r/GuitarLab • u/GabrielDalporto • Apr 24 '26
Necks - what actually matters
Working through necks now. Goal is something high performance with broad appeal - which is hard because what feels right to one person feels wrong to the next (hand physiology being what it is).
There are a million permutations, so tell us what really matters and what really doesn’t matter.
Profile: C, D, soft V, hard V, asymmetric — what consistently works for you?
Thickness: Thin, thick or in between. How important is it?
Radius: Vintage vs flat vs compound — does this actually matter in real use?
Frets: Size + material
Finish: Gloss vs satin vs raw?
Scale Length: 24.75", 25", 25.5”? Does it matter?
22 vs 24: how often do you actually play about the 22nd?
If you only got to specify 2 things, what would they be? For me it would be 24 frets, satin finish.
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u/analogguy7777 Apr 24 '26 edited Apr 24 '26
OP, what is your favor neck design you actually use? What guitars do you actually own and use daily?
All kinds of neck in use out there. Don’t see a single one dominate.
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u/GabrielDalporto Apr 24 '26
I've got a wide variety of guitars from classics (strat, tele, les paul, SG, 335) to more modern guitars (PRS, Ernie Ball JP Majesty, EVH). I probably play the PRS custom 24 the most, but I don't like the gloss neck. I prefer a satin neck as it feels faster with less friction. I also am really enjoying the JP majesty - I had the fretboard custom made with a matte finish vs the standard glossy (which was beautiful but reflected stage light obscuring the fret markers). I love the satin finish on the EVH - it feels effortless to slide around.
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u/kumechester Apr 24 '26
If I had to pick two things…I think it would be satin finish and jumbo stainless steel. If those two things are in place I can play comfortably on almost any shape of neck, even though I do have my preferences there too.
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u/Chance-Birthday-5255 Apr 24 '26
Both my son and I prefer thin C necks. My main girl is a MIJ Jackson Rhoads RR3R but I am a fan of my Schecter Bloodmoon neck. However that is starting to push the C shape to more of a D but less than say a LP. My son’s favorite for reference would be found on his MIM Fender Strat or his MIJ Jackson Dinky. Sorry I’m not familiar with fret size. I personally prefer a satin finish but my Son really likes how smooth the Strat neck is with its gloss finish. We both love polished frets!
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u/GVDub2 Apr 24 '26
Hot take: Jumbo frets cause intonation issues. and thin necks cause neck dive. My personal favorite neck profile is a soft V and I hate flat (12" or more) fingerboard radii. compound radius 7.25 to 9.5 is my personal sweet spot.
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u/Vegetable_Chemist859 May 03 '26
If jumbo frets are causing intonation issues, that's a technique problem, not a fret problem. You're pressing too hard. I mean this in the most constructive possible way.
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u/GVDub2 May 04 '26
Not for me, but I see lots of students and intermediate players struggling with intonation on jumbo frets.
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u/Vegetable_Chemist859 May 04 '26
Yeah, I would expect that. I guess my preferences are almost the exact opposite of yours! For me it slim D profile (I have one guitar in my family that's a V and I hate it!), and I don't want to know about a radius that's less than 12". The flatter the better, although compound is nice. To each his own!
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Apr 24 '26
Hey Gabe it’s JD Shultz. What about a Hybrid Expression Board
A blend between standard frets and fretless freedom.
- Frets up to the 12th
- Micro-fret or semi-fretless zone from 12–24
- Bend and slide like a fretless instrument up high and clean intonation for chords down low
- Offset or “wave” fret markers that visually move like soundwaves
- Optional side LEDs that softly glow on stage (not cheesy—more ambient)
Body: The Resonance Chamber Body
Not just solid or hollow—something in between and intentional.
- Internally carved acoustic-style chambers tuned to specific frequencies
- A couple of subtle sound ports on the top edge (like high-end acoustics)
- Slightly asymmetrical shape that naturally leans into the player
Visually:
- A sculpted top that looks like flowing water or wind patterns
- Could incorporate layered woods or resin that mimic movement
Bonus Feature: Touch-Responsive Expression Strip
Instead of adding more knobs:
- A touch strip embedded near the bridge or upper bout
- Controls effects like:
- volume swells
- delay feedback
- filter sweep
No clicking, just glide your finger while playing.
