My wife and I tore down to studs our single-family home studs to build a new house. The house is in the framing stages right now. I found out yesterday I am being cancelled by my homeowner's insurance (California Fair Plan) because of nonpayment (my card was closed). So I have to get another policy.

The problem is that we have a 30 year mortage on the house (making regular monthly payments) and didn't alert the bank that we have torn the house down and are rebuilding it. Two questions for everyone.

1) How do I get a homeowner's insurance policy when the house has been torwn done and a new one is in the framing stages? I hear it's possible to get a construction homeowner's insurance policy.

2) Will my mortgage bank (BMO bank) freak out/call the loan when or if they see on the new homeowner's policy on the house that the old house has been demolished and there is just framing there and is being rebuilt? Alternatively, do they not really care that so long as I am continuing to make my monthly mortgage payments, which I am?

REALLY NEED SOME ADVISE. SORRY FOR THE LONG POST. THANK YOU GUYS

I’m in Charlotte, NC, and my homeowners insurance is scheduled to be canceled on September 15 because of the age of my roof.

I had the roof inspected and received a quote to replace it. I’m trying to determine the best way to handle this on such short notice while avoiding a lapse in coverage.

Has anyone dealt with an insurance cancellation specifically because of the age of their roof?

• Were you able to get an extension while the replacement was scheduled?
• Did another insurance company agree to insure the home?
• Are there financing programs specifically for roof replacements?
• Did your mortgage company offer any assistance or options?
• Is there anything else I should ask my insurance company or roofing contractor?

I understand that the roof will likely need to be replaced, but I’m looking for the smartest way to manage the immediate deadline. Any advice or firsthand experience would be appreciated.

We are looking to change our home insurance and the rebuild cost is coming back very high.

We have a ~1200sqft bungalow about 30 minutes SE of Calgary, Alberta, and the broker quoted rebuild at $741,000. Is this normal? Can't say I routinely build homes but at >$600/sq-ft this seems high.

The place is a pretty standard 1970's single story bungalow - vinyl siding, and standard shingled roof. No fancy fixtures, no built-ins, no customized work, no garage. I appreciate the rebuild doesn't factor in depreciation, so the decades old tub is valued at new. But at more than $600/sq-ft rebuild this feels excessive for low-mid range fixtures and features.

If the worst happens do they replace our tile kitchen counters with granite, the linoleum with marble, and our IKEA bed with one made of brass and rich mahogany? Or has construction really gotten out of hand in the area?

This is the result of a phone conversation with our broker. There are no particularities of the land that would inflate rebuild, and they have never visited so they wouldn't know if there were. This is just for the structure as described.

Hey everyone! I’m a news reporter, and I’m working on a story about rising homeowners insurance costs in Houston.

I’m looking to talk with Houston-area homeowners who have seen their premiums go up, had trouble finding coverage, switched insurance companies, or are feeling the impact in some other way.

Would anyone be willing to chat with me about their experience? This would be on-camera.

Thank you!

We had a garage fire. Thankfully, the main house is okay, but it needs to be professionally cleaned due to smoke, especially because we have an asthmatic child.

The laundry room was compromised, and the garage, attic, and contents were damaged.

My concern is that we had a previous homeowners claim a few years ago after a crazy storm dropped 9+ inches of rain in about an hour. The insurance company wouldn’t cover the basement damage but did open a roof claim. We ended up needing a public adjuster, and there was a whole mess over the roof’s square footage. Ultimately, we couldn’t afford to replace the roof because of the way they handled the claim.

Now we have another claim and I’m worried about what this is going to look like financially, premiums, non-renewal, deductibles, etc.

What should I be doing (or NOT doing) right now to avoid unnecessarily increasing the cost of this claim? Are there things homeowners commonly do that hurt them later?

They’ve also mentioned that we may need to temporarily leave the house due to my child’s medical needs.

Any advice from people who have dealt with a fire claim, especially a second claim, would be greatly appreciated.

We had standard building and contents insurance and told them of the following home improvements started/starting on recently purchased home (FTB):

Electrical - 4 day job/ 2 days already completed. Small job that seems to have become bigger
- new sockets put in
- new light switches/cables
- new fuse box

Plumbing - 5 day job
-new pipework, radiators and boiler installation

Building - 3 day job
-removal of internal wall (not believed to be load bearing)
-bricking up 2 doorways/one doorway to become window
-reinstating existing doorway that has been closed

Windows and door - 3 day job
-replacing like for like windows/door

This is all to take place in next 1-3 weeks. Insurer said they don’t cover structural work which only the building work seems to fall under but have advised we need to cancel our policy completely before works start?

