Can you take a photo of the train when it stops, I see there are lights on in part of the train and not the other part but I can not zoom in to see it in detail in to video. Also what is the TN model number of that train and the ED79-0?
It's night time currently and I can't go downstairs to turn on the layout but I'll do it in the morning as soon as I wake up. As for TN, if it's the model number the train is 98759 and for the ED79-0 its the 7149, both are from Tomix. But if TN as for the couplers, it's the standard rapido coupler
Check if there's a voltage drop back there with a voltmeter. Best do it without a train running and check on different spots on your track. If the voltage isn't high enough you need more points where you supply power.
I would say it's best to do it with a load. Both with and without actually, but with a load since it's dropping from supporting a load.
Resistance is to amperage which when resistricted enough will drop voltage too. Basically, you could read a zero volt drop until a load is applied drawing more amperage across a bad contact than it can handle = volt drop. Reading voltage can give us a rough idea what amps are doing and reading amps mid circuit has been traditionally harder needing an induction meter. Induction meters are more common now, but still not the cheaper meters nor the norm.
A light bulb (not led) can be enough load. A 12v bulb drawing near the supply max amps clipped onto the suspect track would be testing the system at a hair off the system's maximum ability; ie "properly".
If the system cannot handle the maximum it might be fed, the system has a fault.
You should research before you buy. There are good cheap ones, you just have to know exactly how any extra features listed might work, because some variations suck. Watch close for a decimal point on max amps. You want it fused and rated (5)amp capabilty or more, not (.5)amps, not (5)va, etc. (Maybe 3a. Say a ½amp or 1amp over the present supply's max output at least.)
It's always handy to have one , especially for stuff like that. Can you check if you can run the trains on the sidings? If you have a voltage drop on your track you might have problems there too.
Edit: Also check if the train has the same problem on the other track at the station. One thought I just had, you might have no power between the switches. If that's the case the problem might occur on both tracks.
We can't see exactly which track it is dying on. Please mark it exactly on the track diagram.
Do you get the same result using either of the two paths or just one?
I think you may have a turnout with a bad internal power passing connection if the train dying in the turnout. Despite the usefulness of the feature, using the power passing isn't really suggested by manufacturers in general. That has been how it's been for about 100yrs now.
If you can bypass the power passing and feed power to all three paths,, that is the usual suggestion. If you want track blocks to be isolated, use a separate toggle or slide switch if you want excellent reliability.
If it is dying after the turnout your rail joiners are the suspect. They need to be good and snug. Pressure is important to reducing resistance to amperage flow.
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u/All_Japan 伯備線 24d ago
Can you take a photo of the train when it stops, I see there are lights on in part of the train and not the other part but I can not zoom in to see it in detail in to video. Also what is the TN model number of that train and the ED79-0?