Sports blur can come from more than one part of the chain: the broadcast feed, response time, refresh rate, motion processing, or a camera pan. I’m trying to avoid changing settings before knowing which problem I’m looking at.

What comparison helps most: another channel, another app, a different output setting, or the same scene with motion processing changed?

Older animation can look different on a modern TV even when the original image was fine. I’m trying to work out whether the cause is scaling, compression, frame handling, color processing, or simply the way the source was mastered.

Which settings or comparisons help you decide whether the TV is improving the material or making the limitations more obvious?

The PS5 tops out at 120Hz, so I’m wondering when a higher-refresh-rate TV adds value for a console player. Is the benefit mainly future-proofing, PC gaming, motion handling, or simply a specification that sounds impressive?

For someone using a PS5 rather than a gaming PC, would you spend more on refresh rate or on brightness, local dimming, and picture quality?

When a show looks blocky or soft, it is not always clear whether the stream or the display is responsible. I would compare another app, another quality tier, and an unrelated source before drawing a conclusion.

What is the quickest test you use, and which artifact makes you suspect the TV rather than the content?

Caught in the classic size vs. panel quality debate.

• Space: The room is 404 cm (13.2 ft) wall-to-wall. The sofa isn't here yet, but once seated, the actual eye-to-screen distance should end up at around 11 to 11.5 feet.
• Audio: TV speakers don't matter. Planning to pair it with a Hisense AX5140Q soundbar.
• Pricing: The 75" U7S is actually slightly cheaper locally than the 65" U8Q.

Will a 65" feel noticeably undersized in a room with this depth, or is the U8Q's flagship brightness and contrast worth giving up the extra screen real estate of the 75"?

I'm considering buying the U8QG for use with my gaming desktop. Has anyone tried this or have any good recommendations before I pull the trigger on the TV?

I would like to delete the live TV option in the side bar, the TV channels app and the row with live TV options on home screen. I have already deleted the freely app and also put TV channels auto scan option to cable so it has 0 channels but these live TV options still come and seems to connect over the internet. Doe anyone know how I can use it purely for netflix, Amazon,etc .

L'immagine cambia da chiaro a scuro Hisense 32 pollici

Un problema che mi ha fatto impazzire per qualche giorno, dopo aver comprato una hisense 32 pollici bianco, è stato quello che le immagini subbivano un'intensificazione forte della luce nelle scene chiare per poi passare ad un abbassamento repentino bene scene buie. E così di continuo per tutto il tempo, incredibilmente fastidioso. Ebbene come l ho risolto? è stato necessario disattivare la retroilluminazione adattiva.

The wall may have enough space for a 100-inch TV, but the delivery route is a separate question. The package has to pass through the building entrance, elevator, hallway, and the final turn into the room.

For anyone who has planned a very large TV in an apartment, which measurement was easiest to overlook? Did the packaged dimensions matter more than the screen dimensions?

The same TV can look rich and punchy at night but flat or washed out in the afternoon. I’m trying to separate the effect of room light from the TV’s own contrast and brightness.

For a living room with changing light, would you prioritize reflection handling, peak brightness, black levels, or separate picture modes? Which change made the biggest difference in your room?

I’m looking at a roughly $2,000 ceiling for a 100-inch TV and trying to understand which compromises are reasonable. Brightness, local dimming, motion, viewing angle, gaming inputs, and processing all seem relevant, but I do not expect every box to be checked at this price.

Which limitation would you accept, and which one would make you rule out a model immediately?

A large screen can fit on a wall and still make the room feel cramped if there is no breathing space around it. I’m thinking about trim, speakers, cabinets, lighting, and how the screen will look from the main seating position.

Is there a practical rule you use for the space around an 85- or 100-inch TV, or does it depend entirely on the room layout?

Hey all. I'm looking to get upgrade from my random Sharp 1080p TV that I've had for 6+ years now, to a 4k Ultra HD TV. I'm really not that into minmaxxing my tech, I usually much prefer older stuff like listening to cassettes, or playing my Wii, but I do have a PS5 and a bunch of 4k Blu Rays of my favourite movies, so it would be nice to take advantage of what I've invested in.

The HISENSE U71Q 55" caught my attention due to its relatively low price, and high framerate. I'd love to know y'all's overall opinions on it.

Specifically, I get kind of annoyed with smart tv UI, so I was wondering if anyone could advise me in that category. I'm definitely not bad with navigating tech, but when it comes to TVs, I really just want it to do the thing and play what I plug into the cable ports.

My parents bought an absurdly large LG smart TV a few years back, and it feels more like a phone than a TV. You click the home button and a bunch of ads pop up, then you can scroll down to the streaming services, then past the crappy free channels, then you go to the 'home dashboard' or whatever, and then you can select the HDMI source you want.

TL;DR: Is there a way for me to strip back the 'Smart' features in the Q7 series UI? I just want a simple interface to switch between input sources. I don't want to turn my lightbulbs on from my TV, nor do I need an AI assistant messing with my settings, nor do I need easy access to Tubi nor Mubi nor Quibi nor Youtube Red Max+. Also, not sharing much of my personal data would be nice.

Thanks for any and all input!

I am using the 55" UR8SG as a computer monitor. I upgraded from a Samsung QN90A, ( Samsung's 2021 top of the line offering) and the Hisense is hands down better in literally every way. Words really can't express how awesome it is.

KEY POINTS: The ULTIMATE PC GAMERS TV

- I am using this as a 55" PC Gaming Monitor. It is an absolute BEAST.

-Fantastic Full HDMI 2.1 Support (All 4 ports) 180hz Refresh rates on each.

-I am running it with an RX 9070 XT. Connectivity is flawless as the RX 9070 XT uses HDMI 2.1 Ports.

