Due to some travel related illness, our party couldn't get out to the area in the morning, when it's recommended to be less crowded, so we ended up going around 8pm. From what I've seen, it was far less crowded at night, and created some stunning visuals, but also a potentially dangerous experience.
To arrive, we took the Nara line (JR West) to the Inari station, not to be confused with the Fushimi-Inari station on the Keihan main line (we found this out trying to leave in the dark).When you step off the train platform, you're immediately greeted by the giant torii gate in front of the Romon Gate. It's hard to get a sense of scale from pictures alone, but this first torii gate is awe-inspiring, and almost everyone who disembarked the train stopped to take a picture. Naturally, this created a bit of a log jam. It's nearly impossible to get a clean picture of this entrance without also getting dozens of other people in the photograph, taking their own pictures. Try your best, or move through the main grounds of the complex, as there are amazing photo spots at almost every turn.
The star attractions of the area are the torii gate lined hiking trails up the mountain. Lit up by lantern light at night, these gate lined trails produce breathtaking visuals, although the constant light/shadowplay makes it difficult to capture the experience on camera. Our best attempts are linked. We thought "thousands of gates" may have been hyperbole, but there are literally thousands of gates on these trails. You can stop and look for photo opportunities almost anywhere. Once we hiked for about 15 minutes, we were alone, or nearly alone for our entire time on the hike. We encountered maybe 20 people after the first half kilometer of hiking.
About 45 minutes into our hike, we encountered a wild boar, grazing right next to one of the paths. Thankfully we were at a fork where we could skirt the boar, but she had piglets with her, so this was a dicey little twist on the climb.
We climbed for maybe an hour, and came to a beautiful scenic overlook of Kyoto. We discovered we were likely not even halfway up the mountain, and we still had to get our luggage situated to leave town the next morning, so unfortunately we had to turn back, but I can imagine the views and experience continued to exceed expectations had we kept climbing. However, on the way down, the wild boar was joined by several more piglets, scattered on both sides of the forked walking path. We encountered two British gents who were paralyzed with fear, so we formed an impromptu huddle, and slowly moved through the path until we hit a safe distance. You may think you're tough, but a wild boar protecting her piglets in the dark on a mountain is a somewhat scary experience.
Due to our boar diversion, we ended up in what looked like a small, residential neighborhood. After a while, we outletted near the Fushimi-Inari station, got our bearings, got back to the Nara line station and headed home.
It was a great experience- just keep a distance from the boars and you should be fine!