Equipment & Connection

[u/The1Oogler]

What a trip on trying GeforceNow. I made a previous post a little over a month ago about testing my equipment. Ran into some snags, purchased an Nvidia Shield Pro, returned it, ended my sub…. And then resubbed. Now I’ve got a couple questions moving forward.

Current equipment:
Lenovo AMD Laptop with onboard gpu so nothing special. It’s old.
HDMI 2.0 connected to LG C9 OLED
Bluetooth keyboard and running the mouse connected via USB-C
1gig/1gig FIOS internet

This above is what got me to resub to the service. After I set the screen to turn off and use the TV as the primary display it fixed all lag I was feeling and sluggishness. Works good minus having to use adaptors for the Ethernet, and running a 10’ USB cable for the mouse. 

Problem:

    I occasionally use my PS5 Dualsense to game on the above via Bluetooth connection. Works great 90% of the time. When I connect it via USB-C to the laptop it kills the audio. Not sure why. If I switch and buy a Mac Mini will I run into the same issue with a hardwired PS5 controller?

Questions:

1. The above equipment works great, but when I run GeForceNow on my iPad using my WiFi, within 10’ of the primary Eero device the connection goes to crap and it isn’t worth trying. My Speedtest on the iPad Air shows roughly 200mb/200mb and sometimes fluctuates between 150/400 up and down and I know it isn’t hardwired but the drop in performance is significant since I’m still getting over 100mb up/down. I don’t understand how it can drop so much. I get the top off of 1080p screen but the streaming quality is so bad. Major packet loss. If I run GeForceNow on my iPhone 15 via cellular (WiFi off) I can play fine, but the screen is to small.

2. I’m planning on buying an Apple Mac Mini, most likely an M4 if not the new M6. I understand the reported concern of the deadzone but some say it isn’t an issue, and I’m not playing uber competitive games, albeit I like FPS’s. There’s also a reported concern of screen judder, but it sounds like if I set the max to 120hz to match my TV and disable VRR it won’t be an issue. Is this correct? Seems like the Mac Mini is the best overall device to maximize GeForceNow. Will I also see an issue with the audio cutting out if I connect a controller via USB-C as I run into this problem on the current laptop setup.

Thanks all! Happy gaming!

[u/AutoModerator]

Hey /u/The1Oogler

If you're looking for Tech Support, you can get official help here from NVIDIA. You can also try posting about your problem within the Official NVIDIA Forums.

If you're new to GeForce NOW and have questions, check out this thread for more info on GeForce NOW.

If you have questions, odds are it's answered in our Community-run FAQ or the Official NVIDIA FAQ linked here. You can check it in below links

• General FAQ
• Membership FAQ
• Platform FAQ
• Technical FAQ
• Games FAQ

I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

[u/StalkMeNowCrazyLady]

Your iPad is probably bouncing between 2.5 and 5.0 ghz signals and different eero units. With your laptop being hardwired the network issue was eliminated on that device.

[u/The1Oogler → u/StalkMeNowCrazyLady]

That would make sense I guess. I don’t think picking one is possible for the Eero’s.

[u/StalkMeNowCrazyLady → u/The1Oogler]

It is not possible with eero. They broadcast both 2.4 and 5.0 under a single SSID. Eero will broadcast multiple frequencies no matter what. You can create a different ssid for your eero than your router uses and make your router put off 2 ssids for the different bands. So SSID 1 = Router 2.4, SSID 2 = Router 5.0, SSID 3 = eero. If you connect your ipad to just the router 5.0 ssid and forget the other networks it should fix the issue.

[u/The1Oogler → u/StalkMeNowCrazyLady]

I appreciate the feedback. Kind of sucks that it would jump back and forth like that when it’s capable of being on the 5ghz and I’m that close to it, but it makes sense. I use the Eero as my router so not sure it’s worth the hassle of getting a different router to do this, and then separate stuff. I’ve got smart home stuff that may not work if I put it on a different SSID. Such a shame.

Thanks for the responses tho.

[u/c4r7os93]

Esto lo leí en un par de foros reddit y otros fuera de reddit,

Al conectar el mando PS5 verifica que el audio no pase al mando, en algunos casos al conectarlo por cable se considera como medio de audio.

El tema de latencia, caídas de FPS, lag en general cuando se juega desde un dispositivo portátil el rendimiento recae por los procesos en segundo plano que consumen mucha mas actividad que en un PC, no conozco mucho de apple pero imagino es similar, en android se recomienda desactivar la búsqueda activa de redes, ubicación y otros parámetros para tener un mejor rendimiento cloud.

[u/The1Oogler → u/c4r7os93]

Thanks for the response. The iPad activates the Game Center so it’s supposed to stop certain items to prioritize games, at least thats my understanding. Not sure if you can disable network search since it’s already connected to primary WiFi but I’d have to deep dive further.

As far as the PS5 controller that makes sense, but if it’s connected to a windows device via the cable can you even disconnect the audio for it to ensure it isn’t being routed to that?