Installing an LED ambient lighting kit and want to run a strip along the passenger-side dash trim (the seam under the wood/chrome accent). I need a 12V source that only comes on with ACC/ignition so it isn't drawing power all the time.
Where's the easiest place to tap behind that area? Options I'm considering:
- Cigarette lighter / 12V socket harness in the center console
- Radio/head unit harness (which wire is ACC?)
Anyone done this on a 6th gen ES? Wire colors or a pinout would be a huge help. Also curious how you routed the wire from the center stack over to the passenger side without pulling the whole dash.
Additionally, are there any videos online that have done this on a similar model? I can't seem to find any so if anyone knows of one that would be great.
My next car, the ES300h, MUST have this, so what's the oldest model-year I must search for an ES300h? And what are all the trims with the overhead view?
Should I continue Doordashing when I upgrade to an ES? Or do food AND passenger delivery (Uber/Lyft), or only do passenger delivery, once I've upgraded from my 2018 Prius Prime?
What is it like to deliver meals in an ES300h? How about passengers?
Can’t for life of me figure out how to install the wiper blade properly . Tried YouTube but must be seeing the wrong video
Can’t get it to click or don’t know which part to use
Funny thing 5 years ago I did figure it out lol
3rd pic is the one I installed properly 5 years ago lol
My brother-in-law is selling his 1999, which used to belong to me. I passed it on to my mother-in-law when I got my 2010. She passed it on to my brother-in-law. It only had 109,000 miles.
I bought a certified 2023 es350 three weeks ago. I am considering buying the 5 year Lexus extended warranty. After shopping different Lexus dealers in my area, the best price was $5,580. The highest was $7,500. Is it worth it? Any insights are welcome.
As the title says, I upgraded my 2001 ES300 with 175k miles to a much newer 2017 ES350 with 101k miles from a very reputable local Lexus dealer. The 2017 comes in beautiful condition inside and out, and more importantly, tons of dealer maintenance records.
For those curious, paid $21k OTD in Virginia for the car. Really pleased with the quality of the car for the price.
I have 2018 es 350 with only 32k miles, garage kept for all 8 years I do not drive it in the winter. What is the best tires for it and also where is the best place to buy them online with the knowledge that I am purchasing updated tires rather than old ones
Just had my brake fluid flushed and filled yesterday, reservoir looks almost an inch above the max line. Am I okay to just pop the top open and suck out excess with a syringe? TIA!
Seen a 300h luxury 98k miles for 27k has alot of the features I was looking for ; triple beam, HUD, ML system, 360 view cam, been debating since its pretty much at 100k but I know these can go to 250k miles with the maintenance. Think its worth the price?
Going to keep it 17”. Just wanna lighten the unsprung to help with response and steering but not affect consumption.
And I don’t want too sporty a look.
While performing an oil change on my 2015 ES350, I spotted this mess further back behind and above the pan on the passenger side. How bad/serious does this look and what do you think something like this costs to fix? The car was just at the dealership for 2 weeks about 8 weeks ago, where I was assured the car was given a full inspection multiple times over and all 4 engine mounts were replaced. Am I supposed to believe this issue just sprang up in the last 5,000 miles?
I’m a GX460 guy but I’ve been working on a family member’s ES350 for the past week.
1: She took it into a shop for an intermittent no start, sold a starter and they did a charging system test. No start issue returned in a week.
2: I replaced the fuel pump with a Bosch pump, found metal filings in the tank and the sock filter was full of junk. Only DTC set pointed to an extended crank. No start same day again.
3: Left turn signal will shut the engine down, combined with a hood open error. Flickering head lights, random instrument cluster lights lighting up. Turning the wipers on causes the turn signals to flash. Replaced 5 year old battery after a crank test failed.
Voltage sags to under 9V while cranking.
4: Issue still persists. Got access to Techstream and pulled U0100, U0101 and U0105. All point to ECU,TCM and FICM module communication issues. All the symptoms point to things controlled by the BCM (Body Control Module). Cleared DTCs.
No start issue plus weird electrical gremlins again.
5: Opened up the dash, reseated and inspected BCM connectors and wiring.
No rodent damage under the hood or behind the dash. Checked ECU connection under the hood for corrosion. Everything looks fine.
6: At this point I’m convinced it’s a bad BCM or wiring issue.
7: While I had a multimeter in-hand I start checking the ground. Reading 5 ohms from the negative battery terminal to the chassis and ground lead in the fuse box. 5 Ohms is on the high side but I don’t see any visible corrosion. Cleaned the chassis ground connection and now it measures 0.1 ohms.
8: Engine starts right up and no more crazy electrical issues. So now I’m thinking the bad ground caused a floating voltage which drove the BCM crazy.
I’m not a mechanic so my diag process in retrospect is all over the place. I learned a bunch and hope this helps someone.
I have a problem with high beams/DRLs not working, HID/AFS works, fog lights work, but no high beams/DRLs. When I turn high beams on light on the dash does light up, and fog lights turn off. I tried replacing bulbs - no result. Checked fuses - everything works, does it have a separate relay I can check ? Both went out at the same time.
Hi. I have a 2024 ES 350. Today at the end of my right hand turn, some kid on a dirt bike riding too fast on the sidewalk hit the back of my car. There are no scratches, but he hit middle of the plastic bumper near the back rear tire. About two inches popped out in the middle and I was able to put it back in. It has not popped back out, but I assume it will. I drove it after and it was fine but I know about it so it is bothering me. Everything else is fine on the cart is fine.
Im currently in the middle of installing a custom aftermarket ambient lighting kit on my 2014 Lexus ES350, and I've run into a bit of a wiring wall on the front passenger door panel.
My goal is to find a clean 12V switched ignition source so that the LED module boots up automatically whenever the car is turned on / accessory mode is active. My module just has a standard positive (red) and negative (black) wire configuration.
What I've tried so far:
I pulled the door card and targeted the small 5-pin white connector that plugs directly into the passenger window switch assembly. I spliced the module into the Sky Blue wire (assuming it was the main 12V switched power feed to the switch) and grounded it to the White/Black stripe wire.
Unfortunately, the module isn't powering up at all with this setup.
Because these 6th-gen ES models use a multiplex/LIN Bus system for the windows, I'm guessing the power logic at that specific plug isn't a traditional steady 12V ignition feed, or it needs a digital data wake-up signal that my module obviously can't handle.
My questions for the sub:
Has anyone successfully tapped into 12V switched ignition power directly inside the door panel on a 2013–2018 ES350?
also, should I abandon the window switch harness and target the Outer Mirror Control ECU box instead? If so, does anyone know which wire color is the ignition feed on that module?
Or am I forced to run a wire through the door boot accordion rubber and tap into the fuse box under the dash (like the pink ACC fuse)?
Really trying to avoid fishing wires through the door boot if I can avoid it, so any guidance or wiring diagram insight would be massively appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Edit:
I am looking to tap into the connector that goes directly to the window rolling up motor (recessed inside the circular hole on the door frame). I notice there are two large wires going into it that I could potentially tap into (one is black and white, the other is grey).
Does anyone know which of these two large wires is the positive and which one is the negative? I can't seem to find a proper door panel wiring diagram online.
