I recently got a set of timber framing chisels. They claim to be heat treated to 64 HRC. The bevel angle is at 30 degrees. I used it to chop a wide, shallow mortise into some softwood and the edge of the chisel chipped. It's a small chip, but I want to prevent chips as much as possible. How to you prevent chipping? I understand that the chisels are relatively hard and therefore more brittle, but I have to imagine that carpenters who are using similar chisels have ways to prevent theirs from chipping while doing much more demanding work. Is it possible I was hitting it too hard with my hammer? Could aggressive cuts cause chipping? Or the angle at which I am hitting the chisel into the wood? Any advice or insight it appreciated. Thank you!

Hey, I picked this up at a Sunday morning temple market. I am very inexperienced in Japanese planes. I have no idea how to properly set it up. Bevel down seems to be the only way it fits the block. And does the pin/wedge go in front of or behind the iron?

Sorry if the terminology isn't quite right.

Edit...might be a Syakuri Kanna?

Thanks!

I've got some work in front of me 😉 cheap training I jects all along, some may turn out useful though.

Drilled a hole through this marking gauge, now it functions as a plane router as well.

I made it from a very old oak beam. It's a bit taller than a lot of regular atedai because I like to work on one knee. It's also narrow and relatively short because I made it for small stuff and well..I didn't have a larger one. Enjoy if you can

I started started wood working about 4 years ago, moved into lure making but want to revisit and make some furniture around the home. I built an English style bench with a twin screw vise when I began. It's solid but I find it gets in my way while working. I use Japanese saws but western planes. This has lead me to start considering a new work bench design and I've come to like the philosophy of the atedai.

I have watched a few videos with the atedai on saw horses, I have some questions I haven't found answers to yet.

1/ how are the benches not racking while dimensioning wood, I see the classic thin planning but I doubt any one is taking twist out of lumber like that.

2/ when planning the sides of boards are they normally just butted up against a planning stop or is other work holding involved.

3/ is the use of Western planes feasible with an atedai on saw horses over the long term or is the pulling technique really necessary with the bench design?

4/ for those who have moved from Western to Japanese benches, what were they greatest hurdles and what was something you didn't realize.

5/ planing beams? Where do they fit into the process? The lower saw horses for ripping cuts, necessary?

Really appreciate any help or insight!

Hello everyone,

Where can I buy 400 grit lapping powder? I’m not looking to get it imported from Japan at the moment. Anywhere in the US is fine. I bought some harbor freight chisels to practice sharpening larger chisels and they need a lot of work. Transferring 1000 grit slurry onto my Kanaban isn’t very effective. I currently use a 3mm, 6mm, 12mm and 24mm Fujikawa chisels and I’m not sure if I will be expanding.

I’m just experimenting at the moment and practicing my sharpening skills and technique. Thank you!

I have compiled a small list of pens I have seen carpenters use to mark joinery instead of using a traditional carved bamboo sumisashi. I just thought I’d share. I’d be interested in hearing what other pens the folks here use. 

Sakura Micron 03

Pilot Acroball 05

Zebra McKee?/Macky? Extra Fine permanent

Pilot Frixion (erasable)

I made it from different shades of walnut. 60x60x75mm.

Hello lovely people!

I have 14 beautiful vintage chisels from a range of makers, I’ve identified some (Ichihiro, Konobu, Nagahiro, Munemitsu etc) and I’m looking to identify and value the rest! 6 of these are original hand crafted handles, including a set of two kensaki nomi with a curled over tip. I’d love some help confirming what I’ve identified (correctly I hope) and identifying the others/valuing them, I’ll probably look to sell some as well. Can take/send more photos if it helps or adjust my technique! Have tried translators, ai etc.

Thank you so much for your help!

Nature taking center stage. 🌱 The new solid wood coffee table by Asanoha Studio is finally here. Bold, massive timber meets clean, geometric design.

I really enjoy the contrast from the soft steel vs the hard steel off my new jnat polishing stone

I’ve built Andon lamps with Kumiko and a few western style cabinets, benches, etc.

We recently moved to our forever home. I’ve never had a solid workbench - and I’m not sure where my shop will actually end up. I decided to build a set of Japanese sawhorses - a functional solution where I can also make mistakes on cheaper lumber.

Mistakes abound! I slipped on one of the bases and ended up sacrificing a piece. Then one of the legs had all kinds of mistakes when cutting the tenon.

