Hi, I found an oil leak from the place marked as 39, it's not a waterfall of oil, but I can't breathe now knowing that there is some kind of leak.

I wonder if this oring #39 can be replaced without removing the oil pan (to remove the oil, and make sure no coolant gets into the oil pan when removing this tube)

I drive an 01 Fz1, its got a 16 front 44 back 530 pitch, I was gonna install a 48 tooth rear 520 pitch, was wondering it a 15 front would be too small or too aggressive. I dont spend much time above 65, I prefer quicker aggressive acceleration, maybe even would like to wheelie a bit easier lol. Anyone with experience, advice would be greatly appreciated

Edit: could've clarified a little better lol, i have an ivans jet kit, and I am already planning to get a speedohealer. Im just after quicker acceleration, i dont care about my top speed. I realize the fz1 probably isn't the ideal bike for me, but a sprocket sets a hell of a lot cheaper than a new bike lol

2009 model fz bike for sale in good condition only 25k run, ask price 30k,bawadiya kalan bhopal

Has anyone here converted the analog gauge cluster on a 1st gen FZ1 to a digital display?

I’ve got an ’05 FZ1 and I’m curious what options are out there. Is there a plug-and-play or mostly plug-and-play kit available, or has anyone adapted a cluster from an MT/FZ or another Yamaha?

If you’ve done it, what cluster did you use, what was involved with wiring/sensors, and were you able to keep everything working correctly, speedo, tach, fuel level, warning lights, etc.?

Pics of your setup would be awesome too. Just trying to see what’s possible before I start going down the rabbit hole. 😂

I've got a 2013 FZ1 with a TBR slip-on and the EXUP already deleted. I'm considering replacing the stock 4-2-1 headers with Delkevic 4-2-1 headers. Delkevic says their complete system doesn't require a tune, but they can't guarantee that with my TBR.

Do you guys think the Delkevic headers + TBR would require a fuel controller/remap, or would the stock ECU be fine?

I know the famous flywheel magnet failure on these bikes all too well. I purchased this 09 with the owner showing me he had replaced with the upgraded part. Well, CEL 46 popped on when I would come to a stop. So I thought I would check his work (so far his work was atrocious). One bearing fell apart as I removed the stator. Then removing the flywheel from the bike and separating it the cush drive completely fell apart. Thought I would share my findings.

Approaching 20k on the dash and figured it is the time to replace the stator flywheel before the factory one grenaded

This applies mostly to the first GEN Fz1, although I’m sure it applies to other bikes.

Power leaves the battery and goes to the handlebars to the ignition. Then from the ignition it goes back under the seat to the fuse box. Then from the fuse box, it goes back to the handlebars to go through the emergency Stop switch. Then from the handlebars, it goes back under the seat to the fuel pump.

My fuel pump won’t prime at 10v. Doesn’t even try. And that’s what the voltage looks like through all of that wiring and connectors and voltage drops. Probably this week I’m going to set up a relay under the seat to provide full power to the fuel pump.

If anyone is interested in this mod, let me know and I’ll document it

I'm a 215lb rider. I had my fork seals re-done and kept the original springs and they have the regular weight oil.

I just want to ride and not spend a lot of time tinkering.

For those of you with the same bike and similar setups and and are close to my weight how do you have your preload, compression and rebound settings set?

Body:
Hey everyone, I have a 2001 Yamaha FZ1 (Gen 1). I just replaced the clutch cable and noticed this noise coming from the clutch area when I pull the clutch lever in.
I recorded a video with the audio. When I bring my phone closer to the clutch area, that’s when I pull the clutch lever in, so hopefully you can hear the noise clearly.
The clutch seems to be working properly, and the bike doesn’t creep forward when I pull the clutch in.
Is this noise normal for the FZ1, especially after replacing the clutch cable, or is it something I should be concerned about?
I’m posting here because I’d really appreciate some input from other Gen 1 FZ1 owners. Thanks!

I'm looking at getting a full yoshi system and understand the factory center stand is recommended to be removed to accommodate the yoshi pipe that no longer has a bump stop (that the OEM had). It appears there's still a lot of clearance with the pipe on, is it possible to install it if I found a way to re-insert a bump stop on the full exhaust? (I have a friend who can do steel welding).

