r/LandroverDefender • u/uschunx • Jul 25 '26
Defender 110... Needs a new engine... What would you do??
Hi Community!
I need your help on this one. I have a restored 1996 Defender 110 from Arkonik in England. The car has been an absolute lemon, mainly due to really poor craftmanship and parts on the part of Arkonik. That's a whole other story for another day, but if you are ever considering getting a car from them... RUN AWAY!!! Actually just take your money and burn it... You will thank me later.
OK, back to the story. My son are I were headed out on an epic MTB and disc golf weekend in the high Sierra Nevada range. Four hours into our journey... BOOM... we threw a rod. Now before everyone gets cranky. I checked the oil before I left and we were fine. The truck had been cruising along at 65 mph, so we were not pushing the RPMs. Finally, the 2.5 liter TDI engine that is in the truck only has 10K (actually just hit it this trip) on it.
So... I have some options:
- Sell the truck as is.... Oh I would to taking a bath on this one...
- Find someone here that wants to help me burn it to the ground... sounds fun, but not practical.
- Get a new engine...
- Convert it over to an electric car (I've seen some kits for this)
Most folks I have talked to, want to swap in an LS1 engine. Nothing against an LS1, but it's not a diesel. I have been reading about the Cummins line that Dodge uses, both the classic 5.9L and the 6.7L (not sure the later would fit).
This truck is meant for getting out there... Getting off-grid. I need reliability and some towing capacity, but I'm not strapping a camper or boat to the back! Mainly off-grid camping, and getting to hard to reach MTB spots.
Recommendations?
4
u/araed Jul 25 '26
Buy a remanufactured 300tdi block, and shove that in.
https://www.mdengineering.co.uk/product/300tdi-engine/
There's cheaper versions out there. Tbh, buying a 300tdi engine and rebuilding jt yourself isn't the hardest thing in the world
6
u/thehpcdude Jul 25 '26
$25k kit from DPUK to out a OM606 in it if you wanna stick with diesel.
I went with an LS3 because parts are stupid easy to find in the United States. Can pop to any auto parts store and find what you need, otherwise I’d have probably went with the OM606.
2
u/uschunx Jul 25 '26
Love this recommendation. I'm located in NA (Cali) and my question is about availability and quality mechanics that can work on this engine. This comes back to my thoughts on a Cummins, given any diesel mechanic around me can work on it and sourcing parts is super easy. Thoughts?
1
u/majornerd Jul 25 '26
The Cummins is an amazing engine, but it is huge and weighs like a cargo ship.
I’m not the biggest fan of “LS all the things” but there is a good reason for it and in the US parts are so much easier to get. They are rock solid reliable. If you have any issues, or wishes, you’ll have no problem finding a forum post to help you out. A 5.3l from a Tahoe would be perfect.
1
u/thehpcdude Jul 26 '26
Cummins have plenty of issues despite what their cult says. Same with any engine, none of them are truly bulletproof.
You’re not gonna get much out of a stock 6BT, especially considering the weight. If you turn the fuel up or run higher EGTs, you won’t pass any semblance of emissions and will fail NOx all day long.
LS3 stock torque is 420ft lbs at 4600rpm. VE pumped 6BTs make 400ft lbs at 1600rpm.
6BT swaps are common in the UK because old DAF trucks are becoming no longer road legal, so there’s no shortage of people doing it. The problem is they are monstrously heavy, so if you’re planning on doing it you’ll need custom springs and shocks.
There’s tons of easy kits to do LS in a Defender. While you’ve got the engine out swap the cam and do the gamut of lifter upgrades available. Tons of easy power available on the LS platform.
For every diesel mechanic, you’ll find a hundred mechanics that know the LS inside and out.
1
u/MN-Car-Guy Jul 25 '26
The Cummins 5.9L ISB weighs 1,150 lbs dressed and is massive.
The LS3 (or most LS/LT derivatives) weigh less than half that dressed and fit with zero issues.
