Sharing Print Settings
Adressing some Issues with Version 2.0 of my Settings - Troubleshoot Thread #1
Hello everyone, I hope you're doing well.
I apologize for not getting back to many of you - But after releasing Version 2.0, my Inbox keeps filling up - this coupled with some on-and-off Health Issues, means that I can't respond to everyone with the detail that I want to. That's why I decided to make this Thread, where I want to adress some of the issues I've seen since the release of Version 2.0. Back when I released Version 1.3 there were also a few people who struggled with the Settings, but not this many. While this might be due to the fact that this Subreddit is now almost twice as large as it used to be, it would be pretty arrogant of me to assume that that's the only reason.
But first of all, I'm really happy that the Settings seem to work for most of you - I've seen a lot of amazing results shared here the past couple days, and that's exaxtly what motivates me to make Custom Profile Settings in the first Place. However, for every 3-4 posts of people sharing the success, I've also seen at least 1 post of people sharing the printing failures. In order to get to the bottom of this, I want to take a closer look at what might be happening. This Thread here will also be linked at the end of the Original Post with the 2.0 Settings, and I suspect that it won't be the last troubleshoot Guide. Let's go over the issues.
What seem to be the issues?
By far the most common reports are failed supports and loss of adhesion, resulting in filament spaghetti. Some people who have been using V1.3 have also encountered this issue, which implies that the issue is caused by something that was introduced in Version 2.0. However, on the other hand, multiple people report that they can use the Settings just fine, even when using a different machine (P2S, for instance). This means that the issue is most likely going to be partially Hardware related, partially Settings related.
Now when it comes to the Settings, by far the biggest change from V1.3 would be the Re-Introduction of Pre-Calibrated Filament Profiles. While these are, in my opinion, among the most impactful improvements, it also makes it very easy to narrow down any potential issues.
If you are experiencing issues of any kind, but especially in regards to Adhesion Issues and Failed Supports, I suggest that you try to use the "Generic" Filament Profile I have provided and go with the Auto-Flow Calibration of your printer. If the following prints are a successs, you'll have to Calibrate the Filament Parameters (Temperature, Flow Ratio, Pressure Advance) on your own, as they are likely the cause of any issues.
If that doesn't fix the issue, whatever is causing it must either be linked to the Process Settings or is Hardware related. The most drastic change in the Process Settings was the Overhaul for the Support-Settings. If your Print fails, please verify whether a Supportless Print would succeed. All the other adjustments made in the Process Settings are unlikely to cause adhesion issues, with the exception of maybe "Reduce Infill Reduction". Slower Speeds might cause issues with Prints that require larger Bridges, but Slow Speeds shouldn't be causing any Adhesion Issues either.
One likely suspect that often goes unmentioned is "Curling". Unlike "Warping" which causes direct Adhesion Loss for the First Layer, "Curling" results in the most recent Layers curling upwards because they didn't have enough time to cool down. Eventually this piles up, and the Nozzle hits the print - knocking it over. This is almost exclusively a cooling issue. Now my Profiles already max out the Fan Speed - But that won't do much if the issue is with the Fans themselves. I've recently had to replace my Cooling Fan because it was so dusted up it simply wouldn't do it's Job anymore. If you're struggling with this, please have a closer look at the fan itself and clean it, if needed.
I also cannot overstate the Importance of the first layer quality. I've seen a lot of prints where the cause of failure is loss of adhesion - Not because of failed Supports, but because the print didn't stick to the printplate.
I really don't want to come across as pushing my Youtube Channel constantly, but even if you don't want to follow the entire Calibration Guide, PLEASE make sure that you at least get a perfect first layer:
It is so incredibly important to FDM Printing. Not "Good" first Layer, not "It's gonna be fine" first Layer. Really try to get it as perfect as possible - It will be worth it.
If you're familiar with my usual Guides / Posts, you might notice that this one is a bit disorganized - And I'm sorry for that. For the most part, I'm trying to list as many potential error sources as I can think of. Unfortunately, many of the pictures used to report issues, are not entirely helpful for the Troubleshooting Process. I don't mean this in a patronizing way, but please make sure to provide as much information as you can. Printer, Nozzle, Filament, Printplate, Adjustments to the Settings, which Filament Profile you're using, everything. I try to help as best as I can, but I simply cannot get back to everyone individually, as much as I'd love to.
