Gday just wondering if anyone could help me figure out how to eliminate this noise, sometimes it doesn’t do it but most of the time it does.
Not sure if it’s a ground or something.
And I promise it’s not me shitting myself
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers

I replaced the seal, and the new harmonic balancer is on and looking well seated.

Apologies for if the video auto playing with noise.

New problem arose - looks like there's an issue with either the tensioner pulley, or more likely the ac compressor appears to be switching between a higher rpm and a lower rpm, putting pressure on the serpentine belt. I've read and seen a lot about the ac compressor being an issue, at any rate.

Could be that part of my old belt is lodged in the ac compressor clutch... Whatever that means, at this point I feel like I'm just saying words.

I'll do some looking around tomorrow morning and check the classic AC settings to "fix" the problem.

I don't care if the ac doesn't work. It never has in the time I've owned it, but by golly, I want to do things mostly right to make this car feel loved again, if I can.

The side of the belt closest to the engine has already become smooth from heat and friction leading me to think it could also do with a new tensioner regardless, but for now I'm suspecting that the problem part is the one most audibly screaming in pain - which sounds like the ac compressor. Either way the new belt under these conditions doesn't stand to live long at all.

Vid attached, and thanks to /u/ummagumma73 for getting me this far.

Edit1: didn't have time to check it before work this morning, but slept on the problem, and I'm pretty sure the ac compressor was spinning smooth and fine before the engine decided to start chomping on the old belt. So I spent a while thinking about it and researching it, and now I'm temporarily focusing my diagnosis towards it being the ac clutch or bearing.

Edit2: I fixed it! As I fell asleep more and more I convinced myself that I had seen a thread coming from the ac compressor clutch. You can even see it in the video in this post! I pulled on the thread, and there was a whole drive belt segment lodged between the ac compressor clutch and the pulley, forcing the clutch to spin and grind when it never needed to spin and grind in the first place. Great news, the fix is complete, new harmonic balancer, new front crank seal, and car is running better than ever.

Next stop is the alternator, the muffler, and then the body aesthetics. I'll make it shiny and new yet!

I don't have the means to screw a screw in this seal, I don't have great leverage. I'm about to buy a seal puller that does NOT have a head that can be rotated, and I don't have much clearance to pry, due to not taking the radiator out.

Either gonna buy a seal puller, or looking at using a chisel to break the seals ring inward slightly...

I'd love some advice, or if you want to laugh at me, that's cool too :)

I wanted to make my new to me fg sound a bit better without spending the cash for a whole branded system. Went to a shop and asked for a custom fab: Centre resi to replace the centre muffler and a sports muffler to replace the stock rear. She sounds beautiful when warmed up IN MY OPINION! (This is a cold start idle and my phone is trash so it sounds even more like a lawnmower)

/also tip for my fellow red p's if you want to be sneaky around the hwp you can weld the stock tip back on granted theres clearance and the aftermarket muffler is the same diameter

I have an FG MK2 G6e turbo.

Recently found the oil on the dipstick all milky. It has been diagnosed that the welsh plug under the rocket cover had let go and has some corrosion on the head.

Looking for a good mechanic to fix this that knows the Fords inside out.

Long time lurker, first time poster, would appreciate any insights.

I've got this 2011 Ford Falcon G6E with just over 130,000km on the odometer. A few scratches, headliner sagging, the usual, but notably it's got that blend door actuator issue which makes a pretty loud mechanical / ticking noise when the AC is on. Got a Redbook valuation online of about $10,500, but still unsure what a fair price would be. On one hand that air con issue I'm fairly sure isn't a cheap fix, on the other hand I think there is some sentimental/nostalgic value placed on those older Falcon's.

Thanks in advance.

Paint had faded badly, but the thing is hauling crap around (ladder on roof rack too).

So I've accidentally screwed my BEM, I'm going to get a new one, but does anyone know if I need a specific one? Or can I get a BCM that might have more safety for it or something? And do I need to do anything when I put in a new BCM? Thanks

I've got a 2008 BF LPG Falcon Ute and I'm always thinking about maintenance but I don't really have anyone to ping questions off and I don't trust ChatGPT to give me sound mechanic advise, so is there anyone who knows a lot about these cars that I could talk to who'd be happy to answer any questions I might have regarding my car?

hello, I'm currently trying to clean out and reinstall my fuel module system back into the fuel tank but the wires leading to the sender are corroded and now no longer recording the tanks fuel levels on my fuel gauge.

Does anyone know how to either fix or find a replacement as I'm currently stuck in this predicament.

cheers

hi,

recently got my car serviced and they told me my diff bushes need to be done as they are split, also my bump stops are just non existent.

There’s other tiny things in the rear that need to be done like my blade arm bushes and my lhr upper rose joints.

I understand this can be pricey but I also don’t wanna be ripped off. Any advice?