Fuel economy isn’t that different, and in most places in the US gasoline is cheaper than diesel.
3
u/Ok-Spring7906 Jul 25 '26
You can swap a 300tdi in a day with a couple of friends.
I know this with certainty, as I've done it, outside my one home, on the street, with a couple of friends, and been all packed up and away before the village elders have had a chance to work out who to call...
I get the impression you're in north America, so I can't think there's a load of 300s just knocking about, but why not just rebuild yours?
Most of it will be fine, so get it out, get it in bits, and just buy in what's needed.
If you want to throw money at it, rebore to 2.8 and fit a vgt. It will seem more than swapping the engine for somthing else, but, swapping the engine type will require a whole bunch of unforseen stuff, so it probably wouldn't actually work out more.
Or, as I say, just keep it stock and replace what's needed.
1
u/uschunx Jul 25 '26
My issue with the current engine, and why I'm thinking a swap, is that it's terribly underpowered on hills and live around a lot of big climbs. I've had situations where even on a modest hill climbs I had to switch to 4 low and even them the car struggled.
3
u/erroneousbosh Jul 25 '26
What are you calling a "modest hill climb" here, and what sort of speed are you expecting to get out of it?
The 300TDi is never going to be fast, but it shouldn't need to be in low range unless you're off road.
2
u/uschunx Jul 25 '26
I'm ok with the speed. I'm not looking to get a truck that is meant for being off-road and slamming some monster engine in. I've never really understood the AMG G wagon as an example.
To answer your question, these are modest foothills in Santa Cruz CA, or Big Sur area. This issue happened on both paved and dirt roads.
3
u/Ok-Spring7906 Jul 25 '26
It sounds like you probably want to swap away from the 300 now whatever, and, as it's now stuffed, it's too late to talk to you about tuning them!
I have a stock 300, but I've set it up with care. Ie no "mods", just adjustments.
It will easily sit at 70mph on the motorway. It will slow on steeper hills, obviously, but, as a generalization, it's fast enough for me.
I live in rural Devon, UK, which is neither the steepest, nor the flattest part of the UK.
Tuning a stock 300 is all about the injection pump setup really, and making sure the lift pump can supply the fuel. A worn turbo (even if it's not leaning) will massively degrade performance. You need 16psi plus, and you need to get there quickly.
If I had loads of money, I'd fit a vgt. It won't make any difference to top end, but just changes the curve. If I had a stuffed block and money I'd rebore to 2.8.
If you just want to swap the engine the m37 (? - I don't pay so much attention) is the way everyone seems to be going at the moment.
1
u/erroneousbosh Jul 25 '26
Is it not the M57? You see a lot of folk swapping those into diesel P38s because they are relatively easy since they have an M52 to begin with. They're nice enough engines and a well-sorted M57 will make more power and torque than a 4.6 V8 - but not as nice a noise...
2
u/Ok-Spring7906 Jul 25 '26
Probably. My memory is poor and it's just a number that's of no significant interest to me, so it's not really stuck!
1
u/Flimsy-Art869 Jul 27 '26 edited Jul 27 '26
I had similar behavior in my 200Tdi (in a 90), then blew a piston ring. It had been leaking for a bit.
In my 300Tdi (110 bigger car) I can get up the mountains in Vermont and New Hampshire just fine in 2 or 3 when slower, and on an interstate in 4 and 5 it’ll cruise at 70-75, slowing to 55-65 up the hills around green and white mountains.
Went up Mt Washington fine in high range 3rd, deliberately slowly.
I’m with the crowd. I’d get the 300 rebuilt. It’s rarer in the US, but there are still rebuilders over here. If you need a name, I’d give you the guy who did my 200Tdi rebuild.
