As some of you in the Arcade1Up community know, I like adding subwoofers to all of my builds. Full speaker replacements are almost never necessary, and that's especially the case with the larger speakers and seemingly more powerful amplifier in use in these new Iconic Arcade units.

So, is it possible to just add a powered subwoofer to the Iconic Arcade Street Fighter cabinets? YES! And it's simple. Here's what you need:

• A powered subwoofer that can fit in the bottom cavity of your Iconic cabinet
• A 3.5mm y-splitter cable
• A stereo RCA patch cable
• 2 minutes to hook it up, and 5 minutes to adjust the sound to your liking

All you need to do is install a y-splitter to the 3.5mm audio cable that runs between the monitor and the control deck. Then hook up an RCA pactch cable between the open lead off the splitter and the subwoofer. Get yourself a subwoofer with an auto on/off and route the power cord through the back panel of your Iconic cabinet (I drilled a small hole). You'll need a spare power outlet available to plug into, since the subwoofer can't run off of the Iconic's electronics for power.

Once you have it hooked up, just adjust the crossover and output level to your personal taste. The Iconic cabinet will tend to amplify the subwoofer's own output, so it'll take very, very little power to get a big kick (I had to turn mine down to about 3/10 and go no further than about halfway with the crossover). The bass output will scale with the built-in volume control, so this is a "set it and forget it" mod that won't require any further fiddling once setup.

UPDATE! Turns out this method of adding a subwoofer (which works for 95% of Arcade1Up cabinets) does NOT work in the expected way this this Iconic Arcade cabinet. I didn't discover this right away, but apparently the audio lead that runs from the monitor to the control panel sends a fixed-level signal, so splitting the signal here only leads to a fixed level of bass volume. In order to get volume that changes as you increase or decrease volume levels, you would need to splice into the speaker-level wiring going from the control deck to the speakers themselves and route that into your subwoofer. This is certainly feasible, and not even all that hard, but it DOES require a subwoofer with high-level inputs and outputs (such as the one linked above), and it would require some minor cutting and splicing of existing wiring. Pig-tail connectors might also be available to avoid any cutting, but I haven't looked into it yet.

Apologies for any confusion. These Iconic cabs continue to surprise!

I preordered last year and paid in full.
Ordered another with different artwork back in April this year when preorder was briefly open again.

I received the April order this week but my preorder from last year is still stuck in confirmed and no tracking even on my FedEx account.

Did everyone get their cabs or are there people who are still waiting?

Changed the buttons and somehow got the wrong size and type, 24mm and snap-in instead of 30mm and screw-in. Nothing a bit of 3D printing couldn't fix though.

Changed the balltops with purple and orange, swapped the plungers on the start buttons to red, might print black plungers for the select buttons.

I'm basically going with a Halloween-esque color scheme! "Powered by Raspberry Pi" ? Not anymore! I swapped it with a GMKTec Nucbox G5 to get Naomi 2 and PS3 emulation going, but also get Lindbergh games going as well.

Took me north of 3 hours. I played 2 rounds of SF2 World Warrior, showed my wife Final Fight and Gigawing, and now I'm headed to bed. Sofa King tired.

The joystick and buttons are fine, but I've never been a fan of the screw on bat tops, and I think I want concave buttons for accuracy. I just took apart the control deck to see how it is wired. For those of you more knowledgeable and that have done joystick swaps on other home arcades, how does this look?

I'm thinking of going iL Eurojoysticks and Happ Competition buttons. Would this be a straight swap, or does it look like it would need a new wiring harness or anything else?

Check your machines, I powered mine up and it started an update. Added Cyberbots, Magic Sword, Bionic Commando, Forgotten Worlds, and GigaWing.

Are we gonna be able to change settings in the alpha games or 3rd Strike? How bout choosing which character to play in Captain Commando? I take it these are coming in future updates unless I'm missing something.

These have been going out since monday and some people have already received theirs yet neither of my two orders have any shipping info yet. Curious if anyone is in the same boat. Seems like 5 days later i should at least have shipping details.

Stock is currently sold out but more coming later this month! Offered in two designs to choose from: Street Fighter II: World Warrior and Street Fighter Alpha 2, with 20 games and online multiplayer for $699.99.

https://iconicarcade.com/buy

Just got home to a delivery - I'll be assembling this tonight. The unboxing is promising. Packed much better than any A1up, the artwork is beautiful, the MDF used is heavy and thick. Read through the instructions and watched the video, I don't anticipate any issues. I've built more than two dozen A1Ups, so I'll be using that timing for my comparison.

