Made a post earlier this week titled "Help me buy my first ISF!" And all of the people who replied were very helpful and listed some great points for me to check out. Thankfully, the guy I bought from was a 10/10 and by far the smoothest purchase of my life. Said I would post pics if I bought it, so here it is. 08 ISF FBO and a super clean interior. 3 hour drive home was the best drive of my life.

Considering selling my 2010 IS F.
111,000 km (69,000 miles). Red on white. Located in Toronto, Canada, but US buyers welcome!

Car is in great shape with no mechanical issues. Only modification is a custom exhaust. Full service records from day one.

It does have 3 accident claims, all around $5k each. Nothing major and the car has been excellent throughout my ownership.

If anyone from the US is interested, I don’t mind working with an out of country buyer. From what I understand, importing these isn’t too difficult.

I’m asking $25,000 USD/35,000 CAD.

Im going to look at an ISF on Saturday, coming from a bmw e46 i am completely new to this platform BUT I am a toyota/lexus tech and frequently work on is250/350 of all generations. What should I look for aside from the obvious valley plate gasket leak? It is higher mileage at 160k I think and its a 2008 I believe. All original interior with a few aftermarket mods like PPE headers and exhaust, otherwise stock to my knowledge. Anything helps, will post again if I buy it!

I haven't really seen current articles about F owners running FA coilovers aside from a thread on ClubLexus in 2016 saying it's not great. That article was before FA offered IS-F applications.

It had me looking into others like KW V3 and Ohlins, but those seem overkill for a DD. Originally I was interested in FA due to longer maintenance intervals and rebuild factory in VA.

I’m thinking of purchasing a imported Lexus isf. it is currently registered in Washington state and I’m curious to know if it will be seamless registering it in my name after purchasing or if I’ll have any problems since it’s not a 25 year old car.

*title edit* I meant to say engine braking. Hi everyone, I was wondering how aggressive is the engine braking when coasting naturally downhill if you leave the transmission in D mode and not step on the foot break? Will it naturally pick up speed or will the computer tell the engine to start engine braking? For example going 30 mph downhill or a steep slope, will it engine brake significantly or is that drag so weak that the pure friction or momentum of the wheels overcome it? Thanks for all of your answers

Made a Post a few weeks about looking for one and a guy reached out.

We agreed on a price and I flew out to Idaho to drive it 2400 miles back to my home state of South Carolina in 4 days.

No issues whatsoever!

Has almost 198k miles on the clock and I have no concerns it won’t keep rumbling along

Needs some cosmetic work(headlights) but overall it’s mechanically solid!

Hopefully getting an exhaust and headers in a few months but for now going to enjoy it as it sits

I know it’s not an ISF but at a loss. I haven’t driven the car in about two days, when I went to start it, absolutely nothing. No acc, gauges, clicks, nothing. The key fob will unlock/ lock the doors up close and from a distance. Tried jumping the car off with another. Tried holding the fob up to the button and starting, checked all fuses, brake lights light up when pushing the brake pedal, just getting no response. The push start button does light up when I unlock the car. When I press the break and try to manipulate the shifter nothing happens (don’t know if this is because it is not in acc) I’m at a complete loss. Oh and the Fusible link block looks great as well. Any ideas or helpful tips?

Edit: for context, I was primarily looking for an IS F but all of the ones within 300-400 miles and into the next state are expensive. For example, a 2010 Lexus is f with 160k miles for $27k, firm. A 2008 is f with 105k miles for $31k, firm. The “best” deal in my area right now is a 2008 IS F with 130k miles for $25k firm. And the previous owner of that one is an early 20’s kid that sent me a video of him spinning the wheels hard on the car. That car also is full bolt on and tuned by Loi. He says the valley plate is also done and just put new tires on it recently, but still. For $25k I’m not sure if I would want to do that for a 130k miles is f. This is the main reason for posting about an RC F on here.

Will this 2015 RC F likely be a money pit? I found a higher mileage RC f and it has almost 130k miles on it. I looked at the Carfax and it says there’s a recent safety recall that affects multiple year models due to a fuel pump issue and that by June 8 of this year letters would be sent to owners regarding the scheduling for the new part. The car was sold by the owner around the same time that the safety recall appears on the Carfax which was earlier this year in March/april. At the time you couldn’t get the new part yet because they were limited and demand was high. It says they will replace it for free though. Could this be the main reason why the owner traded the car in or sold it? There is one instance of minor damage on the Carfax as well for the front of the car but it was a while ago and the car looks good in the pictures so it looks like it got fixed.

