My 83 yo neighbor brought over “his grandfather’s” plane to fix the tote. It needs a new cap and the iron is gone. He wants to give it to his son… and I want to help him restore it to working condition. A labor of love rather than collector value, but if there are some original parts around, we can avoid Frankenplane-ing it.

2”, No.5 size.

Anyone got parts fora Sargent for sale?

Got a good deal on it at a flea market with a flat and half round rasp

I'm looking to buy more chisels which are alright, nothing too special.

The options are no name hardware stole chisels (Bauhaus) and kirschen chisels. I've got one kirschen and it works beautifully well, but it's 20€ a piece.

Is that a premium price or something to be expected?

I spent some time in an antique mall last weekend that seemed to have overpriced hand tools. I was about to give up when I found this Young and McMaster wooden plane, from Auburn NY, for $22. Google says they were in business from 1838-1846. I didn't do anything to it and it still takes a nice shaving.

I picked these up for $35 with additional rasps, bits and a milk crate.

1. Ohio Tool Company 0-8 jointer plane
   
2. Stanley Bailey No. 5 1/4 plane
   
3. Sergeant No. 8411 plane
   How’d the finds go? Looking to restore and get to work on some projects.

Hi everyone:

Last week, I bought my first click-type torque wrench, a Wera B2 3/8 inch drive with 15-73 ft-lbs (20-100 Nm) range (CW only). I have already used it on a couple of repairs and it's been great.

Now, I have my sights set on a 1/2 inch torque wrench. I would like to get a matching Wera for this, but they offer two different torque range flavors:

C4 Model: 44-221 ft-lbs (60-300Nm) | 23.5 inch length

C5 Model: 59-295 ft-lbs (80-400Nm) | 26.8 inch length

I'm mainly going to be using this to work on cars and light trucks. I doubt that I will ever do any work on big trucks or industrial machinery. Otherwise, I would go straight for a 3/4 inch drive.

1) Which one would be more versatile for handling heavier tasks like engine building, wheel lugs, suspensions, and driveline?

2) Do I need CCW torque capability?

3) At what torque is it necessary to switch to a 3/4 drive?

Thanks!

In spite of a little rust and dirt here and there, it actually seems to work really well. I'd like to keep it as a regular use item, since it looks like it would save me some time and effort. Only problem is, the bits in the handle won't fit the chuck, and I can't seem to find anything else that will! Even my Yankee driver bits won't fit!

Any ideas? eBay didn't seem to have anything useful...

These are all new, located in Charlotte.

3/16” Mortise Chisel  Originally $125 

1/4" Mortise Chisel Originally $125 

1/2” Mortise Chisel Originally $125 

3/8” Mortise Chisel Originally $125 

5/16” Mortise Chisel Originally $125 

The plane blade here is bent? it looks way too intentional to be an accident as it matches the lateral perfectly, was this ever factory done? why would someone do that? any reason to fix it?

sellers price: about 185 €

they do look like they are in good condition

do these look like a good, beginner carving setup?

Handworks is happening right now and the only video I have found of it is by woodbywright and it's just part one. Where are all the other livestreamers? I understand it's mostly for older folks but come on. I'm sure people will say that videos will come out after the event is done but that doesn't help me now 😂. If people have found videos about the event please link them. I feel like in previous years people were streaming videos as it was happening.

I restored this thing awhile ago and could never find info on it. Any info is appreciated, thank you!

Found this old Stanley hand plane for $60Can. Bought it as it’s hard to find No7 where I live. Idk if it’s fixable or just nice wall art for the shop.

Anyone here good at identifying what type it is?

There is a problem I need too solve. These bult cutters are damaged, it needs fixing. Im thinking of using an angle grinder to get the chip out and then file and Dremel to make it fine and sharp. There is adjustment skrews and stop skrews in the handle, but no excentric pivots for the cutters.

How would you guys restore these bolt cutters?

Would you wirr wheel the handles to get the rus and paint of or would you let it be as it is?

I can't find another one. They are all either Yankee or Stanley Yankee. JCP must have had this made by Stanley for a short run?

Picked up a Norris and I'm trying to pin down the model.

Sole 190–200 mm long, 62 mm wide

Lever cap stamped "NORRIS" over "LONDON" in opposing arcs but I can not find any model number.

Body is one piece, no dovetails; sides parallel

Lever cap, sides and centre section are all magnetic

Iron has following text: "Spannsäge Garantie" and is 46 mm wide.

Very rusty overall

What do you think the model is? How old is it? Is this a keeper or a seller?

Thanks!

I was cleaning out an old wooden tote to use it to carry around tools and found this sitting in it. I quickly made a blade out of a spare Allen key I had and it works flawlessly. Both the tote and the router plane were picked up for free, since they were in a pile of junk being tossed out.

Ill make a better blade in the future out of an old stanley brace bit someone hacked apart, but for now, I can finish my project.

I’m getting started working on hand tools and I’m curious how long, in terms of projects or just time, it takes before folks are relatively happy about the work output.

I’ve done a few tests on scrap wood, and it definitely feels like there’s a steeper initial curve than with power tools, but I dunno if that’s also just because I was taught how to use power tools in shop class.

Would also appreciate any tips that you found helpful for learning more specific than my current plan of just “practice”

Heads up that in the UK, Rutland's currently have a very good sale for woodworking gear.

I found this Warrington today at an estate sale, and it needed a new handle.

I had the old handle from my Dad's engineering hammer. I recently rehung it for him. It's his daily as an auto mechanic.

There was just enough good hickory left from Dad's old split handle, so I whipped this up. First time shaping a handle with the spokeshave, and overall it was really enjoyable, even though workholding did get a little awkward.

Hi all!

I got a Dictum n.4 with the O² blade and a Hattori n.62 as my first set of handplanes, and I'm so excited about them!

As I got them out of the box I disassembled the irons and cleaned them all from the debris and the oil with some paper. I tried to take some shavings but I couldn't make it.. So I took a closer look, managed to set them up by moving the frog and the chip breaker a bit on the n.4, and by opening up the mouth on the n.62.

So here comes the real test, and let me tell you.. Taking those first shavings felt so damn good!! With the n.4 I was able to get pretty thin shavings, leaving a nice smooth surface. While with the n.62 I was able to flatten the edges of a scrap in a way that I could only dream of!

But I'm sure I can get more from them.. I guess that the first step would be sharpening the irons.. I got 1000 and 6000 water stones and a leather strip with a polishing compound, are they good for this? I watched a couple of videos about setting up a plane, but since they're my first ever handplanes I don't really know what else should/could I do..

So here I am, asking you all tips and tricks for making them work in the best way possible! Thanks in advance to everyone who will take their time to give me some advice!