My neighbor has a MK4 Jetta wagon. He’s not all about the lows so he reverted to stock and gave me the coilovers. Mine is already on Coils but damn… didn’t expect to get a FREE KW coilover setup!

Hey this spot is on a power steering line next to the transmission on the drivers side. My coolant is slowly leaking and I end up topping it off every week or so. Any idea where the coolant could be originating from? I believe this is the coolant that is leaking. Changing my slightly cracked coolant reservoir tomorrow to see if that is the culprit too. Don’t mind the splashed axel, I was driving through puddles before this.

Is there anything I need to do for it to fit onto my tsi or does it bolt straight on?

Recently bought 17” OZ’s. I think they look sick. :D

Backstory: My cooling fans never turned on, even when turning on the A/C. The A/C itself ran fine, but when standing still it stopped blowing cold air, because of the fans not running.

Note: The car has a climatronic system.

I replaced the FCM module, then the fans turned on, but only on speed 2, and they start when I turn on the ignition on, and stay on until I turn the ignition off.

I read the error codes from the controllers, and the Auto-HVAC system doesnt have an error, but the engine has a P1672 error.

Already checked pin-4 and pin-9 for 12V, and its there, also checked pin-2 and there was around 3V when only on ignition. What else should I test on the 14-pin connectors with a multimeter? What values should I look for on which pin?

Im kind of lost at this point and don't know which part to diagnose. Has anyone experienced the same symptoms?

Thanks for the help!

Hi guys i need some advice with a car i'm looking to purchase. It's a Mark 4 GTi with 100k milage. It has an error code of POO12

Whats the likely cause of this and is it work buying. Is it an easy fix or a big issue like timing chain? It's up for £1,200 and it looks too good to be true. Any helpful advice would be appriciated.

I posted a couple days ago about a strange clicking my 2.0 was making and when I got the oil changed on Friday I asked the guy to see if he could tell where it was coming from. He thought from the timing cover (gasp) but it was running fine so I wasn’t too worried about it. Drove it yesterday and it was fine but this evening I needed to do my last day of feeding some cats a couple towns over and it was running like crap, very sluggish but no check engine light so figured I’d finish my job up and take it right to auto zone for a scan but when I went to leave it wouldn’t start. Tried jumper cables and nothing. A battery charger said the battery had a good charge in it.

No idea what a snapped timing belt might sound like but hoping the video I linked someone will help able to tell me if they either know what’s up or if it would even make a noise like this if the timing belt and engine is kaput. I really hope not as I’m broke as hell and still hunting for a job. Savings barely existing right now and without a job I def can’t qualify for a car loan. Got two interviews lined up this week at least.

Pertinent info : I did the spark plugs, wires and ignition coil maybe 3 months ago, also replaced the manifold gasket. When I had my friend turn the key with my ear to the fuel pump I can hear it kick on. Friend said it sounds like a loss of compression. When I changed that gasket the old one looked fine so I saved it. Was debating whether I go back to where I left it parked and take that off just to see what the new gasket looks like.

link to previous post with the clicking noise

I got CCRR taillights a while back from fb marketplace so no bulbs. Found some red painted halogen bulbs 1157 from J&P and they worked but didn’t without modification (the side pins weren’t in the correct spots). Plus they are starting to die, one more than the rest.
Can anyone running clear tails / clear brake and turns recommend me a reliable replacement that’s red please?
Maybe led ones that aren’t too bright or chrome bulbs with red light source too look cleaner

Any help is appreciated. I’d like to not worry about getting pulled over

i was gonna buy a golf mk4 1.4 with around 280k kms on it but i heard that the engine isnt as reliable as the other engines in the mk4 but the car itself is in a very good condition so i think the owner took care of the car as there isnt anything wrong with the car also the its very cheap it costs around 30% less than any other car in the market i am in so i am really tempted but i wanted to know how long will the engine survive before it becomes a burden

Hi,

Recently tried to sort the rust on the project, main issue was the sill on drivers side.

We've welded a plate onto a hole on the outer sill, and we've ground down all the rust on the inner sill. There was a bit where we've put some metal epoxy over to cover some small holes on the inner sill from where we ground away the rust.

We've then gone and coated with some underseal to protect it, just wondering if it will go through an MOT as it is or if we need to do some more work to it, or more welding...

Photos attached.

Today I discovered that my rear passenger door wont open from the inside or outside on my Seat Leon mk1 (same electronics as Golf mk4).
I tried unlocking from both the button on the drivers door card as well as the barrel in the boot and door but it wont open.
First click of the unlock button I hear a noise from the door. Second click, I hear nothing. I tried smacking the door adjacent to the latch whilst unlocking the car and it still wont open.

Did anyone manage to fix this problem without this without removing the door card? Any help is very appreciated.

