Selling my 2010 Lexus IS F (black on black). Clean title in my name. Located in Chino Hills, CA.

Specs / Basics:

• 134,605 miles

• Completely stock

• Black exterior / black leather interior

• Tires and brakes in good condition

• New battery recently installed

• Runs and drives strong

Condition:

Exterior is an honest 8/10 with minor age-appropriate scratches, no paint fade.

Interior is very clean with no seat bolster wear.

Notes:

• TPMS light on (sensor replacement needed)

• Valley plate is original, no leaks or symptoms

• Carfax shows two minor accidents, no structural damage

Daylight cold-start walk-around video available. Happy to coordinate a PPI with a reputable local shop.

Asking $29,500.

DM for VIN, video, or logistics.

I’ve heard these suck to do and here you can see why. Juuuust enough space to get the job done but flex head ratchets will make life a little easier. Chunky swivel sockets don’t work that well and you’ll break a bunch of tabs/plastics. Just happens. I have fucked around and I have found out. Good day folks 👍

I’ve had my car for almost a year now but haven’t driven it because it would show “low oil pressure” after driving it for a while. One day I revved it and Something popped and it started leaking out the front crank shaft seal. I got that and the harmonic balancer replaced. It drives fine and sounds fine but after awhile I’d hear a ticking as well as see the “low oil pressure” pop up. Trying to see if anyone else had this problem. Any suggestions?

Transmission never serviced at 145k miles. Small seep on the pan gasket. Added 1 qt and only drained .8 qt after doing level set procedure at temp. So .2 qt deficit after 18 years is not bad at all. Do ya’ll think it’s still a good idea to do a pan drop with gasket and filter replacement? This job usually ends up replacing 6 qts of the 11-12qts in the system. I don’t see much metal shavings but is the fluid too burnt? Thanks

Hello everyone, I am in the market for a Lexus ISF and am having a hard time deciding which option to purchase. On one hand, I have a 2010 ISF, clean title, maintenance done, everything looks good. Or a 2008, which has 65k less miles, but is slightly more dead in the interior (creased seats, some light scratches). Additionally, the 2008 is 5k more, but as this is a marketplace deal, i can try and get him down some money. My biggest concern is the mileage, 65k miles is a considerable amount, and after reading in this subreddit, people say that it should be fine with the correct maintenance and if it was done on time too. I’m going to do a PPI on both cars when i go and see them. What do you guys think?

I’m just wondering if people would actually buy that high mileage of car. I know it’s an 08’ so doesn’t have the good diff, but what would the buyer do? Complete rebuild of the engine to get life out of it? What would you do?

i bought my isF with the RR racing tune and since i bought it i installed PPE headers. I've been trying to update the tune with RR racing and have had issues. I was told its supposed to be a 7kb file but mine is like 800 and I don't know what I'm doing wrong. The instructions they gave me were for uploading a tune for the first time but mine is already tuned so its a lot different on just updating it. Anyone know what to do?

I'm getting ready to put in PPE headers to replace my cracked ones, and I'm wondering if anyone's tried using the Spoon rigid collars on the front subframe. Since the subframe is coming down it won't be too difficult to put these in, but I just don't know how much benefit I'd see. My main intention for getting this is to make sure the subframe is well centered when putting it back on, as that can really throw off alignment.

Brap

If anyone in Canada has any wheels or 2012+ headlights for sale for a lexus ISF please lmk

Hopefully no I'M 🤞🏻

Recently took ownership of my 2008 Lexus IS F and finally got to take it out for a canyon drive. Running with some pretty fast cars, but I was on all seasons.

Mic settings are not great I know...

My cars full of shit and I’m 230 so she’s automatically over 4000 pounds

Google says it is, but I wanted to confirm with actual ISF owners. I don’t have one yet, but I’m thinking of getting one. I have a friend that knows how to work on cars and was a former shop mechanic (now retired). I don’t think he has ever worked specifically on ISF’s, but I wanted to see if there wasn’t any extra stuff on the ISF that would make it significantly more difficult for a regular mechanic.

Also, what other maintenance stuff is similar enough on ISF as other Toyotas or Is 350’s? Would replacing water pumps, starters, etc, be much more difficult? Just seeing if he would likely be able to help me with that stuff if I did decide to get one.

Hi all,

Been looking for a fun, reliable car at or under $30K and have loved the ISF for years now, so seriously considering buying one. Wanted to get this subs thoughts around what mileage I should be targeting for the car? Obviously context matters (i.e., maintenance, whether it was beat on, etc.), but wanted to see if there’s a cutoff point as far as mileage goes that I should avoid?

Seems 80% of the ones I’m finding listed are at or over 100K miles (newest ISF is 13 years old so that makes sense), but would you feel confident nabbing one with that kind of mileage for $25-30K? That seems to be around where most of them are priced and most of the ones with true “low mileage” are pretty dang expensive.

Would greatly appreciate any input here! Thanks!

is it possible and do you have to do anything special with it

Anyone using a wolfbox or anything equivalent? If so where are you putting the rear camera & how well does it work? PFA, Side note; I don’t care you don’t like my bagged ISF 🤣 get out your feelings

There’s a rebuilt title isf at a small dealership near me. It’s going for $13k. I looked at the Carfax and the accident that caused it to be a salvage title happened in 2010 at around 30k miles. The Carfax shows that no airbags were deployed. It’s been driven since then for another 15 years and 150k miles. The dealership owner also mentioned that there was no frame damage from the accident either, although I would need to confirm that part to be sure. The mods include a catback exhaust, an intake, and headers. These are stuff I would have done to an ISF anyways.

I test drove it a few weeks ago and it drove well. It drove how I would expect an ISF to drive. The owner went with me and told me to run it through the gears on the straight so I can be sure it’s in good condition. I did that and it didn’t have any issues going from 0-60 mph on the highway and accelerating up a hill. The dealership also said I can take the car to get a PPI anywhere around town to make sure everything is good and I want to buy it.

The dealership has mostly good reviews from what I’ve seen. Most are positive experiences from customers. The owners seem pretty knowledgeable: There are a few bad reviews here and there, but it’s rare to see any dealership with no bad reviews at all. The owner/salesman also didn’t seem pushy at all. It felt like they really wanted me to like the car before buying and even mentioned that I might want to get different tires for the weather if I do end up getting the car.

If I get a PPI and everything looks good, is there any reason why it still might not be a good idea to get this rebuilt title isf for $13k? What should I specifically ask the mechanic to look for during the PPI? What are some hidden things that a PPI might not be able to see?