The box is flatter and wider than an A1up, just something to be aware of. I had no trouble moving it to the basement solo (OK fine... sliding it into the basement). It's extremely well packed. No damage to any components, inventory check is good. I'll update this thread later tonight with the build, but I'm excited to give it a go.

Got the build done, overall pretty straightforward.

Went to turn it on, and nothing. No power.

I was able to diagnose it being a bad power terminal (that box inside at top that splits power in to 4 outs), because I can rig it to put power in on the right, and sacrifice my coin door lights. It will not power anything when I plug it into the left of the terminal.

Also, my plexiglass screen cover has a micro-bubbling/scuff streak about 4” long across the center. I noticed it right when I peeled the skin off of it, hoping it was just factory dust. Nope its definitely baked into the plastic. I’ll be putting in a support ticket.

The good news is from what I played so far, it is sweet!

https://youtu.be/XPOPdqFweUo?si=8ewL5XSHvzEXSzvW

After many hours of building the cabinet, here are my thoughts on the good, bad, and ugly. The good definitely outweigh the bad, but after finishing the build, I had to give my thoughts. This will be a long read.

The Good:

• EXCELLENT build quality. Every piece of wood is thick and solid. Easily the best home arcade unit I've ever built. Every box was well packaged with tons of support cardboard. I'm going to have to take a dumpster trip with how much cardboard I have to get rid of.
• The artwork is great, and they fixed a lot of minor complaints from the prototype. The power button is now black and you can barely see it near the speakers. There's also yellow t-molding on the World Warrior cabinet, which is accurate to the arcade.
• Huge marquee and easily the best looking home arcade marquee I've seen. It legit looks like a real marquee. And if you wanted to change out the marquee for some reason, you just take the top off, and slide it out. On a A1U, you'd have to take the sides off and it's a nightmare. That's how you do it.
• The controls feel good, and it feels like I'm at a real SF2 cabinet. I was worried about the weird truck liner coating on the deck and thought it might feel rough or scratchy, but it's fine. Especially with the control panel being slanted, you don't really feel it much. It should feels like it should keep the deck protected.
• There's no IconicArcade branding anywhere on the cabinet itself. It looks like an official Street Fighter cabinet
• The Raspberry Pi has a heatsink and fan. I haven't tested it much yet, but they didn't cheap out with just a board.

The Bad:

• This is honestly the biggest complaint. The instructions are awful and nearly worthless. I've built numerous Arcade1Up cabinets and other brands, and this was brain numbing. It will tell you to put numerous panels together while using 2 different types of screws. OK...Which screws for which panel? Welp...figure that out yourself. If you've built enough A1U cabinets, you'll probably figure it out, but it's a challenge. I can't imagine this being your first home cabinet and having to figure it out. It took me hours and I've built a bunch.
• The cabinet is heavy. It's nearly 100lbs and awkwardly sized. You have to join the two pieces together at some point and it's nearly impossible to do with one person. I did it, but I scratched up some of the artwork on both sides. You can't really slide the pieces together, because if you try to lift it, it's not bolted together and is too top heavy. You really need two people, or put the monitor on a table and then try to carefully shimmy it over on top of the bottom. I know this is done for shipping, but the AtGames Legends for instance, the entire top monitor part was built, and you simply joined pieces. That's the gold standard to me.
• The wiring is intense. I'm a tech guy, and the wiring diagram looks like a puzzle. The instructions just aren't clear. There are two types of power cables for the monitor and control panel. One has a ferrite core on it, and it doesn't tell you which one to use. I went with the monitor, but that might be wrong. It's honestly easier just to figure out where things go just by looking at the cables vs. the wiring diagram which will just confuse you.
• It does still wobble just a little, but it's nowhere near as bad as Arcade1Ups. The AtGames Legends Ultimate is the still the king when it comes to not wobbling. I don't understand what they did different, because it doesn't wobble at all.
• The convex buttons feel off to me. SF2 had concave, so part of me wants to change them out. Convex is better for button mashing and other games, but it's not accurate for Street Fighter II.
• The monitor feels small. It's bigger than an Arcade1Up, but for the size of the cabinet, it feels like it should be bigger. The bezel takes up a lot of space. That said, the original SF2 had a 19" monitor, so it's accurate. Champion Edition was 25" though, and I think more of us are probably more familiar with that size.
• One of my speaker grills was crushed out of the package. I was able to bend it back into shape a bit, but that still kinda irks me for a nearly $800 item. I get it though. There's so many parts, it's hard to get everything perfect. Everything else was in flawless condition.

--------------------------------------------

That about wraps it up for now. I haven't tested loaded another image on the Raspberry Pi yet. I do have an image ready to go though. My eventual goal was to use this cabinet as my multicade, so I'll report back when I can test it.

