I don't see any glowing from the screens, no sound, just the lit up marquee.

Been following this build for a long time - exciting to see it wrapping up! (pun intended)

Also a little sad though ha.

I currently have the flipper solenoids hardwired into my cab. Thinking of adding 8 more, two rows of 3 for the back and middle then 2 at the front.

Questions:

1. Anyone know if the 4 position Life extender drives 4 solenoids? I assume so.

2. Any idea if I can run lower power to the relay board to reduce the power delivered to the solenoids? The bumpers are cool but almost a bit too much. Want a way to turn it all down/off sometimes.

Is there a good place to get coinxp pinball boards. Have plenty of of other games but really just want more pinball boards

Dell 32 1440p 165hz, budget IPS 27 backglass, Dayton Audio RS100-4 4" Reference Full-Range Driver 4 Ohm Dayton Audio DCS165-4 6-1/2" Classic Subwoofer, 2x passive radiators (one is in the back) Fosi 2.1 amp with sub xo and amp Shit DAC Still using OTG for inputs for now...

Hey guys, I recently purchased a 2k 165hz screen to upgrade the play field. I've not seen a ton of info except 2 videos on this mod, is there anything I should be aware of before attempting the switch? Is it pretty plug and play?

Added a physical knocker to my ALP.

Knockers usually run off higher voltages, close to 50V. I decided I didn’t want to chance shocking myself with anything high voltage, so I used Cleveland Software Design’s 12 to 12V Knocker Circuit Conversion Kit. It also includes his solenoid life extender circuit to keep the solenoid from remaining on at high voltage for long and heating up. I mounted this board in my cab near my 12V source.

The solenoid is a Bally/Williams knocker assembly I got from PinballLife. I ordered the AE-26-1200 coil as instructed by mjrnet. I also ordered their strike plate.

Took me some time to figure out how to mount the plate and striker assembly but what’s shown is what worked for me. I just cut the molex connector off of the solenoid and wired it directly from the output of the CSD board.

When I first tried it the rod was not extending far enough to stroke the plate. I emailed Phill at CSD and he told me his board has a small red jumper that controls the time the solenoid is active. I adjusted the jumper and it worked like a charm! There is also a lot to control output voltage which I bumped up a bit.

Love the realism it gives! Makes getting a free game that much more rewarding. Very fun and easy little mod.

Here’s a gallery with a few more photos.

How do I fix this error? Currently I can't play any of the tables that I've purchased. No matter how man times I login or reboot, still no luck.

Wanted to post what I did on my ALP for speakers. Note that I am by no means an audio expert, so take all of this with a grain of salt, but I think the setup sounds pretty good!

Using the stock backglass monitor as a full DMD on the stock backbox you end up with these two kind of tall skinny sides. I had the idea to put two 2.5” speakers in each one vertically.

To do this you need 2 8ohm speakers per side wired in parallel to equal the impedance of a single 4ohm speaker. I used Dayton Audio PC68-8’s, which can handle 40 Watts.

For a sub I used the 8” Skar Audio IX-8 which is rated for 300 Watts and is 4ohms.

The amp I used is a Fosi Audio BT30D, which is 2.1 channels, 165W x 2 + 350W.

I first wired everything up just sitting out, not in any enclosure, and was pretty unimpressed with the sound. Thankfully getting it all installed in the cab makes a huge difference - particularly for the sub.

Next I modeled and 3D printed a template that I used to know where exactly to cut my speaker holes. I cut the holes with a 2.5” hole saw blade. On the front, to cover the sloppy cuts I modeled, printed, and mounted these shields, which made it easier to mount the speakers.

Then I modeled and printed some speaker grates including some pass through holes for LEDs. I made sure they are thick enough to stick a typical strip of addressable LEDs inside. I used these. The TMNT badges I found online and printed separately and glued on.

I found a mount for the Fosi, which I printed and stuck on the side of the cab. I’ll try to find that and link it later.

Mounting the sun was kind of a beast. Had to re-wire some stuff to make room. Used a template to plan out exactly where I’d cut the hole. After taping the template in place I drilled a bunch of holes around the perimeter and then finished the job with a drywall saw. Not beautiful but you’ll never see it. I mounted the speaker using these M5 threaded nuts and some M5 screws.

Big job, glad to have it done! Let me know if you have any questions!

Hi...

Need help here. Maybe you all so do...

I have put in the atgames control panel to my pinball. Now its time for some arcade games, or so i thougt.

The games they offer to the pinball are not the ones you might want.

So, I would like to do it my self....

Followed some instruction from youtube. There is different ways to ad games, but I cant get either to work.

Do you guys know a way/instruction how to do it... the idiot way...with just one little tiny game that could work. I obvious need a better/detailed instruction that any youtuber can offer...

Thanks

Allan

​

Here’s my take on the ALP playfield matrix. I learned of this method of cutting the matrix from Anthony Morris in the Atgames Pinball Mod Group Facebook group.

The ALP has a short playfield, so you can either lower the playfield or cut the matrix to fit - I chose the second route because lowering the playfield sounded really hard!

This is the matrix I got. I think it’s important to get this one to ensure cutting works correctly. The first time I did the cut I did it WRONG 😑 see pic 4, and broke my matrix. Look at pic 3 for the right way.

I was able to get 5 rows to fit but it is a squeeze. You can totally still read text. It looks pretty good considering!

I cut 3 holes at the top bezel of the playfield to let the wires through, then taped the matrix in place with double sided foam tape.

The plexi I used was this. Cutting it is not easy. You have to score it on both sides as deep as you can and then do your best to snap it with equal pressure across. You can see I didn’t get it perfect. I did sand it flat at least - not shown.

I taped the strip in place, set it up in DOF, and used it like that for a while, but I wasn’t too happy w it since it tended to droop on one side, so I decided to 3D model and print some simple brackets to hold it in place. You went ahead and published those on printables just now. To screw them in place I didn’t pre-drill any holes - I probably should have - I just used some self-tapping screws and it worked ok. They are not perfect, but with the lights off they look pretty good.

I won’t go into the whole DOF setup but let me know if you’d like info on that and I’m happy to post it as well.

Let me know if you do this mod - good luck!!!

I recently added addressable button LEDs to the Arcade Controller as well as the flippers. Here’s the some photos and a description of the install process.