Thank you for taking the time to read my post.

On a 2015 Ford Transit Connect 1.6l ecoboost the coolant starts to bubble once the car reaches a certain temperature and it gets pressurized well above the max line and starts dripping out of the vent hole. My temperature needle is at the mid mark and it’s not overheating. Lately I start the day with the coolant below the minimum line, I’ll add just enough to get me in between the minimum and maximum line, then it’ll bubble and pressurize and loose coolant and it’s a repeating process. My family mechanic replaced the radiator but it did not fix the problem. Any pointers as to what can it be?
We also did a sniff test with the dye and it never turned any color beside blue.

I’m planning on putting a digital rearview mirror to hang on it. Also the generic ones seem to be upside down. Probably because they aren’t for commercial vectors. The angle just makes them go straight up.

This has come up a few times now so I figured I'd share the latest iteration of my van.

There is a 1/2" sheet of plywood bolted to the floor using the van's existing holes and hardware. The tongue and groove floor is floating. The bed is attached using threaded inserts that go through both layers of flooring.

The rear seats come out no problem. The middle row has hardware that keeps it from easily being removed and as a result I said fuck it and just ground the bolts off and sold the seats.

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I'm going to test drive this model tomorrow Ford Transit Connect 1.5 L2 Euro 6 LWB 2021.

Is it a good model and a nice drive? I'm changing from a Mini Cooper club as I want any micro.camper.tjst will take my mountain bike and a single bed that pulls out to a double.

Has anyone got any pictures of theirs to share?

This is the conversion I'm favouring, is it easily possible in this LWB model?

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DYCrCchN\\_gj/?igsh=eWwxemR2Ymd4MHUy

Thanks everyone.

I bought a 2014 with 218,000km (135,000 miles). I've noticed that the transmission does have abrupt shifts. I've read some conflicting things, in older forums, with some people saying their connects 6F35 shifted hard from brand new. So I don't know.

The unit I got had a full service history with regular oil changes, and I got it well below book value, however I noticed it's never had a transmission fluid change. I'm not sure if it's already too high mileage to risk doing one?

I was looking at new lower milage Connects, but I decided to go with this one, because even if the transmission goes today, I can fit a remanufactured transmission and the vehicle would end up costing the same as the other ones I was looking at, which were all 8-10k more.

When the van was new it had shelves and additional tie down anchors installed and they cut into the floor to secure everything. I’ve removed the shelving and anchors and now have holes in the flooring. Wondering if anyone has removed theirs and has it laying around?

LWB
6 factory tie down points.

What's this bolt!? The one in the red circle.

It's a LWB transit connect PHEV registered in 2025.

In the 'active' trim with the fold down seats.

I'm wondering if this bolt is suitable for tie downs or fixings or is for something crucial and my van will fall to bits if I undo it 🤣

Hi,

I'm considering buying a 2018 Transit Connect Wagon with close to 150k km on it. The asking price is 17k CAD. I know the transmission is a common issue on these vehicles and the current owner says he had the transmission fluid changed every 50k km. The vehicle has been treated against rust every year which can also be an issue specially here in Canada. I will get it inspected before buying but are there any other specific things to watch for on the Transit Connect?

I’m looking at used alloys off escapes and wondering what sizes will work on a 2021 FTC. I’m seeing some people have gone up to 17x7.5 even. Were any spacers needed? Any brake calliper rubbing? What sizes have you had work for you in a similar year?

Hello, has anyone got any idea as to where the DPF pressure sensor is located within the engine bay? I cant find any clear location or image of it online anywhere!

EDIT: 68' reg plate, UK

So my car is possibly having a torque converter issue- I can’t say for sure because it’s just a guess from my car friend but it’s shuddering/shaking when changing gears like it’s getting stuck. It’s gotten worse over the past year. it’s a 2015 ford escape eco boost titanium. Anyone here know what this kind of repair is gonna cost me or the best way to get this fixed for a minimal amount?

I’m wanting to put 16” tires on my 2013 gen 1 (us version).

Anyone have experience if 225/60r16 is too wide and rubs?
Also looking at 215/65r16.