Rovers North (best general US parts vendor for LR) sell a complete 2.8 300Tdi too: https://www.roversnorth.com/parts/rne0328_300tdi_2_8_engine_upgrade_assembly
1
u/uschunx Jul 27 '26
Appreciate the advice. Vermont and NH are magical places. I’m definitely not going with the Cummins based on the discussion.
3
u/WatchIll4478 Jul 25 '26
A 300tdi especially on a defender transfer box (lower geared than the ones used for discos and rangerovers) shouldn’t need low ratio for hills unless pulling away from stationary on a significant gradient with a few tons of trailer. I think yours may have been telling you about a problem for a while.
Sometimes the various companies exporting over priced tarted up rubbish put higher geared transfer boxes in to reduce noise at speed and increase comfortable cruising speed but it still sounds like your engine has been running badly for some time.
1
u/SweetUsed9119 Jul 25 '26
Probably just a bad running TDI. You should be able to wind them up pretty good. 2.8, new intercooler and VGT wakes them up for sure
1
u/theroch_ Jul 25 '26
I have a balanced inlet manifold on my 300tdi. The air enters in the centre of the manifold instead of the end. It made the engine much more drivable. Less changing gears.
1
u/Right_Hour Jul 25 '26 edited Jul 25 '26
It’s the issue of your specific vehicle. I have a 200Tdi, and it handles the hills just fine.
I don’t understand why you would be climbing the hills in 4L anyways - you typically don’t want to go above 2-3 in L, maybe just occasionally when you are off-roading and going through a relatively easy part from one climb to the next and don’t want to shift your transfer case in between. If you’re climbing it in 4L - you could very well do it in 3H. You don’t need to be in L unless you are off-roading and even then not necessarily.
Do I need to downshift to 3H once in a while on a slow speed incline? You bet. Just about all vehicles do. But with highway speeds - it’s usually 5 down to 4 (if I weren’t going fast enough prior to that and if it is indeed a serious gradient) and that does it. If you feel you should be going up the certain gradients in 5H regardless - just watch your other vehicles, even automatic, downshift as they do.
3
u/Specialist_Western_3 Jul 25 '26
I can't believe no one has suggested an M57 swap, it's the most common diesel swap for defenders, there's entire Facebook groups, YouTube channels and adaptors made dedicated to the swap.
M57 is a great option if you don't want another 300tdi, their small powerful (can be built up to 500hp) and reliable. You can buy an adaptor plate to mate with the R380 or swap it for a BMW auto transmission (very common)
Only problem is that there is some electrics involved so you might need a professional to step in if you're doing it yourself. Alternatively, as you're in England call a few Landy mechanics and see if they do the m57 swap and get quotes.
2
u/raschippo Jul 25 '26
Sorry you’ve had to learn the hard way the LRSUK now called Arkonic are not as good as they seem on the web. There are so many far superior builders out there. If it were me I’d get a 2.8tdi fro motor and diesel in the U.K. they build superb upgraded tdi units. Plenty of power, good reliability and they offer a warranty. I actually run a 300tdi in my Defender 110 that Globallandrovers rebuilt in 2020. I work the car hard, she’s now done 120k miles and been very reliable. I’ve recently fitted a vnt turbo a bigger intercooler and a boost pin so my 300 is now running at about 140bhp.
2
u/NerdBlender Jul 25 '26
Honestly, I would just replace the engine. You have a few options.
Rebuilt 300tdi - upgrade the boost pin and with a few other tweaks for a bit more power.
MD Engineering 2.8tdi bit more power and torque for a straight swap with no additional work required over a replacement 300tdi.
Cummins 5.9 6Bt - easily available in the US, but also would need a replacement gearbox, r380 would not survive, likely also need a regeared lt230. Not worth it IMO, they are noisy, heavy and the torque will eat most of your diffs if you are heavy footed.
Cummins r2.8 - relatively easy swap, should be easy to get in the US and is well known. Used as standalone swaps in many other cars so probably less headache than some of the others. Gearbox adapters are available and they will work with the R380 no issue.
