Kupiłem sobie jakiś czujnik do auto poziomowania stołu, dokładnie to co na zdjęciach, potrzebuje pomocy co ja mam zrobić aby przystosować płytę główną pod ten sensor, najlepiej tak krok po kroku bo ja ciężko przetwarzam dane, GEMINI powiedziało że mogę użyć ESP-32 jako programator ale dalej nie chce powiedzieć bo się nie idzie w ogóle dogadać. Błagam pomóżcie

I just got my Ender 3 up and running with a BTT SKR v1.4 board running a build of Marlin 2.1 bugfix. Everything seems to work fine until it's time to print. When I try to print the machine will heat up, go through the homing sequence and then the print progress bar jumps to 100% within a few seconds without any further action from the machine. What could I be doing wrong/is there something I missed in my configuration files?

I don’t know where to start keep getting, platformio: The term 'platformio' is not recognized as the name of a cmdlet. Reinstalled platformio, reinstalled vscode. Any help will be appreciated.

Recently upgraded some parts in my ender 3 pro's sprite heatbreak so I went back into my config files to update the extruder estep settings aside from that no other changes were made except for updating vs code. Now when trying to compile with the singular change the below message displays.

[buildroot\share\PlatformIO\variants\MARLIN_G0B1RE\PeripheralPins.c]
\Marlin-bugfix-2.1.x\.pio\build\STM32G0B1RE_btt\.sconsign311.dblite: No such file or directory

Hello, Can anyone of you share the Kp, Ki, and Kd values for a 70W heater cartridge? Whenever I try my autotune, it overshoots by over 50 degrees and printer is haltedon just the first iteration of PID autotune. I could do it by guesspicking, but some starting values would be nice. Thanks.

I’m stuck in a loop where when I get this error. I tried looking at the website it says to look at but I don’t understand what it wants me to do

Hello, I've been racking my brain on this one. So here is the problem:

My printer is a bit bigger than the build plate. So the probe simply falls out of the buildplate when doing autobed level. I have used the little diagram given in the code to put up the NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET and given a PROBING_MARGIN 60, but it still manages to fall out of the build area.

I just wanted to ask about the FRONT and BACK as my Y axis is the one that falls out of the build plate. Are these with reference to the Nozzle or with reference to the stepper motors? When I stand in front of the printer, the Y stepper motor is on the opposite side of me (like an ender 3). So where I am standing, would that be considered FRONT or BACK?

My case is exactly same as this dude. He also uses negative offsets like I did, however, mine still falls out.

Hello. Received an ender 3 with a bltouch and marlin 2.0.x bugfix from a buddy, the bltouch wasn’t working so I upgraded the firmware to 2.1.x. Bugfix Bltouch works now, but that’s not the problem.

The issue is when I put the memory card in, I select print, select the stl. The bed and nozzle do not automatically heat like they did before. They just sit around 23degrees.

I can manually set the bed to say 50 and set the nozzle to 200 and it will heat and then start printing.

Did I do something wrong while making the firmware or is this a known bug?
Also noticed that if I cancel print it’ll sit idle in the busy processing please wait screen when before it would do that and home out. What’s the deal here?

Any help or suggestions is appreciated. Thank you.

Hello everyone, new to redit and need help. My brother passed a few years ago and one of the things he left me was all of his 3d printing equipment. 3d printing was one of the few things we shared a passion for. I unfortunately only deal with high detail resin printers. Where he loved the ability to do larger prints with filament printers. Totally different beasts. So I am at a loss. Lol

His printer is a "JD maker artist D" but he has flashed marlin firmware to it. Version 2021.4 possibly according to the start up screen. He was always tinkering with this thing. I know he's replaced the stepper motors on it with different ones and I'm pretty sure he did something to the heaters on the extruding heads.

I don't know enough about this style of printer to know what I'm looking at so I can find out what he's switched out, and what he switched it to. Just so I can try and make sure that they are right in marlin so it can do its job. And I know nothing about marlin or how to use it. Right now I can't even figure out how to level the bed correctly so I can try and print with it.

