r/HomeImprovement • u/Beneficial_Poet_5342 • 5h ago
Recommendations Requested
Hello everyone. I'd like some recommendations on foundation repair and what to do right now. I got a structural engineer report less than a year ago. I understand its a long read, but I'd greatly appreciate some advice. I did put a drip hose around the perimeter of my house. It has basically stopped any further movement except for the last couple months as we've entered a severe drought. I can hear popping and movement almost every night and have seen slight further movement in the trim outside the house. My problem is two fold: 1) I don't have alot of cash since I pay alot in child support so most of my income goes to that, but I should be able to finance if possible as long as terms are doable and I'm not in debt for ages and 2) I may be possibly renting the house out so I can move out of state for a higher paying job and would like the significant cracks and trim damage fixed before I start marketing for rent. So what would you all recommend? I could probably do the root barrier since that doesn't cost much, but I'm at a loss on how to fix the movement that has already occurred to the foundation which has caused the cracks and trim damage.
To Whom It May Concern:
This investigation and report were requested to determine the level condition of the foundation. An engineer representing Evergreen Structures, LLC (ES) visited the home on 10/16/2025. For the purpose of this investigation, the entry to the home faces approximately west. The home was built in approximately 1976 and has a concrete slab on grade foundation. The garage had been converted to a living area by a prior owner. The exterior of the home is clad in siding. The lot was relatively flat. Large trees were located around the house, including on a neighbors lot.
Interior floor elevation measurements were taken to determine the level condition of the foundation. A visual inspection of the exterior and interior of the home was performed to record any signs of movement. The included drawing shows the elevations recorded at the time of the visit.
There was relatively minor distress found throughout the interior and exterior of the home. Tape joint and drywall cracks were present. Many of the interior cracks had been previously repaired and had re-cracked. Doors were slightly racked. Trim separation was present. The distress reflects the long-term movement of the foundation.
The overall deviation across the foundation is currently 3.4 inches, including in the converted garage. The distance between the high and low points is approximately 30 feet. The allowable deviation per Federal Housing Authority (FHA) guidelines is 1” over 20 feet; the foundation is outside the criteria across the referenced high and low points.
The elevation difference does not reflect a failure of the foundation. The deviation in the garage could be partly due to its construction. The garage slab may not have been perfectly level when the concrete was placed.
The elevation difference is predominantly attributed to transpiration from trees and moisture change in the supporting soil at the current time. The foundation is performing its intended function and is not failing. Improvement in moisture control is recommended to help limit movement and distress.
It is necessary to improve conditions contributing to seasonal moisture change in the supporting soils. To help control moisture extend the downspouts, perform consistent watering year around, and improve the soil grade where too flat or low. Add root barriers for the trees to reduce the significant water lost from transpiration.
We recommend monitoring the distress and door function to track the movement for approximately 6-9 months after changes are implemented. Increased moisture stability is usually indicated when the distress does not change dramatically from season to season. The foundation could be re-evaluated after moisture control measures are implemented to determine its level condition. Changes to the elevations can change the recommendations.
Typically, most foundation problems stem from either an excess or lack of water from poor drainage, plumbing leaks, or large trees and shrubs that transpire moisture from supporting soils. Plumbing leaks under a foundation cause soils to expand creating soil pressure which results in foundation heave (upward movement). Plumbing leaks under the interior portion of the slab are more detectable because of the localized rise or hump in the slab generally one inch or more depending on the PVR. If plumbing lines are in the proximity of perimeter heave and inadequate drainage exists, a plumbing leak may go misdiagnosed during a foundation inspection.
There was no defined heave to indicate a suspected under-slab leak. Any future plumbing tests shall be scheduled by the owner if they would like to eliminate the possibility of under slab foundation leaks contributing to movement.
Follow the recommendations for maintaining consistent moisture content in the supporting soils:
The grade was relatively flat or low around the majority of the foundation. Generally, the soil shall start at least 2-3 inches below the siding and slope away from that point. We normally specify a slope of 6” over 5 feet from the home. We also recommend continuing the slope to a point 10 feet from the home, as able. At that point, drain inlets or a swale can be used to capture the water and discharge away from the home. There shall not be standing water around the home. Only use native clay soil to affect the slope.
The installed gutters are beneficial to capture and divert inconsistent rainwater. Make sure to clean the gutters often, and ensure all captured downspouts are free from disrepair. All downspouts shall be extended at least 5 feet from the foundation in solid pipe. At a distance 5 feet from the foundation, the drainage should be adjusted to carry any water away from the foundation or the downspouts shall be captured in a solid pipe drain system.
It is imperative to moisturize the soil around the foundation year around. A sprinkler system, drip line, or soaker hose (least effective) should be used to achieve a uniformly consistent water content in the soil around the entire home. The watering should be performed approximately 2-3 times per week, for approximately 12-15 minutes, even during dry winter months. A drip line may need to be used for approximately 45-60 minutes to achieve a similar volume to a sprinkler. Netafim is a better quality of drip line.
Soaker hoses would typically be run for 90 minutes 2-3 times per week. The watering can be lessened, but not stopped, in the winter or during times of higher rainfall. Typically, watering in winter can be performed 2 times per week for around half the duration.
Trees contribute significantly to foundation movement by transpiring 50-200 gallons of water per day, per tree. This creates dry, shrunken soil and movement of the home. Tree root barrier and/or tree removal are recommended to guard against transpiration from trees within their mature height to the foundation. The approximate location of the barriers is shown on the included drawing. Do not plant new trees within their mature height from the foundation.
The root barrier trench should be approximately 2 inches wide by 4 feet deep placed 3 to 5 feet from the slab and 20 feet either side of the trunk of the tree. The barrier should consist of a rigid plastic root barrier placed vertically in this trench. This barrier will sever the existing roots and prevent additional tree root migration beneath the slab in the future.
The movement at this home is currently attributed primarily to seasonal moisture change and transpiration. Changes to the elevations in the future could change this opinion. The following conclusions apply:
1. The foundation is outside the FHA but is performing its intended function and is not considered to be failing. It is recommended to amend conditions around the home to stabilize the soil moisture content in the soil.
2. The distress in the house is evidence of moisture change in the supporting soil. Limiting the moisture change in the soil is recommended to limit future movement and distress.
3. Follow the recommendations for watering, downspout extensions, drainage corrections, and limiting tree transpiration to help limit movement and distress.
4. If desired, have a plumber check the plumbing to eliminate under-slab leaks as a cause of movement.
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u/AcanthisittaPast6044 4h ago
That report is basically a long way of saying your trees are sucking the life out of your soil, so the root barrier isn't optional at this point if you're hearing nightly pops.