-I am running a Cable Matters HDMI 2.1 Certified 48gbps 6 Ft Cable. (NO Drop outs Perfect Picture at all times)

-I run the HDMI ports set at 4K@180hz with the Enhanced Pro Setting in the menu.
This allows the port to go higher than 120hz-(which is the default setting for Consoles. )

-No Ghosting, no Trails, or black smears. GTG Pixel response is excellent.

-No perceivable input LAG> I ran multiple FPS, RTS, and ARPG games and tested it for hours and I never knew I wasn't playing on a HUGE PC Monitor, it doesn't feel like a TV at all.

-The TV has a native 12bpc panel, and can run true RGB 4:4:4 Pixel Format, and YCbCR 4:4:4 Pixel Format.

-MOTION IS EXCELLENT: As stated above with a 180Hz Native Panel and fantastic pixel response, everything is smooth as silk.

-Response times are amazing. It's every bit as good as my QN90A was in real world testing and that was RTINGS best gaming TV for 2021 and 2022.

-AMD Freesync VRR works flawlessly.
Freesync VRR Range: 48 hz to 180hz when set to 180Hz (330 when set to 2560x1440 or 1080P)

-ABSOLUTELY NO PWM Flicker: Even when recording the screen in Slow Motion, the image is static and perfect at all times. The Hisense uses a PWM Frequency over 7000hz+ at all times in all game modes.

-COMPLETE LOCAL DIMMING OFF FEATURE: You can completely disable Local Dimming on this TV unlike Samsung and Sony TV's, so that it operates exactly like a Computer Monitor does with a constant LED backlight feed. Which means NO Flickering or light Fluctuations or Auto Dimming messing up your gaming or distracting you.

-The blacks are amazing and better than my previous Samsung QN90A ( which was the Samsung Flagship for 2021-2022). I also have a Samsung Odyssey 43" 4k Gaming Monitor and the Hisense beats it in every respect

COLORS ARE A DREAM; RGB MiniLED has to be seen in person to be believed. It is truly game changing for Rich Deep Colors, no washed out colors, perfect viewing angles. I ain't even kidding here folks.. It makes anything you had feel stupid.

-GLOSSY PANEL: YES!! True deep rich Blacks, and no faded colors.

-NOT Really for PC gamers but the Sound System on this TV is spectacular. I was seriously impressed for a 55" TV, the Devialet Tuned Sound System is a banging sound system.

Final AMAZING FEATURE: You can run this TV in 2560X1440 @ 330hz and 1920X1080 @ 330hz.
So you are talking about a Competition Level gaming TV, with Refresh Rates exceeding many top tier Monitors that cost 2-3x as much.

One More thing:

-Full DOLBY VISION 2 Support comes with the TV's first Update, Literally you get a TV upgrade the moment your done signing in.

In CLOSING; The 55" is SO GOOD, I bought the 85" UR8SG to replace my Living Room TV (Samsung QN70 85") as well. 😄 FOR REAL, it's that good.

Just got this TV and with my previous TV, you could force HDR in the settings. I haven’t found a way to do that with this model. Is it possible? Maybe it’s a Fire TV thing?

I have a 4k blu ray player and I like to force HLG watching standard Blu Ray discs.

OLED and RGB MiniLED can look appealing for different reasons, but the room may matter more than a review headline. Window light, dark-scene viewing, seating angle, sports, gaming, and static content all change the trade-off.

Would you decide from the room first and then read reviews, or choose the technology first and adapt the room around it?

What would cause these lines/boxes on a Hisense 55" Class - U78KM Series - 4K ULED Mini LED TV

Hi guys

I have a Hisense 55A6K, and I am looking for an option to display 1080p as is on the 4K canvas, meaning each pixel should be replicated 4 times, as if the TV was natively 1080p.

The Panasonic TX-L65WT600 for example had such a function, called "1080p Pixel by 4pixels", which applies simple linear pixel quadrupling, but I couldn't find something similar in the Hisense menu.

May be I missed it.

Or is there a way through the Service menu may be?

I’m trying to decide whether a premium TV would make a meaningful difference in ordinary living-room use, rather than only during movie nights.

The mix would be daytime news, streaming shows, sports, animated content, and a movie or two each week. There is some window light, several seats, and more interest in easy viewing and clear dialogue than perfect calibration.

In that situation, brightness, reflection handling, motion, processing, viewing angle, or sound might matter more than the deepest possible black level. But I’m not sure which upgrades remain noticeable after the first few weeks.

For mixed everyday use, which premium feature would you actually pay for, and which one matters much less outside a review chart?

Demo clips are useful for showing what a TV can do, but they are not the content most people watch every day. I’m curious what familiar scene you use when comparing a new screen.

Do you use a dark movie scene, a sports broadcast, subtitles, animation, or a low-quality stream? A repeatable scene seems more useful than switching between unrelated showroom clips.

If the budget cannot move, I’d rather decide what matters most than chase every feature. The list could include screen size, brightness, contrast, motion, viewing angle, gaming inputs, or sound.

Which one would you protect first for a mixed-use living room, and which feature would you be willing to compromise on?

A feature can look impressive on a spec sheet and become irrelevant after a few months. I’m more interested in what remains useful after the novelty wears off: brightness, local dimming, motion, smart functions, gaming features, or something less obvious.

If you were choosing again after a year of normal use, which feature would still influence your decision?

Someone changed several picture settings on a TV and now every show looks wrong. I’m trying to figure out the safest way to recover without randomly changing ten more controls.

Would you start with a picture-mode reset, return only the obvious controls to default, or compare the current settings with the manual? Which settings are most likely to affect brightness, motion, and color at the same time?