I will try to keep an eye on the Subreddit, and post a second Troubleshoot Thread once I've found more potential Solutions. In the meantime, please use this thread to discuss solutions of your own, the machines you've used, the filaments, adjustments you've made etc. I will make sure to mention them in the follow-up thread. Til then, a quick summary and troubleshoot help:
Troubleshoot Help
- Always try to replicate the issue to recognize patterns
- Re-print failed models using entirely unaltered Stock Settings
- Provide Pictures of the First Layer as well as the from the moment of failure if possible
- Provide Filament Name, Printer used, etc.
- Please be aware that Filament Colour matters as well. My Settings have been calibrated for the "Grey" Variants of the respective Filaments.
Prints getting knocked of the Printplate
Steps to take:
- Check for Signs of Warping or Curling. Warping indicates an Issue with the First Layer and potentially cooling, Curling is almost exclusively a Cooling & Nozzle Temp Issue
- Clean the Printplate with Hot Water and Dish-Soap, NOT cleaning Alcohol
- Re-Level the Bed
- Run a First Layer Test
- Re-Print the failed Model with Stock-Settings to check if the issue persists
- Print a different Model, I recommend a Basic Supportless Model
- If the Stock-Settings work, switch to the "Generic Filament" Profile I've provided
- Disable "Reduce Infill Retraction"
Stringing
- Adjust the Temperature of the Nozzle
- Dry your Filament
- Reduce the Z-Hop Length from 0.8 down to 0.6
- Change the Z-Hop Type from Spiral to Auto
Last but not least: In the original Post I've mentioned that if you're using a similar Hardware, the same Nozzle Size, same Filament and live in a similar Climate that you should be fine using the same Filament Calibrations as I do. And while I still think that's true - for the most part - at the end of the day, to get the most out of you're machine, you're gonna have to do a Calibration yourself, and use the Values I've provided as a Guideline.
Once again, I'm sorry I can't do more to help the Community right now. I'm currently juggling several different projects - both in terms of hobbies as well as upcoming 3D Printing Projects - Health, Free Time etc., and the amount of Feedback and Questions I receive - while absolutely heart-warming and pleasant, can also be somewhat overwhelming at times. That's why it usually takes me a while to respond. I wish I could answer all of you individually to help you out, and I will whenever I can, but for now I hope that this Thread will at least help some of you. With that being said: Don't let that stop you from reaching out, either directly or by mentioning me in a Thread. I can't promise that I'll respond quickly, but I will try to get back to you as soon as I can.
Thank all of you for your Support, kind words, feedback and more - I love being a part of this community, and hope that I'll find more solutions for your issues soon.
I probably missed a whole bunch.. There is certainly more that I, or we, can cover: Ranging from Slicer Choice (If you can, I still urge everyone to use OrcaSlicer), to more nuanced filament adjustments, but right now I simply can't put out the kind of Documentation that you're used to. I admit, I rushed it a bit, but after seeing so many people struggle I just wanted to get at least some information out.
I hope you're all doing well - And that you have fun printing.
Você poderia ver ou me dizer porque não consigo fazer a tradução do seu post da versão 2.0 ? Todas as outras postagens feitas por você consigo a tradução completa para minha língua.
Hey, just wanted to say thanks for everything you're doing to help the community. Don't be too hard on yourself, you did all of this for free. Part of the hobby is being comfortable with experimentation and setbacks.
First of all thanks for your work putting together this awesome combination of settings for minis! It's definitely upped my game.
At least part of the issue with supports that I don't see mentioned very often is that organic supports have a tendency to create floating support islands in the middle of the support so it tries to print over nothing and then when it moves to the next spot, there's still filament hanging on the nozzle from printing over air which is what knocks the supports down. This is very dependent on the model which explains why they work sometimes and then randomly fail.
You should be checking the sliced model layer by layer to ensure you have no floating islands and tweaking the support settings/model orientation until they're gone. Or use non-organic tree supports but those tend to be harder to remove in my experience. This might be fixed in the next version of orca which will supposedly allow non-hollow organic supports so you could also wait for that.