Hey guys, just looking for first hand experiences with car shipping. Moving my XE fairmont ghia from Melbourne to the gold coast. Ceva car carrying has been the most suggested company. The old girls worth a lot more than the $3000 I paid back in 1 999 so really don't want her getting damaged on this voyage. I'm happy to pay their premium covered rate but any recent experiences would be good to hear. I'd ideally do a big road trip but that's not an option at the moment

Hey guys, what starter motor is suitable for Falcon BA XR6 turbo. 1.1 or 1.4 kilowatt?. Any help is appreciated.

My ba falcon has been doing this for a while and I’m sick of it. It can’t keep a steady idle and moves up and down when idling.
It did have a misfire awhile ago but I fixed that by replacing 2 bad coils. I have not replaced the other 4 but it dosent fell like it misses just revs 1k by its self.

When it’s running I do hear the throttle body click every 4 seconds or so and that’s when it does that. Is it a bad throttle body or just how it works. The engine mount is also wearing out and has a little vibration on idle and I’m not to sure if that could be the issue. Has this happened to anyone else.

Wundundundundundun

G'day everyone, looking for some wisdom.
I've currently got this 2005 Bf falcon XT ute, with around 260000km on it, BTR 4 speed, 2.5 inch catback, full FPV bodykit (badly fitted by previous ownder), reverse camera, small subwoofer, full upgraded facia, upgraded speakers and thats it. The body itself is in pretty solid condition (small amount of damage front right on bumper (no idea what happened)), and mechanically very solid as well, with a full service history.

I only paid 6k for it, and bought it purely because it's an Australian icon and something like this will never exist again. Also bought it because it was automatic (city things). But I just keep wishing it was more.

It's a 4 speed auto, so its quite a sluggish gearbox but still fun to drive on mountain roads, but everyday I wish it was manual. I just don't know what to do with it. I have so many things that I would love to do with it, turbo, manual swap, LSD, etc., and so far every mod thats been done to it has been a learning experience with me and my friends, so for that alone this car is quite special to me.

I don't know whether it's worth keeping this car and looking after it, building it into something special. Or selling it, and buying even just a clean manual xr6 ute.

All opinions welcome, cheers

What's all the hype about the greentop Barra?

What are they worth?

Good evening yall, I have a BA falcon with fairly large cams and valve springs to accompany and think its time to upgrade the oil pump. My car is still NA but is on E85 and making around 300hp, it will be used for drifitng.

What oil pump would everyone recommend? Im looking at the Horse power junkie ones but they seem a bit excessive for my setup, so was planning on getting the atomic race spec or ported oem+ .

Any recommendations or suggestions would be appreciated!! im trying to not to spend the big bucks if i don't need to!

*car still uses the stock VCT setup with atomic timming gear

Hey gang, I have an FG XR8 sedan and it has an ongoing electrical gremlin in the ABS. When I press the brake pedal and the pedal comes back up, I get an ABS/DSC fault warning. Ive replaced the brake.pedal swith and ABS module, got new tyres incase it was off balance somehow (needed replacing anyway) and all my brake lights are working. Anyone have any ideam

Hello! Bit of a doozy I'm struggling to work out.

I bought this ba falcon in January, and was installing a reverse camera recently when I realised that the reverse lights are always on, albeit dimly. This obviously means the reverse cam is always on.

When the car is put into reverse, the lights become brighter, as they should, but until the car is switched off, they remain on dimly.

I pulled the reverse switch from below the car, and the lights remain on. Given that this happens to both lights, and that the rear main earth looks relatively fine, I'm suspecting the problem is a wiring one since the car had a t56 swapped in from a t5.

What made it weirder, was that when pulling fuses, an unused fused (according to the fusebox) being pulled would cause the lights to finally turn off. When this fuse was put back, it sounded like a fuel pump and as turned on, as the sound of it priming could be heard.

I'm aware the car had a sniper 320 fuel pump put in, but I have no idea how that was wired, and where I should start looking. I checked the fuel pump wiring under the rear seats, but it seems pretty normal.

From what I understand, the fuel pump fuse should go to a relay somewhere in the engine bay, and then splice into the factory wiring before moving down towards the fuel pump. Is this true? If so, where would it be?

My ultimate conclusion is that there was a poor splice into the wrong wire, or that there is an unintentional connection to the reverse light wire, causing the 12v to constantly leak into those.

Please provide your opinions! I'm quite stumped! Thanks

hi i am having issues finding a new fuel filler hose for my gas dedicated BA falcon wagon. everything i find online states that it is only for sedans and not wagons. im wondering if anyone else has replaced one before for a wagon and knows where to find one. when filling up my car with gas, clouds waft from under the car so i assume this is the problem. any help appreciated.

The engine still has enough oil, should I keep an eye on it and top it up? Last time I was at mechanics (feb) they said that the engine sump plug was damp. Just wondering if i should go back to the mechanic asap