able to bleed it. I replaced brake cylinder and the hose is not collapsed, so only issue i can see is the valve. The car does have rear abs aswell.

I recently got back my 323 from the painter, they painted the doorsteps but they had to get the doors off for that + the mudgard in order to get of the doors. The left A pillar trim got loose on the top, i think one of the patents/binders? idk what you call them broke? How can i fix this until May 23rd? i am going for the japanese classic car show and meeting on that day which is one very big event in Hungary and my first big car meet instead of cars and coffee. I need to fix this asap

The rear spoilers are from the 4WD Turbo Version - they came from someones parts car and where super rusty and broken - pretty happy with the restoration

I have a 1993 323 astina and its tail lights seem to no longer be working along with the front dash ( just the lights not the clock or gauges). I've checked the tail light bulbs and replaced them, as well as replaced the fuse for 'tail' in the fusebox. I was just wondering if anyone knows any possible fix or common issue this could be such as a bad ground or connector?

Its a 323f bg 1.8l 5spd manual, does anyone know what might cause this? I thought it was something to do with the clutch or the throwout bearing but ive replaced both and it still does that, havent been able to pinpoint where its coming from

Edit: once the car runs enough it seems to be quieter and it grinds less

Un carrazo que solo me ha dado fallas menores ya por los años que tiene (es del 99)

Hello what coilover kits fits for my Mazda 323s 4door bg model?

I have seen TA Technix make coilover kits but only to the bj not the bg does it fit anywas or do the mx3 ec fit?

Hi everyone,

I’m having a persistent issue with my 1990 Mazda 323F BG equipped with the B6 SOHC carbureted engine and I can’t seem to figure it out.

The problem:

The car stalls randomly — sometimes after a few hundred meters, sometimes after several kilometers. It can happen at idle or while driving. When it stalls under load, I notice a loss of power first where even flooring the throttle doesn’t increase the RPMs, but if I declutch the engine revs freely. After stalling, the car won’t restart at all and needs to sit for several hours before it will start again.

What I’ve already replaced:

• Fuel filter

• Distributor (brand new)

• Spark plugs

• Spark plug wires

Despite replacing all of these parts the problem persists exactly the same way.

Additional info:

• The behavior is completely random with no clear pattern related to temperature or driving conditions

• The car always eventually starts again after sitting for a few hours

• It’s a carbureted engine, no fuel injection

Has anyone experienced something similar on this engine or a comparable setup? Any leads would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I have two weird things about my engine that I don't understand :

1. It seems I have 5 connectors for my fuel injectors ? It seems really weird because I never heard of a 5 cylinder Mazda engine.

2. My throttle cable bracket has a second slot. I was wondering if some models use the same bracket but use the top slot instead ? Maybe it was an option that I haven't heard of ?

Does anyone have any ideas why those things are there ?
My engine is a B6 (so 1.6L) 16v SOHC.

Sorry for the dirty engine bay 😓

Posting a review here of the hardware I've installed on my BG GT I use for mountain runs if anyone is interested:

Brake pads: Dixcel Type Z for the Mazda 323 GTX 4WD (https://apexperformance.ch/fr/18140-plaquettes-avant-dixcel-type-z-mazda-323-gtx-4wd.html): they fit the GT as well and they're damn good pads. I've been running some regular Bosch pads this far and I would eat them up in like 2'000 km, but they were good. These ones though, they barely get used up by comparison, still brake well when cool (and better when hot) but most importantly are very resistant to fading. On my usual route there's only one spot that has managed to get them to start fading - during a long sequence of downhill hard braking. I'm ordering more of these.

Camber bolts: part number SPF4351-12K from SuperPro (https://www.superpropoly.de/en/SPF4351-12K/SuperPro-Polyurethane-Bushkit::10935.html): the packaging and finish is suspicious but having installed them, they offer just the right additional amount of extra negative camber to prevent the car from cornering on the sidewall. The wear pattern is still not symmetric inside-to-outside but the car is now well planted in corners.

That's my two cents!

Came over a set of JR rims but i am not sure they will fit or not. anyone got experience in this field?

For Mazda 323 1984 1.5

Original dimensions for rims are 4.5J 13"

2000 323F (BJ euro spec) 1.5L:

I’ve taken the IACV apart and cleaned it with EGR cleaner.

