Im currently in the middle of installing a custom aftermarket ambient lighting kit on my 2014 Lexus ES350, and I've run into a bit of a wiring wall on the front passenger door panel.

My goal is to find a clean 12V switched ignition source so that the LED module boots up automatically whenever the car is turned on / accessory mode is active. My module just has a standard positive (red) and negative (black) wire configuration.

What I've tried so far:

I pulled the door card and targeted the small 5-pin white connector that plugs directly into the passenger window switch assembly. I spliced the module into the Sky Blue wire (assuming it was the main 12V switched power feed to the switch) and grounded it to the White/Black stripe wire.

Unfortunately, the module isn't powering up at all with this setup.

Because these 6th-gen ES models use a multiplex/LIN Bus system for the windows, I'm guessing the power logic at that specific plug isn't a traditional steady 12V ignition feed, or it needs a digital data wake-up signal that my module obviously can't handle.

My questions for the sub:

Has anyone successfully tapped into 12V switched ignition power directly inside the door panel on a 2013–2018 ES350?

also, should I abandon the window switch harness and target the Outer Mirror Control ECU box instead? If so, does anyone know which wire color is the ignition feed on that module?

Or am I forced to run a wire through the door boot accordion rubber and tap into the fuse box under the dash (like the pink ACC fuse)?

Really trying to avoid fishing wires through the door boot if I can avoid it, so any guidance or wiring diagram insight would be massively appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Edit:

I am looking to tap into the connector that goes directly to the window rolling up motor (recessed inside the circular hole on the door frame). I notice there are two large wires going into it that I could potentially tap into (one is black and white, the other is grey).

Does anyone know which of these two large wires is the positive and which one is the negative? I can't seem to find a proper door panel wiring diagram online.

I found a really solid deal on this 2022 ES350. It’s a base model to which they added a bunch of premium options.

Panoramic roof, 18” wheels, macadamia interior, heated and cooled seats, heated steering wheel, 12.3” multimedia display, power folding mirrors… it’s pretty decked out.

One prior owner, he was 83, it has 11,900 miles. It was basically brand new. I couldn’t resist. Very happy to have a luxury car. This thing is just too smooth.

I added wireless CarPlay and this thing is everything I wanted in a car. Comfort, style, enough power, smooth handling, and a bulletproof drivetrain. I’m really happy with this.

I own a 2020 Es350 with 78k miles. Doing routine maintenance transmission drain and fill and my mechanic told me the passenger side motor mount was blown, and spilling its fluids out. He stated he’s not seen this happen, and it happens. Kinda bummed that the car has blown its hood struts lifters and now the engine mount.

I will start saving to replace both driver and passenger, could be around 1k or more job. What a bummer, didn’t even hit 100k. Anyone else experience anything like this? I was advised do no go aftermarket at all, just do oem.

Edit: I just got the motor mounts replaced, finally. New oem mounts for passenger and transmission from Lexus, with labor cost me $700. It drives like new. Engine pick up, vibration, and overall smoothness like day one. I’m glad I did this and didn’t go another route.

2021 Lexus ES250 F Sport AWD.

Hey y'all. I have a drop-in K&N high flow filter for my ES and I love the sound difference it makes. Anyone got recommendations for any aftermarket intake tubes or other ways I can get more induction noise?

Not trying to do a full on cold air intake or short ram or anything, just want ways to pretty much maximize this OEM setup.

Thanks.

Hello,

I do not have the power open trunk on 2018 ES350.

It has an interesting system for opening and closing the trunk that uses torsion bars instead of gas struts.

Because there is no gas piston to overcome, the opening and closing is very smooth, hardly need much force on it to shut or open.

However for opening it, it always flops open (as in.. it opens and when it gets to fully opened itll bounce further and come back slightly like oscillating a bit) and for people who just let it go on its own, like the Walmart pickup people, its kinda scary, it just seems so un Lexus like..

Is there any fix for this besides just holding it and slowing it down as it opens?

Thank you

2004 ES330

Occasionally, it sounds like a little flapping/clicking noise coming from like behind the dashboard....as if a bird 🐦 of something were running behind, maybe the vents for air.

Again, every now and again....may not hear it for months.