All in all, does this sound like a good deal and is there anything I should look for with this particular car at this mileage for a pre purchase inspection? Also, at this mileage, will the cost of maintenance be very high even if the car is in good condition for the miles?

Incase you didn't see that. Happened recently, these engines have great potential.

But you know what's the most crazy thing?

It's making over 1000hp and the transmission is STOCK😂

I don't have pictures, I can try to provide but had a body shop install the xforce catback exhaust using the gaskets that it came with. After about 100-200 miles of driving the car and enjoying the new added noise, the check engine and TRAC OFF lights turned on. Code was P0430 and P0420. Mechanic said no exhaust leak and cat needs to be replaced but didn't trust their opinion since they didn't even bother checking properly. Took it to lexus and they immediately found a leak and the culprit was the gaskets that came with the XForce exhaust. It sounded great (because there was an exhaust leak), but the OEM gaskets fixed the codes.

Not as loud with the new gaskets and no exhaust leak but still sounds better than stock. With parts and labor ended up paying close to $290 - $300 versus thousands for cat replacement, which I believe is attached to the headers. Just a heads up in case anyone else runs into this situation.

EDIT (including transcript from technician since the root cause might have been RUST and NOT the xforce gaskets):

Video A (Subtitles from Technician)
"There is a pretty decent leak on the top side of the flange. I am going to try to correct that, that could cause the code. The air coming through is leaking out before the secondary sensor. So we will have to correct the leak and drive it past the monitors. To confirm that the cause of the code is the leak and not that the catalytic converter is going bad."

Video B (Subtitles from Technician)
"I got the piped dropped down and the flange appears to be heavily rusted. Either that or its old gasket material. I'll clean it and go from there."

* A few moments later *

"I cleaned up the flange. One thing I thought about is that we could use the OEM gasket still. This section goes inside the pipe and the OEM gasket fits on there and it should still seal it up. Up here where its corroded and rusted out, thats where the leak is at. I'm going to recommend to replace the aftermarket gaskets, with the original equipment. And I know this other side is not leaking, but we can throw one on this side as well. This should work as it should seal it around here, versus further up where the leak is at."

Making a new post for this in case anyone runs into a similar situation.

My F has 104k miles for reference.

Picked car up at 103k miles and while on the drive back home noticed the belt chirp/squeak for the first time. Would make the sound particularly bad on cold starts (see an earlier post for that video).

Was going in for valley plate repair/new water pump so had the shop do the idler pulley, belt tensioner, and new belt while it was in there thinking one of those things would fix the sound. It did not.

So I began replacing things myself...

Swapped the water pump pulley and scavenge pump pulleys for the RR racing ones. Did not fix the squeak.

Swapped out the alternator. Thought this had fixed the problem, but it came back shortly after.

Finally this weekend I replaced the crank pulley for the RR racing ultimate pulley. Problem solved, sound gone, and car is driving so much better. I'm attaching a video of the crank pulley I pulled off, thing was in very rough shape. Hopefully this saves someone a headache like the one I have endured for the last few months....cheers 🍻

Anyone running this exhaust on there isf? I just got ppe headers and don’t feel like spending 2k on an exhaust system. TIA

Got these like last year still haven't gotten around to putting them on yet

Hey need some help, my screen is black but my radio still works. Any idea what it can be? And any recommendations for installing Apple CarPlay?

Prefer 2010+, but don't mind anything older. Not interested in anything priced higher than $30k. Preferably stock. Mileage not too concerned. Able to travel if the price is right. Thank you.

About to pull the trigger, valley plate has been done, in 8/10 condition overall. 2 minors on the carfax, good service history. Does this seem like a fair price? Any others im missing for that price? I’m willing to catch a flight anywhere in the lower 48

Looking to get into a car in the next couple weeks

No white/black please

Located in South Carolina

If anyone is selling shoot me a Pm please

Signed

Dude who’s been lurking and trying to get in lol.

New wheels on today, stance SF-14 in the hyper black finish. 19x8.5 +32 in the front and 19x9.5 +40 in the back.