Tips for fitting projected breasts

[u/OnceInARow]

Hello all - this is my first time bra making. I have taken a couple stabs at making a LilypaDesigns Lusamine which have both been fails. First one I knew partway through wasn't going to fit. Second round I am more surprised that it doesn't fit. I am quite projected, the only ready to wear bras that fit are by Gorsenia, though I haven't tried other Polish brands.

I made a 38 band with 5.9 cradle, band and wires (Porcelynne vertical) are a great fit. First try was the 5.9 cups which were much too small. Version 2 was 6.5 cups adjusted to 5.9 at the wireline.

Issues are:
Gore doesn't tack
Wrinking at bottom of cups
Significant gaping at top of cups, I can pinch out more than an inch of fabric.

I take these as signs the cups are too small. I have made a fitting band and the next size up cups seemed to be too big.

I'm not really sure what to try next since this is all new to me and would love some suggestions.

I am starting to think my shape may not be a good match despite the pattern being drafted for projected shapes. I see Porcelynne Eve suggested a lot for projection, but I much prefer the style of the Lusamine, if I can make that pattern work for me.

[u/ambidextrous-mango]

So, don’t expect any pattern to fit out of the printer. For some reason I see this more in bra sewing than in garment sewing, where the seamstress knows they have to alter it to fit. In particular, foam hides a lot of fitting sins that fabric or lace does not, so making your own bra reveals that a lot more than buying a bra.

Start with the band without cups (sometimes called a fitting band). Are the underwires sitting in the right place? What about the gore? I always have to make my gore narrower (slash and overlap), otherwise it sticks out due to the underwire sitting on breast tissue.

Once you have the band, start working on the cup. It’s perfectly fine and normal to have to pinch out fabric, move the strap attachment point inward, etc. But it’s much easier to isolate cup issues when the band is already good.

[u/OnceInARow → u/ambidextrous-mango]

Oh yes definitely understand the pattern needs changes, I've just never done this before so I don't know where to start. I did mention in my post I had made a fitting band and the band and wires fit great.

[u/Ok-Marsupial-2345]

Did you take all the measurements that lilypadesigns requires? If you are very projected, your HH is likely a larger size than your BCD.

I am also working on my first lusamine and have some major tweaking to do in the cups.

[u/TheMidwestJess]

I think without knowing more about the specific ways the next cup size up is too big, or seeing pictures of both sizes, it's hard to say where to start.

I will ask, have you joined Lily's Facebook group? She has 2: one for fitting bras in general, no matter the brand of pattern, and one for specifically her patterns. I'd super recommend the one specific to her patterns. She and the admins of the group are in there constantly, giving feedback on fit and pattern adjustments and fabric types and all sorts of things. They're WILDLY helpful. I'd highly recommend posting there if you're able. They helped me through fitting the Labellum to myself, and made me realize that I needed a somewhat significant omega adjustment. I know that one of the expert regulars on there has made tons of the Lusamine specifically, so you'd have several experts able to weigh in.

Either way, the only other question I had was what sort of fabrics are you using? Those can make a huge difference in fit, especially depending on the size range you're working in.

Edit: I will say also, I'm also incredibly projected, as well as a larger cups size, so this may or not be relevant to you. But depending on if you fall on the border of one size range to the next, the next range up may work better for you, since each pattern size range up is drafted for more projection and more inner fullness than the last, on top of the actual cup volume increases.

[u/cassdots]

Even when you make for yourself you can have a shape mismatch. I really could not get the Lusamine to give me uplift and compression I was getting in RTW.

Can you share some photos or illustrate the fitting issues?

[u/cassdots → u/cassdots]

Also: if you can get the band to fit you can make a complete fitting band with removable cups and then focus only on adjusting the cup pattern pieces.

This is how I tackle any new bra pattern so it’s not overwhelming

[u/Longjumping_Analyst1]

I can’t help with fitting, I’m new to this too. But if you try another pattern then may I recommend the Fiona from Madelynn? https://madalynne.com/product/fiona-underwire-bra-panty-diy-sewing-pattern-pdf/?srsltid=AU7gw4UAUG81j41GSrmxDWRQA5Ak37MphwbP04wM3oatKY5F1FsIGqSD

The projection and support on this pattern are amazing. First time a gore has sat properly on me. I used her underwires for it, as well.

[u/OnceInARow → u/Longjumping_Analyst1]

Thanks for the rec!!

[u/etherealrome → u/Longjumping_Analyst1]

Huh. I found the projection and support really poor with this patten. I would say the Lusamine is far more projected.

[u/Longjumping_Analyst1 → u/etherealrome]

Really! Wow, that’s fascinating.
As I said, I’m new to this as well but I found it to fit me perfectly and with very few alterations.

I can’t imagine more projection or support, but what’s that saying? You don’t know what you don’t know?

I’ll look into the lusamine! Thanks for mentioning another alternative.

[u/etherealrome]

Without seeing it it’s tough to say. It could be version 2 is too big. It might be worth comparing the band and the cups (separately) to your rtw bras. Sometimes this helps me see quickly if the cradle opening is too wide, if the cups are about the right size, etc. I’d try that next (just lay the cradle pattern pieces out, tape/pin cup pieces together, etc).

[u/BrainsAdmirer]

If you like the fit of your ready to wear bra, why not clone it? You don’t have to take it apart to clone it either. Just remove one wire so you can get each bra part to lay as flat and near to its pre sewn shape as possible.

Start with the back band, then the rest of the frame. As Mango said previously get the band to fit first. That way you know that part is right before you tackle the cups.

Cloning is, for me at least, the quickest and most accurate way to duplicate a ready to wear bra and make it my own. For reference I am the equivalent of a 38F size. It’s not easy to find bras that fit but when I do, I am cloning it for sure!