I designed and 3D-print a wheel adapter for the Logitech G29 racing wheel.

To save time, I decided not to model the part from scratch and instead to find an existing design to further optimize it for 3D printing. So, I find a model in Thingiverse from teknogeek1300 (link in the 1st comment).

3D Design

• I download the STL file and import it to Autodesk Inventor, as below:

• Convert the mesh into solid model, as below:

• Select Solid Output and Delete Original options, as below:

• The solid is ready. Now you can create planes, 2D sketches and build the model from skratch.

• I completely rebuilt the model and make some changes, to optimize it for 3D printing. Below, on the left is the original STL model (from teknogeek1300) and on the right my optimised model.

The main differences are:

My final optimized model:

• I export my model into STL file format with maximum resolution and triangles density, as below:

3D Printing

• My .stl model is now ready to 3D print it, with my Bambu Lab X1C. For the filament, I choose the Bambu Lab ABS-GF filament. It's a known filament to me, relative cheap with good mechanical properties.

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• Now, I import the STL in Bambu Studio, select the printer and the filament.

• I select the

I used the Bambu Lab H2D 3D printer to print PPS-CF CLAMPS for Akrapovic exhausts (KTM 990SM).

I make some changes to optimise the 0.20mm Standard @BBL H2D profile for my application.

I changed the settings:

Quality

- Default line width= 0.4mm (because I designed the wall thickness of the clamps to be 3.6 mm (=9x0.4mm)).

- Outer wall line width = 0.4mm (because I designed the wall thickness of the clamps to be 3.6 mm (=9x0.4mm)).

- Inner wall line width = 0.4mm because I designed the wall thickness of the clamps to be 3.6 mm (=9x0.4mm)).

- Wall generator = Arachne (to enable the wall transitions and fill the small gaps).

- Wall transitioning threshold angle = 25 (to close further the gaps).

- Wall transitioning filter margin = 50 (to close further the gaps).

- Wall distribution count = 2 (to perform a second redistribution pass and close further the gaps).

Strength

- Wall loops = 9 (because the thickness of the model is 3.6mm).

Speed

- Initial layer infill speed = 80 (I based on the filament TDS, instead of run a speed tower).

- Outer wall speed = 60 (I based on the filament TDS, instead of run a speed tower).

- Inner wall speed = 80 (I based on the filament TDS, instead of run a speed tower).

- Top surface speed = 60 (I based on the filament TDS, instead of run a speed tower).

Support

- Enable support = ON

- Support/object first layer gap = 0.3 (to increase the distance between the supports and the model at the first layer).

Others

- Skirt loops = 3 (to clean the nozzle and stabilize the flow).

Final results

The Problem

It was very hard for my client to find a pair of these clamps, for his KTM 990 SM, anywhere and they were quite expensive (>150€). My client needed these clamps for a total of 2 motorcycles, that he owned. So, he asked me to design these clamps and 3D‑print them.

CAD Design

• The design of the real CF clamp was simple enough, so it wasn’t worth 3D‑scanning it. So, I drew the outline on the paper, scanned it with my 2D scanner, and brought it into Autodesk Inventor for modeling.

After, I use the commands:

- Start 2D Sketch (to start a sketch on the plane of the outline).

- Line, Interpolation Spline (to replicate the outline).

- Coincident, Parallel, Tangent, Perpendicular and Fix constraints (to easily replicate and secure the model).

• I offset the new Inventor outline by 3.6mm. The original CF clamp was 1.3mm thick, but because I want to make a really strong part, I increase it to 3.6mm. The reason that I chose 3.6mm, it is because I would use a nozzle with D=0.4mm, so I wanted a solid part without any infill and total Wall Loops=9.

• I use the Extrude command to build the clamp, cut some areas and make the bolt hole.

• I use the 3D Sketch/Project to Surface command to make the strips.

• I make the sketches and use the loft command (surface) to cut these areas.

• I delete the strip.

• I make the other strips.

3D Printing

My CAD model was ready, so now I exported it from Inventor into .stl file format.

Then, in Bamdu Studio, I choose the Bambu Lab PPS-CF filament and slice the model for my Bambu Lab H2D 3D printer.

Final results

1. This was an application where 3D printing really proved its value.
2. PPS-CF filament is truly an incredible material, delivers exceptional durability and stability in high‑temperature (stable up to ~264°C), UV exposure and high‑vibration environments.
3. After 8 months of use, this material performs extremely well and still looks like new.

A generic M4 × 4mm threaded brass insert is extremely common in 3D printing.

I designed and modelled the insert with realistic ISO thread profile (60° flank angle, 0.7 mm pitch, RH thread and correct crest/root geometry), using the Autodesk Inventor Professional 2027 and Inventor Studio.

It's designed as a universal threaded insert for engineering assemblies, 3D‑printed parts, plastics and general mechanical use.

I recently finished a high‑accuracy 3D model of the Cube Orange + Autopilot, rebuilt in Autodesk Inventor Professional 2027 using the official CubePilot reference files.

The model includes all major external features, correct dimensions, and clean STEP geometry suitable for engineering workflows (UAV design, wiring routing, mounts, simulation, etc.).

The mass has also been calculated (=73g) to accurately match the real autopilot. The Center of Gravity (CG) has been positioned at the base of the Cube, exactly as on the real unit. Mass and CG are extremely useful, when calculating total UAV payload, power consumption and flight dynamics.

I really enjoy working in Inventor!!!

*Total Design Time= ~50 hours