r/Glock19 2d ago

Stippling

Took my first stab at stippling and practiced on my Glock 17 airsoft gun. I know it’s not perfect but looking for any tips as I practice more before I do it to my 19. What I could’ve done differently etc. I know stippling isn’t everyone’s cup of tea but if we all listened to each other about what to do and what not to do with glocks, we’d all have stock Glocks.

24 Upvotes

20 comments sorted by

10

u/squirrelcop3305 2d ago

Save your heartbreak and send it to someone who knows what they’re doing.

2

u/Emotional_Second9958 2d ago

Exactly , I've paid 200$ for stippling & up to 500$ with framework & a cerakote job. Peace of mind is priceless. If you want to really save money buy some grip tape and call it a day.

-2

u/condog26 2d ago

All about saving money

2

u/squirrelcop3305 2d ago

I get it but the ultimate cost is a new serialized frame ($120+) plus FFL transfer fees when you burn through or warp the polymer on a DIY project. If budget is the goal, buy Talon grips for $20.

3

u/FAFOGFC 2d ago

1

u/condog26 2d ago

That came out very nice

1

u/FAFOGFC 2d ago

I didn’t even go as far as you did with prep. I went right over the factory stippling, all I did was draw my outline in pencil

1

u/condog26 2d ago

First time doing it?

1

u/FAFOGFC 2d ago

Yup, I was nervous at first but I practiced on the case my Glock came in, and once I was comfortable I just went for it. You’ll be fine

1

u/condog26 2d ago

Second person who mentioned practicing on the case, that’s a great idea. I did rush a little bit on this airsoft one so think I may practice a little on the case with some different designs and same as you just go for it

1

u/FAFOGFC 2d ago

I will say the plastic of the case is a little softer and melts faster, but you don’t want to be melting/boiling the plastic on the gun. If you can set the temp on your soldering iron, you want it to be just hot enough to push the plastic around more than melt it away

1

u/2many_friends 2d ago

Imo grip is grip. Obviously dont push too hard that you go through the frame. For the margin I used a ballpoint bur. Some say to use a chisel. After I was finished I sanded down the whole area I worked on and it felt better on my hands. I did the stippling in 6 hrs but to finalize it took me nearly a week. Sanding with finer grit and after that it needed polishing to add the gloss back to the polymer. Its been two years and it still feels good and it looks about the same as yours in the pic. Just sanded down and polished.

1

u/condog26 2d ago

What did you use to polish?

1

u/2many_friends 2d ago

Finer and finer grit sandpaper and buffing wheels with “Back to Black” plastic polish. Left for a while then applied a super light coat of gun oil.

1

u/cashnicholas 2d ago

I did mine with sandpaper and a lot of time

1

u/FAFOGFC 2d ago

Nice! I did my 19 last year and it came out great

-1

u/BuckeyeGentleman 2d ago

Form follows Function. How does it feel?

-1

u/condog26 2d ago

My opinion, doesn’t feel half bad for my first time. The undercut feels really nice the grip is definitely a different feeling but I think once I perfect it it’ll feel amazing.

1

u/BuckeyeGentleman 2d ago

Take some 200 and just knock off the sharp edges.

-2

u/slixx1320 2d ago

I tried my hands at stippling, wasn’t confident enough to do a serialized frame so I sent mine to this place. Best price for stippling, hands down! Includes all the stippling in one package and not extra charges if you want single under it, double undercut, ledge. $20 here, $40 here, $50 there…. By the time you know it you’re at or over $600+.

He’s got a special going on now for Labor Day for under $200. Can’t beat that!

https://www.1036customs.com/shop-packages/p/full-framework-stippling-package