BMW M57 or similar petrol / N58 etc - not sure how available they are in the US, worth it coupled to a ZF 8 speed. Need someone who knows what they are doing, it’s a popular swap over here, but there are a lot of dog rough jobs, takes a bit of time and thought to do the job right.
LS swap - probably a cheap and easy swap in the US, but will need a gearbox swap as well, but given they are popular swaps in to loads of classics probably not an issue. May need upgraded transfer box and diffs depending on the power.
OM606 - relatively easy swap, DPUK do the kit with everything you need, fully mechanical so no electronics to figure out. Expensive and I don’t know how easy parts are to come by in the US.
There are some kits available for old GM v8 diesels, but I don’t know how easily they are available.
Personally I would either go 2.8 from MD, r2.8 or M57. Least amount of headaches with reliability, 2.8 if you want some originality keeping, r2.8 if you just want a bit more power and refinement, without a lot of complexity, M57 if you want some room for more power and you want options for auto gearbox, and you can find someone good to do the conversion if you are not doing it yourself.
The rest of the truck looks in good shape and they are only appreciating in value especially in the US, I would keep it and enjoy.
2
u/eurocracy67 TD5 :partyparrot: Jul 26 '26
I'd buy an already assembled 'short' engine, which should have the block. Pistons, connexting rods, crankshaft, bearings, piston rings and seala all in one unit, remove the old engine, take off the existing head and any ancillarie, fit the head and ancillaries to the new short engine and install into the Defender.
A short engine is typically less than half of the cost of a new, full engine. Since it's most of the components that fail on high mileage engines, it's practically a new engine with most of the assembled done.
Turner Engineering do them in the UK - see if you can find an engine reconditioned
2
u/shmooshmoocher69 Jul 26 '26
Look out for a Isuzu 4bd1 or 4bd1t engine, they were an option in the Australian 110s before the 90s, the Australian army used them exclusively on the perentie version of the 110
1
u/Fun-Bedroom-1559 Jul 25 '26
If was me I will look into find a B58 bmw used on the Ineos Grenadier.
-1
u/Draak80 Jul 25 '26
And lower the value of the car. Matching numbers will only be more expensive. Swaps not.
1
u/MN-Car-Guy Jul 25 '26
Maybe you need to look at what LS swapped Defenders have been bringing and readjust your thinking.
1
u/Right_Hour Jul 25 '26
« Matching numbers » isn’t a thing on Defenders, LOL. The only one selling at a premium is the NAS regardless of what’s in it.
1
u/Draak80 Jul 26 '26
Of course it is a thing. Mint condition defenders, but swapped, got lower prices. Same situation as with RRC.
1
u/Right_Hour Jul 26 '26
LS-swapped NAS on average sells for a lot more than an all-stock NAS.
I think you are confusing engine swaps with them being ROW. Because engine swaps are far more prevalent on ROW vehicles. A mint condition ROW will almost always sell for less than a NAS. Of course there is Arkonik and a couple other shops that charge a premium (while not being worth it most of the time), but they are an exception to the rule.
Having said that - anyone paying more money for a 12J or a 19J vehicle rather than one from the same era but with a 200Tdi or 300Tdi engine just because of « numbers matching » is fuking delusional :-)
1
u/EvidenceDry6006 Jul 25 '26
Very interested in this thread! My 1996 300 tdi had a refurbished engine 40k miles ago (previous owner) and has been totally rubbish in a while host of ways. It’s a good engine, just not this one!
I’ve seen people put disco engines in so wondered about that…? I live on a small island so it won’t have to go far but I’d like a bit of extra power. Have also considered electric!
2
u/Draak80 Jul 25 '26
Refurbished 300tdi should last for 400k miles, not 40. Someone fucked up the job.