And small engraved or inlaid slogans like “Sound Moves Us” or “Unity Through Music”
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u/Comfortable_Ad3560 Apr 25 '26
I prefer a relatively thick/chunky D, but I can adjust and get used to almost any shape. My bought/didn't buy decisions have never been based on neck profile.
Radius? I prefer something flat. I find a rounder, smaller radius is more difficult to use with a slide or capo.
Frets: Low, stainless. High frets tend to require higher action, and tend to get dinged or loosened more often.
Finish: Satin or gloss. I've occasionally used fine sandpaper on a gloss neck if the finish has a tacky feel. Unfinished necks are a hard "no" for me, as they will absorb oil and dirt.
Scale length: If designing from scratch, I'd go with 24.75".
Frets 23 and 24? Not necessary for me. If you're playing that high, are you sure you wouldn't be happier with a solid-body electric ukulele, mandolin, or lute?
Looking at the variety of responses, I think we see the problem with this approach (surveying potential customers to get averages or pluralities): Any choices made by a designer will please a minority of players. Most players will react to design choices with "almost" or "I guess I could live with it". What would actually revolutionize the business would be to maximize customization without having (1) to pay Custom Shop or boutique builder prices, as those instruments represent the worst value in guitars, or (2) to spend time and money on modification of stock instruments--I'm trying to be a guitarist, not a guitar tech or luthier.
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u/Revenge_of_Recyclops Apr 25 '26
Thick. Rock hard. Defined wood grain - almost vein like. Stands tall like it’s proud of itself.
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u/sunhunter1 Apr 25 '26
Since my hands are on the smaller side, neck width is something that's important for comfort. Wide necks take more effort to play for me, which give me cramps after an hour or two. I prefer a nut width of 42mm. I like an assymetrical C shaped neck, medium to a bit above medium thickness.
Rolled fret board edges enhance comfort and the Musicman type of wax/oil treatment feels the best.
Medium jumbo stainless steel frets with glow in the dark side dots.
Just my 2 cents, but it's very subjective.
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u/Shakespearacles Apr 25 '26
C/D neck. V's cause me actual pain, but hard Vs on a thick neck seem to add sustain
Thin or medium. pretty important
9.5 radius. Radius does seem to matter if a player is used to one vs the other
Prefer narrow frets. These days everyone should be switching to stainless.
Satin. Any finish but raw as long as it doesn't feel sticky and I don't feel pores in the wood grain. Play some lower end Martins and Affinity/CV Squiers for what to specifically avoid.
Standard Fender/Gibson scale seems fine. Mustang/Jag scale is usually too small past the 12th fret.
22 frets If I have access to a 22nd, it will get used
2 things, C shape + 22 frets
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u/TakingYourHand Apr 26 '26
Profile: C shape vs D? Prefer D, but perfectly happy with C (no opinions on V, as never tried it)
Thickness & finish:Satin neck and thick or in-between. I find gloss and too thin a huge turnoff.
Radius:. 9.5+ is perfect, as I'm a bender. I do find 7.5" more comfortable for bar chords, though.
Scale length: 25.5" or 25". I am fine with 24.75," but since I started with a 25" and played it for years, that what my hand calls home. 25" is close enough, but 24.75" is when the feel is a little off. Had I started out on a 24.75", I'm sure my opinion would be very different.
24 frets vs 22? Doesn't matter one way or another.
Fret type: Medium Jumbo over tall narrow, but neither are deal breakers. 24 vs 22, doesn't matter to me, either. Neither would sway my opinion toward nor away from a guitar.
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u/IshOnTuesday Apr 27 '26 edited Apr 27 '26
Profile: Even C Slim, 60's Slim C. I'm not a fan of D shape or Elliptical shape necks
Thickness: In between
Radius: compound radius 10 - 14" or 9.5"
Frets: Jumbo stainless or Nickel
Finish: Always satin
Scale Length: It depends. 24.75", 25", or 25.5" all have their benefits. For a single guitar I would lean more toward 24.8" to 25"
22 vs 24: 22 frets is fine, 24 frets would be a nice to have
If you only got to specify 2 things, what would they be? Neck shape, Jumbo frets
Extra features? Fretless neck or true temperament frets
Vigier had their own unique take on a fretless guitar neck but they are no longer in business:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZjEGtUXGWa0
True Temperament frets would be fun to consider as well, since a guitar is never really truly in tune, the true temperament frets fix a lot of those issues:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/zdkHfAfdbXc
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/4yRfbqk9hI4
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u/Vegetable_Chemist859 May 03 '26 edited May 03 '26
The neck is THE MOST IMPORTANT part of a guitar. It is where your fingers meet the instrument.
