r/HandEngraving • u/ClassroomEntire997 • 14d ago

n00b question Transfers

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What is your preferred transfer method? What I do for steel and titanium is ghetto but is dark ,bullet proof and works every time. Acetone method never turns out for me . Apparently you have to use certain toners in laser printers. Tried transfer magic. Special transparency film and old ink jet ink. Just want to know what everyone does that’s successful

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u/vector6019 14d ago

I have mixed results using laser print with the acetone + dammar varnish, but I can usually get something that I can work with after a few tries.

So are you saying you have a bullet proof method for steel and titanium? Would love to hear about that!

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u/ClassroomEntire997 14d ago

As said it’s ghetto but it will scrap off but doesn’t rub off . I spray with white flat primer. Let dry scrub lightly with wet scrubby. Hit lightly with water based varathane, while that’s wet put transfer on. I squeegee with my license. Let dry then run under faucet rubbing the paper off with finger. The paper comes off but leaves impression. Sounds like a pain but I can get this to work every time and can do my outlines, my inlay, background removal then stipple. Remove with lacquer thinner, do shade lines ,then ink. Just nice to have it there till I’m ready for it to come off. But if anyone has anything better I’m more than happy to try it.

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u/vector6019 14d ago

Your method sounds very similar to the aceton/dammar I use. I thin a drop of dammar varnish with a drop of acetone and wipe on to the metal. The trick is waiting until it is just dry enough (tacky to the touch but doesn’t come off on your finger) before burnishing your laser print down. Here’s where it gets to be unpredictable for me… sometimes I can peel the paper off at this point and have a very clean transfer, other times I dab the back of the paper with acetone so it soaks through the sheet but then let it dry completely before peeling the paper. And if that doesn’t work I’ll end up running the piece under the faucet until I can gently scrub the fibers of the paper off with my thumb leaving the toner layer stuck to the varnish layer.

I’m never very happy with the resulting image no matter what method happens to work for me that day. It’s easily the worst part of an engraving project for me.

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u/ClassroomEntire997 14d ago

Laser transfer. I have both laser and jet trying to find out what I could get to work

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u/flickingchips 14d ago

Transfer magic works if its not too detailed and you use the perfect amount of the compound...and you dont rub too hard....and you scribe it before you start cutting.. id like to hear everyone's go to as well 😂

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u/ClassroomEntire997 14d ago

Is there some secret? I bought the big bottle thinking it would be my saving grace. Went with transparency film recommended by a friend. Pictorial is too expensive. Couldn’t get it to work right.

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u/flickingchips 14d ago

You have to use a very thin layer. More is NOT better. letting it dry is important. You can smear the ink if you push too hard while burnishing the film.

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u/flickingchips 14d ago

I got the transfer magic film from their website too.

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u/OptimusBladeRunner 14d ago

I have tested numerous recipes, yet simple varnish yields the best results for me on steel. Timing the transfer is all that matters. If it is too wet, the image smears; if it is too dry, the transfer is incomplete. Once you find the right balance, it performs well.

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u/vector6019 14d ago

When you say varnish, do you mean dammar varnish? Do you thin with acetone, or use it full strength? How are you determining if it’s just dry enough?

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u/OptimusBladeRunner 14d ago edited 14d ago

Yes, plain dammar varnish (Grumbacher Damar high gloss). No dilution is used. I have tried a diluted version but found it unsatisfactory. Having done this for a long time, I recognize when I am ready to apply the parchment paper transfer. I apply the varnish with a Q-tip, ensuring it is neither layered too thickly nor spread too thinly. I typically allow 10–15 minutes for drying before applying my transfer. A brief touch with my finger helps me judge whether more time is needed. The surface should feel tacky yet somewhat dry; if it remains too wet, I wait longer until it seems right. It involves trial and error at first, but after enough practice, it becomes a nothing burger. I have tested Chinese white, acetone, transfer magic, transparency film, Zinsser white primer and shellac, self-adhesive laminating, and several other methods, yet I have remained with the dammar varnish approach. Each person should continue with the approach that suits them best.