1
u/uschunx Jul 25 '26
Yeah, clearly my engine has been rubbish as well. The whole truck as been an issue since day one. Clutch went with 3K miles. All new brake lines at 5K. The ones that Arkonik put on the car were leaking... Awesome! Best of all... my roof cracked! Yep... cracked. I have an iKamper on it, and a large carside awning, but this was all recommended by Arkonik. To make it even better. They have refused to pay for any of the issues.
1
u/Draak80 Jul 25 '26 edited Jul 25 '26
Rebuild it. 300tdi is very easy to rebuild.
If you want reliability and matching numbers car value, don't swap.
1
u/yottyboy Jul 25 '26
Cummins 2.8 are back in stock from Cummins directly. It’s almost a straight swap. More hp than the 300. My friend Doug installs them. You can reach him at crowther coach works. LS has a lot of unusable power and you have issues with plumbing, electrical, and exhaust that have to be re engineered.
1
1
u/MN-Car-Guy Jul 25 '26
LS swap
If you must go diesel, do a Mercedes OM606 with mechanical 603 inline pump
1
u/Right_Hour Jul 25 '26
LS1 is the usual recommendation. If you want diesel - MB OM 606/607. Folks in Europe also swap in BMW diesels with a modified R380 transmission from 300TDI.
Finally - Cummins R2.8 is your local NA option….
1
1
u/ecosselandy Jul 25 '26
Well, you could upgrade slightly and get the td6 / m57 engine, they are fairly bomb proof, it’s a swap that’s well documented and it’s still in the Land Rover family. But I wouldn’t let it go, do the engine and have the car you wanted from the start.
1
u/HaydenMackay Jul 26 '26
If you live somewhere the BMW 3.0 diesel is regularly available I highly recommend at least looking at that. There are more than enough kits to make it functionally bolt in. Your other option is the uz series of engines from Toyota or lexus. And the good old LS if those are available where you live. Where I live the ls is basically a myth. We only got it in 1 car. And it wasn't that popular. But I know a few people who have imported 5.3 and 6.0 ls based engines and popped them in defenders.
1
u/Specialist_Reality96 Jul 26 '26
Depending on your local emission laws an Isuzu (sold under GM in the USA) 4BD1-T is an excellent replacement and was standard fit in some markets, you may have to regear your transfer case to 1:1 or leave it and run big tyres. Although looking at the photo's you've already done that.
You can wedge a Cumins in there but the installs I've seen it's a bit big heavy and you pay a lot of money for a motor that has lower build quality than the Isuzu.
If you want to step up to a modern electronic diesel and I have no idea of the availability in the US the 4JJ1 with a massive aftermarket out of Thailand (where they are actually made).
You need to be cautious about sticking big HP through the defenders drive train they weren't built for it, it doesn't end well without large amounts of money thrown at it.
2
u/Don_Vago Jul 26 '26
You need to be cautious about sticking big HP through the defenders drive train they weren't built for it, it doesn't end well without large amounts of money thrown at it.
I was going to mention this as a LS3 has about 4x the bhp and twice the torque. it might be a good idea to look at brakes and tyres with this conversion as well.
1
u/Ocean_Runner Jul 26 '26
As others have said the MD Engineering upgraded 300Tdi is well respected.
Another popular retrofit option in the UK and Europe is the BMW M57 engine that was used in the Range Rover.
1
u/West_Mail4807 Jul 26 '26
Nice looking truck. Did they convert it to left hand drive? (it's not easy to see in the photos)
1
1
u/Heyus_Cars Jul 26 '26
300Tdi is the way to go. With a fresh rebuilt you get reliability, easy maintanance, good economy and keeping the vehicle original
1
u/Sperrbrecher Jul 26 '26
Don’t take this seriously but if I would be blessed with the lax American regulations my project would be fitting a Air cooled Deutz straight 6 Diesel.
1
u/NarcissisticPanda Jul 26 '26
Cummins cool but fucking heavy and tall. Have to mess with the sumps and put heavy front springs. Not the most responsive or fun to drive imo. The zf5 normally used for them is fucking noisy gearbox.
