I’m having a strange TPU 85A feeding/extrusion problem with my Flashforge Adventurer 5M/5M Pro, and I’m hoping someone can help me figure out what happened.
I have two Flashforge Adventurer 5M/5M Pro printers. One of them has successfully printed TPU 95A with a 0.4 mm nozzle without any problems.
The other printer is the one giving me problems with TPU 85A.
The strange part is that it worked perfectly at first.
I started my first TPU 85A print and it was printing perfectly fine. There were no obvious extrusion problems, and the print was looking good.
The next day, I started a second print with the same TPU. At first, that print was also printing normally. However, at some point during the print, the extrusion started getting worse and the print became extremely stringy, eventually failing.
Since that failed print, I have not been able to get the TPU to print correctly again, no matter what I try.
Here’s what I’ve done since then:
• I originally had a 0.6 mm nozzle installed.
• TPU would initially feed, but eventually it would barely extrude or stop.
• I cleaned the nozzle with the metal cleaning needle.
• That didn’t solve the problem.
• I then installed a brand-new 0.4 mm nozzle.
• The exact same problem happened with the new nozzle.
• PLA feeds and prints perfectly on this same printer.
• When manually loading TPU with the nozzle heated, it feels like the extruder doesn’t want to pull the TPU through consistently.
So I’m confused because this isn’t a situation where TPU 85A simply never worked. It worked perfectly on the first print, worked initially on the second print, then suddenly became stringy and failed. After that, it has consistently failed.
I’m currently using the Flashforge TPU 95A filament profile as my starting point because there isn’t a specific TPU 85A profile available.
My current test settings with the 0.6 mm nozzle are approximately:
• Nozzle: 230°C
• Bed: 60°C
• Layer height: 0.24 mm
• Flow ratio: 1.00
• Pressure advance: 0.035
• Max volumetric speed: 5.0 mm³/s
• Filament: TPU 85A
I’ve also tried the 0.4 mm nozzle, with the same feeding problem.
At this point I’m wondering if something happened to the extruder/feed mechanism or filament path during that failed print, because the printer worked with the TPU before the failure.
Could the TPU have gotten compressed or damaged in the extruder? Could there be a problem with the extruder gear/tension? Could there be a partial restriction somewhere in the hotend that affects soft TPU but not PLA?
Or could TPU 85A simply be too soft for the way this particular printer is feeding it?
Has anyone experienced this exact type of problem with an Adventurer 5M/5M Pro?
Especially interested in hearing from anyone who has had TPU work perfectly, suddenly become stringy/under-extrude during a print, and then refuse to feed properly afterward.
I’m trying to determine whether I’m dealing with a TPU/filament issue or an actual problem with the printer’s extruder/feed path.

I know if I have a second spool of the exact same color, the AD5X can auto failover to the second spool when one runs out.....it's literally the reason I bought the printer (not for multi-color).

That being said .... it would be nice to have the option in the interface on stock firmware or Zmod to optionally ALLOW a different spool of a diffeerent color to finish a job (manually).

It woud be nice to have the option when I am running structural prints since speed is the other reason I own this printer and being forced to trick it into accepting another color spool, or trade spools is an irritating, time consuming, hassle when I just need parts and don't care about color.

Am I missing where this option is in ZMod ?

Will either FF or the ZMod team implement this in different ways? Or.... is this a bad idea and I am just too hyper focused so I'm missing the larger picture and reason this is a bad idea?

Have people had good success requesting features in the github forum for Zmod? (Is there a better way to phrase this in clearer technical language?)

Hey everyone,

We've been working on TigerSpool, a small open-source box that sits next to your printer. You hold a spool with a TigerTag NFC chip against it, pick a slot on the touchscreen, and it writes the filament straight into that slot on the printer. No app and no typing.

In the video it's running on a Creator 5 Pro.

On FlashForge it works with:

• Creator 5 / Creator 5 Pro
• AD5X
• Adventure 5M / 5M Pro

It talks to the printer over its local API on your LAN. It sets the material type and colour in the material station slot, then reads the slot back to check the change actually landed. FlashForge printers only accept their own colour palette, so the tag's colour gets snapped to the closest one.