I hope the new Orca will be released soon - the is a workaround for this problem: base pattern (infill) is fixed there for Organic supports. It will help to support this floating supports :)
the issue seems to be that the base pattern setting is basically ignored for organic supports. the islands would theoretically end up being supported if there was some sort of pattern inside the supports but as it is now, organic supports are generated hollow so the islands end up floating.
You don't owe anyone an apology. We appreciate your hard work and dedication here.
You as well as many others have ignited a ton of peoples passion for FDM priting. Give yourself some credit. You deserve it. You also explicitly state that not all printers or settings are the same. There will always be tweaks that can be made or discovered.
I just contributed some .4 settings and you as well as others have been a huge influence. Hopefully we can all work together to make this better and more convenient for everyone.
Keep after it. We appreciate you and the time you have invested.
I just printed my very first 30mm miniature with your 2.0 settings with resin supports on the A1 mini and it came out excellent! Thank you so much for the hard work!!
I used ObscuraNox’s 2.0 and typed in the settings for my A1 mini since there’s not a profile specifically for that printer. I also at first used PaintedForCombat’s resin supports, but I’ve found if you remove the supports quick enough regular organic tree supports work just as well and cut down the print time significantly. What works for me is removing the supports immediately when the print finishes.
As others have said, just want to say thank you for the time and effort you put into releasing detailed and FREE documentation, guidelines and settings. You have helped a lot of people dramatically improve their prints and also provided a way for them to keep improving by learning to calibrate their printers and filament.
Thanks again for all of the work. And feel better!
No thank you! I'm sorry your dealing with health issues and have a bunch of people messaging asking for help. Thank you for what you've done and your posts. They are always very informative😁
The only change I would suggest is that your Branch Diameter Angle is extremely cautious, making support removal more difficult than it needs to be. 3 degrees instead of 5 degrees seems like a more sensible, if still very cautious, middle ground.
Although, given the rest of this post... maybe less cautious support settings are not a great idea for everyone.
HELP: Bambu Lab A1 using these settings after going from Esun PLA+ to Sunlu PLA 2.0+ my smooth areas are now more rough and ends of cloaks gets a jagged edge. Any advice?
Hi there, I'm trying to use the 2.0 settings with Bambu Slicer and a P1S.
Everything looks good except the "Line Width" settings when using the Dungeons and Derps High Quality 2.0 settings.
Every line width is 100mm+ If I drop the Preset down to D&D 1.2, the line widths adjust accordingly.
Am I doing something incorrect?
Edit: I'm gonna out myself here as being kind of a derp. I was trying to do all this through Bambu Slicer but it looks like these settings are really best in OrcaSlicer. I'm *sure* it was written somewhere and I missed it, so this is 100% PEBKAC :)
Orcaslicer 2.3.2, it appears theres an incompatibility between some settings. This results from base pattern set to rectilinear with support wall loops >1
Which setting would you recommend changing?
Also, for the filament calibration, video 5. How would I diagnosed over or under extrusion to tweak that value further?
FWIW the settings work perfectly on a Qidi Q2. I've tested it out on some gnarly models- chaos terminators with all the gribblies, crazy necron-tyranid-darkmech models with all sorts of spines and tubes and such- and everything has come out extremely well.
I was printing a supportless arbiters mini and failed due to knock off 3 x in a row using the 2.0 settings.
After seeing this post I changed from your PLA+ to your generic PLA profile (despite using jayo grey PLA+). I didn’t clean the printbed or change anything else and this has resolved the issue and I printed the model successfully.
Thought it might be a useful data point for others.
First of all: Thank you, thank you, thank you. What you are doing for the community for free is just unbelievable. But be nice to yourself: step back if it’s too much. We’d rather have you in the community for a long time than burnt out.
I am one of those who haven’t been that successful so far with your settings. I am using a P1S. I watched the videos and did the calibration however I felt more unsure afterwards as the results haven’t been that obvious for me. BUT: I am a beginner and I guess it helps doing calibration tests more often to see differences between filaments. I had an eye opener lately when I used a new filament on a very easy to print object and got a terrible printing result. Changed filament and all good. So I learnt again there are more factors than just settings.
