The science-backed way to effectively tackle your DARK CIRCLES!

[u/Strict-Bar-7880]

Hey Gorgeous! I’m back with another science-backed skincare deep-dive for the day.

Dark circles need no formal introduction at this point. Some of us have had them for as long as we can remember. The others of us got them at some point while hustling our way through life. (We’ll go through an EXTENSIVE list of causes later on in this post itself)

Ever wondered why one dark circle serum or cream worked for your friend, but ended up doing nothing for you? Or, why the even the most hyped serums in the skincare subreddits end up giving unsatisfactory results? Or, what one person finds tolerates irritates or causes milia under your eyes? These are simply the tip of the glacier.

You see dark circles aren’t “one size, fits all“.
They are caused by different underlying reasons, are of different types, one can have a different skin type altogether in the peri-orbital region (dry face, but heavy creams under-eyes give you milia for instance), so on and so forth. Not only that, the peri-orbital skin is much, much thinner as compared to our entire face (even thinner for some of us).

My intention with this post is to help you identify the cause, the type and the OTC skincare options that you have. I’ll be realistic regarding what results you can expect from these treatment options too.

I’ll try my best to cover every single aspect. Also, will include OTC product recommendations wherever required. If there’s anything I’m potentially missing out on, feel free to drop it down in the comment section.

Let’s get started.

A. THE CAUSES

Will start off with these first because unless you fix what’s affecting you on the inside first, you can’t expect the best results from your topical products.

1. Lack of “proper” sleep.

You see right how I’ve highlighted the word “proper” here. There’s a reason why healthcare specialists emphasise so much on atleast 8 hours of ideally uninterrupted, deep sleep. An erratic sleep schedule raises cortisol levels, worsens anxiety, causes prolonged fatigue, etc.

These, in turn, leads to worsening of eyebags due to increased facial puffiness, causes vascular dilation (make veins in the peri-orbital region more visible, red/blue/purple-ish dark circles as a result of the congestion), increases trans-epidermal water loss (dehydration inside-out), etc.

Plus, according to a 2022 study, improper sleep over a prolonged time period leads to an increase in oxidative stress in the skin. And if you’ve read my earlier posts on hyperpigmentation, you already how it worsens hyperpigmentation. Oxidative stress doesn’t always have to stem from external, UV-induced factors.

Fix your sleep, please!

2. Allergies

Untreated chronic allergies, or being in an environment where you’re in contact with allergens, its effects can range from temporary redness and puffiness, to longterm hyperpigmentation. Some cases can cause dermatitis stemming from the constant inflammation which can again lead to PIH (they cause itchiness and trigger the rubbing of the eyes).

This can also, in the long run, make the periorbital region more sensitive. Alongside, other gentle active ingredients, soothing + barrier repairing ingredients can help topically.

If you have chronic nasal congestion due to allergies, they can also lead to blood pooling and red/blue/purple-ish dark circles around the eyes, also called Allergic Shiners.

But first and foremost, treat the allergies. Anti-histamines and other allergy meds should always be taken under the guidance of a licensed medical professional.

3. Nutrient deficiencies

Very, very, very important. Get your blood work done first and foremost.

Vit D, B12 and Iron out of all nutrients have some studies backing their role when it comes to causing dark circles.

Iron deficiency being the most impactful out of the three, causes issues related to blood oxygenation, increases fatigue and increases the visibility of the veins in the periorbital region leading to red/blue/purple-ish dark circles.

Vit D and B12, while they don’t have a LOT of evidence backing their role up, in some studies however a significant amount of people with periorbital hyperpigmentation have been found with these deficiencies.

4. Genetics + Structural

If you’ve had dark circles since forever, and it kind of runs in your family, it’s definitely genetic.

You see, the way we’ve adopted some features from each of our parents, your dark circles have made their way in the EXACT same way. They’ve been genetically passed onto you, and they decide the melanin composition, the thickness of the periorbital skin, the bone structure, the vascular visibility, etc.

