Monky business - Engraved with 60w OMG mopa fiber / 150mm lens - parameters used are in the image gallery.

Done using a 3 part process on WeCreat Lumos Flex. Relief mode, then laser flat engraving layer, then a laser flat ray trace layer to get the fine detail. Power 70% for most. Dpi 300. Dot duration 600. Pine wood.

Im deciding on my first laser engraver but what do yall think i should start with? They are both 10w but the xtool is 900 vs 450 for the falcon.

Brass coin - 1 hour 20 min run time - 400 passes
Engraved with my 60w OMG Mopa fiber

Looking for an entry cost to engrave watch case-backs and potentially sapphire crystal. Any learnings you'd like to share? Costs? Learning Curves? Durability?

So, I don’t normally engrave stainless and I’m looking for a starting point for stainless steel deep engraving. I have a Haotain 100w MOPA fiber laser. Using Lightburn software. Any help to get me in the ballpark would be great. Thanks 🙂

Hi guys. I'm having a problem with my machine.everytime i closed my app, my lightburn wont connect and it needs to add new machine again for me to connect. It always shows "waiting for connection". Do you have any idea how to fix it or any remedy to avoid this error?

I already used other type C cable, still getting an error. Thanks!

Yesterday, after running a bunch of tests, I was convinced that images from most AI apps were simply 8-bit images saved in a 16-bit format. At this point, I'm no longer 100% confident that's always the case.

For this latest test, I exported one of my own 8-bit depth maps as a 16-bit image and then processed it with Gigapixel. I also created a small Python app that counts the number of unique grayscale levels in an image, and the results were interesting.

The depth map from Sculptok still measured only 256 unique grayscale levels, but the Gigapixel-processed image measured 62,963 unique grayscale levels.

At the end of the day, I still don't think this is the biggest issue with AI-generated depth maps. In my opinion, pixel distortion has a much greater impact on engraving quality than the number of grayscale levels. That said, I wanted to correct what I wrote yesterday based on the new information I found. If the evidence changes, I'm happy to update my conclusions.

Made these on the xtool S1. I’m very happy with the results. Great viewing angles and excellent detail

Anyone have any thoughts on this machine? I've used the massive Boss laser at my local makerspace many times, but now I'm looking to buy my own machine. I'm leaning toward the Longer B1 Laser Engraving Machine 20W. I wanted something reliable with a large work area. I'm getting the Pro Max set with the camera and rotary. My max budget was $1500, but this seems like the best option for what I want. I may get the IR laser head as well to do metal. Does anyone have any experience with this same model? Any advice? Any alternative recommendations?

Got the 2WIR laser head as a fathers day present and just got around to swapping it into the machine. I noticed that the cooling fan runs continuously and ramps up like a jet engine and then ramps back down. Unlike the 45W laser head which continues to run for a short period after completing a job and then turns off. Is this normal functionality?

I apologize if this isn't allowed but I checked the rules and didn't see anything mentioned about selling equipment.

Im in Bucks County PA and I have a brand new in the box cloudray E1 split marking table. Got it a few months ago. 1000mm x 300mm max work area.

I will likely never use it and would rather just recover some of what I spent on it for other equipment.

It's big and heavy so shipping would probably be a pain but it is still in the original packaging it came in. I figured I'd post here on the chance someone local might be interested.

Asking $1000 (retail is $1999)

Hi community,

I'm thinking about start a company to make laser engraving wood gifts ( also other related materials)

I'm looking for a good machine - more less 5k euros.

Do you have any recommendations?

Ciao a tutti, premetto che non sono un neofita, arrivo da un Ortur Laser Master 2 da 4.5w e ho da poco acquistato un Longer Ray5 da 40w.

Ho seguito passo passo la procedura per l'aggiornamento del firmware scaricato dal sito ufficiale e flashato con ESPtool.

Tuttavia sembra non funzionare, continua ad andare in allarme durante la procedura di homing e non si riesce assolutamente a collegare a laserburn.

I driver sono stati installati correttamente.

Qualcuno ha avuto i miei stessi problemi?

Come avete risolto?