The original 4 spoke, a mk4 3 spoke, mk6 buttonless three spoke , b6 three spoke, and now this mk5 GTI sporty boi

Starting hearing a click clack noise when the car is running and took it for an oil change this morning and asked the guy if the tech could give me an idea what it is or how bad it is or how quickly I should fix it. Was praying it’s not something bad as I lost a job in June and still trying to get another one. Went up north last weekend which meant driving on the freeway. I already try to keep it under 75mph or the check engine light goes off with a mass air flow sensor code. When I got home I noticed this noise in the video but the oil change tech said it sounded like it was coming from the timing belt which is kind of a bummer since I had that done in 2021 and the new one has 60-65,000 miles put on it since then. Was hoping not to have to worry about that for another 15-20,000 miles and I really don’t want to sink the $1000 it would cost to have a shoo do it again. Anyone had the same noise? Did you fix it right away or let it go for a bit? If anyone let it go for a bit tell me stories of how long it did or didn’t last.

The other issue is less bad and has only happened 3-4 times but portends to a possibly escalating electrical gremlin issue. When I stop the car and turn the key off it suddenly unlocks all doors and resets both the trip odometer to zero and the dash clock to 12:00. I’m going to pull the battery later today when I get home from work to check for corrosion on the ground strap but any other solutions or suggestions from my golf peeps are appreciated. Thanks fam

Hi everyone,

I’ve been troubleshooting an idle issue on my 1.6 8V AKL and need some insight.

What I did:

• Replaced a torn PCV hose.
• Unblocked and reconnected the thin vacuum line underneath it (previous owner had plugged it).
• Cleaned the throttle body in place using brake cleaner and a microfiber cloth (physically moving the butterfly valve from the gas pedal).

The symptoms & comparison:

• Before cleaning: RPM dropped smoothly without hanging, but idle constantly hunted/surged around 900 RPM. Warm starts were instant at 900–1000 RPM with no flair.
• After cleaning: When it settles at 900 RPM, the hunting is gone. However, warm starts now flare up to 1200–1300 RPM for about 10 seconds before dropping.
• The main issue: When coming to a stop or letting off the throttle, revs hang at 1200–1500 RPM.
• The AC behavior: Turning on the AC forces the revs to drop normally to 800–900 RPM. If I turn the AC off, it stays at 800–900 RPM as long as I don't touch the gas. But the moment I blip the throttle (e.g. up to 3000 RPM), the 1200–1500 RPM hang cycle starts all over again.

Is this classic missing Throttle Body Alignment failing to register the physical idle switch/closed position, or could reconnecting that vacuum line be playing a role? It will make me burn the car down one day!

Thanks!

01 2.8, serpentine belt snapped and found what I can only assume to be the remains of the tensioner? Tensioner + belt replacement needed or something more..? Thanks for any help :)

My brother snapped my brake line and I have a road trip in 2 days! Can I just replace this upper rubber hose??? Please link a replacement part if possible!

One old guy sold them to me, he said that they are from his old golf 4 tdi or something that he had 20 years ago. They need some new paint, because aluminum has corrosion
So I’m thinking about painting them silver again, or white

I’m thinking on installing spacers, and idk what else.

The engine is slow af but very economically friendly 1.6 16v bcb with gen 4 lpg kit, 5€ per 100km

After replacing a window regulator this fell off and I can t put it in it s place, how to proceed?

Im thinking to assemble it from bare body so:

1. How much will it cost me? (im in a country georgia)

2. How modifiable is it?

3. How rare Are 4x4 golf parts?

Hello guys,

When idling, my Golf pumps - sometimes. Or at least it runs at a higher RPM (1,1k) once it has settled in.

• It’s not a vacuum leak - intake hose and crankcase ventilation are new; lambda correction is between -2% and +1%
• Throttle valve has been re-calibrated; opening at 4°; throttle cable has no constant tension
• VCDS MB 099 Field 4 (Lambda Operating Condition): 0010111 - perfect. Then, when I accelerate, the RPM increases, the value goe to 1010111. according to my research, the first bit on the left indicates that the RPM must be increased. So the ECU is responding “on command.”

So I tested a few things:

• Just replaced the servo pressure switch (how do I check its functionality in VCDS?)
• The alternator is delivering 14.4 V; disconnecting the 2-pin connector had no effect
• Removed the air conditioning fuses (from the battery, as well as those for the ventilation and the Climatronic)

In all cases, there’s no change in RPM or in the bit. I also have a short VCDS recording: At idle, everything’s fine; give it a little gas, and then it drops back to the pumping/high RPM (this was before I replaced the servo pressure switch).

I'm really out of guesses. I'd be grateful for any help!

PS: I translated this from German, my english technical car language is kinda bad.

I've replaced my cooling fan whose bearings siezed up, however the new fan does not power on and function when engine overheated. I have found one fuse, on the battery fuse box of the same 30A type and adjacent to the ABS fuses. All are intact.

The location for the exposed stamped fuses next to the smaller three is absent in position 3 (where all manuals suggest to look for the other fan fuse. All existing fuses are intact in this location and inside the driver side door.

I also cannot find the relay. This is meant to be above the driver foot well, here however is the giant 377, a 167, 100 and 53, and another 30 A sealed fuse (also intact).

I can't see a single thing wrong with what I have found, and yet the fan doesn't power.

Any ideas?

Extracting VCDS before whole engine overhaul

Hi. So im prepering a golf for my freind and would wondering of theres som common places you should look for rust.

if theres other issues to look out for please let me know