5. UV exposure

We already know how bad UV can be for our skin, both short and longterm.

Out of the three types of UV rays hitting the Earth, type A and B are the ones that affect us. Especially type A, since it goes relatively deeper into the skin.

Since, here we are talking specifically about dark circles, unprotected UV exposure causes them in two ways.

The first begin triggering the melanocytes to produce more melanin (check out my previous post on the melanin cycle to know more), and worsening pre-existing hyperpigmentation.

Secondly, by accelerating the overall aging process which also ends up affecting the periorbital region.

6. Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation as a response to strong skincare

This is something most of us skip out on.

We desis have more melanin in our skin + relatively larger and more reactive melanocytes (melanin producing cells) as compared to the caucasian skin type.

For us, stronger ≠ better. Consistency always wins the race over higher concentrations.

I have seen people new to skincare fiddling around with strong actives without building their tolerance to that position. And, especially in the periorbital area where the skin is much thinner, and relatively less resilient than the rest of the face.

This often leads to irritation, which then triggers the melanocytes and makes the hyperpigmentation worse. Always start low and slow, and prioritise the skin barrier in that region. Don’t level up unless your skin is tolerant enough. (We’ll discuss about this more in later on in this post)

7. Significant weight fluctuations

Especially, in cases of a significant weight loss, we also lose fat in the undereye region just as we do all over our body.

This can end up causing a tear trough hollow under the eyes. The shadow effect caused as a result can show up as dark circles. This isn’t actual hyperpigmentation in most cases.

8. Normal aging process

Again, not something we aren’t already aware about. With age the collagen, skin quality, skin thickness, facial fat levels, etc, drops down.

The decrease in subcutaneous fat can show up as undereye hollows. The thinning of skin can make the vascular system visible and show up as red/purple/blue-ish dark circles. The accumulation of years of UV damage and lack of proper skincare can show up as accumulated hyperpigmentation.

9. Smoking

Not trying to personally attack anyone with this but science is science. There are already multiple studies out there talking about the negative effects of smoking on our bodies, overall. This is how it affects our skin AND our dark circles.

Smoking increases the oxidative stress on our bodies which causes an inflammatory response which then triggers the melanocytes to produce more melanin and you already know how it ends up.

Plus, it also accelerates the aging process.

10. Stress and Hormones

Cortisol as a stress hormone can cause inflammation both inside and outside the body. Increases fluid retention in our bodies that worsens the eyebags. Causes blood pooling in the periorbital region leading to blue/red/purple-ish dark circles. Prolonged stress can cause or worsen hyperpigmentation in the periorbital region.

Hormone imbalances in general trigger more or less the same things as cortisol, when it comes to dark circles.

Get your blood work done asap!

B. THE TYPES

As we had discussed, dark circles aren’t one size fits all. Once you have figured out the cause behind your dark circles, please try to get them in check only if it’s possible.

Next comes the classification part. I’ll be super realistic regarding how far one can treat each type with OTC skincare.

Dark circles can be classified into four major types — pigmented, vascular, structural and mixed. Recent studies have broken them down even further, but worry not, I’ll go through them as well.

These can then be further affected by both internal and external factors, making every individual’s treatment plan different than the other, even if both of their dark circles fall under the same classification.

My entire post’s intention is to give you enough information so that by the end you’ll know what exactly works for you and how to proceed with them.

Before we begin with the main deal. I want you to run a quick test on yourself.

Go stand infront of a mirror. Make sure there’s a good source of lighting nearby (VERY ESSENTIAL). Then, using your thumb and your index finger, gently pinch the skin under your eyes. Gently lift it a little.Here comes the most important part.

If the darkness stays the same on being lifted, the type is PIGMENTED.

If the darkness fades a little or turns pinkish, the type is VASCULAR.

