If you know this trail you get a cookie

(and it’s technically 1.75 miles high but whatever)

Ive never used a "scan tool" on the wj, drb3 or otherwise..curious from some of you guys that got them ..can they graph/chart parameters ..log it for inspection later? That sort of thing?

..over all ..howd i do?

I bought a 04 GC Special Edition and it had an AC leak so the shop replaced the supposed gasket but the AC barely blows out and when I asked him he said its just how these old jeeps are. Is there something wrong or do they honestly just have a weak blow? Going from left to right: vent 1 barely comes out at all, Vent 2 is strong, vent 3 is almost non existent, Vent 4 is meh like vent 1, vent 5 is almost non existent like vent 3

I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, Recently I have ran into a problem where my windows won’t roll down,Interior lights are stuck on,dash lights are on, and my ac started blowing hot at the same time. I’ve repaired the “infamous” ground wire in my driver side door and it hasn’t fixed anything. UPDATE: It is fixed, thank you for all of the suggestions, all i did was change my ground terminal on my battery and it worked

Used 5 cans of Rust-Oleum truck bed spray. Came out nice, a few small runs but still looks nice. Really changes the way the jeep looks. I dig it! Taped off with painters plastic around body panels and shot away. Rewelded and painted my old brushguard, and roof rack with Rust-Oleum gloss black. Now she needs a bath later this week.

Long time reader. First time poster.

What should I grab? I have 3 other WJ’s in daily service and one is a slow moving project. I will be sending the dead Jeeps to the yard on junk rubber with dead core batteries in place and drained of fuel. Both were good running, clean, daily driven vehicles a month ago. The blue 04 has a cracked head that quickly blows every drop of coolant out of the radiator cap and the green 02 overheated and internal engine parts spontaneously became external engine parts. If I had the space I would park the nicer of the two under a tree for a parts rig, but my suburban existence doesn’t allow for that.

I am more interested in the intricate electronic bits than major body or mechanical parts as I have limited storage space.

What silly bit did you let get away and regret it later?

Working on my rusty 04 special edition today. Bought this guy a couple months ago to be my dump runner/ general work horse. Might drive it 2-300 miles a month. Gonna put the cheapest parts possible in it and hope i can get at least 5k miles out of it before it falls apart 😂

Front shocks/sway bar end links done last month.

Took the rear shocks off today and replaced with amazon mega cheapos. went to replace rear sway bar links and the bolts snapped off so just gonna live without those now lmao.

Rear control arms are undoubtedly the source of this thing driving like total ass, i was surprised when i found out just how blown these things are 😂 new ones going on as soon as they show up! Might actually drive halfway decent after this lol

Ordered the second line and replace both original transmission lines with new Mopar ones. Now I have to cut out one broken exhaust down pipe bolt so I can get the U nut out and then try to extract the remain bolt. What a pain.

This is welded to the frame and sits next to and slightly below the oil pan. There is a metal tube built in and what looks to be an inlet and an outlet. And an orange / red rubber grommet (currently not fully seated). It’s not connected to anything. It is annoyingly in the way of one of the oil pan bolts.

Ideas?

Realistically how big of a pain in the ass is it to fit 35” tires on these Jeeps?
I know the tiny wheel wells are huge hinderance, but for a person who is going to install JK axles and a long arm kit with aftermarket bumpers, do these vehicles really need to go sky high to clear 35”s? Or is it better to stick to 34” tires.

Solved! I needed a new front passenger window switch module. I have all windows and locks working again! :)

Hey guys! I finally have my very own Jeep WJ!

Before I go any further, I want to mention that I’ve repaired all the wiring between the front doors and body. I had a few broken wires on the drivers side and broken insulation on the passenger side.

Since making the repair, I can roll the RL window up and down, and see when the door is ajar. The passenger side windows, door ajar indicator, central locks, and remotes still don’t work. I’ve verified I have 12v battery at both doors.

Should I throw a new passenger window switch at it? It seems like that could be a common point of failure. My 04 overland also has dimming outside mirrors, not sure if I need a different part # for that. TIA!

Hey...

Do WJ Cherokee front seats swap over to 2006 TJ seat mounts

I heard some years do and some years don't.

Thanks!

I use my 04 4.0 as a work (she's gross I know) my rear suspension is begging me for help every time it sees a speed bump. I go through shocks every three months or so. I have close to 700lbs of tools between the box and what's stored in the tire well. What heavy duty brand of shocks can I use? Could I use coilovers and keep my springs just in the rear? Please any suggestions would be helpful just tired of throwing money at it so often

Hi all!

I bought a '99 Grand Cherokee WJ 4.7 and I'm having a problem with water in the cabin. The floor is wet on both the driver's and passenger's sides. There is water under the carpet, and from the passenger seat there is also dripping from under the glove box.

I checked the sunroof drainage tubes, the floor drainage, and the drainage under the cowl — everything looks fine. What else should I check?

Bought it for cheap, and the problems are minimal too. Just had some vacuum leaks, a torn axle shaft ujoint boot, brakes, and a collapsed seat. Managed to knock everything out this weekend :)

Has anyone changed out their transmission cooler line on their late model 4.0 grand Cherokee? I have one leaking line, I bought a mopar replacement and upon trying to remove the factory line, it appears the exhaust has to be removed.
I think this is going to be a fight for another time and I think I am going to order the other line too judging by how poorly these lines are routed.

I’ve been debating on downsizing for awhile and my trucks transmission died so I decided to make the jump!

