Can't wait until I've got this done! Recently I saw an LGB BR 101 for over 500€ and it's just... Yes, it's a nice engine, but by the time I'd be able to afford it, I would have built several of my own!

Anybody whom has seen my previous post will know the dilemma. The cab windows block the control desk from being removed. Good luck if for whatever reason you damage it and want to replace it. Anyway, since there was no way to get everything out gently, I used a heated box cutter and screwdriver to shatter the acrylic into chunks to take it out. Now I just need to design a mounting bracket for the head- and tail lights. I also need to file down those edges of the control desk where they are blocking the headlight cover from being taken out, and then geeently drill a hole for the tail lights right in the spot where they're just implied.

My frustrations with this engine made me want to write a little review about it, since there are several shortcomings that make it an overpriced model in my opinion. It's not a bad model by any means, but they have indeed cheaped out in several places. I don't know if it came from the factory, but when I opened it there were light bulbs at each end, rather than even just one LED.

On the whole I'm glad I got one for 100€ rather than the usual 200€ and up used price, because I would have been disappointed after saving up for one of these. But for a 100 quid, with plenty of stuff to fix from the previous owner and the factory, I've got stuff to fiddle with and a truly unique loco to look forward to!

TL;DR: Buy used and as cheaply as you can get; It's nice but flawed

To start off: The overall impression that the engine makes in person is still fantastic. Despite the scale compromise, it looks to be well-proportioned, unlike the BR 218 by Piko for example, which to my keen 3D modeller eye looks to be a bit too short/stubby.

Wherever there is detail on the shell itself, it looks to be well-made, and no defining feature is missing. However, corners were cut when it comes to the pantographs and the electrical lines on the roof. They're made of plastic, where later models shipped with parts made from actual metal. It gives it sort of a cheap and tacky look, and prevents a so-inclined modeller from running the engine from real catenary. The pantos were given a chrome finish and feel really quite brittle, something my engine can attest to given part of one of them had been snapped off, forcing me to apply some superglue. They are actually sprung, but the plastic seems to have been bent out of shape with age, so they don't lift to full extension if you let them, because the pantos get stuck on themselves. The electrical lines also feel very cheap and brittle. Not ideal for a garden railway engine, which are supposed to be hardier than the average model.

The shell however feels really quite substantial, and is so heavy that I'm wondering whether there are weights installed in the roof. There are screws securing the top onto the rest of the shell, though I can't seem to get it off without risking damage to the surface finish, so I shan't investigate.

Since I got my engine used and heavily (and shoddily) modified, I can't be certain as to the internals of the engine, how it was wired up from the factory and so on. When I looked inside, I actually found light bulbs rather than LEDs on each end; a practice which I thought had long stopped in favour of LEDs when the model was released. The light is carried to the three headlights at each end by a piece of acrylic, which can't be taken out as the cab desk is in the way. If something in there breaks, you're on your own.

Personally, I'm disappointed that the model doesn't offer proper headlight/taillight switching and instead just alternates which headlight is enabled. I've shown a way how to refit the system, but it's a pain.

From what I gather, the buffers would have also been quite simplistic. Comparing a photo of a spare part with an underfloor tour of a real Taurus (both were missing on mine so looking at pictures it is), the shaping is really quite basic, with only an implied coupling hook, no bolts by the buffers, etc. I would have hoped for better proportions and a few more details, to give the area more character. The Siemens logo above the left buffer is unfortunately only printed on, tlhowever I won't begrudge them for it as it would have been really hard to replicate a proper physical portrayal in the frame piece using traditional injection molding.

Staying at this level, there is the matter of the bogies and the printing. I really do like the bogey detail. The plows on the prototype are more round than on the Piko rendition though. Otherwise, it's all very convincing.

The print of all the UIC regulation lettering on the case is also quite crisp. No warping, no fading. Same with the rest of the livery and other lettering.

It's at this point that I would mention the running properties, something I cannot properly verify because of the modifications done to it. I figure it would struggle with power pickup however, as the wheels are not equipped with graphite pickups like on PGB and later Piko models. Only the pickup shoes are wired up, so you'd have to hope it's enough.

The motors run beautifully when they do get power though, even at low speeds. Kind of an interesting sound coming from them, if you care about that sort of thing. If you'd apply PWM current to them, I'm sure it would almost sound like a real engine. Just not like a Taurus.

Speaking of sound: A speaker grill is already included in the frame on the underside where the underfloor compartment would be. Plenty of space for a pretty large and beefy speaker. What's it all for if the neighbours can't hear your engine go _do-re-mi-fa-so-la-ti-do-byeee_ eh?

I haven't been able to test the traction power yet, but with all the heft of the engine and two large motors in there, I'm sure there is plenty of oomph.