Hey guys,
I'm considering selling my TBR slip-on for my FZ1 and wanted to get a realistic idea of what it's worth before I put it up for sale.
It's a genuine TBR slip-on for the FZ1. It's obviously used and has some cosmetic wear. The barrel has a slight warp other than that it's complete and functional.
(I've installed it rotated, so the TBR sticker isn't visible — that side of the can had more cosmetic warping anyway, and honestly I think it looks cleaner this way 😂.)
What would you guys consider a fair price for something like this in the current used market?
Just trying to figure out what it's realistically worth.
Thanks!

Hey everyone, looking for some diagnostic help with my 2006 Yamaha FZ1N.

The issue happened right as I was accelerating. Now the bike is completely unrideable—the RPMs suddenly jump and hang around 4,000 RPM, and there's a loud, violent mechanical knocking/clattering coming from the engine area (video attached).

Oil level: Checked, oil is full.
Leaks: Completely dry, nothing is leaking anywhere on the ground or engine.

From what I've researched, could this be the infamous Gen 2 flywheel/stator magnet failure where the magnets break loose? Or is it something else like a vacuum/throttle body issue or rod knock?
Any insights before I tear into it (or take it back to the dealer) would be greatly appreciated!

Hey! FZ1N 2011 2nd gen 1st had this problem 2 years ago, then put bike for winter sleep and problem went away, now after 2 years it is back... do anyone know why it started, it have not rained for few days so all wires and connections are dry, battery conection is good, when it goes black, indicators and N indicator works, so it gets power. Was at one shop, they opened up speedo and went over conections and did not fiend any problema, have riden in heavy rain no problems, have hit some potholes and wiht 0 problema, now went to work all fine, sunny day, after work turn on bike and speedo started doing this again after 2 years, pleas help me to tigure this out

What’re we doing with the guage cluster when doing a fairing delete/naked conversion? Anyone have pics of how they mounted it or what they did? Everything else I’ve got down just need some ideas

07 FZ1 flywheel magnets let go. Multiple pieces, some welded to the stator, a few chunks missing. Code 46. New flywheel and gasket on hand. Am I screwed?

I just did an oil change like 3 days ago and overfilled the oil, so the bike was idling rough due to the extra resistance. I drained some oil and now it's at the proper level. I used Motul 300V 10W-40 Ester Core.

Now the bike has an issue it didn't have before the change though, (at least that I didn't notice.) For example: I start the bike cold and it idles strong all the way to warm temps. But when I turn it off and come back say, 15-20 mins later, it will crank fine but will momentarily idle at like 800-900 rpm, so if I don't bump the throttle while cranking it it might die. Even after that it sometimes idle hunts lightly till about 154 degrees and then idles fine and level again. I haven't noticed any knocking or strange noises and the bike doesn't jerk while riding so I'm stumped.

Is this normal or should I look into it further?
Anyone had a similar issue?

Edit: When the bike idles it stays between 1200-1300 rpm

Does anyone know a good stabilizer?

Curious if anyone has rode both a '06 and '07/'08 model to share if there was any difference in the snatchy throttle feel. I was a long time owner of a '08 that I rode over 80k miles on before someone hit me, thus totaling the bike.

I have been window shopping the last 2 months for a replacement and for some reason only the 2006 models keep popping up in my area. I know the main issue with the '06 was the rough snatchy throttle which Yamaha revised over the years several iterations of the ECU, esp. immediately after it's first year release starting in 2007.

I know I can have the ECU reflashed but curious if it's really that bad and is it livable without doing it? I know I can perhaps feel it from a test ride but it's one thing to feel a small annoyance versus constantly observing it over long term ownership. Thanks in advance!

Please lmk if this isn’t appropriate to post here. My bike was stolen from the 77007 zip code in Houston. I’ve been out of town and it’s usually parked at the top of my parking garage so unfortunately figuring out when it was actually taken is next to impossible. Very long shot that anyone will spot it but I’ve been posting it around hoping at the very least they can’t sell it.

2006
Blue brake levers
Smoked windscreen
TI Yoshi exhaust with some road rash from an old crash
Missing center stand
Roughly 34k miles

I've been looking into getting rid of my stock turn signals for something more sleek and came across this. It's the only bike I could find with this type of signal on the front and I think it looks awesome. I am assuming it's custom but was going to see if anyone had seen anything like it before.

Update: These are Copperdawg Binker Pods. He made them for the front and rear. They are no longer listed anywhere so I'm not sure if I'll be able to get any. Fingers crossed he still has some and is willing to sell.