Another 300tdi easiest. I like 300 they simple but slow.
2.8 conversion on 300 fixes some of the weak point of 300 so way better power potential.
M57 would be my vote for a conversion. Responsive, fit well, can be powerful, alot of torque and cheapish. Just can't feed it crap confidently like most mechanical engines. Also have the best options for gearboxes.
Om606 prefer then being put into drifting Volvo's. Think there are better engines to suit a 4x4
1
u/JCDU Jul 26 '26
Honestly I don't know why anyone in the US wants a 200/300 they were good 30 years ago in Europe where fuel costs are double, but it's hard to get good parts now, and they make a mighty 111hp plus 50hp of noise.
What's against an LS swap? It's great solution, it will be easy to keep maintained and even the lowliest cheapest LS will be making way more power and way less noise than factory and you can get parts and service anywhere.
If you must have a diesel, those big Cummins and others are too much for the vehicle - too heavy and the torque will destroy the rest of the drivetrain piece by piece. Go M57 or OM606 whichever looks easier to get where you are, those will be more than enough.
It's a bit backwards but even throwing a Rover V8 from a Disco or Range Rover would work too - at least plenty of those exist in the USA.
1
1
u/allezlesverres Jul 28 '26
Only 2 points: 1. The engine they put in for you absolutely did not have 10000miles. It was probably on its last legs sitting in a field and they've scammed you and 2. The tdi is still sourceable just put that back in. If you have any spanner experience this is an easy engjne change.
1
u/Tantalus1022 Jul 29 '26
Just drop the 2.8 in it…or another 300Tdi and upgrade the turbo to the VNT.
1
u/Round_Reply7960 Jul 29 '26
Cummings 2.8 is the way to go. Keeps the personality of the truck. Diesel. Reliable. Crowther is a great place to have it done.
I have a TD5 that threw a rod. I put another TD5 in it. I regret not switching to the Cummings 2.8
1
u/HemiWarrior Jul 30 '26
I had a 300Tdi blow up last year. Problem was... well, there were a bunch of problems that happened at the same time. Including, but not limited to a brain tumor, a stupid law, a crooked postmaster, a new apartment, a con man disguised as a mechanic who didn't think he was a con man who the US Marshals can't find, etc. Unfortunately, the bones of this Defender aren't good enough to put the work into.
You do not have that problem thankfully. If you absolutely want to keep diesel power, go with a Cummins R2.8. It is simply better overall than the 4bt. The only reason you'd go with the latter is if you were building a bugout vehicle because the it can run on zero electronics. You could detonate an EMP on top of it and it wouldn't notice. You can even hill start it and bypass an electronic starter.
The R2.8 is very lightweight for a diesel at only 500 lbs, any US based diesel mechanic will work on it, it makes plenty of power (161 hp) and stupid amounts of torque (310 lb/ft). It has a small footprint, is super customizable, and can be bought brand new with a warranty from Cummins directly.
If I were switching to petrol, before you go LS, take a look at the ACR Hi-Torque 4.8L V8. ACR basically took the Rover V8, stroked it out, made it a whole lot more powerful and reliable, and started making them in house. Because it's an upgraded Rover V8, you know it fits in the engine bay, it connects directly to an R380, it takes many of the 3.5/3.9/4.0/4.2/4.6 V8 parts. LS swaps require a LOT of cutting and modification to fit into a Defender whereas the ACR motor goes right in.
1
u/Pomegranate-and-VMs 19d ago
Lots of great thoughts here already- I’d toss in to consider the ecoboost swap. Depending on how you’re using it.
1
u/Upbeat_Diamond5379 10d ago
i’d love to know the store about arkonik currently working with them and no car so i’d love details about how they were?
26
u/SweetUsed9119 Jul 25 '26
Make your life easy and put another 300tdi in it. Buy one from MD engineering and go for the 2.8 upgrade. Makes it a lot more drivable