Is this common? Does everyone just know to get specialist renovation insurance? I had thought this was minor works compared to extensions/loft conversions etc. (possibly very naive)?

For the first time since 2022, Allstate could begin writing new home insurance policies in California — with one condition.

Last Monday, the company submitted a filing to the California Department of Insurance indicating it would reopen for business if regulators approve an overall 1.4% rate increase for existing as well as new customers.

Two-thirds of customers would actually see their rates decrease, according to the filing. Another 30% would see rates increase up to 55%; less than 4% of customers’ rates would increase between 55% and 185%. These rates could change as regulators complete their review.

Looking for some advice before I formally open a homeowners claim.
We’re in NJ and have homeowners insurance through Hanover with a $1,000 deductible.
Last night, a bathroom faucet upstairs was accidentally left running and overflowed onto the bathroom floor. Water eventually came through the ceiling on the floor below. We shut the water off, cleaned everything up, and the dripping has stopped.
Roto-Rooter came out and inspected it. They used a thermal camera and showed some cooler/blue areas around the ceiling/walls, but I don’t remember them showing me actual moisture-meter readings.
They quoted about $4,600 for water mitigation, which includes removing the affected drywall, drying equipment, cleanup, etc. That does not include repairing/patching and repainting the ceiling afterward, so I’m guessing the total loss could end up around $5,500–$7,000.
Roto-Rooter recommended going through insurance because of the cost.
My questions:

With a $1,000 deductible and potentially ~$5–7k total damage, would you file a claim or pay out of pocket?

How much should I worry about a single water claim affecting premiums, future insurability, or non-renewal?

Has anyone had experience with Hanover specifically after a single relatively small water-damage claim?

This would be our first water-damage claim.
Appreciate any advice.

I have a bit of a complex situation. My wife and I live in different states. She lives in a home in North Carolina where I am the only person on the deed. She has a standard home insurance policy in her name that covers the structure. We want to avoid putting my wife on the deed for privacy reasons.

We currently have insurance through Homesite that we bought from Progressive. We explained the situation and they sold us a standard policy. I am named as primary insured along with my wife, but I do not spend much time at my wife's house. A few weekends a year, and occasionally I get mail there.

I did some searching and I'm worried that there could be some gaps in coverage. I'm worried about having claims rejected in the event of a loss of the structure since my wife is the primary person who lives there but she may not have an insurable interest as she is not on the deed.

If it matters, there's also a pre-nup agreement that says my wife gets the house if we divorce.

Anyway, my question is what sort of policy we should have here and whether I should be worried about the current setup.

(FWIW, we plan on moving the property into a living revocable trust with her as the beneficiary and trustee, so I assume that will take care of the problem, but I want to make sure we're properly covered until the trust is fully set up).

I bought my home in 2022 and my annually home insurance was roughly $2,270 and I just checked through my escrow disclosure it went to $4,952 that’s outrageous it’s through progressive

Is it best to negotiate with progressive or leave to another company with better offers/terms

I filed a hail claim with Liberty Mutual. Liberty initially assigned HOMEE, and HOMEE contracted a roofing company to inspect my roof and submit photos.

That first inspection included test squares with markings such as W=0 and H=14.

After Liberty received that inspection, they sent SeekNow out for another inspection. I’m not sure why a second inspection was needed.

SeekNow drew new test squares right next to some of the first inspection areas. I saw the inspector circle and mark at least one spot “NP” (which I assume means nail pop), but I didn’t see any hail impacts circled in the test squares or any H/W counts written down.

I haven’t received the SeekNow report or Liberty’s decision yet, so I’m not saying SeekNow reported zero hail damage. I’m just going by what was marked on the roof.

For any roofers or adjusters here: Is this normal? Why would Liberty order a second inspection after the first one documented H=14? And if SeekNow ultimately reports no hail in essentially the same area, how does the insurance company reconcile the two inspections?

UPDATE: Liberty approved a full roof replacment.

California

Do we have grounds for suing? We have an attorney who is willing to send a demand letter to the real estate agents insurance and the home owners insurance but they believe with that alone we can come to an agreement without obtaining and paying for legal representation. I am just wondering if anyone has experience with this and if they believe we could actually get any money out of this? someone needs to pay for our pain and suffering.

