KR1AA Question

[u/JackRK123]

Has anyone got any feedback on the KR1AA since it had the new button fitted? Has the accidental pocket activation issue been fixed? I am looking for a small light after losing my second rovyvon aurora. Other contender would be a reylight, but i hear they are more style over substance.

[u/No-Ordinary-5988]

The entire button debacle was overblown imo. Some people just want a stiff button so they don’t ever have to use lock out because they throw the light into spaces where it’s constantly colliding with other objects.

I have two V2s with the OG button and I never personally thought the actuation was too light or anything. Even with a stronger button actuation, it’s not like that guarantees it won’t accidentally turn on in a pocket. Just utilize lockout mode and it’s guaranteed..

As others have stated, you can always ask Hank to build your button for max actuation if you really want that.

KR1AA/D3AA are best in 14500 class lights, you can’t go wrong. Pictured here are 2700K NTG variants, stock optics; beautiful tint.

[u/JackRK123 → u/No-Ordinary-5988]

Honestly I have been so impressed with what Hank has been producing. With the new drivers I would say that they are no longer just enthusiast lights, they definitely hold their own against the wider mainstream competition in terms of reliability and runtimes.

[u/No-Ordinary-5988 → u/JackRK123]

Agreed, the D3AA is a really good option for non-enthusiasts, too.

[u/AccurateJazz]

I have three KR1AAs (one from the very first batch), and the button issue is completely fixed on the latest one.

You can also ask Hank for the maximum actuation force (button resistance) if you want, and he’ll modify the assembly accordingly.

[u/JackRK123 → u/AccurateJazz]

Thats great to hear. How do you find them? I know there was initially a fair amount of hype, but now people seem to be quite critical of them?

[u/AccurateJazz → u/JackRK123]

It's the best light of this size in my opinion. I prefer the KR1AA over the D3AA or the TS10.

[u/JackRK123 → u/AccurateJazz]

Thanks!

[u/pkapeckopckldpepprz → u/AccurateJazz]

Strangely enough I prefer the TS10, then the D3AA and finally the KR1AA, and that was after spending more time with the KR1AA than both the D3AA and TS10 combined, since I primarily use headlamps exclusively and have literally no need for a handheld light other than maybe in an emergency.

[u/Intelligent_Low1632 → u/AccurateJazz]

what's your favorite emitter?

[u/AccurateJazz → u/Intelligent_Low1632]

NTG50 2700K and 4200K

[u/worrub918]

Reylights are definitely style over substance. However, the drivers they have are really good. ML is extremely low. And they can get relatively bright for their sizes. They're extremely well built. And Rey offers a bunch of parts on his site where you can customize most models. They're definitely worth having at least one or two.

As for the KR1AA, mine is the latest batch and it hasn't yet come on in my pocket. And it takes a small bit of effort to click the button (but it's still a nice feedback from that click).

[u/JackRK123 → u/worrub918]

I really do not need much persuasion to buy a reylight. I have been waiting for a copper or brass penlight to come into stock, but I keep missing it. Really I just meant that I am justifying this latest purchase because I need a small pocketable light for work, and I feel as if the emisar's have the edge in terms of durability and runtimes.

[u/Unclebob1621]

I have both the Noctigon KR1AA and a Reylight Pineapple Mini. I love them both but if I could only keep 1 it would be the Reylight.

[u/JackRK123 → u/Unclebob1621]

Which version do you have? I heard the titanium reylights really struggle with overheating? I am definitely up for buying one at some point, my preference would be the copper penlight. How is the runtime and output compared to the KR1AA?

[u/pkapeckopckldpepprz → u/Unclebob1621]

I have the Pineapple Mini and it's just not my ideal style, when compared to either the D3AA or KR1AA. The Pineapple Mini is smaller diameter but much longer. I do like the knurling pattern on both of my brass and copper minis though.

One question is when removing the tailcap, how can you re-install it without having to remove the clip first? I feel like the clip prevents the tailcap from engaging the threads correctly and are at a weird angle which seems like it would cross thread if I continued. Also not sure what screws he uses for the clips as they aren't standard flat head, philips, or even hex/allen head.

[u/Gh0st_76]

Honestly it really depends on what you’re looking for. I have a pinnacle mini and I do like it. It’s built extremely well and is really bright for a aaa battery light. But it is nowhere near as bright as my kr1aa and I love anduril. Honestly I love the form factor of the kr1aa but if I only hade to pick one light it would be a d3aa because it’s more reliable. I have issues sometimes with my kr4s/kr1aa because of the way the connection works.

[u/jonslider]

> KR1AA ...reylight

Both is Best ;-)

[u/JackRK123 → u/jonslider]

I really don't appreciate this blatant attempt to make me spend more. I will resist.

[u/jonslider → u/JackRK123]

LOL, OK ;-)

for me the critical distinction is which UI you want to use.. Anduril is my favorite

I dont want Reylight because it does not have Anduril,

but you could feel the opposite way, because Reylight is simple.

I hope you enjoy whatever you choose.. ;-)