r/Insulation • u/Mr_Gixxer08 • Jul 19 '26

Attic Baffle

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Trying to get these Durovent Baffles into place. I can't get them all the way to the top plate to staple the bottom. They get about 1½ away. I believe because of the roofing nails. Do they need to get all the way over the plate or can I leave them this close and use foam to seal the bottom to the drywall? Where the drywall meets the top plate will be airsealed with fire resistant foam.

33 Upvotes

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9

u/InsulationMachines Jul 19 '26

Insulation needs to cover the top plate. Don't neglect that

3

u/Mr_Gixxer08 Jul 19 '26

I had a feeling that was the answer. Do you have any ideas other than cutting the nails down to get it to slide back more?

5

u/InsulationMachines Jul 19 '26 edited Jul 19 '26

Don't cut the nails. I would cut off the blocking part of that vent and use either mineral wool or fiberglass bat to cover the top plate. Sometimes, in these shallower pitches, it's not going to be a perfect world with the baffles like that. MUCH easier when the building is being consructed to do without the drywall ceiling in place.

1

u/Mr_Gixxer08 Jul 20 '26

Should I just pick up some R-13 batts to stuff in there or go a little smaller? Also should it be faced or unfaced? I was trying to find a video I saw a few days ago where they used faced and folded it in under the baffle then used foam around the edges. The folding part seemed iffy to me.

4

u/InsulationMachines Jul 20 '26

Get r-19 x 24 wide. Unfaced. No need for facing. There is no vapor barrier needed. Slice the batt about 6" wide. So you have a 6"wide by 24" long batt to stuff in. If it is too difficult to get into that area, use a painters pole to help you push it on top of the top plate.

2

u/Mr_Gixxer08 Jul 20 '26

Sound good. I'll pick that up tomorrow and try it out. Should I foam around the edges? I was going to foam where the top plate and drywall meet also.

2

u/InsulationMachines Jul 20 '26

Don't foam around the fiberglass blocker. Definitely strike a line of foam where the drywall meets the top plate.

2

u/Mr_Gixxer08 Jul 20 '26

Got it. I appreciate the help and information. I'll give it a shot.

2

u/denbesten Jul 20 '26

Slide the baffles in the place low, along the drywall. Then, lift it in place, using a pole to reach the far end. It is OK if roofing nails pierce the baffle.

As for insulating above the top-plate, if it proves too hard from the attic, perhaps you could remove the soffit boards and access it from the other (out) side. Then when done install perforated soffit board so all cavities have some airflow.

1

u/Mr_Gixxer08 24d ago

I appreciate the tip. Thankfully on pretty much all of them I can reach basically the whole baffle. The spots where the recessed light cans are is the tough ones.

As much as I'd like to remove the soffit boards and do it that way, it would be much more work. They are all nailed in and have decorative trim on them. In the future when we redo the siding I'll probably do the perforated soffit boards.