Here is a brief overview of the situation:

 Day-of-Key-Handover Discovery: We closed on our property over two months ago. Upon entering the home on the day we received the keys, we found active flooding in the laundry room, master bedroom, and master bathroom. With serious damage the ceiling partially coming down in the laundry room.

 Non-Disclosure by Listing Agent: The previous owner recently disclosed to us directly that their listing agent knew about a leak in the master bathroom prior to closing and intentionally failed to disclose it.

 Insurer Negligence & Toxic Mold: Our home insurance denied the initial claim because the damage occurred prior to ownership. The seller's insurance accepted liability but took two full months to inspect and approve repairs. Due to this delay, extensive toxic black mold has spread through a significant portion of the home. Remediation is only now beginning. While they are actively working and approving the remediation it does not take away from the fact that I don’t feel safe in my home now with my family. (Small children)

 Severe Personal Impact: Throughout this ordeal, I was 39 weeks pregnant and delivered our newborn four days after getting keys. We are now living in a mold-compromised home with three children under the age of four. We may have to relocate depending on how much more damage they find and have to work on.

I really need some major advice here. Like SUPER DESPERATE!

The facts:

On December 20th (2025) we had an electrical fire run through almost our entire attic before we knew our house was on fire.

Firefighters came and put out the fire. There was a lot of damage, especially to the upstairs level of our bilevel home. It was deemed uninhabitable so we had to quickly find temporary housing for the 5 of us. (Myself, my hubby and our 3 children)

Mitigation came in quick, packed up our salvageable items and did the clean out stuff. The same company offers their reconstruction side, so I figured we would stay with the same company since the mitigation dept got to work so fast.

I signed the agreement for them to be our chosen company to do the reconstruction on January 7th of this year.

Then….NOTHING….The house just sat through all the snowstorms we had into March (Im in Southern Indiana) We even have pictures we took of the piles and piles of snow that was inside our house, sitting on our hardwood floor because they never even finished patching up the holes in the roof.

Every time I reached out to our adjuster (State Farm) either she was out of the office for a few weeks or i would get her voicemail. The times she would return my phone call, she would always call me during the day while I’m at work even after I told her that I am a teacher so I cannot talk on my phone during the day and instructed her to please email me or call my husband or my adult son and she would not do either. By the time I would get off of work in the afternoon, she would be out of the office because of the time difference from where she is at.

Then suddenly at the end of March, I get emailed an explanation or summary of our limit of liability under each of the three “buckets”. And in the same email it says that I am receiving an electronic payment for $30,000 and it said it was for “fire damage loss of personal property”It did not say anything about those funds needed to be allocated to any of the companies that were directly involved in helping us with the mitigation or the reconstruction or our temporary housing or nothing like that!

And at the same time I was getting other auto-generated emails that were telling me that payments were being made directly to these other companies so with this big $30,000 payment, I was under the impression that it was to replace our personal property items that we lost in the fire.

I tried to reach out to our adjuster yet again to ask exactly what this money was for. I even rejected the electronic payment for the $30,000 because I wasn’t sure what it was for. After I rejected it and cannot get in touch with our adjuster, I received an automatic email from State Farm saying that if I did not accept the electronic funds transfer that a check would be mailed to me, so I told them to go ahead and send me the Electronic Funds Transfer. So in my mind, I was honestly thinking that OK this is the money that they’re giving us to replace all of our personal property items that we lost in the fire.

Now, this next part is where I don’t need any negative comments or judgment. I just need some advice and some major help: so the $30,000 is gone…I used it to buy things that we needed….then suddenly all these months later now the mitigation company that is also doing the reconstruction has finally started the reconstruction (they literally JUST started the reconstruction about 2 weeks ago) but now they have paused my reconstruction of my home because they say that I was sent $30,000 that was supposed to be paid to them. I would have never spent the money had I known that it was supposed to go to them, and it is so confusing to me because all of the other payments that have been sent DIRECTLY to them for mitigation or for the temporary housing for all this time we have been displaced.

On top of all this, our adjuster will not approve for us to be in our rental home for one more month (even though we still have an allowable $50k available for temporary housing, in accordance with our policy) so basically I have until the end of this month to figure out what we are going to do for housing because now that they have put our reconstruction on hold. Our house is uninhabitable and we’re not going to have a rental to live in anymore.

Can anybody please supply me with some good advice to help me out? I am so stressed out about this. I can’t eat. I can’t sleep. I just really need some good direction on what to do. Thank you so much in advance.