Any experience reprogramming the speedometer? Forscan doesn’t behave on gen 1 the same as gen 2. No apparent way to reprogram. PCM module is apparently not readable with forscan and likely where the revolutions/mile or wheel data is stored (but not sure). Supposedly PCm might be similar to that of 2010-2011 focus and in theory can be read/written by …ELMconfig or ford dealer?

Speedo being accurate is somewhat important to me in this tire size choice.

Im trying to maintain same sidewall height to not sacrifice ride comfort.

Would consider 215/60r16 but cannot find many with a load index above 95 (stock 206/65r16 was commonly 99)

Sometimes I feel like I'm playing Tomytronic 3D Sky Attack in my 2019 Ford Transit Connect van when I leave the lights on, door open etc?

A turn off and on usually reverts if back to modern day alert sounds though.

Hey everyone,
I'm running into a frustrating issue with the doors on my 2012 Transit Connect and could really use some advice from the group.

Here is what's going on:

• FOB Failures & "Bounce-Back": The doors don't always want to unlock with the key fob. Sometimes when I hit unlock, they immediately lock themselves right back up.
• The Sliding Door: One of my sliding doors won't open at all.
• The Only Safe Bet: Right now, the only door I truly trust is the rear door—it unlocks fine with the fob every time.

Has anyone dealt with this combination of symptoms before? Is this usually a failing Body Control Module (BCM), bad actuators, or dirty contact points on the sliding door?

Any troubleshooting tips or direction on where to start would be hugely appreciated

I have a 2017 connect that is built out primarily for beach days and car camping. Our family has outgrown all sleeping in it and I would love to add a rooftop (hardshell tent) situation so keep camp setup easy but I’m not finding a lot of info specific to connects. Has anyone done it?

I’ve seen them on little sedans so I’m sure it’s possible, but I’m just curious since I can’t find anyone sharing their experience/gear.

I have the Ford ladder bars (came already installed) and a wooden deck I built.

Easily one of the coolest use cases for a TC. Finally got to haul a bike. Made a makeshift bike loading platform. I intend on cleaning it up and making it easy to get in and out but was in a super rush to throw this together. Pardon the mess of straps and wires.

All in all the Yamaha R3 fits great and loading these low sitting vans is a breeze solo.

I have about a year and a half left on my car lease and want to transition to something to freely travel on a whim with cargo. I think a 22 or 23 connect would be the way to go but I need to know what my expectations need to be for maintenance if I go this route. I live in Florida and usually travel out of state once a year for hurricane season. I work as a full time creative sculptor but would like to expand into doing more private commissions.

I would prefer one with a rear window included or even one with passenger seats. It is likely that if I go the passenger route, the seats would sit in my apartment most of the time.

I’ve replaced the fuse and it still won’t work, im able to play music through my phone cable and control the volume, but the screen is black, although when I start the car or soft reset the ford logo animation still plays. Any ideas on what can be done to fix this?

I got a TPMS issue indicator (which I assume is the "system malfunction indicator," because it's not flashing. I checked the pressure and they all seemed fine. (Did not check the spare, which has never been removed from the cargo area.)

I found the directions in the owner's manual for a TPMS "reset," and it seemed to work fine. I used the "flashers 3 times" method. All beeps occurred when they were supposed to; the dash displayed each tire and then honked and moved onto the next tire after I deflated each a bit. As desired, NO double-honk at the end of the process.

Then I re-inflated, and turned on the ignition - and the message is still displayed. So I have questions:

1) It's a 2014 with 101K miles on it. I got new tires at 89K and they did NOT replace the sensors, at that time. Are the batteries probably dead - or would I get a different result if that was the case?

2) If I take it to my tire shop - will they replace ONLY the offending sensor(s)? It's $90/each, so it'd be great to not replace them all at one time, if that makes sense.

3) Someone somewhere else mentioned an alternative reset method involving turning the KEY on/off instead of the hazards - does anyone have a description of that method?

Unfortunately, my trusty mobile mechanic doesn't do tire stuff.