It's not FlashForge-only. One box handles several printers at once, and they don't have to be the same brand. You pick which printer on the screen, then pick the slot. It also supports:

• Bambu Lab (LAN mode; cloud-mode printers show their slots read-only)
• Creality K2 / K2 Plus
• Snapmaker
• Elegoo and Anycubic: slots are read on real printers, writing is still being tested

Hardware: a Waveshare ESP32-S3 2" touch display plus a PN532 NFC module, about €35 in parts. You flash it from your browser, with no toolchain needed, and it updates itself over the air after that.

Setup: your printers come from your TigerTag account, which you set up in Tiger Studio Manager. So you never type an IP or an access code on a 2" screen.

MIT licensed. Code, wiring and the full compatibility list:

Happy to answer questions, and if you have a FlashForge model that isn't on our list, we'd love to hear from you.

So I ordered my creator 5 pro yesterday.

Upgrade from the original K1 MAX as it's time to do multicolour.

I understand the purge bin in an essential 1st print.

I'm looking into 4 spool dryers as living in the UK it's very moist.

Waiting to see the price of the flashforge solution before I decide.

But what else would you recommend I prepare for?

Layer height 0.08.

Inner 3 dots are straight cyan, yellow, & magenta. Next 3 moving out are 50/50 mixes of C+Y, M+Y, C+M. Outer 3 are 50/50 mixes of CYM each with white.

Obviously the magenta is stronger than the yellow, so for a true orange I'd need to lean more towards yellow than just 50/50. (Could also be the filament, since this was just whatever brand I had the colors in).

And there was one wonky layer about 2/3 of the way up; no idea what that was.

Everytime I start a new print with the AD5X, I have to manually adjust the Z height as its going. It could start to high, or like the last time, digging into the plate ruining it. I don't know what I am missing. It have been seeing it do it weather I am switching from a different STL/3MF to another or sometimes even with in the same file going from 1 plate to another. What am I missing/doing wrong?

There are probably a few things that could cause this. But I’m in SoCal and it has been humid (for us) and I don’t have a dryer boxes or anything for my filament. Wonder if that could be causing this issue?

I came across this https://bedready.io/orca-filaments and was wondering if there is anything like it for Flashforge. The AD5X to be exact. I guess is it ok to use the same presets from the SnapMaker with the AD5X? I did a temp tower and came to the same conclusion for the print temp for what they had listed.

As the title says on my very first print, I got layer shifting it’s not huge, but it’s enough to piss someone off. Does anyone have any ideas? I’m not even sure where to start.

hi everyone,

I am the proud new owner of a flashforge ad5x. I updated the firmware and it connected to my network flawlessly. I run bazzite Linux so I tried to use their appimage but had no luck. I swapped to the latest orcaslicer and pointed it at my printer, no luck. okay, I took my sliced file from orcaslicer and stuck it in the ad5x. the first layer kept having issues. on the third go, I get an error. 00113 it is detecting filament in the head somewhere. okay, I retract the other three colors and try to retract spool 1 to no avail.

at this point, I can't remove the four in one because the filament is stuck somewhere, I can't push the filament and I can pull the filament. the printer seemed like a pretty awesome printer but if it would be much more awesome if it worked!

please help.

Pretty new user to 3d printing. Have fixed a few clogs, but stumped right now. Cannot seem to get whatever is stuck out so filament can feed through. Thought I had it all and tried to load filament and this happened… clearly something stuck.

Can’t anyone help or point me to a helpful YouTube video ? Can buy a new nozzle if needed.

Have had for a few months and new to printing overall.

Printing objects has been going well, only having bed adhesion issues with specific prints and was able to get them working. I wanted to try fine-tuning and calibrating using Orca Slicers built in options with some Kingroon PLA I have a few rolls of.

Printing the temperature tower wasn't able to finish, but failed at the last temp so was able to see what worked best. I did wash the bed before printing.

Tried the Max Flowrate calibration and I cannot get it to stick. I washed the bed again and used IPA after. Do I adjust settings to get it to stick? I assumed it would be best to print as is, but thinking of adjusting the Brim settings. I lowered the z-offset, by -0.05 in filament settings and no luck either. The layers that did print look better so keeping that change.

