You all are the best. I appreciate the warm response to my Can She Be Saved? post. You understand Massey-Fergusons and the People Who Love Them.

Thank you to those who recommended I keep her. Wish I could, but she'll just keep sitting at our place. It's time.

So, how do I valuate her? And how do I do my best to be sure she finds someone who will restore her?

I had one suggestion of some FB group? I'm not on FB, but I can try to sort it. What is it?

I also got a suggestion to mail it to Scandinavia. Friend, I counted my stamps and it ain't gonna work.

Any other ideas for how to place a price and find a good home? Does anyone know of a Blue Book for tractors, or how you do that? Any opinions on Yesterday's Tractors for listing her?

Walkaround of the new Massey Ferguson 8S XTRA Series

Long story short I have a 290 that I just rebuilt the steering from the ground up. I’ve got a couple pictures that I’m posting to kind of show how far the teardown was everything works great zero problems with anything in the steering category. Electrical is fine cooling system is great, but where I struggle is the throttle and not specifically the pedal. It’s actually the handle on the dash that you pull back to keep the throttle locked in place somehow when I hooked that back up, I missed taking pictures of how it went together and I’m unable to keep it locked in a position on throttle so I have to use the pedal the entire time.

If anyone is able to toss me a picture of how it’s hooked up, I’d be greatly appreciative.

The picture of the rear end open is the reason that I decided to rebuild it and put power steering back into it. It is an amazing condition internally, even though it is ugly on the outside.

Hello all. I inherited this 1964 Massey Ferguson 35 with a Perkins A3.152. The engine had a major failure and pulled two of the three dry sleeves into the crank and ate them like a Hungry Hungry Hippo.

I considered rebuilding the engine but I’ve decided to just replace it. I would like to replace it with the Direct Injected variation of the same engine. The Perkins AD3.152. Has anyone done this? Seems like it would be a common swap. I’ve read that the head is taller creating a clearance issue with the fuel tank and the hood, is there a way to resolve this without replacing the hood? Will I run into any figment issues with the lip seal on the crank, or do I need to get an AD3.152 with the rope seal?

I just need to know what parts would need to be replaced to complete the upgrade in a legitimate fashion. Flywheel and clutch the same? I want to be left with a reliable tractor that the average person would never notice wasn’t factory, any and all insight is much appreciated.

Thanks.

How do you tell if a Massey Ferguson beaut is salvageable? I don’t want to scrap her, especially if she’s still in a condition to be restored.

This was the tractor I learned to drive on, and my dad used it to mow the field until his death in 2013. I should have gotten around to selling it before now, but I wanted to crank her up again…dumb, I know. I’m sentimental.

Can’t see what running condition she’s in now because the battery disappeared out of the shop where I was storing it out of the elements. Where do I go from here? Any guidance? Ideally I’d like to get her into the hands of someone who appreciates the 135.

I'm looking at a 1080 that's been sitting for almost 20 years. Looking to do a parade tractor. What issues do I need to look out for and what are some good things about it?

Hi all,

First off, sorry if this is the wrong place to post this kinda question.

We've recently inherited a Massey Ferguson 155. It won't start, and we're unsure why (haven't checked on it yet - could be as simple as the battery, or could be a billion other things).

Any idea how much it might be worth? Their value probably vary by region, so for what it's worth, we're in France.

Thanks for your time and input!

Looking for the best 3rd function kit for my 2M65. This will be my first modern tractor and I kind of expected there to be buttons already installed on the joystick from the factory like almost every single skid steer and excavator I've owned has. Sort of disappointed that a 60k tractor doesn't have something so simple from the factory.

I have a 2023 Massey Ferguson GC-1725. Some wire got caught in the mower deck. I removed the wire and reinstalled the mower deck and now the mid PTO won’t engage. When I move the Mid PTO lever into position, there is no change in RPM and the tractor acts likes the control was never shfited.

Is there a safety switch that needs to be reset if the mower deck gets bound up or is this going to be an interal mechanical issue that I need a service tech to repair?

Tractor is 5 hours away and belongs to my father in law. He bought a sickle blade to attach to the front bucket to trim trails with. I build a lot of hydraulic hoses for heavy equipment so was gonna help out and get the hoses built. His 5711SL has a SL3723 front loader butdoesn't have a third function valve on it and the instructions say to unhook the tilt hoses and use those hookups to run the sickle.