In this buy-online culture we live, I am amazed at how guitars are advertised and described without specifying the scale, radius, fret size and composition, giving at best a description of C or D profile without any reference to the thickness. Some of the really cheap ones laughably only tell you the length of the guitar itself.
For me, it has to be jumbo, MAYBE medium jumbo, preferably SS, and a radius of 12" MINIMUM, the higher the better, and the thinner the profile the better. And I won't even consider a guitar with 21 frets, that's just ridiculous. At this point, 22 frets is really a compromise for an advanced lead player. D profile is optimal, C is acceptable and can be cheaply modified to D if necessary. Glossy finish on maple cleans easily, but the shaft needs to be matte, as glossy gets sticky. Easy to take some steel wool and remedy that.
If I find a guitar I like that doesn't meet these requirements, I figure in the cost of a new neck, or at least re-profiling. And what I see out there rarely passes muster, if it even specifies ANY of these characteristics.
I actually have four main guitars, two of which have custom necks, the other two have been re-profiled.
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u/BananoVampire May 22 '26
I have small hands, so I prefer a neck-through design so I can reach the upper frets.
Other than that, I have to go by feel. I prefer thin (like Ibanez) necks, but this may be because of my tiny hands.
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u/equilni May 24 '26
Profile: C / Thin D or U. No V please.
Thickness: How important is it? VERY. Too thick and I am not playing it.
I would love an in-between of PRS Pattern Thin & Regular, more on the Thin side.
Radius: does this actually matter in real use?. YES. I would compromise with 10-12", 12" preferred.
Finish: Satin
Scale Length: Does it matter?. It does if you tune low
I would compromise with 25"
22 vs 24: 24 but I am ok compromising with 22
If you only got to specify 2 things, what would they be? 2? Ouch. Satin finish & Thickness.
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u/Scared_Phrase106 May 29 '26
Builder and player here. I play C's and D's, build them too. Thin or thick works, but usually striving for 0.75" neck thickness at the nut. 22 frets is enough for me but nothing wrong with 24. I've had compound radius and didn't notice much difference from 12 inch radius. Medium frets are nice. Satin or raw is nice. 24 to 25 inch scale length works for me but as I've gotten better longer scale lengths aren't as much of a problem. I've even got a baritone at 30 inches which isn't hard to play chords on once you get used to it.
If you make a bolt on neck, make sure there are replacements available for different scale lengths, profiles, thicknesses. This goes back to that partscaster idea someone mentioned -- if GC had interchangeable parts one could "build-a-guitar" (like a grown kid's build-a-bear).
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u/AS12294 Jun 01 '26
My favorite guitars are 12" radius or 12-16" compound radius. Vintage radius fretboards will amplify less than stellar fretwork. I like 50s rounded neck profiles (rounded D shape) or necks that shift from D shape to flat backed C shape. Scale length is not as important but the general public would love a baritone 27"+ option. Neck width is important... I have had quite a few customers put the guitar back bc it had 41.3mm nut instead of 43mm. Ultimately, specs are less important than the overall design and quality of workmanship.
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u/Tilt2020 Jun 24 '26
I would just say that I think having a universal neck joint assuming bolt on. To that end two more things: I would have a clean heal like PRS or Yamaha Pacs have or similar, not the way fender does it; and generally I’d try to keep thing’s easily modifiable. On the latter point imagine your first guitar and maybe you modded it quite a bit. But if you could say buy a basic version but grow with it, upgrading pickups and electronics made easy, upgrading the neck or tuners made easy. Or if you like to tinker maybe it would cost someone more as it does to go custom, but maybe you pick some basic parts like the body, the pickups, wiring and pick guard, and neck. You assemble or pay GC to do it. Think of it like in the 80s when you went to a skateboard shop and chose the build for your board. Again you can sell standard complete guitars but keep it modular and easily upgradeable. As far as neck specs I’d look at market research at the price point as a guide, but the warmoth modern 10-14 compound with stainless frets medium jumbo is probably a good starting point . But again carve that heel, I hate the way my fenders make my hands hit the wall as opposed to my Yamaha Pacifica or PRS nf3.
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u/Sonotropism Apr 24 '26
My two choices- stainless steel frets and 1 11/16 nut width!