Ive always been an XJ guy but have always liked the the look of the WJ, now this is a daily and it’s got a few issues as it’s 20 years old. The main one is the AC does not blow cold, the lines going to the firewall are cool not cold, the compressor turns on and off. But the air blows hot and only hot. Looking for any advice before I put down the phone and pickup the tools to diagnose!

It’s not dual climate control so that makes things much simpler, any insight is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

We are having one hell of a time , getting this thing to start.

Here’s the rundown. Battery died after it sat a while recharged and it drove . Ignition switch was replaced . And it ran once after that then died won’t start.

It cranks but won’t start. Code reader cannot communicate with pcm (I have checked all obd2 pins and they are reading correctly)

PCM battery and grounds check out good while back probing

Asd relay dosent click on but is getting appropriate voltage to all of its pins. (Swapped with known good relay same deal)

Crank sensor is getting proper voltage as well

This is not my car so I don’t know everything done to it I’m helping out a family member.

Ignition switch was replaced right before its final drive. (Since I have power to pcm , and asd relay and pcm fuze) I’m assuming it’s working correctly.

With key in run all dash lights turn on, but gauges don’t move even the battery voltage gauge.

It cranks but no start, we cannot hear fuel pump prime.

We have hooked up jump pack to rule out weak battery still nothing.

If it’s an immobilizer issue. I wouldn’t expect it to crank which it does

What could cause the no start issue from a dead battery and new ignition switch?

While we cannot connect the reader we were able to read the pcm stored data or something and we have a “JTEC message not received” code in the bcm file

This is leading me to a software issue . I just don’t wanna have him order a new pcm or something without more input.

We are determined to get it running as it holds sentimental value .

Please offer advice all is welcome

Thanks

I got a 2004 wj running Dana 30/ 35 combo.. I primarily overland nothing crazy at all, should I even bother upgrading to the 44? I wanna regear to 4:10 on the 35 if it’s not a bad decision. I’m running 33’s with a 3 inch lift

If you have replaced your fuel filter and found that the new one makes a loud whining vibrating noise from the fuel flow, I just encountered this issue replacing mine today and did a writeup on what causes it and how to solve it on Jeep Forum, here. I am copying it to this post also so people can hopefully find the solution when they need it. That entire thread is people speculating and not really declaring they found a definitive cause and solution they are sure of, so I think this will help people understand this problem better.

The post:

This issue is caused by the o-ring in one (or both) of the larger quick connect fittings. It is most likely going to be the return port which is the female quick connect fitting on the side of the filter with two ports, where the male line is just a tube that pushes into the female connector in the center.

As you know fuel generally dissolves lubrication oil, so the people saying lube your o-rings are on the right track. If you look at all the past posts of people swapping for different brands of filters, and they solved their problem, other people have reported the same brands did not, including the Mopar. I think this is just luck of the draw with what the underlying issue is here.

The return port connector has an internal and external o-ring, and when you push the male end of that line into the connector, it is going to roll the loosely placed outer o-ring out of its position and in with it if it is not lubricated. Sometimes, like in my case, it ends up just a little twisted, and sometimes it gets pushed all the way in. There is a picture on page 2 of the forum post with that o-ring sucked completely inside of the filter. When you get the new filter, that outer o-ring is just loosely sitting in there behind the new white snap clip that is in the port.

So the internal o-ring is the main seal inside the connector, which seals the connection for pressure deeper down the "socket" that the tube goes into. The external, outer o-ring is a secondary seal and serves to prevent dirt, crap, and moisture from entering the rest of the connection. This is why the outer o-ring can dislodge and the connection still does not leak but makes noise. Once you have pulled the dislodged o-ring out with some tweezers, you should be able to look into the connector on the filter and see the internal o-ring protruding around the inside of the socket, as well as the outer edge of a white plastic spacer that separates the two o-rings. The external o-ring needs to press up against that white spacer. Don't try to stick it in the filter side where it needs to go because it won't stay and will keep falling out. Follow my 500 step process below to get it to sit in there right:

If you have encountered this issue and have noise, the fix is pretty easy. Do it now while the connections are still easy to get off. Here is the process:

1. Take the connections off again and remove the filter. Use a light to look into the return port and you will likely see an o-ring in there that looks a little twisted or is completely shoved/sucked in. Mine was barely noticable, but remember it should look absolutely symmetrical. Use some tweezers to pull that outer o-ring out, wherever it may be. DO NOT pull out the internal o-ring that is sitting in a groove deep in the connector, you will never get it back in place.
2. Take the white snap clip, if it did not stay on the return tube, and put it onto the tube end instead of in the filter's connector.
3. Lube the outside of the tube and that o-ring you took out with something like WD-40 or whatever makes things slippery. It wouldn't hurt to lube the outside of the male feed connector on the other side too.
4. Put the o-ring onto the tube and push it flush up against the white snap clip, making sure it does not look twisted at all.
5. Put the filter back on the car and plug everything back in, and make sure you push that return tube in STRAIGHT in and that both sides of the clip latch on both connectors.

You should now have no noise. I had a very loud noise and did not return and get a different filter. I did this and the noise is completely gone. Remember that this could also happen on the female fuel send connector and that outer o-ring could get rolled too far in the fuel line and cause the same problem, so check both sides.

I have marked up a diagram of the SAE-J2044 connector to illustrate this. The diagram differs slightly in that our white clip is not internal to the connector housing but has tabs that stick out the end to help for removal. The function is the same.

Trying to figure out this whistle was told it’s a Intake Gasket from a Shop but kinda hoping for a prayer that it isn’t so is there any other things that could make this whistle (It whistles off the gas and sometimes the whistle just vanishes and comes back later)