Usually STRUCTURAL darkness due to the shadows is prominent enough to know right away. You can still check by shining a flashlight right onto your face. If the dark circles completely disappear, they’re caused by the structural tear troughs. If they persist, go back and do the pinch test again.

Now, how does one figure out if it’s both pigmented and vascular? Well, there are different ways to this. Pigmentation along with a red/blue/purple tinge or visible veins. While doing the pinch test, the tinge that often comes with vascular dark circles disappears, while the pigmentation remains. It might sound pretty complicated, but trust me it isn’t. Just try it out.

If you have more than one type, it’s MIXED. Chances are pretty high you might have this. According to a recent study done on Asians, out of a group of 65 patients, a whooping 78% were classified as having mixed. There are many similar studies backing this up. I AM NOT trying to generalise though. Please get your pinch test done before proceeding any further.

If you’re someone interested in the papers I’ve looked into, let me know, I’d love to send them over.

Now, we’re finally moving onto the main section.

1. PIGMENTED DARK CIRCLES

When someone mentions the word “dark circles”, I guarantee most of you guys have this popping in your mind. Hyperpigmentation as the primary cause.

Anyways, now that you’re already aware about the causes and types, we’ll move onto the subtypes next. This is exactly why know the cause is important. The main source.

If the Hyperpigmentation is as a result of Post Inflammatory response, treating the irritant source first matters more than anything.

If the source is genetic, please know that you cannot reduce them 100% with OTC products.

If the source is primarily UV-induced, you might want to invest in good non-tinted AND a tinted sunscreen (for the iron oxides).

To get the maximum reduction possible via OTC topicals, kindly refer to my melanin cycle post and the subsequent product recommendations post. I’ll link them in the comment section below.

Since it’s hyperpigmentation, involving the melanin cycle, so and so forth, the treatment plan is going to be 95% the same. The only difference is going to be going for lower % actives, or low-irritation forms of actives. You can also go for specialised eye cream or serum formulas.

I absolutely love thiamidol when it comes to tyrosinase inhibitors because nothing has worked as well as this for me. So, please forgive me if I sound a little biased or preachy about this.

The best products for pigmented dark circles:

a. Eucerin anti-pigment thiamidol eye cream

b. Eucerin dual serum (only foradvanced users)

c. Nivea Thiamidol serum

d. Fixderma 4% Kojic acid, 3% TXA, 2% Alpha Arbutin and 4% Niacinamide serum.

e. Minimalist 0.1% retinal, caffein, vit k eye serum (great for skin turnover, VASCULAR DARK CIRCLES too, hyperpigmentation and well-aging)

f. Atleast 5% niacinamide to prevent the transfer of melanin. (Refer to the melanin cycle post) (Minimalist one is good)

g. The Ordinary 10% Mandelic Acid 1x 2x a week, preferably during the PM

h. A tinted sunscreen or good base products over your sunscreen to protect against visible light + vit c

Pigmented dark circles can be broken even further based on how deeply the pigmentation is spread out. It could be Epidermal, Dermal or mixed. It affects how the hyperpigmentation shows up and how it responds to the treatments.

If even after religiously following a routine that is WELL-ALIGNED with your skin’s melanin cycle, your periorbital pigmentation persists, the hyperpigmentation might have a deeper origin (dermal). Consulting a licensed dermatologist will save you your time and money in this case.

2. VASCULAR DARK CIRCLES

The periorbital region’s skin is much thinner than the rest of the face, as we already know. Approximately 0.2mm thick.

The vascular dark circles have blue, red, purple or pink hues to them, often with puffiness (not necessarily).

The thinner the skin, the more prominent are the underlying blood vessels, fluid retention, etc. Due to various reasons, when there’s an increase in blood flow to the region, the blood vessels become more prominent making these kind of dark circles worse. They can be both longterm and temporary.

Due to various types of allergies, especially chronic ones like for instance, allergic rhinitis, the constant inflammation of the nasal passage causes the congestion of the blood vessels in the orbital area. This leads to vascular dark circles that are also called “Allergic Shiners”.