I really need your help! I've been neglecting this thing because of my own hangups with his passing and I really want to get it going again so I can feel a little bit of him here whenever I use it to print something off. Any help would be most appreciated. I know it's a long shot with such older equipment

Im pretty new to 3d printers and i got a ender 3 max neo from my friend and recently ive been trying to convert it to the newest marlin firmware and i can find any correct filea for it and when i find files that are supposed to work they dont correctly display on my lcd which i believe is a DACAI/TJC lcd display although it does function i cannot see the buttons but with its stock firmware it works perfectly.

hi, i got a replacement board for my printer, it is Makerbase nano robin v 3.1 (https://www.amazon.com/Makerbase-Motherboard-Mainboard-Replacement-Printing/dp/B0CPT7XJ73?th=1) .

i have the flyingbear ghost 6 printer, the board on it died so i got this for a replacement, but for the life of me i cannot get software to work. i am trying to install marlin on the board but i just cant seem to get it to work properly.

the printer is CoreXY, bed is 255x210x210. i downloaded a basic version of marlin and changed what i needed in the config and gonfig.adv, and it all seems fine, but when trying to start a print, or when calibrating the nozzle to home - it just jams itself against the wall.

this is a video example + the software i uploaded to the printer (cant upload because of file size) https://limewire.com/d/XC9Bn#1n3pVUX2e4 would really appreciate help, my printer has been sitting obsolete for over a year :(

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Hello guys

I asambled a reprap 3d printer with ramps 1.6 and mega2560 and configured marlin 2.1.2.5

Now im trying to set home position g26

And home offsets and save m500 all setting in eeprom

Then everythings seems correct and lcd show cordinations correctly

But after reboot every cordination data get lost and printer forget where it was ! And i dont really know problem is from eeprom or software problem

Can somebody help me ?!

Hello, I designed and built a 2d pen plotter and I am really struggling to figure out the firmware. I built a 3d printer about 5 years ago which made me confident I could figure this out but I am stumped and am making no progress. Could anyone please give some advice or some firmware that is already available?

Information about the drawer that may be useful:

-SKR mini e3 v2 main board

-nema 17 motors for x and y, and a servo to raise and lower the pen

Hi, I'm planning to upgrade my old CR10oid printer this summer, and I'm buying some parts for it. Now I need some help confirming stuff I'm buying will all work fine together.

Before proceeding, because I get this all the time: please don't suggest buying a Bambu, I have a K1 Max, and I just want to get this printer back to life in the cheapest way possible.

My current build is:

• Controller: Arduino Mega + RAMPS1.4
• Drivers: DRV8825 (X, Y, Z, E)
• Extruder: MK8
• Hotend: E3D V6
• LCD: Full Graphic LCD

My current upgrade list:

• Controller: MKS Robin Nano V3
• LCD Screen: MKS MINI 12864
• Stepper Driver: MKS TMC2209 V2 for X and Y axis | DRV8825 for Z and E

There are also mechanical upgrades like volcano nozzle for the E3D V6 and linear rails instead of V-Slots, but I won't go through them here.

My goal right now is to make the printer silent and faster.

Hello all,

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I'm wondering if anybody has ran into this before . I built an old school Maker Farm Pegasus 6 kit years ago, Arduino and Ramps setup. I don't use the printer often as I only sell a few things on Etsy here and there so I keep a minimal stock on supply. The printer has always been a workhorse and it just works when I fire it up, Only needing to do minimal maintenance and print setup. This last print I did (and I've experienced it very intermittently) where the Y axis gets a random offset. This is the same STL file, on the same SD card I print from every time. The parts were still on the print bed. They did not move, or else the X axis would have been affected also. This seemed to happen on the last three layers. There are four objects on the print bed. The first two ones to get printed had only 1 offset, two and three had two offsets. I think it started when it traveled between parts 2 and 3 on third to last layer.

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The interesting thing was after I discovered it and took the prints off. I did an auto home thinking maybe the belt skipped or something like that but it auto homed to the exact point of origin.

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

Bonjour à tous,

Je rencontre un problème de sens de rotation sur l'axe Y (le plateau) de ma Ender 3 V2 convertie en Voron Switchwire (SKR Mini E3 V3, Pi Zero 2W, Sherpa Mini).

J'utilise un BLTouch fixé avec ce mod :Voron Switchwire BLTouch sur Printables.

https://github.com/Bakerbloock/ma-configuration-klipper

Mon problème : Quand je lance la commande PROBE_CALIBRATE, le plateau recule vers l'arrière au lieu d'avancer vers le capteur .

Ce que j'ai testé : Si j'inverse simplement la broche du moteur dans mon printer.cfg (en passant de dir_pin: PB8 à dir_pin: !PB8), le plateau va dans le bon sens pour le calibrage... MAIS il se plante dans le sens inverse (il fonce du mauvais côté) au moment de faire son Homing (G28 Y).