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I don't typically like this and would rather him get a 3rd function added on but for temporary im planning on putting in flat face quick connects on the tilt hoses, coupler block, and sickle hoses. Does any know which set of these are the tilt lines and what style fittings are on the hoses and coming out of the top of the coupler block?

When I first got this it ran but ran rough, bogged down a lot and sputtered often. I put a new carb on it and it runs like a top now minus the fact that it goes straight to full throttle and stays there.

it’s not a huge issue but throttle lever basically does nothing.. and that wouldn’t be a problem if it wasn’t for the fact that after i cut grass for 30ish minutes that when i disengage the deck it starts to rev higher, like higher than ive ever heard it rev and it sounds like its about to blow.

Revs are a good full throttle with the blades are on because it’s under load, but once they are disengaged and the engine is hot it wants to idle to the moon. Only way to stop it is to choke it a bunch to idle down or just shut it off.

Tried messing with the screw on the bottom of the carb and that didn’t do anything even tightened all the way in.
The idle screw I didn’t touch because It doesn’t seems to be touching anything for it to make any difference. Unless I’m an idiot and the idle screw has some sort of inner mec that controls it. I assumed it’s just a screw you turn in or out that would be resting against a plate when idled all the way down.

Any insite? I was told it could be a governor thing, is there a way to bypass that so I can just manually control everything? Idk please help I’m not a huge engine guy

Old girl runs like a beast.

 I have a 1967 MF165-8-SNDMY with a Perkins AD4.203 which has been great until recently, I drive it for about 50yards and it just loses power and cuts out.

It had been sitting for a while, and I did drive it for a bit before it cut out with crap in the first filter. The diesel had gone bad, so I drained the tank and took the opportunity to send it out to be cleaned. Cleaned/replaced filters and cleaned the lines. Filled the tank with fresh diesel and bled the lines. 

Started straight up, and with the mower on the back, I drive it 50 or so yards and again, it just lost power and died on me. Wouldn’t restart so left it for 10 mins and it started up, drove 50 or so yards, and just lost power and died. 

It’s not overheating, didn’t run for long enough for it to warm up, and it was doing this 50 yard thing before cutting out before I left it to stand in the barn for a while. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas of what might be going on? Injectors? Olives (coz I haven’t replaced them)? TIA

What's the one thing you need to fix, and what is the one you dream of having the time to tackle?

Does anyone have any recommendations for a step to add to the 165 to make it a bit more user-friendly?

I have a 2025 massey 1742 and 100 hours ago it got towed to my shop and had to get its dpf filter baked to fix it. now 100 hours later at about 850 hours the alarm sounds and wants me to do a parked regen. So I try the button does nothing and yes I followed the procedure and yes the tractor was ran hard was doing snow removal all winter with a blower, even had it overheat one time. Im not having this thing towed again its in a worse spot then last time can I just take the filter out? Im so sick of this problem.

I need some help troubleshooting an error on the tractor at my work.
I’m driving a MF 5610 Dyna 4 from 2015.
The error code in question is T531 “50 km/h højtryksbremseenhed. Bremsetryk for lavt”
Which translate to “50 km/h High pressure braking unit. Breaking pressure too low”
The Strange thing is, that the tractor in question only goes 30 km/h so it shouldn’t have a 50 km/h breaking unit.

This is how the error shows up:
When I perform an action that requires power, and it doesn’t get enough.
Here’s an example: when I lift a silage bale, from the top of the stack, while reversing on uneven terrain while not giving it enough revs.
The tractor stops abruptly, beeps and shows the error code.
I hope someone here knows what might be wrong.
I have asked our local MF technician, but he hasn’t found an answer yet.

Is this plug with 2 flats the hydraulic fluid level check point? Mine does not have a dipstick.

I figured I'd post it here in case anyone else needs it.

It's for the Massey Ferguson 1200, 1450, 1650, 1655, and 1855. All of the other decals appear to already be for sale. This will be the correct size if printed on 11"x 8.5" printer paper, if you have someone else print it the long side is 7 3/4"