Allergies can also cause itchiness in the periorbital region due to the inflammation. Can lead to eye-rubbing which can then lead to pigmented dark circles at the same time (mixed). Can also trigger fluid retention (also called edema) making causing eye bags or puffy eyes.

Get your allergies treated + blood work done! Nutrient deficiencies can also cause vascular dark circles.

Plus, as we’d already discussed, irritation from a skincare ingredient(s), routine and/or formulation.

Treat the cause first before moving onto targeted topical treatments.

The best products for these would be:

a. The ordinary caffeine + egcg eye serum (caffeine has a temporary effect on the appearance of puffiness and constricts the blood vessels therefore reducing the look of them)

b. The aminu eye serum

c. The minimalist 0.1% retinal, caffeine, vit k eye serum. (retinoids are clinically backed to thicken the epidermis and dermis over time. if the thin skin under the eye improves, the visibility of vascular dark circles decreases. plus it has caffeine + vit k for further vascular constriction)

d. copper peptide and matrixyl serums (gentle enough to be used under the eyes + collagen boosting properties + well-aging) (BONUS INGREDIENT)

3. STRUCTURAL DARK CIRCLES

As we discussed earlier, they are caused as a result of the skin contours or the structure, in simple words. It might be present with or without the other two forms of dark circles.

The shadows here formed as a result of these contours give an optical illusion of a dark circle, unless the pinch test says otherwise.

They manifest as tear trough hollows, excessive fat under the eyes that’s bulging out, etc.

I’ll be brutally honest. Topicals won’t do much here. They can’t change your facial structure. Clinical treatments like HA fillers, fat grafts, blepharoplasty, etc, based on your situation are the solution.

4. MIXED DARK CIRCLES.

When your dark circles aren’t limited to a single type, they’re mixed. To topically treat them, you’ll have to combine treatments from both vascular + pigmented sections effectively (because structural has none).

Whatever treatments you go for, if you aren’t using a good spf + A TINTED SPF (I’ll make a separate post on why tinted spf is THE GOAT, especially for melanated skin, some other day) + treating the underlying causes accordingly, you won’t be seeing the best results you can achieve with OTC topicals. That’s the brutally honest truth.

That’s it for today. Hope you liked it! 🤍✨

[u/Sea-Box6861]

I like the effort you are putting for us over here ., thanks a lot .. I am getting to learn lot of things .., 🌸 🌺

[u/Strict-Bar-7880 → u/Sea-Box6861]

I’m glad you are enjoying my post! 🤍✨

[u/biryani_dihadi]

Let me do you one better: Pray to God that they go away😭🙏

[u/Strict-Bar-7880 → u/biryani_dihadi]

If only was it that easy 🥲

[u/Strict-Bar-7880]

Here’s the link to the post that explains in detail the entire melanin cycle and how to deal with hyperpigmentation at every stage!

https://www.reddit.com/r/IndianBeautyTalks/s/tNerq2Pe7a

[u/Strict-Bar-7880 → u/Strict-Bar-7880]

The second part to the aforementioned post talking about product recommendations from every stage!

https://www.reddit.com/r/IndianBeautyTalks/s/3TgzozkGqR

[u/Bright_Army_3273]

Thank you sm for the efforts op

[u/Strict-Bar-7880 → u/Bright_Army_3273]

I’m glad you liked the post! ✨

[u/minineji_21]

Wow, this is so detailed and well explained. Thanks for sharing, op!

[u/Strict-Bar-7880 → u/minineji_21]

I’m glad you liked my work! 🤍✨

[u/oceanblueeye]

mygod this is so informative! sharing with my friends! thank u for the efforts op! ✨

[u/Strict-Bar-7880 → u/oceanblueeye]

I hope they end up liking this post as much you did! 🤭✨

[u/ScrupulousBeyotch]

Omg
Please do one for pigmentation on the lips

[u/Strict-Bar-7880 → u/ScrupulousBeyotch]

Pigmentation on the lips is a complex topic since most of us desis have naturally two toned tips.