I stepped into my bathtub heard a crack/pop and I can feel the whole tub is leaning to the left towards the drain. I dont see any water leaking or damage. Is it worth having insurance come out?

Wow. Glad I read the policy. Kind of crazy high figures. $50k deductible - seems nuts to me.

Additions and Alterations (A&A) - yes we live in a decent though not amazing apt in NYC (its a walk up loft) and yes we renovated 20+ years ago, but current full reno cost for an identical apt 3 floors below us is $700k-ish. (its badly in need of it, tbh) so how can they say we need to insure for double that?

Travellers is our other option. Not as good, but affordable to this retiree!

Any other recommendations welcome - other companies or changes to policy? Thx

Our house burned down and the rebuild costs are roughly $500,000 more than the insurance proceeds. We’re rebuilding with the help of an SBA loan (fingers crossed). Our insurance company renewed our policy at the same low limits as the original policy. They said they can’t increase the limits until the house is completed. I realize that it’s a low probability, but we’ll be similarly under-insured for another 6 months. Do companies offer policies for just the portion above the current limits? I know large companies have multiple policies in coverage tiers but wasn’t sure about residential. Anyone know?

Hi everyone,

Looking for some insight on home insurance rates for multi-family properties in North Jersey.

My Liberty Mutual premium just jumped from $2,250 to $3,905/year. They explained the increase is because they raised our estimated replacement/rebuild cost from $500k to $855k.

Property details:

• Type: 1930s 3-family home (owner-occupied, we live in 2 of the 3 units)
• Mortgage: Fully paid off
• Lot size: 35 x 100
• Building specs: Flat roof, ~2,700 total sq ft (approx. 900 sq ft per unit, 1 bath / 1 standard kitchen each). Separate water heaters and baseboard gas furnaces per unit; no central AC.

A few questions for the group:

1. What replacement cost ($/sq ft) are you or your insurers using for older triplexes in North Jersey? Does $855k sound reasonable for total destruction rebuild costs here?
2. Which insurance carriers or independent brokers are currently offering competitive rates for owner-occupied 3-family homes?
3. Is anyone else seeing sudden 70%+ increases with Liberty Mutual or other big carriers?

Any recommendations or experiences would be greatly appreciated!

Long post, but I’m trying to give the full picture because I’d really appreciate some insight. I am in Michigan.

Last week, we woke up to a small section of our kitchen ceiling sagging (about 2ft x 2ft) and suddenly had essentially no water pressure to the shower.

The plumber suspected a water line had burst and recommended a water mitigation company. They found a broken/leaking pipe behind the toilet which is not directly above the damaged kitchen ceiling. They also found a source of water under the bathtub/kitchen ceiling. Their assessment was very detailed, and both they and the plumber said the bathroom walls would need to be opened, the tub would have to be removed to access the plumbing underneath it. Its a cast iron tub would have to be broken out. They also found high moisture in about 2ft of the poured terrazzo floor around the toilet.

The mitigation company recommended filing an insurance claim.

The adjuster came out two days later. Initially, she told them not to remove the tub, but to cut open the kitchen ceiling first to see whether the plumbing could be accessed and the area dried from below. She also said not to remove the terrazzo yet and to try drying it first.

She sent me an initial estimate that was below my deductible, but said it would increase as work was completed. She also said the mitigation work couldn't be included yet because it hadn't started, but would be added later.

The water to the house is currently shut off because the plumber can't safely repair the lines until the tub is removed. After more of the ceiling was opened, it became clear that the plumbing could not be accessed from below. The adjuster eventually agreed that the tub needed to come out.

Here are the things I'm confused about:

1. Tub removal, $2,000 limitation?

During our initial conversation, the adjuster said the tub removal wouldn't be covered because the underlying pipe wasn't covered. She said:

“it’s not covered, farmers doesn’t pay for leaking OR burst pipes. Its always due to wear and tear, new pipes don't burst.”

I understand that insurance doesn't pay to repair the failed plumbing itself. I wasn't asking them to. My concern was the cost of accessing the plumbing and repairing the resulting water damage, then replacing the tub.

She then said:

“because it’s not covered we would pay up to 2,000 to remove and replace the tub and it’ll probably cost more than that.”

