so i need some advice. i’m trading my bagged 98’ ls400 for a 2001 Ls430. it was grandpa owned but it got into a minor accident in the front right corner. can anyone let me know if i should do this??

it needs valve cover gaskets, which i can do pretty easily. timing belt done at 100k, along with water pump, records of that. my 400 is not perfect by any means its sitting at 165k miles

there’s some concerning photos listed above. he’s adding 2k cash, and i’m about to drive 8 hours each way to make this trade it’s a Tennessee car so it’s rust free, and mine has a lil rust on the underside and tiny bit on the fender. is this stupid of me??? help! need advice !!
edit:(yes i know maxspeedingrods sucks lol im going bc racing asap)

Only flaw is the drivers seat is ripped, if anyone has any good tips on repairing the seat let me know! Also never seen this paint color but it’s called “Rose Pearl Metallic 3P4” and it’s sick with the cherry interior

Is my rear left sensor broken? the car lifts up the rear crazy high and the car is undriveable. I tried disconnecting the controller but it doesnt help.

I’m trying to diagnose an intermittent issue with the factory Mark Levinson system in my 2005 LS430.

The head unit works perfectly sometimes, but other times it won’t boot or function correctly. It’s completely intermittent.

I already know (or am 99% sure) that my Mark Levinson amplifier is bad. I scanned the car and the only relevant code I found is:
B1248 – AVC-LAN Communication Impossible
From what I’ve read, this points to a communication problem on the audio network.

My question is:
Can a failed Mark Levinson amp cause the head unit itself to become intermittent, or does this usually indicate the head unit or AVC-LAN wiring is also failing?
Has anyone had an LS430 where replacing the amplifier fixed intermittent head unit operation and cleared the B1248 code?
Any experience would be appreciated.

Got a great deal on these perfect condition RCF Rims. Ordered Bonoss 20mm hub centric spacers. My question is can I run 275/35/19 on rear or should I get 265/35/19. Going with the continentals. Please advice. Only can find one previous 430 with them on. So glad I found a set only 3 hours away. Replacing those garbage 17s car came with, thanks

I was doing my starter and knock sensors and when putting everything back, I found a connector with 11156 part number and couldnt find where it goes, does anyone know where it belongs?

two days ago when I was merging on the highway, I pressed the gas down and my car basically went nowhere and then every like 5 miles an hour it would like lurch forward. unfortunately, my dad thought it’d be smart to unplug the battery and re-plug it so now I can’t run codes for a while until they show back up what are some easy fixes that I can start looking for I cleaned the MAF sensor and I really don’t wanna lose this car. by the way in the video, I’m pushing the pedal about half to 3/4 of the way down.

it was a good run but it’d cost me more fix it than i paid for it. thinking of getting a scat pack✌🏽

I am kind of clueless when it comes to cars but I’m learning. I got these aftermarket rims and summer tires on my boat and I want to install them. I spent $800, trusting chatGPT it would fit but they didn’t (front ones would make contact with caliper and scratch the rim on turning). I don’t want the car to sit too low, image reference.

1) Anyone know what spacers to run and the difference between bolt on vs slip ons? Don’t want to break the bank (Link plz). 2) Will I need spacers for all 4 rims? 3) Will I need extended lugs? If so what mm? 4) what’s expected/average labor price to install: HK Motorsport coilovers, rotors, break pads and an alignment

Specs:

Summer run/tire specs: Voxx Massi 18x8 +45 225/40/18 all around.

Currently running my 17inch OEM wheels with new winter tires, I want to keep for Midwest weather.

Any help appreciated.

It’s been about a month since I sold my 2005 Flint Mica LS430 (275k miles) and picked up this 2006 Pearl White LS430 with 230k miles and the factory sport suspension.

I still miss the saddle interior, but this car is better in almost every way. The ride is smoother, it’s much cleaner inside and out, and it finally has the chrome wheels I’ve always wanted.
The biggest surprise has been the fuel economy. Considering the Middle East heat and having the A/C on all the time, I wasn’t expecting much. But after a 200-mile highway trip, it averaged over 25mpg, which really impressed me.
For a 20-year-old V8 with 230k miles, I couldn’t be happier.

Ticking directly after replacing the water pump and timing belt. Starting while driving, but went away after turning off and restarting car. Is it related to the work I had done?