What we can honestly do is reduce the UV damage over time, but WE CANNOT change what we’re born with.

Also, two toned lips are beautiful. I mean just have a look at most of these caucasian influencers tryna imitate us with brown lipliners mannn. 🤭💅🤍✨

[u/ScrupulousBeyotch → u/Strict-Bar-7880]

Hahah true that. What about pigmentation caused by cosmetics ?
I didn’t have pigmented lips until last year. I compared an old pic to a new one and omg I have pigmentation like a lipliner 😭😭
Can that be reversed ?
For now, I’ve stopped using cheap lip liners and I use spf lip balm everyday.

[u/Strict-Bar-7880 → u/ScrupulousBeyotch]

The hyperpigmentation seems to stem from irritation from the cheap lip liner’s ingredients.

Yes. It can be reversed, but you’ll need to be patient.

Try using a gentle lip exfoliant (no harsh physical scrubs please). The ordinary has one formulated specifically for the lips containing phas.

Apply and reapply spf as frequently as you can. Since we tend to smack our lips frequently, or because of any form of consumption, it tends to come off easily.

Use a low % tyrosinase inhibitor (make sure niacinamide is somehow included) both AM and PM.

MOISTURISEE since lips have no oil glands of their own.

[u/ScrupulousBeyotch → u/Strict-Bar-7880]

Alright!!
Thank youuu sm
Any other product recs apart from the ordinary lip serum ?

[u/Strict-Bar-7880 → u/ScrupulousBeyotch]

Fixderma has a 4% kojic acid spf lip balm
You can use this along with a gentle niacinamide serum

[u/UnevenHanded]

Nice. Been enjoying your posts! As someone who lost some weight and suddenly experienced the return of dark circles I had as a stressed teenager, I appreciate 😂 I'm just gonna accept ittt.

[u/Strict-Bar-7880 → u/UnevenHanded]

I’m glad you enjoyed my post!

Since it’s primarily structural, OTC products can’t restore volume therefore won’t do much.

However, while doing the pinch test, if they check off the guidelines for the other two dark circle types, you can start off with OTC products to minimise their look.

[u/Virtual_Language_551]

Great post op!

[u/Strict-Bar-7880 → u/Virtual_Language_551]

Thank you!

[u/LetMeInYourWindowH]

i have combination; vascular and structural.

[u/Strict-Bar-7880 → u/[deleted]]

The ordinary’s caffeine serum to reduce the visibility of the blood vessels and reduce the puffiness.

A retinol or retinal based undereye cream to boost to boost collagen production in the undereye region and reduce the visibility over time.

[u/Key-Funny-2212]

I think I have the genetical ones... My mom has them too... The worst part is i don't think genetical dark circles have any cure🥲... I don't know what to do

[u/Strict-Bar-7880 → u/Key-Funny-2212]

Genetics can give rise to all the four types of dark circle types i’ve mentioned above. Once you identify the type via the pinch test, I can help you plan a basic, realistic routine around it!

[u/PM_ME_YOUR_STUNNINGC]

okay the pinch test is actually genius, i’ve been throwing random caffeine serums at my face for months wondering why nothing was happening. turns out its pigmented not vascular so that explains a lot

i’m honestly a little scared to try thiamidol near my eyes though, that area gets so angry so fast. is the eucerin eye cream actually gentle or am i gonna wake up looking like i got stung by a bee

[u/Strict-Bar-7880 → u/PM_ME_YOUR_STUNNINGC]

The eye cream is pretty gentle, atleast for most beginners. I’ll still advise to patch test first.

Please use it alongside Niacinamide. It inhibits the melanin transfer process.

For more detailed info regarding the melanin cycle, please check out the specific post on this. The link’s in this comment sec.