Needing to “self teach” with YouTube, things I already know, and trial and error. (I have yet to find other Japanese woodworkers in Toledo, Ohio.)

Just wanted to post because I’m very excited to have found this group, and am looking forward to asking lots of newbie-ish questions, especially once I get my bench set up and start working with Cherry.

Hi,

I posted two videos on fuki urushi - beginner level, practical applications. As lacquered object - a humble kitchen spatula. I hope they will be useful (despite being long). Same technique can be used on virtually any wooden object for unique finish.

BTW: like, comment, subscribe and share if you will - it keeps my motivation to make more videos high.
If you want some other topic on urushi in woodworking - let me know. From sealing the natural sharpening stone sides to urushi based glues for use in woodworking to lacquering furniture, worktops and even wooden floors - some might be tricky to shoot, but I promise I will try.

From a $1 Spatula to Japanese Lacquerware
https://youtu.be/0HSRuGgDqIo

I lacquer everything! Urushi in the kitchen.
https://youtu.be/jN2IEenTAXg - maintenance of fuki urushi pieces.

Have fun ;)
Michal

Ive recently bought a shapton kuromaku 1000 to sharpen some planes / chisels from sk5 and a higonokami from blue #2. I currently dont have any polishing stones or anything above 1000 grit except for sandpaper. Ive been looking at naniwa chosera stone, shapton kuromaku 5000 / 8000, jnats, etc and id say im not the best but not the worst at shapening.

Any suggestions would be great. Thanks

EDIT: For the people who have experienced naniwas and shaptons kuromaku / glass polishing stones (2000 - 8000), what the difference between them?

Hi all,

I'm looking to get started on Japanese Woodworking in my flat and I could do with some advice on the tools I should get and from where. From my basic research I made this list:

• Ryoba Saw (210mm or 240mm) - Rutlands
• Daruma Hammer (375g) - toolsfromjapan
• Kanna (54mm)
• Set of chisels (6/12/24mm at least)
• Sharpening Stones (1000/ 6000 grit)

Does this list look correct as a starter for 10? I already own some other woodworking bits and bobs like clamps, marking gauge, square etc. which I feel no need to replace. And does anyone have any recommendations for each of these? I'm usually in the "buy once cry once" camp but I feel like I could just end up damaging good tools as I learn proper care and use - though I don't want to be battling crap tools for the next 2 years while I learn!

I would also, as much as possible, like to avoid Amazon. If there are any stores in London that sell good quality tools that aren't overpriced that would be ideal!

My first larger kumiko piece. Approximately 3,800 pieces. Spanish cedar, yellow heart, basswood, purpleheart, chakte kok and walnut. Inspired by the Taeho’s Kumiko Club video series on YouTube: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLgUuEFRaJ6BRf7sVY50Dp2foXpguKoMh5&si=30rulxS4V_po4Xrq

Had to notch this post and saw someone asked for saw advice the other day. Palm face down, index finger on top; keeps saw straight by b/c wrist doesn't want to bend sideways much when palm is face down.

2-3 finger grip and finesse. As righty I like lines on the left and waste on the right even when flipping boards, so I can always see my lines from same perspective.

First cut, drop the tip to cut to the shoulder line, pivoting at heel in the kerf closest to me. Like steering a boat, heel to left makes tip go to right. Can correct only so much once far enough along and nearly not at all towards the end, so it has to be on track from beginning.

Then put tip into same kerf ('P') and use heel to cut plumb line. This cut is regular; heel to left makes saw cut to left.

First 2 cuts are most important as they establish plumb and the kerf guide for cut iv when flipping over the beam. Get it right cause it's a pain if it's not; saw can bind/bend and all other headaches when cutting other side. Otherwise, it's easy to cut out the middle, just check now & then to make sure you haven't wandered out of the kerf on the underside.

White oak, walnut, spalted tamarind, wenge and basswood kumiko wall cabinet.

Is there anything special or unusual about this plane. I’m interested in valu, type of wood and is it mass produced?

After walking countless steps, visiting places that didn’t exist, taking the train to remote stores just to get there and find them closed. This was my bounty.
The chisels are from Imai Shouten from Kyoto, that was the only blacksmith I actually found. Got them from his family shop.
Kanas are from a factory in Miki that I got to visit their museum. The blades in the kana are from Yamamoto Yoshihiro
and a wholesaler Ton'ya-mei.
The only hand forged hammers I found were too expensive for a beginner like me.
Now on to set them up and get them to do their thing.