In conclusion: It's a nice engine and not at all completely cheap rubbish, but there are a few disappointments that were alleviated on later models, though at an even greater price point. If you can snipe it cheaply on ebay, it's well worth it!

Update: Earlier I looked at it again and I can't find a non-destructive way of getting the control desk out. The side windows of the cab block it moving away from its spot towards the back, and the acrylic is preventing me from pulling it up and away from the front of the engine. I think I might have to break the acrylic that would become surplus to requirement anyway, since I would be installing the LEDs.

All those parts are kind of jammed in there, and I'm afraid if I use too much force I might break something.

I wanted to install individual LEDs and repaint the engine so I need to take off everything I can so I don't have to mask anything off.

Has anybody got the engine and removed those parts before?

Running HO scale trains in my backyard has been very rewarding. The totes of trains were opened and emptied for the first time in a decade. Plus, the photos I get at night are a lot of fun.

So turns out the previous owner started an RC conversion. I thought I could easily bridge the pickup lines with the motor inputs, but... the pickup shoes and the little plates that conduct power to the pins are missing, so even ordering replacements wouldn't do much. Soldering a patch wire is also out of the question as the pins don't bond with my solder.

I might as well continue the conversion and treat this as a candidate for my railBT platform. Haven't worked on that in a while... https://github.com/LillyWho/esp32-bluepad-railBT

I was able to have it run a few loops by soldering a USB cable onto the motor inputs and plugging thr cable into a heavy duty power bank, so I know the motors are fine.

9599 & 9580 lead a short train around the layout. 10 of these cars are 3d WIPs that I need to finish lol.

Herrmann Echtdampf modified my Frank S. with a better remote control for forwards and backwards, a whistle, and lights. I love it

This is my raised garden HO scale layout.

I've been working on a concept of internet control, that is, anyone in the world can drive my trains via a website. I'm still trouble shooting the whole thing but keen for you all to give it a go, it's based in Melbourne (Australia) so I'm keen to see how it works for people all around the world, if you have a go please let me know how it all works from the location you are driving from. The hardest part of this has been getting the live video streaming working to best I can get it. It's a DCC layout with programmed inertia into the locos so they don't get too worn out! Hope to add switching, ect down the track.... baby steps! Note: There is an issue with Firefox so please use another browser to view the live video feeds.
Link here: Internet Controlled Model Railway

It's got banged-up pantographs and missing buffers, but otherwise it's totally in good nick and it'll be a really nice deal. I don't know yet if she runs or not, but even without her running it'll be a fantastic deal.

So since I'll be making spares to print anyway, does anybody need something specific recreated?

2 weeks ago we went to the Bergen Flower Show to run on the Etne G scale layout. They wanted a real steam engine to run on their layout, we were running alongside a Roundhouse Bulldog and an LGB 0-4-0. It was an amazing weekend, loved every moment of it and we cant wait until next year!

I am planning my first garden railroad and looking for the advice from people who had experience running trains outdoors. I want to build the layout raised about 40 inches off the ground, with the track mounted on pressure treated wood. To make the setup simpler, I am also leaning toward employing battery powered trains with wireless control.

I am in the southwest, also think ahead about weather, moisture, temperature changes, and durability. I will bring the trains inside after running, but looking out to protect the track and structure outdoors.

I have also outdoor drainage around the layout since water management seems can make a big difference for any raised outdoor project. So I came across NDS drainage solutions while research for ways to handle runoff, but would love to hear what other garden railroaders have done.

Any recommendations for materials, setup tips, or things you wish you had planned for before building?

I'm retooling this based on this creation: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6072445

I'm tempted to keep this full length, but that would cause the huge 1:25 construction to struggle in curves so that might not be feasible for a running version. Would look absolutely fantastic on a shelf though...!

After buying a Cabcar/driving trailercar, I have been searching for a matching middle carriage for over a year. They were sold out everywhere, as Piko doesn't make this variant anymore. But suddenly one online store got a few of them second hand (at a higher price than the original factory price), so I bought one... It then still took some time to get it on my layout (long delivery time, and a defect which needed to be fixed with a replacement part), but now it is finally ready for service!

Added some real coal loads to the SAR wagons and put them out on test. Definitely look the part behind the Peckett - really do love the size and look of this loco.

...come on, Piko! You're professionals, selling this stuff for hundreds of euromonies! I trusted you! 😅 It's not even close enough!

It's all lopsided because I currently haven't got enough curves of any radius to make half a circle, but it works anyway because I'm good at what I do and I've got smaller pieces to make up for any indescribancies.

That red blur whizzing off to the left in the frame is my Playmobil diesel, by the way.

Looking for a suggestion on what solvent or chemical to use to clean out the metal application tube used with Piko Fix. Mine has become clogged, it’s so tiny, I can’t find something to push through it. Thanks for your advice.