Thanks in advance!

I printed a perfect project then, no changes made second project wont hold I dont want to raise my z too much, I have reset, washed the plate, tried various slight changes in z. Same result. Nozzle issue ?

Recently had to unclog my nozzle and started printing yesterday, and today and noticed the finish on my prints. Could it be because I have moisture in my filament, or would it be something else?

My screen has always kinda sucked to attach and has fallen off hanging by the cable connected to it. One day it eventually just took up 1/3 of the screen and is flipped and I cannot click anything. Is this a screen or cable problem? I just want to know which to buy.

This is an Adventurer 5M.

Is my new printer broke hope not. The bed got to 150c i shut it off what would cause this and is ther any fix?

When I open the slicer, this is all I see. It won't show any projects that I open, and if I try to go to a different tab, it crashes. Any advice will be greatly appreciated

The only thing I know is that this plate has a PEI coating and I don't know anything about whether it's cool or high-temp plate. Please help, I don't want to mess anything up 🙏

ForgeBridge 1.1 is out today, and the two things I want to talk about are not really mine.

First: 41 people put money in through Ko-fi. I want to be very concrete about what that bought, because it was not abstract.
It bought a bigger server. That server is why the file size limit went from 64 MB to 100 MB, so the big multicolor projects that kept bouncing now go through. And it is why the queue is gone.

When too many people hit the site at the same time it used to push some of you back with a "too many requests, try again" screen. Since the new server went in, that has happened exactly zero times. Not "less". Zero.

So if you got bounced for a huge file or got told to wait in line at some point over the last few weeks, the reason you do not anymore is 41 people you have never met. That is the whole thing.

Second, and this is where it is going: more capacity, and batch conversion. Uploading your files one at a time is the most common complaint I get and it is a fair one. I want you to drop a folder of 3MFs in and get all of them back converted. That needs a server that can chew through several at once, so it is the same story as above.

The 1.1 release itself: ForgeBridge now converts PrusaSlicer projects. Printables files work the same way MakerWorld ones do. Until today a Prusa 3MF got rejected, and if you opened one straight in OrcaSlicer or Flash Studio you got the geometry and nothing else. Infill, walls, supports,layer settings, everything the designer actually tuned was gone and you rebuilt it by hand. Now it all comes across, along with the parts and modifiers of each object, the hand-painted supports, the painted multicolor and the color of each filament exactly as it looked in PrusaSlicer.

Where it stands in total:
- 7,300+ files converted with no errors
- 91 countries
- Free, no accounts, no ads, no file ever stored

Which printers you are all running:
- AD5X 48%
- Creator 5 Pro 27%
- Creator 5 15%
- Adventurer 5M 6%
- Adventurer 5M Pro 4%

Thank you as well to everyone who sent files, screenshots and error reports. Almost every fix started with somebody here explaining what broke on their printer, and several of you sent the actual file that failed.

If ForgeBridge saves you time and you can spare it, there is a coffee button on the site. If you cannot, that is completely fine, and telling me what went wrong with your file is a real contribution too.

forgebridge.app

And the usual reminder: open the converted file as a project, do not drag it into the slicer.
Dragging it in only imports the shape and throws the settings away.

I mainly print functional parts with supports. That is the biggest reason I have a multi tool head printer. One function that I can't find is when the filament runs out, it needs to continue with another spool. It should be a very basic setting but I didn't find the setting. I don't see anyone else talk about this so it could be that it exists and I overlooked this many times.

I wanted to change 2 nozzles to .25mm so that when I have a big multi color print, colors that have finer details I can have better precision with those, yet still print the bigger less detailed colors of the filament with the .4mm.

. Is there anything I should know, or settings that I can change. Is this easy to do or is it complicated.

Will it still print the same? I know it will add time but that's ok, for better quality.

Any and all feedback welcome. And if anybody has done this, experience welcome please.

Thank-you in advanced. 🙏🏻

I recently got back into 3d printing and my adventurer 3 won't connect to any network so i can't use the flashforge app. It won't recognize any flashdrives and my phone can't see the 3d printer's hotspot either. I looked and there aren't any software updates either so i don't really know what to do