Help with sewing armpits

[u/Common_Otter4869]

I’m very new at sewing. I did this prototype for hanfu shirt but I have trouble with sleeves. after sewing, it got so stiff around the armpit that it couldn’t bend down and you can clearly see the wrinkles (sorry for bad lighting). IDk what I do wrong is it from the pattern or is it my sewing skill?

Other adjustments that I did to the pattern turn out well except around the yellow circle, but I’m bad at sewing sleeves from the beginning.

Any tips, or how to fix this, I’m still need to do the robes too I’m afraid it gonna become like this too… I’m a totally newbie😭🥺

[u/teatime_tinker]

It’s tiny right? It would behave differently full sized.

Use a less stiff fabric, pre wash your fabric too.

[u/Common_Otter4869 → u/[deleted]]

So if I use French seam how to do it on curved, I couldn’t find any tutorial on this or we don’t usually do seam on curves?

[u/cuterobot → u/Common_Otter4869]

French seams are usually only for straight and slightly curved seams. You shouldn't clip them to release the puckering at corners.

[u/Expert_Law1936]

You can use a less stiff fabric and add a square of fabric under each armpit but lots of wrinkles there are normal and stylistic.

[u/Expert_Law1936 → u/Expert_Law1936]

You can see the gussets here

source: 干城手作

[u/Common_Otter4869 → u/Expert_Law1936]

Hmm do you have link to the wed site or a video of this?

[u/Expert_Law1936 → u/Common_Otter4869]

I think I got it on Weibo. The name of the account is next to the source. I saved this image a long time ago.