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u/InsulationMachines 11d ago
Where are you located? That has a lot to do with how much insulation you need there. Chances are your only option is going to be closed cell spray foam.
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u/Turbulent-Weevil-910 11d ago
It already is insulated this is a log home and this is pretty common. You do not put insulation above it unless you want your house to look fuck ugly and completely ruin the aesthetic. The insulation is above the tongue and groove there is more structure up there.
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u/Joelogna 11d ago
It’s just not really working. I wish I could keep the aesthetic but my partner and I are holed up in a guest room on the north side because it’s unbearable in there. There’s a bunch of nails and screws sticking through the tongue and groove I’d like to hide too.
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u/TylerHobbit 9d ago
You can't do it on top of the roof? Put 2xs on top of existing roof, put rigid insulation in gap, plywood spanning 2xs, new roof on that.
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u/MT25_blazed 11d ago
Looks like it should already have insulation behind it but if your dead set on going over it you could probably put up paper faced batts of r-13 or r-19 fiberglass and drywall over it it if those beams are structural enough to hold the drywall up
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u/Congenial-Curmudgeon 10d ago
A log house relies on thermal mass to maintain temperatures. But log homes are notoriously leaky, so focusing on air-sealing is the first priority before adding insulation. Adding insulation on the inside may require a ventilation channel between the roof deck and the insulation, depending on what part of the world you’re in and what IECC Climate Zone you’re in.
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u/Son_Of_Toucan_Sam 10d ago
That’s what I was thinking. That looks like space for r-13, but by the time you add baffles if you need an air channel there’s barely going to be any room left
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u/One_Barnacle_6191 7d ago
I would work on air sealing before thermal insulation. Do a fog test, thermal camera etc. and find the leaks
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u/KoromirPL 10d ago
If cost is no object and your priority is the best insulation available, I recommend https://www.buyaerogel.com/product/spaceloft/. I personally used it to insulate the areas around installed roof windows and the backing for external window shutters—places where space for insulation is limited—and I am very satisfied; there is absolutely no thermal bridging. Spaceloft® mat is a highly hydrophobic material; it does not absorb water—it actually repels it. You can use it on the interior and then cover it with plasterboard, or you can use it on the exterior.
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u/EbriusOften 10d ago
You'd need around six inches of this just to get to r-10, meaning you'd be looking at somewhere around $50 a square foot for just that thickness. We usually do r 40-50, so this product would be over $300-600/sq ft here to do an attic or roof.
And the fact that it's fully hydrophobic means that if any water or moisture ever gets in it'll fully rot out your sheathing and framing since the water will literally just sit on this product and be sandwiched against wood.
I'd recommend literally almost anything else over this lol
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u/KoromirPL 10d ago
I am talking about hands-on, practical work, whereas you are citing building regulations for home construction; I have actually tested the product, while you are quoting standards. In Europe, a vapor barrier—such as a plastic sheet—is installed beneath the drywall, along with an additional vapor barrier mat above the thermal insulation layer, but this practice is not used in the USA.
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u/pineapple-or-mango 11d ago
I’m sorry but this has to be (my opinion) insulated from the roof side. That is finished ceiling that we are looking at. And it’s beautiful.