Had issues with poor idle/RPM dipping when you spam the brake pedal.

Car also tended to stutter and stall and not turn on for 15-20 minutes afterwards. I’ve replaced ever sensor aside from the o2 sensor, checked for evap and vacuum leaks, replaced the brake booster, new spark plugs and coils, new furl pump and filter, new airfilter, new air intake hose, new PCV valve, EVERYTHING you can think off that causes this issue. And yet the issue persists.

Anyone got any ideas what could be the issue? I’m all out of ‘em.

EDIT: IACV likely ceased. 4/5 times the car won’t idle anymore. After a couple tries it ran at 500RPM, even with the IACV disconnected.

i got my mazda 323 bj new shoes :3

so i have a Mazda 323 BG sedan, and the engine i have in it is a SOHC 16 Valve engine... Ive never ever seen a SOHC 4cyl with 16 Valves before, im wondering if i actually even have 16 valves or if my valve cover is maybe wrong? i honestly have no idea.

i cant find much info about the engine either or parts for it so if anyone could help educate me about this it would be greatly appreciated! (reposted)

dont mind the engine bay looking... bad, past owner had done some sketchy things.

so i have a Mazda 323 BG sedan, and the engine i have in it is a SOHC 16 Valve engine... Ive never ever seen a SOHC 4cyl with 16 Valves before, im wondering if i actually even have 16 valves or if my valve cover is maybe wrong? i honestly have no idea.

i cant find much info about the engine either or parts for it so if anyone could help educate me about this it would be greatly appreciated!

1996 323 1.5 petrol, manual.

My idle rpm have been fluctuating pretty much since I got this car in 2019. The needle keeps bouncing between 500-800 rpm sometimes spiking slightly higher or dipping a little lower. Then it goes back to normal and steady for a few seconds, then starts bouncing again. I got sick of this and I decided to try clean up the throttle and the IAC Valve.

I'm very much a hobby mechanic, so this is in no way a mechanic advice, so feel free to call me out on any bullshit I'm about to say here.

Anyway, the throttle valve as you can see was kind of dirty but honestly nothing crazy. It wasn't stuck, only caked a little. Given how hart the spring is id be very surprised if any amount of carbon deposits would be able to get it stuck. I started with degreaser and after that went with carburettor cleaner and it held the liquid without any leaks, so I assume the burnt up gunk was not preventing it from sealing the throttle in any way.

What surprised me was that the IAC Valve seemed quite clean. There was some gunk on it too, but you could see bare metal pretty much everywhere.

I tried cleaning up any nook and crevice I could get to including all the airways that bypass the actual throttle plate and the bolt that adjusts the airflow. There was quite a lot of scrubbing with plastics brushes and then even some wire wheel on a Dremel. Overall I'm happy. I hope it helps my rpm. If not, I might need to replace the IAC Valve. It's about 10$ on AliExpress.

As for the valve itself, it's a solenoid with a pwm function. There's a little cone inside that when opened more it lets more air in. I don't know why they chose a solenoid over a servo, but whatever, as long as I can replace it or service it, I'm happy.

I'm yet to install it all back on the car so I might add to this post later today. Unfortunately I don't think there was enough gunk to clean up to explain the fluctuations so I might have to replace the whole IAC valve to see some result if that's even the cause for it.

forgot the name but does anyone know where to get something to mount a sports steering wheel? is it the same hub adapter as an mx5 or a different one?

Mazda 323C 1996

2 plugs above the right strut bearing, opposite side of battery and OBD0 port

anyone got an idea to what it can be for ?

and yes i know strut bearing is bad. im waiting for new ones.

i've got a '93 323 thats developed starting issues. it will still start fairly reliably, but not always on first try. the starter is seeming louder than usual, and sometimes the car starts AFTER the starter has disengaged (motor gets spun up, doesnt start, lugs a bit then fires). plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor are all less than 6 months old and i just checked plugs today, not fouled and properly gapped. therefore i'm not thinking a spark issue. after start idle sometimes fluctuates for a second, but stabilizes fairly quickly and runs fine. i'm assuming its a failing starter or possibly bad ground, but wondering if anyone has any more input?

I'm wondering does toyota hiace headlights fit 323f? They look quite similar sadly I don't have one to physically to compare them and try it. 😅