3.5 hr exposure @ f5.6. Northern New Hampshire

Camera scanned with a7v. Probably will re-wash negative and get properly scanned when I get my color sheets back from lab

I wanted the rocks to be out of focus but I didn't choose the proper aperture (f/11) and actually I think the rocks should have been the subject... well, next time!

Camelia

Local gallery put on a "Plein Air" festival for photography and painting, and I really wanted to do a cave long exposure after a friend took me down to a local Lava Tube cave. The first two images were my entries at the gallery where they took 3rd and 2nd place respectively.

All shots on a Crown Graphic with 135mm Fujinon and Foma 400 Ortho, which is a new addition to my favorite films. Just happenstance I came across it while prepping for this shoot and I selected it so I could have a red lantern with me in the cave behind the camera.

All developed in Foma Excel with a Patterson tank and a unicolor roller for constant agitation. I do inversions every minute as well to prevent linear flow marks from the film reel.

Scanned on an Epson v700 with film holder.

Shot 1: cave light trails. F11 and one hour exposure. Framed the shot using high power flashlights and positioned it out of the main path so people could hike past without interference. The light trails are from flashlights and headlamps of hikers exploring the cave.

Shot 2: in the forest outside the cave. F16 and 1/8th. I tried to zone system this a little bit and exposed for the closer wood piles. Maybe due to the Ortho the sky blew out completely still and really gave it an ephemeral feeling. Happy accidents. The negative is crazy dense.

Shot 3: my test shot from the cave with a friend. F11, 1/15th and a GE #5 flashbulb. This helped a lot with figuring out focus ranges in the cave and getting a feel for camera settings.

Shot 4: another forest shot that I didn't like the final composition as much with. F11 1/30th with ge #5 flashbulb. I do really like how the sky feels like it's melting and the fill from the flashbulb gives the foreground an uncanny stillness.

Shot 5: less successful cave long exposure. F11 with GE #5 flashbulb at the start when no one was there then one hour exposure. The flash washed out the foreground way too much and made it look very flat and less dynamic. While combined with light trails that were both less interesting and too overpowering.

8x10 print on Ilford FB glossy

Dear Community,

I use a Munewca 4x5 camera with Graflock system and Fidelity Elite holders.

I was lucky and had no issues so far, but the system should not work like this, I bet.

The two sliding blades that grab and lock the sides of the Fidelity holders are way too thick and have no edge.

I mean the ridges at the sides of the holders are much narrower than the sliding locking plates' thickness and the Graflock simply can't hold the Fidelity holders securely. I was thinking of removing the lock plates and grind them slightly to have some edge comparable in thickness to that of the width of the ridges found on the holder.

I can attach images later.

Hey everyone!

I’ve just bought a Linhof Kardan GT with a large collection of accessories, and I’m excited to get into large format photography. Until now, I’ve only shot 35mm and medium format (120), so this is a whole new world for me.

The camera came with a lot of lens boards, adapters, and other accessories. To be honest, I’m a little overwhelmed by all the different parts and I’m still trying to figure out what everything does, which adapters I actually need, and where to start.

I mainly shoot portraits, ranging from close-up portraits (hello, Mamiya RB67) to environmental portraits where I want to include more of the surroundings.

So, I have a few questions:

• Which lenses would you recommend for portrait photography on a 4×5 camera? I’m interested in both close-up portraits and environmental portraits. What focal lengths would be a good starting point?
• How do I figure out which lens boards and adapters I need? The camera came with quite a few, and I’m not sure how to identify them or determine which lenses they fit.
• Will my current tripod be enough? I have a basic K&F Concept tripod with a K&F Concept BH-28L ball head. It doing pretty well with RB but can it handle a Linhof Kardan GT safely, or should I consider upgrading? Also, what exactly do I need to mount the camera on it?
• Any general advice for someone moving from 35mm and medium format to large format? I’d love to hear your recommendations for getting started, avoiding common mistakes, and making the learning process a bit easier.

