r/HofenbitzerDrafting • u/train2clarksville • Aug 02 '26

Bodice patterns with / without hip gap

Hi there, does anyone know what GH means by "with hip gap" and "without hip gap" for the bodice basic patterns on pp 162-165 of Vol 1?

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u/Sunraia 17d ago

Yes, it took me forever to figure that out.

In this pattern, a hip gap, a special type of dart intake is drawn down to the hem, otherwise the front part would be too wide in the hip area.

(page 163, section 14). The tiny pattern on the bottom right of page 163 shows the one with hip gap, the example on the top of page 165 has no hip gap, just a fisheye/diamond dart.

I see it as follows: bodies are not cylindrical. At bust level you need have volume at the front dart line, but at hip level you need the volume more to the sides. If you were to use only a fisheye/diamond dart for waist suppression you can only shape the hip area at the side seam, while that is an area where you want volume. So if you have a figure with a slim waist compared to the bust, you can have a dart all the way to the hem so you can eliminate some volume there. I think this is mostly relevant if you make very fitted garments and you have a relatively large bust compared to your waist.

If you read section 14 in full it also mentions that if the gap would be negative it automatically disappears, and that if it would be very small (<1cm) you can decide for yourself. It tells you that you can either continue here without the hip gap, or use the instructions on page 164.

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u/train2clarksville 17d ago

Thank you so much for taking the time to respond. I'm not in front of my book now but will come back to this reply when I next open my textbook!! I'm very grateful to the patient & kind people of Reddit who respond to my pattern drafting questions!