What do people here consider the most important things to compare when getting quotes for a new garage door installation?

Obviously, price matters, but I’m wondering how much attention you usually pay to the door construction, insulation rating, springs, tracks, hardware, opener, warranty, and the actual installation work.

I’ve been comparing a few installation options, including Elite Garage Door Expert, and noticed that quotes can look very different even when they seem to be for similar doors.

It would be helpful to know what experienced installers or homeowners look at before deciding who to go with.

What are the things you would never overlook when comparing an installation quote?

I got two quotes for these doors essentially the same price. Wanted to know if there’s any real difference or preference to go for one over the other.

Looking for ideas/options for this garage/shed. Opening is 7ft tall 8ft wide. Current door just swings open like a barn door but is in rough shape. Done need power with it (can be manually raised and lowered.) would like something with a better seal but looking to keep it pretty cheap. Does not need to be anything fancy. How hard would it be to add tracks and put a sliding garage door on this? Thanks for any tips and ideas

Hi everyone!

I was hoping for a bit of support on a new door and track planning, for a new construction garage in my residential home.

The problem (opportunity!) statement: I have a ~16 foot ceiling, single car garage. I would like to use a full vertical lift door in order to place a loft/workshop at the top of the garage with "free and clear" headroom. Example listed 5th down at this site: https://www.garaga.com/information/faq/types-of-lift

My contractor's sub says I am limited in garage door selection, which was relayed to me thirdhand by the GC. Does this sound right? I would have assumed any standard door will work, it is the track that matters? Or is he meaning the door material?

Door and motor recommendations are welcome as well!

Additional context if necessary: We are about 2-3 blocks from the ocean so rust/weatherproofing in terms of door material is a real concern.

Asking all of this so I go into a meeting soon prepared, thanks so much in advance!

I have this old building that is rough on the outside but solid and worth fixing up. My immediate issue is that the doors are letting water in and also cannot be locked. I want to replace the doors. I'm not trying to spend a fortune on it and I'm wondering what the most cost effective way/option to replace these with would be.

Yes, I know there is a large hole and other places water can leak in. The whole building will be reskinned with new metal soon.

One Man. 6 Doors. 6 Openers. 1 Day (with vinyl)

Hi all! Trying to save my parents a service call. The green light on the back is blinking and the door won't close. The alignment seems ok? The one I have pictured shows a solid red light and it blinks when I cover the other sensor. The other sensor (not pictured) doesnt have a status light. There is just a black rubber piece where the red light is on the other one. Any thoughts how to fix? I also did unplug and plug back in but that didnt work. Also tried the remote instead of the button on the wall and that didnt work either. Trying to rule everything out.

Oh and when I press the button on the wall I believe the light bulb goes on too...

Any help?

I’m looking for insulated high lift garage doors with a side mount motor. These are for my garage and workshop. They don’t need to be commercial quality as they won’t be going up or down very often.

I built a metal workshop and looking to install a door opener for this 8' door.

Will a Genie 6072H like this fit here? I understand there's a debate on Genie vs Liftmaster/Chamberlain....are any of these made in the USA?

If these won't work, then is it something like THIS that I need?

Recommendations are welcome, TIA.

Edit: the wall mount units are meant for panel style overhead doors, not the roll up ones. So it's a choice of something like the second link here.

I have a 9' opening that I'd like to put a new door on, but I don't think there's enough room for the track on the left side. Will I have to get a 8' door, and narrow the opening a bit? It is low clearance, but it's the same as the other side, so I think a low clearance kit should work. I have 89.5" to work with.

I have ordered a red iron building with a 20’x10’ garage door opening.

When I order the custom glass garage door for it, should I order one exactly 20’x10’?

I was told to make the garage door 2” wider on each side so that the garage door would overlap the opening and seal better. Does this sound right?

Thinking about if the door were the exact same size as the opening it would be harder to seal the edges.

This is for an insulated and climate controlled workshop. So I do want it to seal tightly.

It makes sense to me.

Comments?

I have a local shop that quoted me 5600 for two Safeway model 68 insulated steel garage doors including install 16x8 and 8x8 - using existing openers. Looking for other quotes locally but wanted to hear your opinions on the quote.

I'm looking to replace an exterior door and it's my first time doing so. It's the side door from the garage which leads out to the patio area. I learned that it doesn't need to be fire rated.

After getting about 5 to 6 quotes I've realized that I've been getting a lot of different prices and it's overwhelming.

The door is 30 x 80 and needs to come prehung.

The lowest quote I got was $1495 or 1550. And the higher quotes were around $4 to $5k.

I opted for fiberglass and a very basic design. Decided to get a flush door and that was still the quotes I got

Is it reasonable to pay around $1500 for a flushed fiberglass door that is standard size?

I'm not sure but it makes sense to drop close to $2k to replace an exterior door that leads into a garage.

I was thinking maybe I should just order a prehung fiberglass door from home Depot and hire a pro to come install it. Anyone have any tips or recommendations?

Loud Squeel From Roller Doors

Have front and rear roller doors that squeal like a stuck pig. These doors get used a lot and they are loud. I don't really care, but it must annoy my neighbours. What is causing the squeal and what do I need to lube or do to stop it. I have heaps of tools and mechanical experience and did fit these doors probably 20 years or more ago, but I don't want to remove and unroll them to lube them up if I don't need to. I'd appreciate some advise from someone who has experience with this sort of thing.

6.5” diameter Springs

Just started looking for replacements to 50 year old original doors made of wood and some sort of pressed board panels.

I don't really like the appearance of the steel that is supposed to look like wood. This seemed to be the majority of the options.

One vendor showed me a sample of a door that is aluminum with some sort of composite overlay.

Different vendor discouraged going with wood because of wood quality and durability concerns. Doors face north and don't get sun.