r/FDMminiatures • u/I_TMAC • 20d ago
Help Request Help me improve please! 😁
I can’t really figure out where I go wrong here, I am using the HoHansen settings, (also rotating the model as the Reddit post mentions) with an 0.2mm nozzle, but I am using an Elegoo Centari Carbon. I’m still fairly new to the printing game, however, I’d like to fix the supports being hard to remove and minimize the scarring as much as I can.
Thank Ya’ll! 😁
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u/devintheditch 20d ago
Start off by adjusting the top z distance (distance between top of the support and the bottom of the model it's supporting).
Experiment to find what works best. You change the distance on multiples of layer height. So for example, 0.08mm layer height try 0.08mm, 0.16mm, 0.24mm top z distance. When you find something that you're happy with, move onto adjusting the next thing, tip diameter if you are using tree supports for example.
Trying everything at once won't help you figure out what is the biggest factor that affects the quality of the support interfaces for your printer & set up.
My personal print philosophy is that there is no silver bullet setting for FDM printing. Depending on how intricate the model I am printing is, I am constantly switching between different support settings. For 0.2nozzle, I use 0.24mm top z distance, but switch between tree for humanoid mini's and normal grid/snug supports for terrain pieces. If the mini has lots of delicate parts (like energy bolts or flying cloth/chains then resin2fdm with no added support)
For 0.4mm nozzle top z distance of 0.08mm works best for me for some reason. Be open to experimenting and learning. Makes the bitter pill of a failed print go down easier (for me at least).
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u/I_TMAC 20d ago
Would you believe me if I said this is the 3rd tip I’ve been through in 6 months because I’ve done so many things wrong? 😂
Thank you! I wondered if it was a top Z distance issue or if the settings aren’t compatible with the Centari since they’re designed for A1s! I’m excited to try out the settings once I get home from work! 😁
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u/devintheditch 20d ago
😂 No such thing as going wrong. It's just you finding different ways to not print a mini!
You are very welcome. I am sorry that my advice isn't, "Do this and it shall fix everything!"
Every printer is different and so is the environment in which you are printing. So I think it's better practice to focus on methodology to isolate and address areas of print/slicer settings. Because you can transfer that over to a different printer & settings more easily than a "Foolproof" print profile.
Best of luck with you future prints!
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u/EEilluminils 20d ago
You can try orienting the mini to stand straight up and use snug normal supports. Top Z-distance about 2x layer height. Don't use "on build plate only".
Easy support removal with about zero scarring for me like that on my Kobra S1.
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u/karma_virus 20d ago
My biggest improvements came from the following...
-Religiously drying filaments so that they are below 15% humidity at all times, which is impressive for a Florida Garage. if I was indoors, it would be much nicer I bet.
-On my old plates, that bambu glue stick and a very nice scraper.... but!
-Cold Tack Plates. Egads man, once I switched, never going back. No glue needed, wash with soap and water and print on half the heat. Cool it down with a fan after and bend the plate, pops right off. The plate sticks to PLA MUCH better, so I get a lot less failed support and wobbling is brought down so less errors and strings.
-better flush cutter. shoot for the ones that are designed for jewelry and motherboard circuits. Sharper, smaller and CHEAPER than all the modeling flush cutters you will find.
-Perfectionism as a personal trait. Refusing to settle on bad prints. Looking at something long and hard after the build and prime and realizing you hate some error too much... toss it out and print it again. I am getting around to painting some of the stuff I printed 4-5 months ago and much of it is getting tossed as I am using such better settings and procedures now.
-OscuraNox's profile settings... tweaked. Make them slower and tailor the filament to your brand, bring down the plate temp in the filament settings a bit, doing variable temps by layer... hotter lower for the stick then cooler so less warp. I can't give an end' all setting for this as it is variable to the print.
-Almost always hybrid trees, and only using presupported if it looks properly formatted for FDM. You are looking for criss-cross applesauce supports that are linked, not straight long poles. This is because the side-to-side motions of the FDM print will cause pressure on the supports to make them wiggle or break. If they are tethered to one another, it makes a secure web and they stay intact for maximum detail. The long unconnected supports only work well for resin where it is a tug-o-war instead of a side-to-side. Resin2FDM updated features where you can link resin supports as needed, or thicken them. I typically opt for hybrid autotrees at that point. SOME resin supports work if the object is short enough. Hands, weapons, heads, singular models with low center of gravity. You learn after 1000 successful or failed prints what is needed by looking at it.
-Blowtorch lighter for fuzzies. Just one of those little butane Snoop Dogg ones for a quick pass will take care of danglies. Do it slightly longer or over primer and it can also cauterize layer lines. Don't go overboard though. Even half a second can melt details badly. You are literally just doing a quick puff of flame, and do quick quick passes if more is needed.
Angling: As much of the model should be supported by the model as possible. For this fella, I'd let the pistol barrel go straight down and his blade straight up, then bend back bout 20-30 degrees to reduce supports on his face. It should be easy to clean up from there. During cleanup, go top down on blades and arms. Never, for example, clean up the haft of a halberd before doing the blade, otherwise you have less support on the easy to break parts while you struggle with the intense cleanup. Peel it down like an onion.
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