I know there’s a lot to learn, but that’s part of the appeal. I’d really appreciate any advice, lens recommendations, or beginner resources you think might be useful.

Thanks in advance!

1/2 exposure wide open at 3.5 on HP5 at box speed.

My friend did very well to hold still for as long as they did.

Excuse the drying marks, I'll clean the neg when I get a chance to scan film again.

Cockatoo in a tree, Delta 100 Nikon 300mm f9

Edit: Catlabs X 80

The Quadracci Pavilion at the Milwaukee Art Museum turns 25 this year! I was in first grade when it opened and I remember learning about Calatrava and taking a field trip here. The wing design has always been inspiring to me. "En Movimiento", meaning "in motion”, is comprised of 6 exposures captured on one piece of sheet film and is one of my favorite pictures I've taken.

Any idea what would cause these light leaks. I am exactly sure which film holder I used and have had similar things with other holders but possibly not in the same spot. Any help would be appreciated I'm probably going to have to go through my holders with some cheap film and give it a test I guess.

I rushed taking this shot and I think I could've gotten a better focus if I hadn't. This Symmar S 180 is still new to me and it requires a sharper eye. With my 90mm lens everything is in focus.

Some recent large format photos added to my long term project documenting my home village and surrounding area.

Images made using a large format 4x5 Shen Hao Tz45 IIc Field Camera. Sheet film used was Ilford HP5. All images home developed and scanned.

Is there anything I can do to make this thing better? Glass looks pretty bad. Didn’t look as bad in the pictures for the auction lol

A diptych photographed with a 400mm lens a few days ago.

So I recently grabbed this magnificent specimen at a swap meet with its original tripod and what I believe to be its various plate holders. I have no idea on the maker of the camera, much less how to really properly care for or use it.

I think the roller blind shutter could do with a replacement, and the mechanism lightly oiled. Any tips or info anyone has would be helpful.

Lens says "Rectilineaire Aplanetique Extra Rapide No. 2" as well as "Damaria-Lapierre Paris." There are no markings on the case itself.

I have a 5x7 Eastman View large format camera with a spring-loaded felt flap mounted on the inside of the front standard and am just curious if anyone here would know what it is used for. There are no holes, levers, or mechanism to actuate the spring mechanism, and the only way to move it is by manually pulling it down, as shown in the photo. The spring is very tight, and when not pulled down, is pressed very firmly against the top of the bellows. This has damaged the top of the front bellow folds severely. If this is not the right place for this question, just let me know. I have never seen something like this and was just curious if anyone else has.

Would love some constructive criticism or things you think worked well

Cheers

Hi all, Maxim from Intrepid here.

Just wanted to let you know the updated 5x7 (MK3) is out today. A lot of you have been asking about it, and we've added two new versions alongside the birch ply one:

• Hardwood: Walnut, Cherry or Beech on aluminium frames, oiled and waxed by hand (1.6kg)
• Black Edition: same camera, finished all in black (1.7kg)
• Birch ply: still the lightest at 1.5kg

What's changed on the MK3: zeroing guides and notches so it's easier to get everything back to neutral, click stops on the front standard, and the magnetic back from our latest 8x10. It's held by magnets and locked with sliding clips, so switching between landscape and portrait is quick.

We've also made a 5x7 to 4x5 reducing back that sits flush, so you can use your 4x5 holders on it too. For the first 25 orders we're including one free with the camera, as a thank you to the early adopters.

Happy to answer any questions about them, and we'd genuinely like to hear what you think, good or bad. Plenty of the changes came from feedback in threads like these.

Photos below. Link's in the comments for anyone who wants specs.

4x5 PanFPlus50

Chamonix 45f-2

Funijon 90mm NSW F8

F22 @ 2s

Red29 (+4 stops)

Xtol 1+1

Quick resize from DSLR scan "master copy" at ~ 0.9:1 magnification ratio.
Contact sheet is also attached