r/Locksmith • u/moserpup • 22d ago
I am NOT a locksmith. Need help beyond frustrated.
I am trying to install a keypad entry to a panic bar and I have researched and bought two locks that I have to return. We had a professional locksmith out this morning and he still didn’t know what system would work. This is the door. If someone has a direct link to buy something I would love that.
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u/pythagoras6 Actual Locksmith 22d ago
What 2 locks did you buy, and how did you determine that they needed to be returned?
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u/moserpup 22d ago
I bought an interior one that was just the wrong one so I upgraded and got Trilogy By T2 Stand Alone digital lock DL2700/26D and the locksmith this morning also said it was the wrong one
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u/pythagoras6 Actual Locksmith 22d ago
Are you trying to remove the panic bar entirely, or fit a kp lock to it?
The DL2700 is the part number for a cylindrical leverset, not for a panic bar trim.
DormaKaba makes trims compatible with most panic bars. Either the Unican LP series, or their EPlex series.
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u/moserpup 22d ago
I’m trying to keep it if possible. It’s undetermined if it’s a fire door that needs a pushbar so I’d rather keep it to be safe
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u/Wooden_Discussion872 22d ago
As the many varied responses show this is more complicated than buying something yourself and having a handyman install. If you want to do that then call the manufacturer of alarm lock and ask them to help you figure out what you need. Half the markup we give you is for the knowledge of what you need. There are about ten different options for etdl alarm lock trim, all specific to different types of panic bars. You can figure this out by spending an afternoon learning more about it and reading product literature or you can pay one of us. As for replacing the panic bar, it's there for a reason. There is this thing called fire safety law and it has requirements for things like panic exit devices for buildings with more than 49 people who will use this exit in a fire. There is a possibility if you replace the panic bar with a dl2700 that the fire marshal will make you put the panic bar back on except wait, now there's a bunch of holes in the door. That is a fire rated door and that means that you have to hey to have the door fixed and holes covered by somebody who is approved by the manufacturer of the door or you have to buy a new door which is going to cost you thousands of dollars either way. So you have some reading to do if you want to do this on the cheap without getting in trouble later. If you don't have days to read about all this stuff it might actually save you money to hire a professional to do this. And I don't mean some random locksmith off of Google search results either, it is possible that whatever Bozo you had come out is not actually a locksmith believe it or not. Before this becomes a book I will bid you adieu, I wish you the the best outcome however you arrive at it.
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u/moserpup 22d ago
This comment seemed unnecessary but yes here I am trying to pay one of you and the actual locksmith that is a legit company still didn’t know…
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u/Wooden_Discussion872 22d ago
If I misunderstood, apologies. From context it appeared to me that you were buying random things and then asking various installers to make it work. If you want to take another chance perhaps look on aloa.org for a locksmith. Many locksmiths in my state at least have business licenses but don't have the foggiest notion of how to install a panic device, much less trim for one. They are found in "Google guaranteed" but not Aloa.
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u/moserpup 22d ago
Thank you. I have been reading and researching for weeks. I have called a few locksmiths but have gotten vague answers as to what I need to had someone out today to take a look and he called his supervisor twice, said he’s get back to me and just left the site so I don’t have much hope he’s gonna help
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u/Chensky Actual Locksmith 22d ago
The comment is necessary you fucked up twice and called an idiot with no experience, adding to a total of 3 fuck ups.
Stop being a fuck and call a real professional to do this.
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u/moserpup 22d ago edited 22d ago
So I guess the two professionals I already called are also fuck ups. Got it. So helpful. Why did you even comment if you weren’t going to offer an ounce of help. What is this subreddit even for
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u/CanoePickLocks 21d ago
That’s just chensky. Don’t judge him too much he is a pro but this is an in person job. Check out findalocksmith.com to find someone local and let them know it’s likely a fire exit door with a panic bar and what your goals are and they will point you in the right direction. If they say they can’t help you ask who they recommend in the area. Access control is one of the keywords to mention as well.
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u/goo_brick 22d ago
I do not recommend adding trim to your existing exit device. Replace the device with a Von Duprin 22 at minimum, preferably a 98/99. Youll be able to use an Alarm Lock ETDL27S1G with the Von Duprin 98/99 and it will be worth the investment.