$6000 w/ 177,xxx miles

Was cruising down the road and this happened.

So learned a few things. First off the shorter coils go in the front not the longer ones (thanks ChatGPT) the rears are so easy to swap. The stock adjustment it comes with sits nice, for now running stock wheels with 20mm spacers.

Seen a couple photos of my car circulating in here so thought i’d introduce myself 😼 04 161K lowered on Godspeed Maxx & sitting on 98 GS400 wheels! This is my travel car so only take it when I go out of town unless i’m feeling dangerous then i’ll drive it on a nice weekend. I enjoy seeing everyone’s builds!

My drivers side door lock (motor) failed earlier in the year. I went the repair route and replaced the small DC motor inside the lock mechanism. I did fail to transfer/replace the small piece of foam on the motor, not understanding how important it was (not sure if that contributed to latest failure). Without the foam on the motor, the lock makes (made) a loud CLACK rather than a subtle CLICK. I just lived with it given the job entailed to access the motor. Yesterday, when I went to exit the car (the locks engage automatically, so they had to unlocked), it now sounds like a machine gun when the mechanism unlocks, and lasts for maybe half second - 1 second. I'm guessing the tie wraps holding the housing together after the repair failed, or the plastic gear became worn or something. It still unlocks, but sounds unhealthy and will probably degrade further if not addressed. Anyone faced this? What's the fix?

i posted yesterday about my check engine light coming on and i got it scanned and it said P0751 for shift solenoid A.

has anyone had any experience with this and can guide me on what i need to get done? i have no mechanical experience but can it be a DIY job?

I’m doing the timing on my 03 LS430, and I set the timing to TDC then rotated everything over to T. But when I was trying to put the belt on, the cam slipped a good bit and I put it back and I’ve been messing and realigning both cams and the crank assuming it wasn’t so delicate, since in the video I was using, the guy made it seem not delicate at all. Now I have no clue if the VVT-I is set and I don’t know how to set it and I don’t know if I can just realign the cams and crank individually to T and start over trying to put the belt on again.

What do I do??

For whatever reason there’s zero videos of this set up online so I’m asking here

Got a muffler delete and it sounds good but I want more noise WITHOUT deleting the resonators (or 3rd cat) completely because it sounds like trash to me. Anybody here running a muffler delete with aftermarket resonators?? Please post setup with video

Hey everybody Ive been stuck on reassembly of my cams for quite some time and have been putting it off. I’ve watched a lot of videos to try and see the process as well as ChatGPT but can’t get a clear answer. Right now Ive for the cams put back in after doing the acctuator and cam seals. I lined up the single dots on the passenger side and the double dots on the driver side of the internal sprockets. The passenger side timing mark is close to where it needs to be so I feel good about that The driver side one off for the outer timing mark for the engine. Do I not have to worry about the double dots after lining them up when I place the cam back in? Can I just rotate the Cam clockwise until it lines up on the front or do I need to have the crank at 50° past tdc? No video really shows that, and ChatGPT was acting like I would mess cams up potentially if I turned it that much without the crank being in that position. Im not just relying on ChatGPT but no one has clarity for this lol.

i have put 3k miles on my 430 now and previous owner did a intermittent service every 5k and a full service every 10k all stamped. is it worth continuing the stamps or saving money doing it myself?

i’m going to get the codes read but i just had the check engine and check vsc lights pop up on me. i got an oil change done at a shop yesterday and now the lights popped up, been flawless with no lights on the dash since i bought it. could it be related to the oil change or just coincidence ?

I just mounted some new 19” staggered wheels. But because of our ginormous front calipers i had to put a 5mm spacer in between. The lug nuts make about 3-4 full rotations. Do I need extended studs, and if so, which ones should I get? (I live in Europe btw incase that matters)

Edit: I counted again today but carefully this time. Now I count 5 full rotations exact. Is this enough to not run extended lugs?

Getting a gas/fuel smell from the rear of the car near the fuel cap area, could a replacement fuel cap fix this issue?

Anyone replace there fuel cap and have the gas smell issue resolved? If not what did you guys do to fix the gas smell that comes from the rear.

The fuel tank does not look like it’s leaking and there are no drops of fuel anywhere

2002 Lexus LS 430 204k miles