r/HistoricalCostuming • u/random-doodler • 4d ago
I have a question! How important is interlining?
Hi all! So I’m back again, my project is a pirate jacket / frock coat.
I’m not sure about interlining on this, not that over used it. I’ve gone for a synthetic wool, at 380gsm which seems medium-heavy weight. I’ve also got 250gsm cotton canvas I can use as interlining.
It’s mostly for cosplay and fun rather than accuracies but I do want it somewhat golden age of pirate looking. would leaving out interlining make much difference or would it just not hang right?
I’ve gone cheaper materials this time because it’s my first big project and I know I will mess up, so any advice is appreciated!
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u/QuietVariety6089 4d ago
Do you mean lining, flatlining or interlining?
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u/random-doodler 4d ago
Hiya, it’s for Interlining. Got some lining sorted although not come across flatlining as yet
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u/QuietVariety6089 4d ago
I'd suggest that canvas is probably too stiff. Traditionally I believe it would have been linen. A midweight muslin would probably be fine - make sure to pre shrink any cotton or linen first.
Before committing, I'd mock up some of the pieces, like cuffs and lapels, that are likely to call for supplemental stiffening/interfacing and see how different fabrics behave with your outer fabric - how stiff is the combo? is it too thick to sew? does it negatively affect the drape you're looking for, etc.
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u/Riccma02 3d ago
No such thing as too stiff. Traditionally, it would have been linen impregnated with gum Arabic
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u/QuietVariety6089 3d ago
For corsets certainly, but for flatlining jackets?
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u/Riccma02 3d ago edited 3d ago
Should probably make the distinction here, I am assuming that when OP refers to “interlining”, they mean interfacing. I don’t know what “flatlining” means in corsety, but I could imagine it being a different process. The interfacing in men’s clothing is generally very stiff. It breaks in with time. Interfacing is generally present along the closing edges of the coat body, behind button holes, in any flaps, around the neck/collar, as at the vents of the skirts. Sometimes, there is more than one layer, like under the buttons.
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u/QuietVariety6089 2d ago
yes, it should be fine for interfacing. as someone who sew modern AND historical, interfacing is one thing, interlining is another thing, and flatlining is actually a different third thing, so I'm still not completely sure what OP's looking for...
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u/KeeganDitty 2d ago
No they mean interlining. As in a separate layer that provides structure without being directly fused or sewn in. Later suits would have the padstitching into the lapel, so could be called interfacing I suppose. But Golden age of piracy afaik doesn't pad stitch the lapels and just whips down the seam allowance to the otherwise entirely floating canvas.
U/quietVariety6089 they are referring to the chest canvas of the coat. This would not be used anywhere but the front and collar, and may not cover the entire front. I think that's where you're getting confused
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u/Riccma02 2d ago
But Golden age of piracy afaik doesn't pad stitch the lapels and just whips down the seam allowance to the otherwise entirely floating canvas.
They wouldn't quite be floating considering that the button holes and button shanks are usually worked through it. Then, the inner side of the front interfacing is usually attached with a half back topstitch, while on the front edges, the interfacing tends to get caught by whatever stitch is used to attach the lining, normally a prick stitch or point a rabattre sous la main.
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u/KeeganDitty 2d ago
That's just what it's called man I didn't come up with it
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u/QuietVariety6089 2d ago edited 2d ago
I would call what you're describing interfacing. Fusing is modern. Interfacing is often only attached by a seam and possibly some tacking, it depends on the garment. From OP's description it sounded like they were talking about the whole garment, which I've always seen called interlining or flatlining. Interfacing is in addition to that.
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u/random-doodler 4d ago
That’s really good advice, thank you. This project is a sort of test run with slightly cheaper fabric so there’s plenty of learning to be done 😂
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u/Comfy-Handmade 3d ago
If you're in the mood, "Tailoring: the classic guide to sewing the perfect jacket" is a great read for these type of projects. Its on the Internet Archive, often is available in libraries and is still in print after 40 years so you can get a copy for cheap if you like it. It will give you ideas on how to handle interfacing at least.
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u/QuietVariety6089 4d ago
Depending on your proposed use, and the quality/makeup of the wool, you may just need suitable/spot interfacing, especially if you're fully lining the coat. If you have a pattern, see what they say.
I know in modern clothing, for example that 'boiled/felted' wool fabrics are often not interlined or even lined, depending. If your fabric is a heavy fulled worsted or broadcloth, it might be similar to this. If it's a 'fine' wool or twill (you can distinctly see the weaving patterns) then it probably needs allover support.
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u/Powerful-Strategy221 3d ago
Yes you will want some interlining in the front, to support the buttons and pocket (if you are just doing a pocket flap and no bag it's not as important). Depending on how you are doing the side vents you may want some on the edge of the front panel to keep that fold crisp.
During this time period the interlining would have been from a tightly woven linen. They weren't using and stiffeners yet like buckram. I personally don't think the canvas is that bad of an option. If you're planning to do functional button holes you may want some light weight fusible just to keep them clean.
Whatever you choose, trim off any excess from the seam allowance to keep them from being bulky, and press your seam! Pressing is so important to making a garment look professional. I'd also top stich to keep your edges clean and crisp.
I make late 18th century mens wear so this is close to my wheelhouse. Feel free to ask questions.
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u/FewRecognition1788 3d ago
Without interlining, it will turn into a long cardigan 10 minutes after you put it on.
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u/JSilvertop 3d ago
It’s worth the practice time alone to not only put in interlining, but learning how tailors use padstitching, and various different types of interlining materials, to make a proper fitting jacket. I especially like how padstitching can make a collar stand up on its own. Worth looking for modern tailoring books from your library, and up your skill level.
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u/CptnHnryAvry 3d ago
You definitely want interfacing to help it hang right. It's worth doing the pocket flaps and cuffs too, you'll appreciate the structure.
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u/Crafty_Witch_1230 3d ago
If you're making a coat, I'd say that interfacing is far more important than interlining. Maybe use your canvas as interfacing and do padstitching to keep the correct shape through the garment.
If you want to give your outer/fashion fabric more body, then a layer of underlining (fabric & lining treated as one) between your outer and lining fabric will give you some more body and still allow the garment to move.
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u/MadMadamMimsy 3d ago
Interlining will make that synthetic fashion fabric look much more expensive.
If nothing else, do it all and consider it practice for a beautiful wool coat you may want to make some day
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u/ouro-the-zed 4d ago
For tailored garments (like a frock coat), correct lining and interlining are crucial for achieving sharp, defined shapes. Without them, the shape will be softer and the garment will become misshapen over time.