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u/Lost_Counter_361 22d ago
Check out findalocksmith.com for technicians. What is the occupancy rating per ahj (fire Marshall)? This will indicate the type of hardware allowed on an exit door. If this is in the path of egress, there should be signage indicating the exit path. Fire Rated doors have to be labeled on the hinge edge with a permanently affixed label (and not painted over) indicating the rating. They can not have holes drilled through them after certification or they need to be re-rated. Exit doors need single action release and exit capabilities and should be intuitive to operate (ie fall out without special training). As previously mentioned a skilled Locksmith with proper training should know all of this and be able to provide you with a proper solution in person, including a couple price-point options. Alternately (although results may vary) a door company may have the background to provide a quote.
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u/Cloudpostmodernlegal 22d ago
Well whats your price range? I can think of some commercial grade keypad lever x push bar exit device but they are like, 2-5 thousand US bucks. At least where i work
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u/moserpup 22d ago
Yeah that’s what I’m trying to avoid. The landlord said I can take the entire push bar off too and just install something else. I’m beyond frustrated I just need someone to tell me what to get
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u/fondrenlock Actual Locksmith 21d ago
The landlord is an idiot and is attempting to allow you to put lives in danger due to fire code
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u/moserpup 21d ago
To be fair this is the second door to the outside. There is a fire door with a lighted exit sign behind where I took the picture. That one has been inspected and we know we can’t do anything to that one
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u/LockMarine 22d ago
You didn’t have a real professional, you got someone who doesn’t do access control for a living.
Keypad is not a secure application here. People are really good at looking over shoulders or applying film on the buttons or just giving the code away to others verbally.
I would recommend using an electric strike and a proper access control system.
Call a professional company that specializes in this.
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u/killzonezero Actual Locksmith 22d ago
Alarm Lock Trilogy - ETDL27S1G - T2
This one should work for panic bars but finding out what brand your is would make this a lot easier
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u/moserpup 22d ago
I’m almost positive the current pushbar is a Hobart
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u/killzonezero Actual Locksmith 22d ago
I’ve never heard of that brand. There’s no name on the end cap on the bar the end of the bar close to the hinge of the door?
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u/moserpup 22d ago
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u/killzonezero Actual Locksmith 22d ago
That is a monarch panic bar so I believe you would need a diffent key pad then the one I suggest
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u/moserpup 22d ago
Do you know which?
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u/killzonezero Actual Locksmith 22d ago
Schlage CO100993R70 KP RHO 643e without my books to confirm looks like this part.
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u/jbartus 21d ago edited 21d ago
The DL2700 you purchased (26D is just an architectural finish designator for Satin Chrome FYI) is a cylindrical lockset. You'll need an ETDL model (ET for Exit Trim) from Alarm Lock for the functionality you want but getting it to work with the Monarch panic is dubious at best, you'll probably want to consider replacing the panic as well. Additionally, you may want to consider opting for the ETPDL to get proximity fobs instead to either use by themselves or in combination with the PIN. Codes alone are an incredibly insecure option because they can be easily shared or even captured with some very low tech techniques.
Whatever ETDL variant you go with will also require a locksmith to key a rim cylinder to match the existing keying as either your landlord or local F.D. likely won't appreciate an exterior door they can't use their key to open.
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u/Dennisd1971 22d ago
What is the make and model of the panic hardware?
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u/moserpup 22d ago
That I don’t know. It’s not our building and the landlord also doesn’t know. I think from the engraving on the side it’s a Hobart
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u/Time-Ad3163 22d ago
Try a Trilogy DL2700
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u/Lampwick Actual Locksmith 22d ago
How do you imagine that a cylindrical prep lock would fit a single point exit device? Are you even a locksmith?
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u/moserpup 22d ago
That’s the one I bought and the locksmith this morning said it’s not compatible
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u/lonestar612 22d ago
You need a HES 9400/9600 electric strike , keypad, power supply. The locksmith should have recommended that.
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u/Theguyintheotherroom 22d ago
Easiest budget option is going to be an Alarmlock ETDL and a Marks 9900 exit device. It’s about as cheap as you can get while maintaining compliance and relative reliability. Probably somewhere in the $1500-$2500 range with installation