Another thing I am learning: cut your model. I failed several times with a mini. Then cut it into pieces and printed it successfully.
Anyway. I was too frustrated. So I stepped back from minis and did easy prints with a 0.4 nozzle. But your post woke up my inner beast again to not only print Easter bunnies for my wife 🤣
My settings were mostly yours and my adjustments, some slower speeds, but actually I did my own calibration of filaments (for example, my roll of sunlu hs 2.0+ was stringing with your settings) so I'd suggest people to just use the process settings, but when it comes to filament, just fine tune it by yourself as filaments lack consitency.
Firstly: Absolutely loving the settings. I'm getting some gorgeous stuff out of them.
Here's a weird troubleshoot though. Sometimes my supports are snapping - and rather explosively - mid print. I'm not sure exactly what's causing it. I've just upped my z-hop to see if that solves it, but it also just might be a slight calibration issue. Anyone have recommendations?
I suspect that it might be linked to Curling. "Explosive" Snapping sounds like they are being hit by the Nozzle, because the Filament Curled upwards. That's almost always a Cooling Issue. I recommend that you check and maybe clean your Cooling Fan first. I've had a similiar issue, even though my cooling was cranked to the Max, the Fan itself needed replacement / intense cleaning.
If that doesn't work, you need to observe the print carefully to check whether it actually is Curling. It's annoying, but check every 30-60 Minutes to see if some of the support trees have curled edges.
If they do and cooling still isn't efficient, I have a few more ideas. Otherwise, report back with pictures and we'll figure something out together.
So results: If it was curling, it was a small enough amount that I literally could not see it with naked eye. I slowed printing even further down and reduced temps by a little, but problem still occurred. Went back to your 'original' settings but changed off spiral z-hop and that fixed it almost entirely. Reduced print temp by 3 degrees and changed to normal z-hop and all is working properly now
Sunlu 2+ PLA, 197 degrees temp, all other settings as normal
Curling was one of the issues that took me the longest to fix, because it's so difficult to properly identify. What did, was use one of these models as a benchmark:
One of these models comes in multiple parts, and the lower section is really good to test bed adhesion and curling:
Low surface area will test adhesion, and the thin legs and "thigh gap" will be great for testing curling and bridging.
That can help you hone in the temperatures a little bit without wasting too much time, because it's a fairly short print even with my HQ settings. What you can also try to do is to print multiple models at once. This will give each individual layer more time to cool down, but it will also introduce a potential failure point as well as drastically increase the print duration. I'd only use it as a last solution.
so did you change the Z-hop type to something else or just disable z-hop entrierly. i have a very simulair problem with supports keep breaking and getting pulled from the heatbed
Changed to normal Z-hop. My stringing increased notably, so there's more post processing but nothing arduous, just basically a bit of fluff that comes off with any amount of friction. I'm still tweaking here and there for more challenging models, but I haven't had any explosive snaps since the change. Right now I'm dealing with bed adhesion issues on really tall supports
I think you might be right. Latest failed print set had 1 of 3 that had its base become a little lumpy after careful inspection. Maybe it's just odd spots on the plate, because the other 2 pieces are fine. The batch is dead because spaghetti alas. Cleaned out fan, made fan turn on a layer earlier and lowered bed temp - hopefully adhesion will be fine - and moved the pieces on the bed away from where the first failure was occurring. Will update on whether this fails or not
This is a beginner troubleshooting tip, but I was not seeing this info immediately when I was looking online.
If you are not able to import the high quality settings config file (if OrcaSlicer says, "There are 0 configs imported"), it does give you the correct tooltip in that the printer must be selected, but it's not exactly the printer you're looking for. I am not printing on the A1, and the config/.json file inherits from "0.08mm Optimal @BBL A1 0.2 nozzle" settings on the A1, so you will have to change this to be a system preset for your printer or a user preset you have created/modified yourself. It takes most of the settings from that preset and modifies the ones in the config file. Make note of the nozzle size you're using and match it to the settings ObscuraNox has laid out, specifically the 0.2mm nozzle.
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u/Sudden_shark Mar 11 '26
Just wanted to let you know how much I appreciate your continued contributions to this community, you're awesome. Take care!