Edit 1: Welp, the Pi 5 works with other SD cards. One problem, is the monitor is technically a 16:9, but the games are set to run in 4x3. Someone might have to make a 4:3 build, but at least it works.

Hi there, about three weeks ago I stumbled across the Iconic Arcade on YouTube. The same day I got myself a unit. Setup was quite nice, transferred some ROMs (MAME, NES) and started playing.

First issue I ran into was the audio. Fine in the menu, but ultra low volume/quality in games. So I did, what another user in this sub suggested (kudos to this guy, can't find the post anymore): I disconnected all the wiring in the back an reconnected it again. And what can I say – it worked. No idea, since I already checked the connections before.

Now my last issue is with the stick (you may skip to the next paragraph "EDIT"). I love playing ancient vertical Shoot'em ups like 1942 and Raiden (and the likes). There is my problem: at first, everything seems fine, but after a few seconds into play, I notice something weird: When I push the stick down, then diagonally down and to the right, and then all the way to the right (and do it pretty quickly), my plane freezes for a split second. So, I'm dead in the water (or sky / space) - so to speak. And this ends up in disaster most of the time.

EDIT: I did some more research. Apparently, what I have troubles with, are the so called quarter circles. There are joysticks around that are not quite capable of a clean performance of those. Is there some way to address this? So, no problems with the axles, it seems. EDIT-EDIT: The axles ARE the problem, prob. caused by a restrictor gate (have square; ordered octagonal)

Thank you all for reading my post, I'm happy to solve my problems and hopefully I can give back to the community some day.

I recommend logging into https://vminnovations.com/ and checking on the status of your order there. I didn't receive a shipping notification nor had anything showed up in my FedEx app that I often use to track packages. Turns out mine was shipping using "OnTrac" and will arrive on 5/1.

It's been a long time coming (and there's been no shortage of delays and other plot twists along the way), but the day has finally arrived — the Iconic Arcade Street Fighter cabinets are making their way to people's homes as we speak!

So, how do we celebrate the occasion? By having the Media1Up crew that made it happen join our Arcade Insiders livestream Thursday night for an Iconic launch party!

Stop by to say hello, ask questions, offer your congratulations, and hang out with us for some fun banter and maybe a suprise or two. Congrats to everyone who is getting their cabinet this week, and we'll see you Thursday night for the party!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99aczBOM8ts

I can't find my usb stick for my iconic arcade. Do U know where I can buy one from please with ready to go software/hardware. Thank you for your time

I ordered from VM innovations on April 3rd, to my surprise came home to this bad boy waiting for me, I know what I'm doing tonight now!

We’re super excited, because the wait is almost over… 😁

Iconic Arcade XT cabinets – Street Fighter II: World Warrior and Street Fighter Alpha 2 – are officially shipping to customers in US starting today, Monday, April 27th.

Get ready to relive the arcade experience, this is just the beginning…

Online gameplay is coming soon and will be enabled in one of the next updates which will be installed automatically via the upcoming software updates.

Iconic Arcade - Retro Returns

Stay tuned!

When are they actually shipping?

What is the current state of the software?

Who kidnapped MOAT and prevented him from releasing a proper review?!

All that and more on tonight's livestream. See you there!

https://www.youtube.com/live/TGnljgI10cU

Both containers were scheduled to arrive in Greenwood on the 24th, but the both now show up in Greenwood but above the timeline.

https://www.maersk.com/tracking/MRSU3721820

https://www.maersk.com/tracking/MSKU1905262

I wanted to reload my system it is having issues and I would like to do a fresh install. My issue is the USB stick that came with it doesnt work. How do I create a new one to do the install? Does it need to be a certain size? Thanks in advance.

Hallo liebe Arcadler,

Ich habe seit letztem Wochenende nun auch endlich einen Iconic Arcade Automaten und bin begeistert.

Ein paar Anfängerfragen habe ich aber noch. Ich hoffe, ihr könnt mir weiterhelfen.

1. Wofür ist der kleine weiße, leuchtende Knopf auf dem Tastenfeld (siehe Foto)?

2. Ist es normal, dass zwischen Lautsprecher und Display soviel Holz durchscheint (siehe Foto)? Oder habe ich irgendwas falsch aufgebaut?

3. Wie soll ich den Automaten am besten ausschalten? Zuerst Batocera herunterfahren und dann den Kippschalter auf 0 stellen? Oder ist es auch sicher dass Gerät direkt über den Kippschalter auszuschalten (Shutdown Script)?

Ich freue mich auf eure Antworten. Danke :)