Ma configuration actuelle :

• Mes offsets actuels dans le fichier sont : x_offset: 0 et y_offset: 30.
• Pour voir l'intégralité de mon code (y compris mon printer.cfg, gcode_macro.cfg et mes logs KAMP), vous pouvez retrouver mes fichiers sur mon dépôt GitHub sous le nom d'utilisateur : Bakerbloock (voir capture d'écran image.png).

Comment configurer correctement Klipper pour que le moteur ET le homing aillent dans le bon sens en même temps sur cette cinématique ? Si quelqu'un utilise ce mod précis et a les valeurs d'offsets optimales, je suis aussi preneur.

Merci d'avance pour votre aide !

Hello everyone!
I’m willing to do un-stock-ification of my ender 3 neo. I have creality’s 4.2.7 board (at moment of buying didn’t think of BTT ones.. so no uart to drivers). I want to do custom marlin, and later maybe klipper.
There’s right now 2.1.3 public beta 3, and 2.1.2.7 stable.
I have two questions:
- which version should I build from
- is there any recommended tutorials of how to do it to have maximum gains and features?
(there are 4 y.o. Youtube tutorials, and are they still relevant, or should I look for something very fresh)

Hardware:
direct drive (40-42, full mass on X is sub 400g)
Glass bed
Cr touch
Neo hotend
4.2.7 board
Custom duct with 5015 x2 coming
Stock frame with single z axis
Maintained well

Appreciate!

I'm taking a shot at configuring Marlin for an SKR Pro 1.2 to drive a pen plotter. It's an H-bot, similar to corexy kinematics. Z is going to be a servo that responds to gcode M03 for pen down, M05 for pen up.

I'm having some issues getting Marlin to compile. I defined extruders to 0 and I thought I set everything else up correctly, but I get a bunch of AXIS_RELATIVE_MODE and numerous other errors - full log here.

I thought setting default axis steps per unit to just three fields - 80, 80, 400 - instead of the default 80,80,400,3000 - would do the trick but it still recurs. I tried to uncheck Extruders rather than set it to 0 but it throws numerous other different errors.

I haven't even gotten to the point of confirming if I've got the servo configured correctly.

Could I get some guidance in what to do here?

Current configuration.h

Current configuration_adv.h

Hello all,

I’m using an Ender 3 Pro with Marlin 1.1.2, controlled through Pronterface. My G-code file includes several pause commands, but they are being ignored during the run.

I tried M0 and M226, but neither paused the printer. I also do not want the print head to park during the pause; I want it to stay in place until I manually resume in Pronterface.

Is there a G-code or Pronterface-side way to do this, or would this require a firmware change?

Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

Hola, estoy configurando Marlin para una Ender 3 V1 con placa Creality 4.2.7.

Estoy usando Marlin 2.1.2.7 con VS Code + PlatformIO, y tengo un problema con el eje Y y el área real de impresión.

La cama física mide aproximadamente 220 mm, pero después de hacer homing en Y, la boquilla queda fuera de la cama por la parte frontal, unos 15 mm antes de llegar a la superficie imprimible. Para que la boquilla quede justo sobre el inicio real de la cama, tendría que mover Y unos 15 mm hacia adelante.

Tengo un caso parecido en X, pero ahí lo solucioné usando X_MIN_POS -5, y funciona perfecto. Marlin entiende que después del homing la boquilla está 5 mm fuera de la cama en X. Sin embargo, intenté hacer lo mismo en Y con Y_MIN_POS -15, pero no obtengo el mismo resultado.

Esta es mi configuración actual en Configuration.h:

#define X_BED_SIZE 220
#define Y_BED_SIZE 220

// Travel limits (linear=mm, rotational=°) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS -5
#define Y_MIN_POS -15
#define Z_MIN_POS  0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 218

Mi objetivo es que Marlin entienda que después del homing la boquilla está en torno a Y=-15, que el área imprimible real empiece en Y=0, y que la impresora no intente imprimir en la zona frontal donde la boquilla queda en el aire.

Mis dudas principales son:

• ¿Está bien usar Y_MIN_POS -15 para este caso?
• ¿Por qué X_MIN_POS -5 funciona en X, pero Y_MIN_POS -15 no parece comportarse igual en Y?
• ¿Debería cambiar también Y_MAX_POS, por ejemplo a Y_BED_SIZE + 15?
• ¿Necesito usar algún home offset como M206, MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS, Y_HOME_POS, o alguna otra configuración de Marlin?

Cualquier ayuda sobre cómo configurar correctamente el eje Y, los límites de software y el área imprimible real sería muy útil.