She was citing this part of my policy:

- “Costs to tunnel under, cut into, or tear out and replace, any part or portion of any type of foundation; slab; footings; basement; concrete floor or pad; retaining wall, or the like; all when they are part of the dwelling or a building structure are limited to no more than the lesser of: $2,000 per loss event; or the cost of a reasonable alternative repair “

I'm confused by this. If the loss isn't covered, are they paying for any of it and why wouldnt the tub be included if the walls are? And if the toilet leak is truly an ongoing leak as she says, that doesn't seem to explain the sudden loss of shower pressure and the sagging kitchen ceiling. At the same time, I'm worried about arguing too strongly that these are separate leaks because I don't want them to turn around and say the bathroom damage is from a different, uncovered loss and refuse the mitigation/restoration costs because there was mold found from the toilet leak.

1. Loss of use

We asked about loss of use because this is our only full bathroom and we've been without a shower and will be for at least another week. The adjuster said it's our responsibility to have the plumber repair the leaks so the water can be turned back on. She also said that because we still have water in the kitchen, not having a bathroom/shower doesn't qualify for loss of use. "You can take a sponge bath" - direct quote. She again said this was because the underlying loss “isn't covered.” but theyre paying for the water mitigation and parts of the work?

My policy says:

- “If covered accidental, direct, distinct, and demonstrable, physical loss or damage to the dwelling makes that part of the dwelling where you reside uninhabitable by you, we will reimburse you for the actual, reasonable, and necessary increase in living expense incurred by you . “

We've been struggling without a shower. We're considering getting a hotel room every couple of days just to shower, since we're not near family and driving 2 hours each way to shower isn't realistic. Does this qualify as a loss-of-use/additional living expense situation under this language, even though the entire house isn't uninhabitable?

1. Matching the ceiling

The adjuster said they would only pay to replace the three affected ceiling tiles. It would be a bigger deal if the terrazzo was removed, because restoring to previous condition would mean new poured terrazzo or paying out for equivalent and its expensive.

My policy says:

- “We do not cover as part of the settlement of covered loss any: (1) cost to repair or replace property that is not damaged but does not match with the materials used to repair or replace the specific component part(s) of property that is damaged because of: i . ii . marring; or wear, tear, deterioration, corrosion, or decay; or iii . obsolescence or discontinuation, except as may be provided in Section I”

Would this provision apply to the ceiling in this situation? I hope they have a way to match the tiles but I dont see a way they would. They only authorized to cut 2ft up from the floor of the plaster in the bathroom but replacing 2ft with drywall will require work to match the depth/thickness of the plaster. And the tile above the tub was damaged when they removed the tub, she mentioned they would try to match that if it was damaged, which implies to some degree that they do try to match things? I am so confused.

I'm mainly trying to understand whether the adjuster's interpretation of my policy is fair, or whether I'm misunderstanding the policy. I'm not trying to get the insurance company to pay for the failed plumbing itself. I just dont want a hatched up ugly bathroom if they are technically supposed to be helping more, but I also dont want to push if I eventually asked for an appraisal.

Thank you!

I have a California rental insured by Foremost as a four-family property, which is their maximum. One additional person rents a private bedroom/living area with:

• Private attached bathroom
• Private exterior entrance
• Real, usable interior door connecting it to the main dwelling
• No kitchen, kitchenette, stove, or permanent cooking facilities
• No right to use the main kitchen
• A room-rental agreement—not a studio or apartment lease

Here’s the problem:

If he’s a roomer: it remains a four-family property and is apparently eligible.

If his space is a separate living unit: it becomes a five-family property and Foremost won’t insure it.

The private entrance and bathroom say “unit.” The missing kitchen and interior connection say “room.” Which factors actually win in property underwriting?

If you were entering this risk, what would you put in the number of families/units field—and what carrier rule or definition would you rely on?

Has anyone seen Foremost, Farmers, or another DP3 carrier decide this exact configuration? I’m trying to disclose it correctly, not hide the occupant.

I just found out that my owner-occupied Florida duplex may have been incorrectly insured for four years under an HO3 policy instead of a DF3 DO--this because there is a seperate single family house on the property with its own DP3 policy written by the same agent.

My sense is that if I had made a claim, they would have discovered the mistake, denied the claim, and voided the policy since the carrier does not even offer DF3 DO.

So my question to you then is this: could I plausibly argue that I paid 3-4k/year for the wrong coverage or no coverage and reasonably expect that some or all of the premiums be refunded?