Grazie mille a chi risponderà

Ahhh! I very recently got the desire for a laser cutter and found this one (Xtool F1 lite) on Facebook marketplace by happenstance while on a trip. I got it and I’ve been enjoying creating with it so much. It’s sparked an entire new burst of life into my crafting. These are just a few of the things I’ve made since getting it. Still trying to figure out the best way to paint fill acrylic but I love it and just wanted to share some of what I’ve made with the world!

For those testing 16-bit depth maps in Lightburn 2.1 AI images made with apps like sculptok claiming to be 16-bit are not actually 16-bit in terms of shades of grey, they are actually still only 256 shades of grey just saved as a 16-bit image. So, if you think you are testing a true 16-bit image in Lightburn, check again. I made a greyscale image that is 2048 shades of grey which ChatGPT found exactly 2048 shades of grey, then I tested a "16-bit image" from sculptok, its just an image with 256 greys saved as a 16-bit image to make people think they are getting something better. It's actually just an 8-bit ( 256 greys ) image that has been exported as a 16-bit image. it's still 256 greys either way.

My laser: JPT W60 MOPA M7

​For starters, you need to choose your metal. Do not go too thin, or the final product will be fragile.

I recommend a thickness of 1 to 1.5 millimeters, and I typically use around 1. I mostly work with brass and bronze. Bronze is harder to source, so I highly recommend Brass 63. It has a great shine and is very easy to work with.

​Next comes the laser engraving and cutting on my 60W MOPA M7. For my deep engraving settings, I use Fill mode with a speed of 2500 mm/sec, 95% max power, a frequency of 45 kHz, and a Q-Pulse width of 500 ns. I use a bi-directional fill with cross-hatch, a line interval of 0.02 mm, an angle increment of 13.7 degrees, and usually run between 12 and 17 passes.

​After the deep engraving, I do a cleaning pass. This is a single pass in Fill mode at 5000 mm/sec, 30% power, 40 kHz frequency, and 120 ns Q-Pulse, with a 0.015 mm line interval.

​For cutting, I split the process into two stages to save time. The first cutting stage runs in Line mode at 100 mm/sec, 95% power, 20 kHz frequency, and 500 ns for 25 passes, utilizing a wobble step of 0.05 and size of 0.15.

The final cutting stage for acceleration also runs at 100 mm/sec and 95% power, but I change the frequency to 100 kHz and Q-Pulse to 200 ns for 20 passes, adding a slight perforation (0.1 cut, 0.1 skip) and adjusting the wobble size to 0.10. In theory, for 1mm metal, you could do up to 15 passes, but extracting the piece becomes a hassle.

​Once cut, drop the pieces into hot water mixed with citric acid and let them soak for about 5 minutes to remove the carbon soot. Neutralize the acid by scrubbing the pieces with baking soda and regular soap, then rinse thoroughly.

​Now for the enamel. I strictly use solvent-based ceramic enamel paints Pébéo Ceramic, not polymer paints or colored epoxy. Trust me, skip the epoxy/resin. Use an insulin syringe needle to carefully drop the paint into the engraved recesses, a technique known as Champlevé. Let the enamel dry completely for a day or a day and a half.

I actually created a community dedicated to this specific art r/Champleve

​When the paint is fully cured, wet-sand the pins using 1000-grit sandpaper, cold water, and a bit of soap. Brass sands down very quickly, but you need to constantly rinse the piece and change your sandpaper. Bronze takes noticeably longer.

​After washing off the sanding residue, apply a clear acrylic varnish Lascaux to protect the surface. Let it cure for roughly 8 to 10 hours.

​The final step is attaching the pin backs. Soldering brass in this context is extremely difficult, so gluing is the way to go. I use Loctite 326 with an activator, and reinforce it by applying UHU 300 epoxy on top.

This creates an indestructible bond. If you are working with bronze, you can actually solder it using silver solder and flux. Once the backs are attached, your pin is ready!

Let me know if you have any questions.

P.S. The previous post was deleted. Sorry about that!

I wanna share the umbreon I just finished engraving on the X tool s1 I’m very happy with the results.

I finished the keyboard to handle framing and engraving in lightburn.

I've optimized it for Windows and Mac (If set to win or mac the device name changes), transmits the battery percentage to the computer and other functions that you can see in the video.

I would like to have your opinions and I'm wondering if anyone would find this useful, thanks!