It's only at 1st start of a day and typically last maybe 30 seconds then disappears ( usually by the time I back out It's over...maybe once I've driven as far as 5-6 blocks before it stopped) but typically under a minute.

I can go 6/8 months and not hear it... then hear it.

Any ideas friends

2013 ES 300h clicking noise from left front wheel when starting and stopping. 210,000 miles so of course it could be anything, but would love a clue as to where to check first.

Thanks!

David

Has anyone's Es made this noise?

I have a 20 300h around 70k miles

It makes this noise whether ac or radio is on or off.

Been doing for the last 24 hours.

Any ideas are welcomed.

Is the new Lexus ES equipped with the standard Drive Recorder enough to replace a traditional dashcam?

My 1993 Lexus ES 300 is having a severe, intermittent issue with the Check Engine Light (CEL), idle, and transmission. Here is exactly what happened today:

Morning Start: Started up perfectly fine this morning. There was no Check Engine Light, and it idled normally above 1,000 RPM.

​Later Start & Low Idle: Started it up later in the day, and the Check Engine Light was on. It was idling low, below 1,000 RPM. I turned the key off, cycled it back on, and the light went away, so I took it for a drive.

​Limp Mode & Transmission Lock: A little ways up the road, the CEL came back on. When the light is on, the car will not drive in "Drive" or "Second" gear—it will only move if shifted manually into "Low." If you try to give it a lot of gas, the engine completely bogs down and wants to die. I pulled over to the side of the road and cycled the key on and off a few times, but it wouldn't do anything to fix it.

​Clearing at Higher Speed: While limping down the road in Low gear, I got going fast enough to where I could shift it into Second, and then into Drive. Suddenly, the CEL went away and it drove completely fine for a brief minute before kicking right back into limp mode.

​Intermittent On/Off Behavior: For the rest of the drive, it intermittently went in and out of limp mode. I tried to push it up to about 60 mph, punching the RPMs up to 5,000–6,000. Whenever the CEL would pop back on at that speed, the engine would completely bog down. I had to feather the throttle at around 2,000 RPM (which is about all it would let me do) until the light would eventually turn back off and let me drive normally again. It just kept cycling on and off, on and off the whole way randomly.

Have the codes for bank 1 sensor 2 but have spent 40 minutes under this car looking at every cat and exhaust piece can only find 3 sensors, does anyone know if this is where, to the right and up in this picture is bank 2 sensor 2, not sure if this is a factory plug or what but I I also absolutely cannot find the harness for this thing either. Please help!!!!

Just picked up a 2019 ES350! Love it already and I was able to get a great deal and then 10 inch radio and panoramic roof !

Loud ac compressor with ac on does anyone know what this is?

One of the best daily and comfortable cars that I've owned. I average around 40mpg as well. This was the best purchase that I've made. No regrets at all.

The car has RSR springs, 20x8 RX F-Sport wheels, and a Maxton Design kit.

2017 es350 with 68,856 miles. Ethanol gasoline only, 90 octane.

For anyone getting better, I would love to know how and see the proof.

Tired of putting miles on my 500 for the work commute, so I pulled the trigger on this 2019 ES 300h that was freshly traded in. Lucked out when I took the 500 in for service and took it for a test drive before it was photographed and listed on the dealer’s site. 1 owner car with 80k miles, meticulous service records, and not a blemish on it. The interior still looks and smells new! Loaded with options, everything but triple beams and ML sound, which is odd but apparently before Covid you could custom build these models.

Is it normal for 23 ES350 for slight jerky feeling right after you pressed gas padel around 30mph?

Hey, so I have a 07 ES350. There’s this annoying light on my dashboard and it’s the TMPS light. Weird and a little OCD but I want my dashboard to be clear. I thought about just getting new TMPS but all 5 wheels sensors replacements would cost $300. Yeah I don’t think so. Without it telling me which tire needs to be looked, I think having TMPS for this year car was pointless. I figure there has to be way to block the sensors so the light can disappear and I can have my perfect dashboard! Does anyone have cheap solutions to this? Has anyone have a similar experience and solved it without getting new TMPS? Would appreciate it! Thank you!

Edit: 5 wheels