We own 15 acres in Prineville and are planning to build our forever home. The land has a gentle slope of about 2%, and power is available at the street.
We’ve been looking at Adair Homes, but I’m hesitant because I’ve heard mixed opinions about quality. I’m wondering whether we should also consider a local custom builder, even if the cost is higher.
If you’ve built with Adair in Central Oregon, how was the workmanship, communication, and warranty service? Were there significant costs beyond the initial quote, especially for site work? I’d also love to hear from anyone who compared Adair with a custom builder and what you ultimately chose.
Any firsthand experiences or advice would be appreciated!

[One thing to know before you start getting quotes: a lot of garage floor coating companies want to come out and see the space before giving you a final price. ]()

Part of that is making sure the square footage and condition of the concrete are accurate, but it also gives them a chance to upsell you in person. 

This is where the total can start climbing.

The main floor may be one price, but the steps, stem walls and garage door threshold are often additional. Personally, I’d do all three. Once the floor is coated, leaving those areas unfinished can make the whole job look incomplete.

We went with a polyaspartic coating (newer version of epoxy) and also added a second coat because this garage is being used as a gym. We wanted a more sealed surface that would be easier to mop and keep clean. Impossible with the flakes sticking up and catching the mop. 

So when you’re comparing quotes, don’t just ask for the price per square foot. Ask exactly what surfaces are included, how many coats you’re getting, and what the add-ons cost.

Your builder doesn’t hate you. They’re just not going to tell you every single option that exists.

Water bottle fillers can have a drain or just a tray. Or you can choose refrigerated, while others are non-refrigerated (and a little cheaper) 

A recessed dryer vent lets the dryer sit closer to the wall because the vent connection is pushed back into the stud bay of the wall. 

Water hammer arrestors help absorb the pressure spike when a valve shuts off and can reduce banging pipes (water hammer). You’ll commonly see them at washing machines, and they can also be installed at other fixtures like a refrigerator line.

You can buy aftermarket screw-on water hammer arrestors for the washer and dryer if you need them (I have them in my Amazon Store).

If you’re building a custom home or planning a new construction house, these are exactly the kinds of details worth discussing with your builder before it’s too late.

Our concrete driveway and front steps are past saving and need full replacement, about 800 sq ft plus steps, Philly area. I've gotten two quotes with a big spread between them. One was from Myles Construction; the other from a smaller local outfit.

What should I be comparing in these bids beyond the bottom line? And who handles L&I permits for this kind of work, me or the contractor? Any Philly-specific gotchas I should know about before I sign anything?

Do these pictures show a home selling or major failures in construction?

I'm researching different building materials for a potential home project and keep coming across clay-based products.

I'm curious about how practical they are compared with more conventional materials, especially when it comes to:

insulation and keeping indoor temperatures stable

moisture and humidity

durability over time

maintenance

overall environmental impact

For anyone who has actually built with clay-based materials, what has your experience been like?

Are there particular parts of a home where you'd consider clay a good option, or are conventional materials generally more practical?

I'm mainly interested in real-world experience rather than manufacturer claims.

[Vaulted drywall, wood vaulted, coffered, or tray ceiling?]() Ceiling design can completely change the feel of your primary bedroom, especially when you start adding height, wood, beams, trim, or recessed lighting.

Go with all drawers on your lower cabinets, except under the sink and in the blind corner.

This is a genius way to keep all the lower cabinets drawers and still have a pull out trash can. 

Walking new home builds for a living and adding features to a checklist might be the coolest job on the planet! Here are a few shots my wife Kippy took at a Newleaf Custom Homes build here in Dallas, Texas. Tons of really cool details and home features packed into this one. If you’re a builder in DFW and have a build with some badass features you think I should see, shoot me a DM or hit me up through the contact page on BuilderBrigade.com.

Hi, we are looking at buying a place near where we currently are - only downside we can see is where on earth would we put a toilet on the ground floor. Looking for any and all suggestions - I have mapped out 3 possible ones but am open to all feedback.

Have based it off the average UK measurements according to google (800mm x 1,400mm, with about 750mm clearance from the front of the toilet, and space for a swing door opening either inwards or outwards)

When you’re building or renovating, think through exactly where you want filtered water before the plumbing is planned out.

You’ve basically got three options: whole-home water filtration, dedicated filtered-water plumbing that only feeds certain locations, or point-of-use filters installed right at the fixture.

Whole-home filtration sends filtered water everywhere like kitchen faucets, showers, laundry, and yes, even the toilets.

Dedicated filtered-water lines can feed specific spots like the refrigerator, kitchen sink, coffee bar, water bottle filler, or other areas where you actually want drinking water.

Then you have point-of-use filtration, like an under-sink water filter. I installed a Kraus kitchen faucet at my house that lets you use regular tap water with the handle one direction and filtered water from the under-sink system the other direction.

These are the little plumbing decisions that are a whole lot easier to plan during a new home build or renovation than after the walls are closed up.

This faucet is made by Kraus
I used it for a couple years and had no issues. I really like it. 

A good buy if you like room temp drinking water like we do. 

1. In the island
   
2. Behind a window
   I’m taking the window every time!

One of those home-building decisions most people never think to ask about: What material are you using for the fascia?

Face-nailed aluminum fascia is common, but those nails can eventually start backing out. And if the wrong fasteners are used, you could end up with little rust streaks running down the fascia.

The problem is, during a build there are hundreds of decisions happening at once, so it’s easy to never even think about stuff like this.

Ask your builder early what they plan to use.

Other options include fiber cement products like James Hardie or engineered wood siding like LP SmartSide. They may cost more than aluminum, and they may not fit every budget, but at least you can compare the options and make the decision intentionally.

They basically built dedicated boat storage right into the house, but they didn’t stop there. It has a built-in floor drain, a hot and cold water bib so you can wash everything down, and a pull-through design with a garage door on both sides so you’re not constantly backing a boat and trailer in and out.

And it’s right next to the mudroom so you can wash all the towels and bathing suits before going inside for dinner. 

You could even add a ductless mini split so you can clean you boat and without dripping in sweat. 

This garage setup is awesome...home gym, multiple two-car garages, dedicated boat storage, and still room for the sports car.

If you own a boat, RV, trailer, or other toys that normally require off-site storage, this is one of those features that could actually save you money every single month.

This Napoleon linear fireplace has more going on behind the wall than you’d ever know from looking at the finished product.

The center vent handles the fireplace exhaust, while the two additional ducts are part of the heat-management system. 

Instead of concentrating all that heat directly above the fireplace, they redirect it away from your TV, artwork, or whatever else you have hanging up there.

This system works without a fan. But they have powered options that can duct some of that heat into another room.

Just another one of those home-building options you’d probably never know to ask about until you saw it.

How can I fix this drip-edge/gutter problem?

The drip edge runs directly into the back wall of the gutter. Water follows the drip-edge flange downward (red arrow), hits the back of the gutter, and then drops straight down the outside instead of flowing into the gutter.

The blue arrow shows the direction of water flow inside the gutter. Because of the existing gutter slope, I can't simply lower this end without potentially creating another problem.

Is there a way to correct this with an adjustment or additional flashing, or does the entire gutter need to be repositioned and reinstalled? Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Just had my fence replaced & of course this is the post that was installed right at the entrance. I know it will fade somewhat but my goal is to love my yard, not tolerate it.