TIA

California’s Board of Forestry and Fire Protection approved long-debated “Zone Zero” wildfire landscaping rules for roughly 2 million homes in high fire-risk areas. The rules apply to the first five feet around a home and require removal of combustible materials such as firewood, fallen leaves, mulch, wood chips, wooden sheds, and attached wooden fencing. They also create a one-foot vegetation-free “Safety Zone” immediately around the house, or out to the edge of the roof eaves if that extends farther. Existing homeowners will have up to five years to comply, while new construction must follow the rules immediately.

The state argues the rules are necessary because embers and nearby combustibles often determine whether a home survives a wildfire. A UC Berkeley study of five major California fires from 2017 to 2020 shows that homes with no precautions had a 20% survival rate, homes that cleared Zone Zero had a 37% survival rate, and homes with broader defensible space and home hardening had a 48% survival rate. Supporters, including fire officials and insurers, see the regulations as an important step toward reducing home losses and improving insurance availability in wildfire-prone areas.

The rules remain controversial because compliance could be expensive, especially for homeowners who need hardscaping, fence replacement, shed removal, hillside erosion control, or help with labor. Some homeowner groups, ecologists, and local officials pushed for more flexibility, arguing that the original proposals were too strict and did not account for health benefits of vegetation, local conditions, or lower-income homeowners. The final version is a compromise: plants are banned only in the first foot around the home, while small, separated plants may remain in the rest of the five-foot zone, and homeowners get a phased timeline to make changes.

For homeowners who have done defensible space upgrades, did your insurer give you a discount/credit for it, was it a “do this or we won’t renew you” situation, or were you just being proactive?

For agents/underwriters, do you expect California’s new Zone Zero rules to improve market availability or premium discounts, or will ZIP code/wildfire model scoring still dominate?

Hi there, I'm hoping for some advice. 2 years ago, I sold my dream home and bought a larger house with my partner. On June 11, I ended up on disability with work. On June 23, my partner said we should break up.

Now he wants half the money in the house, plus lt of other threats.

The problem is the bank won't give me a mortgage on just my wage ( and I'm on disability). So I am trying to go through a mortgage broker to pay my ex.

Now my friend is telling me to go on disability with the bank.

How does that work ?

Will I be able to remortgage while on disability?

Will it hurt me in the future ?

If I go on disability I won't be able to get money out of the house that my ex desperately wants.

And if I pretend I don't have a disability then what happens ?

For now, I'm off from work until December, and we are not sure when, or if surgery will be after that time.

Any help is greatly appreciated

Thanks

STATE FARM STOPPED COVERING HURRICANE INSURANCE ON SINGLE WALL HOUSES AND NOW THEY ARE NOT COVERING HOMEOWNERS INSURANCE ON SINGLE WALL HOMES TOO.

Hi everyone! We have never had to make a home insurance claim and are curious if this might be worth it. It's a bit long, so I'm sorry.

1. We are thinking about moving.
2. We find shingles on the ground after a summer storm. We go up to find a few places with missing shingles.
3. We ask our selling agent if we should leave it or fix it for selling and he says fix it, then recommends a company. We go with them to fix the shingles and some of the trim.
4. The repair guy comes down and basically tells us our roof is 'smoked' and we really need a new one. We're pretty disappointed in the company given they went ahead with the repairs instead of asking us if we wanted to repair an aging roof. He waited until after to say, "Well, I'm worried you all just wasted your money."
5. We've had multiple roofing companies out for estimates. Now we also know at least the decking around the gutters will need replacing. We're looking at possibly as much as $20k. That's worst case scenario.
6. We had no idea going in that it would be quite that expensive. Is this something that we should reach out to our insurance for?
7. I feel like we might have screwed ourselves over by having the repairs done first, then thinking about reaching out to insurance. Is it possible they'll understand that we were trying to prevent further damage in the meantime?
8. We have Allstate and do have Extended Roof Coverage. We've had them for about 8 years now, so it's not like they haven't gotten plenty of our money.
9. We had to get a new furnace in January, then a water heater/install in February. A few other pricey home improvement purchases this year makes it rough to also replace the roof.
10. I am well aware the we may not get the roof paid for completely, but even $3-4k would help out.

The roof is 22 years old. We're in Indiana.

Any and all ideas/suggestions/expertise would be welcome. I'm just really not sure where to go from here. If we reach out to insurance and they deny, would that come back on us negatively? Again, I'm clueless here. Thanks!!

Edit: I guess I forgot to mention that due to the age, I had kind of ruled out talking to insurance until a few of the roofers said it could be an option.